Roadfood in the Illinois River Valley

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties 
- Local Spots in LaSalle County Illinois  

We're heading down to the Illinois River Valley this week for a little rest and relaxation plus some food and drink. Michigan and Wisconsin are where most Chicagoans go to get away but I'm noticing a small uptick in people spending time and even purchasing weekend homes in the Illinois River Valley region. The IRV is two hours west of Chicago so around the same time it takes to get to those other states. This area is one of the most important geographic and cultural corridors in Illinois, stretching along the Illinois River from the Chicago area down toward the Mississippi River near Grafton. It cuts diagonally through the state and has shaped agriculture, transportation, and industry for centuries. At its core is the Illinois River and the valley surrounding it which is a broad, fertile lowland formed by ancient glacial activity which left behind rich soils and a landscape of bluffs, floodplains, and wetlands. The area is especially known for its dramatic mix of terrain. In northern and central sections, steep limestone bluffs rise above the river, while wide agricultural plains spread out beyond them. This is one reason the region became an early transportation and settlement corridor as it it naturally connects the Great Lakes region to the Mississippi River. One of the most scenic stretches is around Starved Rock State Park, where sandstone canyons, waterfalls, and forested cliffs overlook the river. Nearby towns like Ottawa serve as gateways to outdoor recreation and river tourism. Both Starved Rock and Matthiessen State Parks in LaSalle County are among the best in the state and can make for great daytrips or even a weekend getaway for the outdoors type. I've always been fascinated with river towns so this area has always fascinated me. Today we're headed to five LaSalle County eating spots I've stopped in at when I've been out and about this way - 

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Wedron Office (Wedron)

As mentioned in many previous posts of mine, there’s lots of spots for fried chicken in the Illinois River Valley region. I’ve been to many of them but never got a chance to check out the Wedron Office until last year. It’s in the middle of nowhere (Pop. 140) but it's far from hidden. Found on the outskirts of Ottawa, Illinois the Wedron Office has rustic supper club vibes. It stays packed pretty much all day, every day. Two of it’s big draws are fried chicken with a thinly coated cracker crisp crust as well as a freshly pounded breaded pork tenderloin sandwich which is pictured with a side of locally made “ravs” which is what they call tortellini in these parts. All of that plus a 1/2 order of onion rings and trip to the salad bar (I guess those survived covid after all) made for a blowout meal. Each dish was as perfectly fried as the next. I hope to make it back on a Friday for the fried bluegill special. The BPT is one of the better ones in this area. As far as that fried chicken it’s some of best in LaSalle County making it some of the best in the Midwest or anywhere for that matter. You know that old saying “you pick one thing and you do it well?” Well LaSalle County picked fried chicken and they do it really well. 

Lunch at Wedron Office (click pics to enhance)
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Maddie's Place (Leland)

Next stop takes us to Leland, Illinois (Pop. 951). This tiny farming village in northern LaSalle County, is located about halfway between Ottawa and DeKalb in the flat prairie country of north-central Illinois. It’s the kind of place where grain elevators dominate the skyline, the high school sports teams are a major identity point, and everybody seems to know each other’s name. That’s especially true of Maddie’s Place - an all-purpose small-town tavern where you get burgers, beer, trivia nights, live music, and community events all rolled into one. In towns like Leland, taverns like Maddie’s Place are often the civic center as much as the local village hall is. I had read somewhere that Maddie’s Place makes a great breaded pork tenderloin and I can now pass that knowledge onto my readers. As you might expect in these parts the fry job was fantastic and it wasn’t too thin so there was some real pork flavor to go with a fresh set of toppings and a soft bun to boot. I’m not the biggest tenderloin fan in the same way I don’t love fried chicken sandwiches but this was a BPT I would get again. 

Breaded Pork Tenderloin at Maddie's Place
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Grant Street Grocery (Streator)

Grant Street Grocery is one of those old-school small-town spots that’s half grocery, half deli counter, and a fully local institution. It’s tucked into a modest building on the west side of Streator (Pop. 12300) at 402 W. Grant Street. From the outside it looks frozen in time. People around Streator don't flock here for the grocery side so much as the homemade food coming out of the deli and kitchen. They have a local cult following for the stuffed sandwiches served on Thursdays. It comes up regularly in online reviews and I just so happened to be passing thru on a Thursday so lucky me. It’s basically warm and fresh baked buttery bread slit down the middle and stuffed with salami, ham, mozzarella and other savory fillings. I could taste why it’s a local comfort-food. I also left with some really good freshly baked Hungarian strudels which are a favorite of mine in the wide world of pastries. 

Stuffed Sandwich at Grant Street Grocery
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Smitty's Bar and Grill (Leonore)

Smitty's Bar & Grill in Leonore (Pop. 100) is a classic rural Illinois tavern that people from outside the area would never randomly discover. That said it’s become a legendary stop among road-trippers, bikers, Starved Rock visitors, and breaded pork tenderloin enthusiasts alike. Smitty’s is located deep in farmlands in the crossroads of LaSalle County. You’ll be chugging along and suddenly there’s Smitty’s, packed with people on wing nights and there's often a wait for Friday fish fry. The bar is famous for a few very Midwestern specialties including gigantic breaded pork tenderloin sandwiches, broasted chicken, and some of the best wings in the area which are in my opinion the best item on the menu. The wings are fried to order and sauced up with made on site sauces like the signature “Sweet Heat” which is sweet and spicy. These are very satisfying wings best paired with ice cold beer.  

Chicken Wings at Smitty's Bar and Grill
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The Old Mill Tavern (Sheridan)

Last stop takes us to the town of Sheridan (Pop. 2500) which is home to a handful of bars including The Old Mill Tavern - a small, long-running country bar and grill that’s been a local staple for decades, sitting out in rural LaSalle County near the Fox River. Walking into this bar can feel a bit intimidating due to it's location in the middle of nowhere with the feel of an old-school Midwestern tavern. It feels like old-country style spot with a time capsule vibe including an old wooden bar, plastic tablecloths and memorabilia from previous eras hanging on the walls. The draw here for most regulars seemed to be the slot machines but for us it was the fried chicken which some say is the best in the area - high praise for a place in these parts. Online reviews also mention the catfish but on this day me and the company I kept were craving fried chicken so we got a plate of that which was on special for a price that matched the old school atmosphere. We also got a half basket of onion rings which are the thinly sliced and lightly battered kind. They were good if not a tad too overcooked. The chicken was good but a bit over salted. But as to be expected in these parts it was perfectly fried with a crisp exterior. 

Onion Rings and Fried Chicken at The Old Mill Tavern 
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Previous Posts You Might Like:

The Smashed Crispy Burgers of Central Illinois (2015)
The Illinois Fried Chicken Trail (2021)
Eating BIG in Central Illinois (2024)
Back On The Illinois Burger Trail (2025)

See ya next time @chibbqking

Lao Der

-Grubbing in Chicago  
Lao Food in Irving Park

Chicago's food scene lost another person in it's ever shrinking food media collection as Steve Dolinsky has called it quits at NBC5 Chicago where he spent the last four years after switching over from ABC7 where he reported as 'The Hungry Hound' from 2003 to 2021. During his time as a "food reporter" for both news stations Dolinsky would often shed light on the city's smaller mom and pop operations, often of the international variety, as well as new up and coming businesses ran by younger up and coming chefs. I joined Steve for many a meals and consider him a friend so take my words for what you will but his absence will be missed. Especially by the crowd of Chicagoan's who might not be plugged into social media but do watch the news and like to try new restaurants when they learn of them. Steve taught many Chicagoan's how to dig deep into our world class food scene whether it was a hip and happening place like Siam Thai in the South Loop which was one of his last stories (we ate there together) or a mom and pop operation like today's stop. Lao Der recently became the only Lao restaurant in the city proper when it opened in April. This a place I'm positive Steve would've done a story on and deservedly so as Lao is a cuisine we were lacking in Chicago.

Recently Opened in Irving Park 

Considering that there's a nice sized Lao population in the Midwest it's rather surprising that Lao Der is the city's first true Lao restaurant. We have had pop-ups and ghost kitchens but not a brick and mortar such as this. There's a good number of Lao restaurants in Wisconsin and Minnesota but there's not a ton of them in Illinois. In fact there's only one in the immediate Chicagoland area out in Burbank but Spicy Thai Lao only has a few Lao dishes from a non-pork eating chef. So before Lao Der opened you basically had to drive all the way out to Elgin to get Lao food in the form of 'Sai Kok' or 'Laab Moo Lao'. It took a minute but the "Lao Food Movement" has reached the city proper. The "Lao Food Movement" was popularized by Seng Luangrath, the chef and co-owner of Washington D.C's Thip Khao, she's considered to be the "Godmother of Laotian Cuisine in America" as she was a pioneer in showcasing the flavors of Laos in the U.S. I still remember the first time I had Lao food as a college kid in Madison and then again at Thip Khao in D.C. I've been a big fan since then, so this is pretty exciting getting a Lao restaurant, and LAO SAUSAGE, so close to home.

Lao Sausage aka Sai Oua at Lao Der

Much like Northern Thai cuisine (and Isan too) Lao food is known for its bold and flavorful dishes that often feature a mix of sweet and sour and spicy and salty flavors. Much like Vietnamese cuisine it's known for a strong emphasis on a bounty of fresh herbs. Though considered simpler than it's Southeast Asian counterparts Lao food is often less toned down in terms of spicing. Whenever I go to a Lao restaurant it's a must to start with the Lao Sausage which goes by Sai Kok. Lao food is already underrated as it is so most people out there don't know the deliciousness that a piece of Sai Kok can bring. If you've had Thai sausage in the form of 'Sai Ua' or 'Sai Krok Isan' than you've had something similar but Lao sausage often features turmeric and almost always comes served the same way which is slitted, fried, and served alongside sticky rice and jeow som (sour dipping sauce). Lao sausage is excellent as is - it's herbaceous and often has a bit of funk. It should have heavy hints of lime leaf, galangal, lemongrass, cilantro, and shallots and it's typically less coarsely ground than most other encased meat but it really comes together with Jeow sauce which commonly consists of fresh garlic, chiles, lime juice, sugar, and fish sauce all ground together with a mortar and pestle. The Lao sausage at Lao Der, who's owners come from the hub of Vientiane, is served with 'Jeow Mak Len' which is a roasted tomato based jeow sauce with a thicker texture and it’s fantastic paired with a slice of sausage and some sticky rice. They also serve Esan sausage which are little balls of sausage full of garlic and black pepper flavor served with cabbage and peanuts and is also very good. 

Esan Sausage at Lao Der

I've visited Lao Der twice now and have enjoyed everything I've tried. It's a pretty standard menu as far as the Lao dishes go but they seem to do all the classics really well. The crispy fried Lao Wings further solidified my feelings of Asian fried wings being far better than their American counterparts. Perfectly sized wings (not too big) are tossed in a mix of fish sauce, sugar and tamarind and topped with crispy garlic. These are some of my new favorite wings in town right now. Both times I visited they had a couple specials which on one visit was a spicy Lao style beef jerky which was crisp from a trip to the fryer and pungent from the lemongrass, garlic and chili powder it was rubbed with before it was fried. It also comes served with their delicious roasted tomato based jeow sauce. With summer seemingly near I'm glad to have easy access to Lao style Larb - also spelled laab, laap, larp, and lahb. Larb is traditional minced meat salad that's considered the national dish of Laos. It's known for its bold and botanical flavors and can be made with a variety of proteins including beef, pork, duck and chicken tossed with lime juice, fermented fish sauce, ground rice, and lots of fresh herbs. The 'Lab Gai' at Lao Der will be a go-to of mine in those dog days of summer as it taste even better cold out of the fridge the next day. You can't go wrong with any of these appetizers. 

Lao Wings

Lao Der Jerky

Lab Gai (diced chicken) at Lao Der

I consider Southeast Asia to be one of the worlds great soup regions as every country there has some fantastic noodle soups, including Laos. While Vietnam is the birthplace of Pho it's not the only spot where it's enjoyed. Laos has it's own adapted version due to the close proximity of the two countries. Pho gained popularity in Laos due to an influx of Vietnamese people combined with the fact Vietnam and Laos share cultural influences including food. Lao-style Pho adds sugar and a unique set of toppings including lime juice, chili peppers in oil, fried garlic, and a roasted peanut sauce. I thought the 'Lao Pho Beef' at Lao Der was decent as is but it really improved with the addition of the condiments it came with including the aforementioned peanut sauce. The broth was subtle without the extra stuff but it improved greatly with it. They use a combo of medium rare sliced beef and meatballs neither of which stood out plus they seemed to have forgotten the roasted tomatoes listed with it. 

'Lao Pho Beef' at Lao Der

The Lao style chicken noodle soup is the better pick of the soups. It's listed as 'Khao Piek Sen' on the and described as "homemade rice noodle, onion and cilantro, fried shallots, black pepper, homemade chicken meatball served in flavorful chicken broth" - flavorful is an understatement. That broth is some of the richest I've come across in Chicago. It's clearly home made with the sliced skin on chicken it comes with cooked in it. It tastes like Khao Man Gai in soup form. Khao Man Gai being the Thai version of Hainanese chicken rice (poached chicken served with a rice cooked in the broth). There were two other standouts in this fantastic bowl of soup: the meatballs and the noodles themselves. You could tell the meatballs were homemade from their delicate shape and the noodles are also made in-house which is easily distinguishable thanks to a terrifically chewy texture. This might be the best chicken noodle soup in town but don't wait until you're feeling under the weather to try it. We need more Lao food in Chicago but we may not get it if Lao Der isn’t welcomed with open arms.

Khao Piek Sen at Lao Der

Lao Der
3922 N Elston Ave
Chicago, IL 60618
(872) 241-4879
Website

Taquizas Valdez

-Grubbing in Chicago  
New Aged Mom & Pop Mexican in Irving Park

It's been a hot minute since Chicago had a mom and pop type Mexican restaurant to get excited about but that time has passed with the recent opening of Taquizas Valdez on Irving in Irving Park. 

Recently Opened in Irving Park 

The menu at Taquizas Valdez is a reflection of its owner / chef. Diners can choose between the restaurants signature tacos and tortas as well as mouth watering wings or baskets of French fries loaded up with skirt steak, banana pepper fondue and beans. Ivan Valdez was born in Chicago and grew up in Logan Square where his parents ended up after emigrating to the U.S. from Mexico. Upon entry into his restaurant customers are greeted by a beautiful hand painted mural showcasing his families journey. It takes up an entire wall and includes the flags of both Mexico and the United States as well as nods to his service in the U.S. Marines Corp and fatherhood. Valdez first gained a love for cooking through his mother who he often accompanied in the kitchen as a kid before going on to work professionally in kitchens across the city including the now defunct Quiote in Logan Square. 

Taco El Americano

The taco portion of a Mexican restaurants menu is pretty much the first thing I peep when looking over the menu of a new to me spot. You can get a good idea of what type of cooking they're doing based off the taco options. Too many spots serve up the same uninspired menu with the usual taco suspects - steak, chicken, and "al pastor" which I put in quotes because it's rarely the real thing. But not here where the tacos are unique and creative with options like the El Americano made with skirt steak, muenster cheese, lettuce, tomato, and lime crema on a toasted flour tortilla. Chicago wing enthusiasts should take note of the Taquiza Wings which come in four flavors - spicy red salsa , spicy green salsa, Mexican lemon pepper, or tossed in Valdez’s moms mole sauce made with three different chilies (árbol, mulato, ancho), sesame seeds, and bananas among other things. Each order comes with a refreshing made on site ranch sauce plus pickled vegetables known as ecabeche.

Mexican Lemon Pepper Wings at Taquizas Valdez 

All the tortas at Taquizas Valdez start with fresh baked and heart shaped bread and the Pambazo Valdez might be my favorite Mexican sandwich in town right now. The soft but sturdy bread is dipped into a guajillo chile sauce and toasted before being loaded with a medley of sautéed mushrooms, black beans, crispy fries, lettuce, tomato, onion, avocado, lime crema, queso fresco, salsa macha. It’s an absolute beast of a sandwich despite containing zero meat. A recently added menu item - Mexican corn ribs with guajillo butter and lime cotija mayo - is on my to try list next time because after visiting twice it's safe to say Taquizas Valdez is the best Mexican restaurant to open in a hot minute.  

Pambazo de Hongos at Taquizas Valdez 

Taquizas Valdez
3038 W Irving Park Rd
Chicago, IL 60618
(773) 681-0227
Website

Roadfood in Atlanta

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- Another Quick Trip thru ATL

Atlanta remains a bit of a mystery to me. I've been through there three times now but never for more than one night. All three of my visits to ATL revolved around driving to and from South Florida. Atlanta is basically the halfway point so it's a good spot to stop. That said I've always had trouble navigating the city and it's pain in the ass traffic. On my most recent visit last May I had a whole eating itinerary planned but I had to scrap it due to the crazy traffic which was so bad I decided we would only stay one day instead of two. So I don't really know much about Atlanta except to say it's not for everyone. As far as the food scene in Atlanta I don't know much about that either. It's harder to read than most food scenes and because I've never spent more than a day there it's still a bit of a mystery. That said 've always said there's good food to be found in every metro area including the Metro Atlanta area. 

Atlanta, Georgia
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1911 Biscuits and Burgers

I love a good biscuit but rarely get the chance to have one due to my home base (Chicago) being very north of the Mason Dixon line. So I made it a point to get a good biscuit sandwich while I was in Georgia. A few of the spots I wanted to try were either not open that day or they were too much out of the way. But 1911 Biscuits & burgers in Smyrna looked much better than anything you'll find back home and it was. I'm not sure how it stacks up against the Piedmont Regions best biscuit spots but the biscuit itself was soft and fluffy and just sturdy enough to remain mostly intact while the fried chicken had a nice spice profile to it. The biscuit and gravy wasn't as good due to an off tasting gravy. 

Fried Chicken Biscuit at 1911
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Busy Bee Cafe

If you're a devout regional eater you cant go to Atlanta and not get some fried chicken. The historic Busy Bee Cafe has been on my radar for a long time now as it's one of the city's most iconic restaurants. The restaurant was opened by a self-taught cook, Lucy Jackson, in 1947 on what was at the time called Hunter Street but is now Martin Luther King Drive. MLK himself was a regular during the Civil Rights Movement and today the cafe is popular with locals and tourists and celebrities alike. Busy Bee is known for their southern cooking featuring all the usual suspects but I had to try what some say is the best fried chicken in Atlanta if not the entire south. As of my visit last May it's takeout only so I went ahead and placed my order on our drive in once we were about 25 minutes out. I got a fried chicken dinner with two sides of my choice - Broccoli Cheddar and rice & gravy. Was it the best fried chicken I've ever had? No it wasn't but I've talked before about how fried chicken is pretty good no matter where you get it, as opposed to stuff like bbq and burgers. So it was still very satisfying. 

Fried Chicken at Busy Bee Cafe
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Heirloom Market BBQ

There's lots of bbq options in Atlanta and Heirloom Market BBQ was the most intriguing of them all. From the outside this place looks like your typical southern bbq shack but when you see the menu you realize that it is not. Heirloom is ran by a pair of local chefs with a Korean background. They incorporate both of their heritages into one with menu items like Gochujang beef ribs and the Spicy Korean Pork Sandwich made with smoked, diced and braised spicy pork topped with kimchi slaw. I couldn't resist sandwich which was probably the single thing I was most looking forward to eating in Atlanta and it more than lived up to the hype. This was a top tier sandwich in every regard. The meat had great smoke flavor and was filled with crispy bits mixed with tender chunks and the slaw was top tier. I wish I could've tried a few more things but I had to save stomach space for some other spots.

Spicy Korean Pork Sandwich at Heirloom Market BBQ
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The Original J.R. Crickets

Atlanta's wing scene is considered second to none by some. Every Atlantan has a favorite spot for lemon pepper wings - a flavor created here in Atlanta. J.R. Crickets is one of the most popular wing spots in town. They've been around since 1982 and were a local fixture long before it became a piece of pop culture too when featured on the hit TV show Atlanta on FX. I visited the semi original location in Midtown which is housed in an old IHOP building, it moved into there back in 2013 after the original location burned in a fire. I ordered half lemon pepper dry and half buffalo and thank goodness trey had a bar where I could have a beer or two because my order took what seemed like forever (best to call ahead like everyone else was doing). The wings were small but still pretty good despite that they didn't seem to come fresh from the fryer. I actually prefer a smaller wing to a jumbo as the smaller wings have much better texture to them but I felt like they could've been fresher in terms of how long we waited. Were they the best wings I've ever had? No not by a long shot but they did hit the spot. 

Chicken Wings at J.R. Crickets
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Bibi Persian Eatery

Ponce City Market was one of the country's first food halls back when it first opened back in 2014. The mixed use development is located in a former Sears catalog facility in the Old Fourth Ward neighborhood on the city's eastside. I visited around dinner time and the place was packed. There's more than two dozen food options ranging from small stalls to full fledged restaurants. I was there to check out Bibi Eatery which is a Persian sandwich specialist. Atlanta has a decent sized Persian population as I learned doing research for this trip. Bibi serves up casual takes on popular Persian dishes like Koobideh and Joojeh kebabs and offers them in sandwich form too. The kebab in my Koobideh sandwich was made with a mixture of beef brisket and lamb shoulder and dressed with butter braised tomato, labneh, sumac onions, and pickles in between a piece of rustic bread as described on the menu. My thoughts? More Persian spots should offer sandwiches like these.  

Koobideh Sandwich at Bibi Eatery
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J-Bistro

I was determined to get to the area around Atlanta's famed Buford Highway despite it's out of the way location. The area out by the city's Northeast suburbs is home to a ginormous collection of Korean and other Asian owned restaurants and markets alike. It's only about 15 miles from the city center but it can take alot longer than that with traffic but I went out there anyway only to find the spot I had planned to check out closed due to a building issue. So no Korean grilled tripe this trip. Instead I headed over to this Korean-Chinese restaurant known for their Jjamppong among other things. Even though it was pretty hot outside I wasn't going to pass on a spicy bowl of spicy seafood noodles, with made on site noodles at that. This version had a ton of spice and lots of seafood to boot. Delicious. 

Jjamppong at J Bistro 
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Weekend in Atlanta (2016)

See ya next time @chibbqking

Nine Bar

 -Grubbing in Chicago  
New to the 'Scene'

Chinatown has always been one of my favorite neighborhoods in Chicago. This is going all the way back to when we would make visits with my grandparents. My grandpa was an Italian - American who loved Chinese food and it’s likely that those childhood visits were what propelled my love for both the food and the neighborhood. It’s always been such an interesting place, mysterious in some ways and inviting in others. It’s the only Chinatown in North America that’s still growing with a Chinese population and businesses to go with it. There’s always new spots opening up shop but these days it seems like all of the openings are corporate in some sort of way and they’re usually doing one of a few things - bubble tea, hot pot, or some sort of fried food like chicken or corn dogs. The recently opened Nine Bar, the neighborhoods first cocktail bar, looks to be an exception to this trend.

Newly Opened in Chinatown 

Nine Bar seems to be one of the few local neighborhood openings of late. It’s ran the family behind Moon Palace which has been a neighborhood fixture for over five decades. I didn’t realize it until I walked in but Moon Palace’s dining room has been replaced by the bar, you can still order food from what’s now called Moon Palace Express which is a pickup booth in the front room which you enter before going into the bar. The bar itself has nice lighting that isn’t too dark or too bright with a colorful backdrop and Asian inspired cocktails plus foreign and local beers and bar food too. I don’t get out for cocktails as much as I used to but the two I had from here were both really good. The first was a very well mixed Mai Tai, a fav of mine. I followed that up with a drink called ‘Paradise Lost’ that mixes clarified, novo fogo prata, rhine hall mango, ube extract, pineapple, thai coconut milk. Fantastic.

Mai Tai at Nine Bar

If you’re looking for some snacks to go with your drinks they got you covered on that. We visited at a time when the General Jones' Wings were on special (available Wed + Thurs until 8pm). Wok-fried wings are tossed in Moon Palace's general tso's sauce and sprinkled with sesame seeds. I don’t eat wings as much I used to but I feel like these are an instant contender for the city's best batch of non-Buffalo style wings. Flawlessly fried and tossed in a very tasty sauce that perfectly coats the wings.

General Jones' Wings at Nine Bar

We also crushed an order of Mapo Hot Fries which are waffle fries topped with saucy chili pork, togarashi, spicy mayo, pickled peppers, and scallions. An awesome bar snack that I could eat all to myself but if I had one critique it would be they weren’t quite as covered in toppings as I would’ve liked.

Mapo Hot Fries

There’s a handful of vegan options including some delicious dumplings with tofu, veggies, glass noodles, chili oil, black vinegar, scallions. These had great texture and the taste didn’t skip a beat without meat. When the couple behind Nine Bar started to develop their ideas for it, it was with a bar they visited in Vancouver's Chinatown in mind. I think I know exactly which spot they visited and I too wondered why Chicago’s Chinatown didn’t have spots like it or the famous Li Po Cocktail Lounge in San Francisco’s Chinatown when I was there. Happy to report that we now have one in Nine Bar. 

Dumplings at Nine Bar 

Nine Bar
216 W Cermak Rd
Chicago, IL 60616
(312) 225-4081
Website

Eating BIG Milwaukee Pt. 3

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- More Eating and Drinking in MKE

It’s been quite a while since I checked in with a report from the Brew City aka Cream City. But I’ve visited plenty of times since then so it’s time for a new roundup on what’s good in what I like to call my “favorite Chicago suburb” which is a slight joke but it’s proximity to here makes it my favorite spot to spend a day within two hours of Chicago. I’ve always considered Milwaukee a mini Chicago or a little sibling of sorts since it’s so similar to the Chicago I remember as a kid. But Milwaukee is less gentrified and less developed in terms of new buildings replacing old ones so it really does bring back memories of the Chicago where there was a tavern on every corner and such. Plus it sits on the same lake so lots Milwaukee's lakefront is similar to Chicago right down to the rich peoples suburbs being north of the city. There's no spot outside of Chicago I feel more at home in than Milwaukee. 

Sights from Milwaukee 

I’ve been visiting Milwaukee for more than 20 years so I’ve watched it grow in many different ways. One of it’s biggest changes for the better seems to be it’s food and drink scene which has always been fun from an old school perspective but in the last decade or so has grown into a full fledged scene that features all sorts of new and interesting things that would seem way out of place 20 years ago. I ranked it the 5th best food city in the Midwest (behind Chicago, Detroit, MSP, and St. Louis) but I also said it’s got the best chance of rising bc it’s always getting better. Just like Chicago, Milwaukee is at it's best over summer and into the Fall with it's many farmers markets, festivals and something Chicago doesn't have, it's beer gardens. So, just in time for Summerfest, here's where to eat in MKE. 

Sights from Milwaukee
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Allie Boy’s Bagelry & Luncheonette

Good bagels in Milwaukee?!?! Yeah I think so though I'm by no means an expert in bagels (only New Yorkers can be, right? ;) but on a serious note this spot is all about it's bagel sandwiches which are something I don't always enjoy as a bagel isn't always a great vessel for a sandwich. But the Reubeneski is an exception. It's their ode to the Reuben in bagel sandwich form. It's made with brined and smoked pastrami brisket, melted gruyere, special sauce with caramelized onion, house kraut and dill. Served on a pumpernickel bagel. Allie Boys makes for a great way to start your day in MKE. 

The Reubeneski at Allie Boy's Bagelry
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Riley's Sandwich Co. 

One of the best steak sandwiches I've had in some time came from this friendly neighborhood establishment in Shorewood. It's owned by a couple who share a love for dogs and sandwiches. The space is canine friendly so don't be surprised to find a dog taking selfies inside. The sandwiches will also surprise, particularly the steak offerings which are all made with a wonderful medium rare sous vide beef tenderloin that works particularly well in sandwiches due to it's tenderness. The signature offering is the Steak Kensington which is made with slices of tenderloin, a housemade horseradish spread plus mushroom, onion, and cheese on a perfectly sourced roll from a local Italian bakery. 

The Steak Kensington at Riley's Sandwich Co. 
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Sweet Basil 

Lao Sausage is taking over the cheese and dairy state in ways the bratwurst did previously. Traditionally called Sai Oua or Sai Gok it’s become a dish that many Americans are introduced to Lao food through and it’s the perfect introduction to what Lao food is all about. They always come bursting with all the flavors and aromatics that make Laotian food so sensational. What I really love about Sweet Basil's Lao sausage offering is the option to add a flight of Jeow sauce in three different styles. They include 1) Jeow Bong: Thick Laotian chili paste made with sundried chilies, galangal, garlic, and other ingredients commonly found in Laos. 2) Jeow Mak Len: A Laotian tomato dipping sauce, similar to a salsa. Tomatoes, chilies, and onions are grilled, then mashed with a mortar and pestle into a potent sauce seasoned with lime and cilantro. 3) Jeow Som: A liquid dipping sauce with sweet, sour, and citrus flavors. All of them pairing perfectly with both the Lao sausage and an order of sticky rice.

Lao Sausage with Sticky Rice and Jeow Flight at Sweet Basil
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Amilinda

 

Chicago (and the Midwest in general) doesn't have a ton of Portuguese restaurants. So I'm always intrigued whenever I find one. A 2019 trip to Portugal was memorable and I kind of fell in love with the food while there. Amilinda is located in downtown Milwaukee and calls themselves a Spanish / Portuguese inspired spot. They have entrees like Piri Piri Chicken so it's definitely got some very Portuguese dishes on offer. The chicken is what got me in but my visit was two years ago. I checked the menu and the chicken remains so that's cool. We enjoyed our visit and would go back.

Portguese Food at Amilinda
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Interval

I don't drink coffee so forgive me if I'm wrong but Milwaukee seems to have a really strong coffee scene. There's certainly alot of independent coffee shops and some of them do more than just caffeine. Interval was one that caught my eye due to it's food menu and also it's sleek space. It's a community driven spot with a small hyper-seasonal menu of Scandinavian-inspired plates and homemade pastries served throughout the day. We snacked on a variety of open faced sandwiches (Smørrebrød) on our visit which was a while back but it's a spot I've been meaning to get back to. 

Scandinavian Bites at Interval 
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Triciclo Peru

This popular Peruvian restaurant grew into a full service spot from a small food cart that used to be found around town. They gained fame through their large Peruvian empanadas and now boast a full menu plus bar at their Washington Park location. I've tried their empanadas which are excellent and also their Peruvian home cooking in the form of Tallarin Saltado which is the same thing as Lomo Saltado except you substitute tallarin pasta for the fries. Included with the tagliatelle pasta is seared tenderloin, onions, tomatoes and a rich brown gravy. Peruvian food always tastes home cooked. 

Tallarin Saltado at Triciclo Peru
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Buffalo Boss

It's not often spots from Brooklyn open up in Milwaukee like Buffalo Boss did when they signed up to be a tenant in The Sherman Phoenix complex. The marketplace / community center replaced a burnt out bank in a neighborhood that was in need of positive economic change. There's some cool stuff to be found inside this complex and most if not all of it is Black owned. Buffalo Boss sources organically raised, hormone-free and antibiotic-free chicken wings. They’re also do meatless Impossible Wings. Hormone free chickens means these wings aren't super sized which to me is a good thing. 

Buffalo Wings at Buffalo Boss 
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Drift MKE

Fans of the Australian and Kiwi loved meat pie should head over to this mobile cafe for a taste of their New Zealand style meat pies. When I last visited it was parked right outside of the Public Market. I do love these as I learned from a trip to South Africa where they're also very popular. Over the last five or ten years they've become readily avail in North America too. Below is a delicious chicken curry pie.  

New Zealand Style Meat Pie at Drift MKE
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Mazorca Tacos

Milwaukee has a good a low key taco truck culture. Not just trucks but there's lots of mom and pop spots worth checking out bc you never know what type of regional treats they might be making. There's also some permanent food trailers in Milwaukee worth seeking out and Mazroca Tacos at the Zocalo Food Park is worth finding. It's the city's first food trailer park ala cities like Austin and Portland. Mazorca is the anchor as this was once a lone trailer parked in a vacant lot as seen in the pic above. 

Tacos at Mazorca Tacos 
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Tostadas By Maranta 

When in Milwaukee I like to keep my eye out for street food stands like Tostada by Maranta. They make "farm to table" tostadas. The current schedule can be found on their instagram. Ingredients are sourced locally and they make the tostada shells too. We tried a couple including a pork belly and a chicken, both stacked high and full of flavor. I'll be keeping an eye out for them on future visits. 

Tostada by Maranta 

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Taqueria La Sieritta 

I was told this place makes some of the best tacos in Milwaukee and that would indeed be true. I say so bc they’d be really good in Chicago or anywhere for that matter. In fact there’s some great taco spots here just like there are in so many other spots in the Midwest. Tacos are the new burgers in that you’re never far from a good one. Crisp bits of steak and chunks of tender suadero pictured below.

Tacos at Taqueria La Sieritta 

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Mae Velma's Corned Beef

As I've discussed in previous posts the corned beef scene in Milwaukee is first class. I think it's on a level all it's own due to the fact most spots hand slice a steamed product that resembles Texas brisket in thickness. The online reviews of Mae Velma's vary greatly but my visit was great. Their Rueben sandwich was perfectly constructed with thick and tender corned beef between nicely toasted bread. Even better is the fact you can use their drive thru to grab one. There's nothing like this in Chicago.  

Reuben Sandwich at Mae Velma's Corned Beef 
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Damascus Gate Restaurant

One of my favorite streets to ride and or walk around is the Historic Mitchell Street which is rich with history, dating back to the mid 1800's. At one time it was known as "The Downtown of Milwaukee's South Side. Damascus Gate opened back in 2019 and it was the first Syrian restaurant in town when it did. It's operated by a family of Syrian refugees who were welcomed to Milwaukee by a local doctor of Syrian descent. It's been welcomed with open arms by all including the local Muslim population who frequented during Ramadan when a fixed price buffet featured all sorts of dishes you wont find anywhere else in the area but here. I visited on a quiet weekday so the menu was a bit more typical like a plate of mujadara which is a mixture of lentils and rice with fried onions on top. I always order this dish when I see it and it never disappoints. The falafel wrap was also really good. 

Syrian Food at Damascus Gate 
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Taqwas Bakery and Restaurant 

You can find another Middle Eastern gem down in Greenfield not far the airport. Taqwas Bakery is ran by a woman from Jordan, the restaurants namesake, who opened the place in 2020. The centerpiece of the inside is a beautiful brick oven where savory pastries like beef fatayer are made. These came straight from the oven making them one of the most satisfying Middle Eastern snacks I've come across. We also tried the Falafel, Arayes, and Diwali. All of the freshly baked stuff was outstanding but the diwali (grape leaves with meat) seemed to be a few days old with very little taste or texture.

Jordanian Food at Taqwas Bakery and Restaurant 

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House of Papaya

I've featured the former iteration of 5EXEN when it was known as Phongsavan Market. It's the main marketplace for the areas Hmong community which is a group of people that traditionally lived in Laos, Vietnam and China and are an ethnic group, not a nationality. Both Milwaukee and the Minneapolis areas have Hmong communities and places like 5EXEN Market is where many will shop. It's always switching up as far as ownership and layout but the last I visited they had just opened a new food court in the back. There was room for maybe 6-8 stalls but only half of them were open on our visit. We tried a bunch of the typical Hmong snacks like the chicken wings stuffed with glass noodles and the sausage and such. Plus a extra funky bamboo salad that got funkier with each bite. 

Hmong Food at 5EXEN Market 
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Three Brothers 

I used a trip up north to watch the Cubs as an excuse to finally check out this James Beard ‘America’s Classic’ award winner in Milwaukee. There’s tons of old school spots up here and I’ve been to most of them but Three Brothers was a spot always left unchecked with each passing visit. Located in an otherwise residential part of the Bayview neighborhood is one of the best kept Schlitz Tied Houses left. The triangular spit of land was purchased by the Schlitz Brewing Company in 1897 for $250 and the building was built shortly thereafter. An immigrant from Yugoslavia named Branko Radicevic Sr. bought the building and moved his tavern popular for Serbian food and culture here in 1956. The Three Brothers name was chosen bc Branko wanted his three sons to eventually run the place. Three Brothers is still in the same family today and as you can see very little has changed. No cheese curds or Spotted Cow to be found here but they do make a bangin’ Burek. The house specialty is Branko’s wife’s recipe and it takes an hour to bake so don’t plan on getting in and out if you’re dining in. It was a warm day on our visit and the Croatian salad was a great start. It’s made with finely diced tomato, onion, and green pepper mixed in a special dressing and topped with Serbian cheese. Burek comes in one size and your choice of beef, cheese, or spinach. I could only eat one slice but damn it was delicious. I need to revisit on a crisp October night when the smell of sarma is in the air.

Serbian Food at Three Brothers
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Zaffiro's Pizza

Zaffiro's was basically the first spot I became a regular at in Milwaukee. Not in the sense of a local but of a visitor in that I've stopped in regularly over the years. Not every trip but often enough. It's in my opinion the second best tavern thin pizza not just in Wisconsin but anywhere (I put Wells Brothers in Racine at #1). They've been open since 1954 and I haven't found a thinner sausage pizza anywhere. 

Sausage and Half Giardiniera at Zaffiro's Pizza

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Leon's Frozen Custard

Last stop? Leon’s. More times than not this is the spot I hit before heading home. Unlike other custard stands it’s open year round. Another thing that sets them apart from all others is their Spanish Burger. What’s that you ask? Well it’s kind of a cross between a loose meat and a Sloppy Joe. It’s not quite as dry as a loose meat but also not quite as wet as a sloppy joe. It’s somewhere in between and they’re better than any loose meat or Sloppy Joe that I’ve ever tried. Why is it called a Spanish Burger isn’t quite known but it could be related to the “Spanish Dogs” of Indiana which you can read about HERE. They cost like $2.50 each which is a pretty great deal in todays day and age. I like to get a couple with a cherry phosphate float. I think it’s important to note that the owner of this longtime stand (est. 1942) was in the news a couple of years ago for making his staff communicate only in English even though many of the employees and also the customers speak Spanish. It’s a bitch ass move but it’s his business and it happens to be the type of spot that people from all walks of life enjoy so I figure it’s just a case of an old man that just doesn’t get it but I fault no one that wants to avoid Leon's bc of it. 

Spanish Burger at Leon's Frozen Custard 
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Click HERE for a google maps guide to the spots featured in this post

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See ya next time @chibbqking