Shrimp Tempura in Chicago

-Grubbing in Chicago(land)
Five of a Kind: Shrimp Tempura Run

Picking a favorite dish is an impossible task for someone like me who has way too many favorites to even remember them all in one swoop let alone pick just one. But I will say shrimp tempura would make a list of my 100 favorite dishes. It wasn’t always this way but after going to Japan back in 2019 I fell in love with tempura in general and I’ve been trying to find a suitable spot in Chicago to feed those temptations. Tempura has a fascinating cross-cultural history tracing back to Iberian Catholic fasting practices taken to the streets of Edo-era Japan via Jesuits and traders from Portugal who introduced the Japanese to batter and deep frying techniques. In Japan tempura can come in more ways than I can name. It can be a humble dish served over rice (Ten Don) or it can come with a show in the form of an omakase. I’ve long thought Chicago would be a perfect spot to open a tempura omakase experience as people in the Midwest love fried foods but it hasn’t happened yet. When it does I’ll be one of the first people there but for now here’s five spots I’ve visited in search of good tempura. 

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Omakase Shoji & Izakaya (Chicago)

It seems as though most of the decent tempura options are found in the Northwest suburbs but Omakase Shoji & Izakaya is the exception. This West Town sushi spot is supposed to have a very good omakase ($210) but I haven’t had the chance to try it. But they also have a little Izakaya setup in the front room and that I have done. We tried a handful of classic Izakaya dishes including a very good shrimp and vegetable tempura appetizer that hits the spot at a very fair price. It’s lightly battered and has a nice crunch to it. For now, this is the best shrimp tempura I’ve found within city limits. 

Shrimp Tempura at Omakase Shoji
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Tenjin (Lincolnwood)

Next we head north to Lincolnwood where Tenjin (formerly Renga Tei) has served Chicagoland’s Japanese-American community since 1991. The transition from Renga-Tei to Tenjin occurred after a husband and wife duo from Fukuoka, Japan, took over the business back in 2023. They operated as Renga-Tei for roughly a year before rebranding the business to Tenjin (named after a vibrant food district in their hometown of Fukuoka). The menu here is a what's what of Japanese food in the form of sushi, udon, teriyaki, katsu, tempura and so forth. They have daily specials too and it’s a popular stop with Japanese families in the area. I usually get the Yaki Udon or a chicken teriyaki bento box but I tried the Ten Don on a recent visit. Ten-Don refers to a shrimp tempura (ten) bowl (don is short for donburi). The Ten Don at Tenjin comes with two shrimps and a handful of standard vegetables like pepper, onions, and zucchini. Some of the veggies were crisp while others were soft likely due to the way they were placed on the mound of white rice. Ten Don is typically served with a tempura sauce made up of soy sauce, mirin, sake and more but there was none served with this. I like all forms of shrimp tempura so I enjoyed this for what it was but I was hoping for a little more in terms of quality. 

Shrimp Tempura Bowl (tendon) at Tenjin
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Daruma Restaurant (Schaumburg)

Moving onto Schaumburg where you’ll find a trio of tempura options. First up is Daruma. This place has been serving Japanese food since the 80’s. It’s developed a reputation among Japanese expatriates living in the northwest suburbs. They’re known for their sushi and Japanese spaghetti among many other things. I visited one night a few years back and they weren’t doing sushi due to some sort of equipment gaffe so I pivoted to the shrimp tempura bowl. Not bad at all. I liked how the shrimps and all the vegetables had good crunch despite tempura sauce being poured on top. Not the best I’ve had but it hit the spot for sure. Do make sure to try their Yoshoku style spaghetti though. 

Shrimp Tempura Bowl (tendon) at Daruma
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Tempura Man (Schaumburg)

Staying in Schaumburg we’ll head over to a new tempura spot from the guy behind the Chicago Ramen brand. Kenta Ikehata is a Japanese chef who trained and worked at the acclaimed Tokyo ramen shop Tsujita before helping open and manage Tsujita's first U.S. location in Los Angeles. He later moved to the Chicago area (first location was in Des Plaines) and launched Chicago Ramen, bringing Tsujita-style tonkotsu ramen and tsukemen to the Midwest. Tempura Man is the latest project by Kenta Ikehata. The concept grew out of his desire to create a restaurant focused almost entirely on freshly fried tempura, something that's surprisingly rare in the Chicago area. The restaurant is built around a comic-book superhero character called "Tempura Man" - a caped hero flying through the air on a giant shrimp tempura. I stopped by a couple weeks ago and noticed little stickers for a free item in front and I grabbed one and sat down. I asked the waiter what the little piece of paper got me and he told me I could try anything I wanted off the menu. So basically I ate for free (I did buy a beer). I chose the shrimp tempura udon platter and it was pretty good. I thought the tempura could’ve been hotter but it hit the spot in a way tempura always does. Note: Torizen is yet another tempura option in Schaumburg and likely the best of the bunch - click here to see a previous report on that place.

Shrimp Tempura Udon Set at Tempura Man
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Tendon Tempura Carlos Jr (Arlington Heights)

Final stop takes us to Arlington Heights where you’ll find the areas best tempura spot stationed inside Mitsuwa Market. The Japanese grocery store stays packed with people shopping for Japanese groceries and also people looking to eat at one of the handful of food stalls found inside the market.  A critically acclaimed tempura chain out of the Los Angeles area opened there last year. I’d been waiting for a tempura donburi specialist (tendon) to open in Chicagoland so I didn’t hesitate taking the ride out to Tempura Carlos Jr. to see what was up. Since it was a Saturday the place was packed though despite that the line wasn’t that long and they were moving it quite fast. I tried the ‘Edomae Tendon’ which is two pieces of fried shrimp, kakiage, conger eel, shishito pepper, pumpkin, seaweed and soft boiled egg. All of which is dunked in a house tare sauce which is a thin umami rich heavily concentrated seasoning sauce. The sauce seeps into the white rice creating a delicious second meal of sorts after finishing off tempura. As of now this is the best tempura you’ll find in Chicagoland.

Edomae Tendon at Tendon Tempura Carlos Jr.
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See ya next time @chibbqking 

Viral Chicago Food

-Grubbing in Chicago
Five of a Kind: Gone Viral

I started to do these five of a kind posts as a way to showcase specific dishes. It’s much easier writing a paragraph on a piece of pizza I tried than it is doing an entire post. It’s also a way to get a little more content up and not left on my phone to forget about. So I’m always thinking of ways I can combine five different things I ate and this post kind of came about when I recently tried two places I knew of due to their popularity on social media apps like Instagram. I thought to myself hmm what other things did I eat that were directly influenced by Instagram and I was able to come up with five spots (and dishes) that I likely learned of online by appearing on my food dominant timelines. So today’s post is about five places that have gone viral. It’s true that a lot of viral foods are gimmicks but not all of them are. Some are just good and catch on in a way that’s organic in terms of specific dishes like pizza, bagels, burgers, pasta, and hand rolls being popular with the younger TikTok demographic. 

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Tilly Bagel (South Loop)

We start with bagels but not at the spot in Lincoln Park that had lines around the block last week. I don’t have plans to go there as I already tried an outlet in Delray Beach and the bagels there reminded me of the packaged ones you get at the supermarket. Today we check out Tilly Bagel which was a popup during the pandemic that turned brick and mortar in 2023. Tilly is known for its sourdough bagels that people have been known to line up for. No lines when I visited on a Tuesday morning (St. Patrick's Day) to try their popular cacio e pepe bagel with a smear of caramelized onion cream cheese. Simply put I’m not a big bagel guy so make of this what you will. I thought it was ok. The bagel had decent chew but maybe needed a little more. The cream cheese didn't really have much of a grilled onion taste and I thought there was too much of it on mine but I’ve seen people complain at places that put much less so maybe overloaded is the preferred normal for most but not for me. In the end I felt about these how I do about most bagels - it was fine for what it was - a bagel.

Cacio e Pepe Bagel with Caramelized Onion Cream Cheese at Tilly Bagel
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Chomp Pizza (Pilsen)

Next up we head over to Pilsen where we’ll pop into the 18th Street Pink Line stop where Chomp Pizza runs a slice stand. It’s ran by a guy named Travis who used to worked at Paulie Gee’s in Wicker Park before doing his own thing at Chomp Pizza where they pretty much serve just one thing - a slice of cheese pizza ($5). I saw this place making the rounds online and made a point of trying it. I arrived right around opening time so the pizza had just come out of the oven. The pizza is made with a simple blend of tomatoes, Grande Cheese Co. mozzarella and some oregano but the magic is in the dough which is taken very seriously. The color on the crust is slightly darker and the texture is crisp and crackly. I can see why this place has become popular with people passing thru the 18th St. Station. 

Cheese Slice at Chomp Pizza
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Smash Jibarito (Humboldt Park)

A lot of these viral food spots started as pop-ups as is the case with our next stop - Smash Jibarito in Humboldt Park. These guys paid their dues on the pop-up circuit and now have a spiffy new brick & mortar on Division. It’s the perfect fit for their hit smash burgers inspired by the classic Jibarito sandwiches that originated in this Puerto Rican enclave. This means instead of buns they’re using flattened and fried green plantains aka tostones to hold their smashed beef patties. The menu is tight with just a few burgers, some sides, and one wildcard item which is their twist on a pizza puff. The plantain “bun” on these burgers holds up better than you’d think and adds some extra crunch to the mix. Pictured below is “estilo Animal” aka Animal Style ala In-N-Out and it's a damn good burger. 

Jibarito Smash Burger at Smash Jibarito
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Italian Homemade Co. (Fulton Market)

Pasta is a dish that tends to go viral as often as any and Fulton Market is a place where restaurants commonly go viral so of course a pasta spot on Fulton Market is going to go viral. The Italian Homemade Company got started in San Francisco circa 2014 before opening their Chicago location around 2024 as made from scratch pasta spots have really taken off. As soon as you walk in you’ll see the setup they have for making pasta from scratch plus a fridge with a bunch of that pasta packaged for home use. Or if you want to eat there you can pick a pasta and pick a sauce to go with it or choose one of their specialty pastas. Seems like most of the people working here are Italian, for whatever that’s worth. I saw some videos about the lasagna and they list it among their specialties so I stopped in with a friend when he said he had a taste for lasagna. There was some sort of meet and greet going on so the place was packed and our table was surrounded by annoying people with no sense of their surroundings and it was loud but that's to be expected in this area. I got the meat lasagna which is made with a beef and pork bolognese, bechamel, parmigiano. This was a textbook version. The pasta was fresh and soft and the meat sauce had a nice beefy taste to it. A very hearty dish. I wouldn’t go out of my way to eat here but if you're already near there it’s a pretty good option. 

Meat Lasagna at Homemade Italian Company
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Noriko Handroll Bar (West Loop)

Last stop takes us over to Perilla Korean Fare in the West Loop. Perilla is a Michelin-recognized Korean BBQ restaurant group with a Steakhouse in the Loop. They also have a tiny handroll bar located in the basement of their West Loop location. It’s called Noriko Handroll Bar and it’s a hot reservation in big part due to it being such a small space with seating for around 20. The menu is revolved around handrolls with starters and a few crudo options. They have a few different sets you can get that mixes and matches a variety of rolls. Every seat is at the chef’s counter and all handrolls are made to order and meant to be eaten immediately. We started with a couple crudos which were just ok. I chose to go with the chefs handroll set with yellowtail, California roll, bluefin tuna poke, bluefin tuna toro, and bay scallop dynamite. I think I paid around $42 for the five rolls. They were all pretty good but the bay scallop dynamite roll was perfectly named as it was a lot more dynamic than the others as far as flavor. It’s described as a baked/spicy scallop with toppings like masago and sweet soy and it gets a kiss of flame with a blowtorch that gives it a smokiness that almost resembles a hot dog. That might sound funny but this was a really satisfying taste to me and one of the best things I ate last year. If I ever go back I’ll probably order a few of those and make a meal out of them.

Bay Scallop Dynamite Roll at Noriko Handroll Bar
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See ya next time @chibbqking

Lamb in Chicago

-Grubbing in Chicago(land)
Five of a Kind: Easter Lamb Special

With Easter Sunday around the corner now is a good time to showcase some of my favorite lamb dishes around town. I was curious why lamb is so closely associated with Easter and according to what I read it’s due to religious symbolism that goes back thousands of years - mainly from both Judaism and Christianity. But there was also a real world explanation that spring is when lambs are naturally available as they’re born in late winter/early spring. Historically, it was one of the first fresh meats eaten after a long winter and it became a natural centerpiece for a spring holiday meal. Back when I was a kid we used to have lamb most Sundays at my grandmas house but I wasn't a big fan back then and usually walked down to Pop's and ate an Italian beef and or gravy bread instead. But over the years I've come to love lamb especially when it's grilled over a live fire. I wish the U.S. took lamb as seriously as England where it's common but you kind of have to find spots that serve it in the States. So I've gathered a handful of lamb dishes I've recently ate and would happily eat again. 

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9 Muses Bar & Grill (Greektown)

We’ll start in Greektown as the Greeks are serious about lamb. Though the area is a shell of its former self with only a handful of Greek restaurants left. 9 Muses Bar & Grill blends into Halsted where it looks more like a bar than a restaurant. It doesn’t look all that Greek compared to the other spots but if you’re familiar with Greek mythology the Nine Muses are goddesses of inspiration for the arts, literature, sciences. 9 Muses on Halsted is a Greek owned bar and grill with a Greek forward menu. I stopped in here with the alderman and his team one day and decided to try the lamb steak which sounded great and it was. Nothing fancy but it’s far from standard. It comes with extra starch in the form of rice and potatoes and has that wonderful taste of char grilled lamb that I’ve come to love. 

Lamb Steak at 9 Muses Bar & Grill
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Central East Asian Cuisine (Chinatown)

Next we head to Chinatown where the generically named Central East Asian Cuisine sits at the end of Wentworth. This spot is churning out Central Asian food from the lens of the Chinese side. I’ve visited a few times and it looked like hot pot is popular with groups but it’s the skewers that got me in the first time and thats also why I returned twice since my initial visit. I could eat the grilled lamb skewers from here every day for the rest of my life and I doubt I would get sick of them. They pack so much flavor from a rubbing of cumin and other spices along with a trip over charcoal that releases all the delicious fat. They actually have two different types of lamb skewers but I much prefer the smaller ones which are 5 for $5 and listed among the best things we ate in 2025 in a Chicago Magazine feature. They also make a really great samsa here which is a savory lamb pastry by way of Central Asia. But it’s the skewers that always leave me wanting more. Click HERE for a deeper dive into Central Asian food.

Lamb Skewers at Central East Asian Cuisine
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Momotaro (West Loop)

We went to Momotaro last summer for my birthday dinner. It’s not my scene per se but we’ve been fans of Chef Gene Kato going back to when he ran Sumi Robata Bar and the Boka Restaurant Group was smart to bring him on board. Momotaro is a see and be seen type of place but the Japanese inspired food is the only reason I wanted to go. I thought the sushi was just ok but all the other dishes were hits including anything from the robata bar. Robata is short for Robatayaki which is a traditional Japanese cooking style that involves grilling food over hot binchotan charcoal at different speeds. Chef Kato is a robata specialist and his lamb chops aka Kohitsuji just might his best offering. High quality bone-in chops are rubbed with a mixture of red miso, sake, gochujang, and brown sugar and broiled before a trip to the robata where they take on a wonderfully smoky flavor and some incredible caramelization to go with it. They come served with a cup of white rice and I suggest dumping the rice on your plate and placing the lamb chops on top so that so the juices from it can seep into rice. 

Bone-in Lamb Chops at Momotaro
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Bocadillo Market (West Town)

Speaking of smoky and succulent lamb I’m so glad to have the smoked lamb sandwich at Bocadillo Market back into the rotation. This place originally opened on Clark in Lincoln Park but ended up moving to Grand Avenue across the street from D’Amato’s and Bari, a couple of Italian delis known for their sandwiches. I’m a fan of both of spots but the smoked lamb bocadillo at Bocadillo Market might be the best sandwich on a block that also includes Tempesta Market. Smoked lamb is seriously underrated and I think the smoked lamb sandwich from here is the best tasting smoked lamb in the city. You almost wish that there was an option to get it as a platter. The sandwich consists of smoked, braised, locally sourced lamb, mojo rojo (Nora pepper) aioli, shaved carrots, cilantro, fresh mint, and pickled green beans on a crisp Spanish baguette. Served with some excellent Patatas Bravas. 

Smoked Lamb Sandwich at Bocadillo Market
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Al Bawadi Grill (Bridgeview)

Lastly we head to the suburb of Bridgeview - the backbone of the largest Palestinian community in the country. Al Bawadi is basically the anchor of Little Palestine. It sits on 87th street just off of Harlem which is the areas main strip lined with 100’s of middle eastern businesses including Al Bawadi which opened in 2008. It’s a big, communal, old-school Middle Eastern restaurant that leans into a Bedouin and Palestinian aesthetic of patterned fabrics, lamps, and a kind of “desert tent” feel that’s a bit over-the-top in a fun way. It’s the type of place where families go to celebrate so it’s a very festive place putting out some really wonderful wood grilled kebabs. I still remember the first time I tried this place and instantly fell in love with the idea of the wood grilled kebab to where it’s now one of my absolute favorite things to eat. I’ve never strayed away from the lamb which I think benefits most from the use of live fire when it comes to the grilling of different meats. The lamb kebabs at Al Bawadi have basically become comfort food for me as I take the drive out at least once a year to eat them. They also have a second location in Niles these days but I like going out to the original as Bridgeview is filled with other Middle Eastern spots to try. I’m currently working on what’s going to be a massive post of newer places to open in the area since the last time I posted from there so do stay tuned. 

Lamb Kebab at Al Bawadi Grill
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See ya next time @chibbqking

Eating BIG in Lima

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- Crossing One Off the Bucketlist

I was finally able to get to Lima this past November. Lima sat at or near the top of my travel bucketlist for a really long time. Notice how I said Lima and not Peru. Honestly I never had much interest in visiting Peru outside of going to Lima to eat, which is partly why it took me so long to get there. Most people go to Lima because they have to stop there before they go to Macchu Picchu or elsewhere. I was the opposite in that I wanted to go to Lima but didn’t have much interest in going to Cusco or elsewhere, that was a mistake. More on my mistake at the end of this post but for now I’m going to show and tell you why the people that use Lima as just a stop over are also making a mistake. 

Pics from Lima (click all pics to enhance)

Lima is the capital of Peru and the country’s political, economic, and culinary centers. It sits on the Pacific coast in a massive desert-meets-ocean metropolis of nearly 10 million people. It’s gritty, it’s historic, and it’s very much a food forward city. Culturally it has a strong mix of Indigenous, Spanish, African, Chinese, and Japanese influence. The city has massive festivals tied to Catholic traditions and a big surf culture as you can catch waves year-round. Lima is often considered the food capital of Latin America. Lima isn’t conventionally “beautiful” at first glance. The traffic is terrible and the sky is grey. But it rewards those that dig in. Miraflores and Barranco are the two hip neighborhoods. Miraflores is modern, coastal, tourist-friendly and has a ton of restaurants. Barranco is bohemian, artsy and nightlife-heavy. San Isidro is the main business district. Centro Histórico is full of Colonial architecture and history. Barrio Chino is home to the oldest Chinese community in Latin America.

Pics from Lima

As far the food goes it really did live up to the hype and then some. I haven’t ate that well on a country's local cuisine since the last time I was in Asia. Lima is rightfully placed among the world’s best food cities. Peru has coast, mountains, and jungle, and Lima sits right on the Pacific meaning easy access to fresh seafood, 100’s of varieties of potatoes and corn from the Andes, plus tropical fruits, cacao, and herbs from the Amazon. Mix all that with the deep connection to the Far East and you have a unique mix of culinary traditions that don’t just coexist — they reshape one another.

Pics from Lima
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La Lucha Sangucheria

We had a reservation for our first meal in Lima but had gotten there a bit early. That said there was an outlet of Lima’s most famous sangucheria down the block so I decided to knock La Lucha Sangucheria off of my hit list. Lima’s most well known sandwich chain was started by a guy named César Taboada, who had plans to make Peruvian-style sandwiches a source of national pride. He succeeded in a very short amount of time as the first location opened in Miraflores in 2008. Fast forward to 2026 and they have more than 10 locations in Lima plus outlets in Mexico City and Bogota.

Papas Fritas y Chicha Morada

The Pan con Chicharron is Lima’s most popular sandwich so it’s only fitting that it’s the most popular offering at La Lucha Sangucheria. This wonderful specimen starts with crisp Pan con Frances that gets stuffed with fried pork belly plus a slice of sweet potato and salsa criolla which is a cold relish of finely sliced red onions sitting in vinegar (it can include salt, tomatoes, garlic, Aji peppers). It's a heavyweight in the wide world of sandwiches and I suggest making a meal out of one by adding a side of terrific fresh cut fries that are cut by actual hands. The sandwich is a great mix of ingredients and should definitely be a source of national pride as should the fries. Make it a complete meal here by adding a Chicha Morada or a fresh squeezed juice into the mix. The former is Peru’s national non alcoholic drink and is made using culli as a base ingredient. Culli is a Peruvian variety of corn commonly known as purple corn and it's abundantly grown and harvested along the Andes Mountains region. Also of note are the juice options at Lima’s sandwich shops - they're outstanding. Limeños eat sandwiches at all hours of the day and they’re very popular for breakfast paired with a fresh fruit juice.

Pan con Chicharron at La Lucha Sangucheria
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Ototo Barra Nikkei

I hit the ground running as I walked over to Ototo Barra Nikkei after my introduction to Lima’s sandwich culture. We made a reservation to try the omakase at Ototo after learning the owner / chef came from Maido which some consider Lima’s best restaurant - it was ranked #1 in the 2025 Worlds 50 Best Restaurants list. Well Maido was booked by the time we got our tickets to Peru but Ototo was brand new and word was just starting to spread about this intimate Peruvian-Japanese (Nikkei) sushi bar in Surquillo. They offer a chef-led counter experience featuring fresh and local high quality ingredients in the form of nigiri, ceviche, and a few Japanese street food favorites served personally by owner and head chef Marco Palma. He's joined by his wife and two others in a space that seats maybe 10 people max. You can do ala carte or try all of the food thru the chefs tasting menu which was tough to pass up at a such a fair price-point ($45 for 8 courses). All the food was really good and the meal was very filling. I expect this place to blow up in terms of coverage over the next year or so. 

Amuse Bouche 

Ostra y Percebes

Octopus Gyoza

Usuzukuri (Tiradito)

Sando con Perjerrey

Nikkei Ceviche

Sashimi

Foie Gras Sashimi

Okayu Criollo
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Verbena Restaurante

Dinner on our first night in Lima was at Verbena Restaurante. I was very much looking forward to trying this place and that was before Chef Marco Palma at Ototo gave it a ringing endorsement during our lunch there. As it turned out he’s good friends with Richi Goachet who’s the head chef at Verbena. Chef Richi and his team are showcasing Peruvian ingredients with global touches in a small and cozy art filled space. The focus as far as ingredients is fresh and seasonal seafood and produce cooked in a small open kitchen. We started out with a plate of the tiradito which is a popular Peruvian dish of raw fish, cut in the shape of sashimi, and similar to crudo and carpaccio it’s served in a well spiced sauce. Tiradito reflects the influence of Japanese cuisine in Peru as the dish is a fusion between Peruvian and Japanese food aka Nikkei Cuisine. The technique of preparing fine cuts of sashimi in a spicy citrus base is practiced at restaurants throughout Peru and chefs get to put their personal touches on the dish as far as what type of raw fish to use and what goes into the sauce. The Tiradito served at Verbena was nothing short of outstanding but I can’t remember exactly what was in it aside from some house fried potato chips using one of the many varieties of Peruvian potatoes. Most of the ingredients they used were native to Peru and thus not flavors I was completely familiar with - but they left a lasting impression. Looking back on it every dish we had here was a hit resulting in an A+ meal. 

Verbena Tiradito

Artichoke Stew Empanadillas with Roasted Red Pepper Honey

Duck "Ramen" Pear Dim Sum with Pickled Mushrooms


Grilled Prawns, Zarandaja Beans, Chifles
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Sandwiches Monstruos

Sandwiches Monstruos is an all day and all night operation known for their big and hearty loaded sandwiches, hence the Monster Sandwiches name. The flagship location opened in Barranco in 1967 but they also have locations in San Miguel and Miraflores. I decided to walk over one morning and have a Sanguche de Pavo for breakfast. I chose turkey bc it was commonly mentioned in the reviews and also because turkey sandwiches are very popular in Peru. We’re talking actual turkey and not mystery deli meat. Fresh roasted turkey is stuffed into a Pan con Frances with Aji sauce plus salsa criolla and anything else you want. Simple but sensational in terms of a turkey sandwich.

Sanguche de Pavo at Sandwiches Monstruos
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Al Toke Pez

We made sure to get to Al Toke Pez right when it opened as it was already busy spot before gaining international attention after being featured in the Netflix series ‘Street Food: Latin America’. Though they moved to a new spot not too long ago so it’s not as cramped and tight spaced as it once was. While most of the reviews I read were positive there were a few that said it was overrated or too hyped but that’s to be expected once you hit it big. If you haven’t seen the episode featuring Al Toke Pez the series features Tomás “Toshi” Matsufuji, the Peruvian-Japanese chef and owner of Al Toke Pez. His dad was a renowned restaurateur and pioneer of Peru's Nikkei (Japanese-Peruvian) cuisine. In the episode Chef Matsufuji talks of the early struggle to live up to his dads legacy before deciding he was going to do what he wanted which is a lowkey spot where they do a few things and they do those things really well. The menu is basically made up of ceviche, arroz mariscos, and chicharrón de pescado and most people get the “combinado” which is a platter featuring all three. I was happy with the product. The ceviche tasted super fresh and might've been my favorite of all the ceviche I tried while the fried rice was really nice with big hits of wok hei. It's made to order and they get the wok smoking right there in front of you in the open kitchen. The fried fish was hot and crisp and cut into nice bite sized pieces. The people who leave this place negative reviews must be miserable. We had a fantastic first lunch that fed two of us for just $11. I don’t know if the lines have died down with time but it wasn’t busy on our visit granted we were in and out within an hour of them opening.

La Famosa Combinado at Al Toke Pez
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Alegría Picantería Piurana

Our second lunch of the day was at a newer spot that hasn’t reached the international masses yet but word has spread amongst Limenos. Alegría Picantería Piurana was already packed when we arrived for our 12:30p reservation. When I reached out to make that reservation weeks before they told me a 12:30p was all they had and I could see they weren't lying upon arriving. We were very clearly the only tourists in there as the crowd was mostly made up of large groups of locals ranging from people stepping out of work to eat to older ladies out lunching with their friends and so forth. Everyone here for big plates of Northern Peruvian favorites such as the Northern Ceviche featuring fresh Mero Fish aka grouper marinated in lime juice with onions, cilantro, Peruvian chili peppers. It comes with zarandaja beans and boiled yucca and is starting to gather buzz as the best ceviche in town. I'm not qualified to make that claim but it was extra fresh and had tons of depth in terms of texture and taste.

Northern Ceviche at Alegría Picantería Piurana

As good as the ceviche was it the Máncora style seafood rice that stole the show. I haven’t had enough plates of seafood rice to know how this one stacks up but the version at Alegría Picantería Piurana was one of the best things I ate in Peru. This dish is molded after the seafood rice served up in a resort town in Northwest Peru. It’s made with the daily catch, yellow chili sofrito, peas, sweet corn, zarandaja beans and a touch of lime. The amount of flavor packed into this dish was impressive and it had good texture going for it too with a huge pile of thinly shaved raw onions sitting on top. Unfortunately that was all we got to try as the portions are massive and meant to be shared. If I had an extra day I might've returned here to try something else such as the Seco de Chabelo or perhaps the Northern style baby goat stew. I bet the duck rice is also dank. What a great 1-2 Punch for lunch.

Máncora Style Seafood Rice Alegría Picantería Piurana
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Picarones "Mary"

Picarones Mary was another spot I wanted to try after seeing it on the Lima episode of ‘Street Food: Latin America’ on Netflix. It’s a cute little stand ran by a family that serves fresh Picarones or Peruvian donuts. Picarones originated in Lima during Spanish rule and are said to derive from buñuelos which are a Spanish deep-fried dough. While Picarones look like buñuelos they are one of a kind in that they aren’t made with just flour and eggs but instead with an interesting combination containing squash called macre mixed with boiled sweet potatoes which are mashed to make a puree which is mixed with flour, yeast, sugar. The puree is formed into the shape of a torus and deep fried before getting drenched in a sweet spiced syrup made of chancaca, an unrefined, raw sugarcane sugar product. Picarones are commonly enjoyed alongside a cup of Chicha Morada aka purple drink. Picarones Mary has been in Parque Kennedy since 1990 and has an additional stand in Miraflores.

Picarones at Picarones Mary
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Clon

Clon is a highly acclaimed restaurant in Lima's Barranco district. I would highly recommend it. They offer Venezuelan-Peruvian fusion cuisine and are led by head chef Juan Luis Martínez. It’s the casual "sister" spot to the award-winning Mérito which was still to come. But Clon is much more casual in terms of the setting and the pricing though the food is just as refined. High-quality ingredients are paired with skilled technique resulting in some wonderful plates of food coming out of the intimate open kitchen. I feel like this is the type of spot where you really can’t go wrong with whatever you order. Everything we got was awesome making it tough to pick a favorite. Yet another A+ meal.

Arepa Andina - Wheat Arepa, Fried Pejerrey, Yellow Chili Peppers

Taquito Panceta - Glazed Pork Belly over Arracacha Slices

Udon Chili Crab - Stir Fried Udon, Spicy Sour Sauce, Popeye Crab

Curry - Catch of the Day, Green Curry, Black Mashua Rice, Peruvian Corn

Churros - Churros Choux and Seasonal Ice Cream
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Anticucheria El Tio Mario

The Anticucho is quite literally the heart of Peruvian food. The beef heart-based dish is a very popular late night snack in Peru. Sliced pieces of beef heart are marinated in vinegar and more before being skewered and grilled over charcoal. I had originally walked over to the corner where a famous vendor sets up shop but she wasn’t there so instead I went to El Tio Mario which is a well known Anticucheria in the Barranco neighborhood. El Tio Mario started out as cart but has grown into a full blown restaurant. Lots of large groups out to on my visit which was solo so I got a two piece with potato which ended up being a ton of food for less than $10. The beef had a real nice flavor from the marinade and the grill but it was a tad chewy due to it being cut in huge chunks. A knife and fork come in handy as I found it much more pleasurable when cut into little bite sized pieces. The skewers come with a wonderful pair of red and yellow aji sauce that takes it to the next level. I would eat these again.

Anticucho at Anticucheria El Tio Mario
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DeMo

Next morning we headed back to Barranco to start the day at DeMo - the popular, high-end bakery and brunch spot ran by Juan Luis Martínez who also runs Merito and Clon. Chef Martinez and his team were 3-3 as DeMo is the real deal in terms of the pastries. We tried a few and each of them was outstanding including the super light and extra flaky croissant with tons of butter mixed in. It was Paris quality. They also do brunch and it looked great but we had lunch plans right down the block.

Pastries at DeMo
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Isolina

Isolina Taberna was right down the block from our last stop so we decided to stop by right as they were opening. Isolina is a celebrated Peruvian tavern style restaurant in Barranco. It’s known for serving classic criolla cuisine which is the hearty, traditional cooking of Peru that focuses on rich sauces, stews, and time-honored recipes. It’s a very popular spot with both tourists and locals thus it was packed within 20 minutes of opening. I wish this wasn’t a spur of the moment stop as the menu here is filled with interesting options but we came for the ‘Pan Con Pejerrey’ which is a Peruvian fish sandwich. It’s made with crisp fried pejerrey fillets served in crusty French-style bread, accompanied by salsa tártara and salsa criolla - a tangy mix of onions, lime, and chili added for brightness and acidity. All due respect to Florida but I think the best fish sandwiches might reside in Lima.

Pan con Pejerrey at Isolina
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Helado de Lima

Helado de Lima serves it's artisanal ice cream at a few locations in the city. The flavors here reflect the city's unique mix of coastal, Andean and immigrant influences. I've mentioned before that I much prefer fruit flavors to chocolate and creamy ones and a scoop of Maracuya was the right call. 

Maracuya (Passionfruit)
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Juanito Barranco

Because it wasn’t far I also made an impromptu stop for the Sanguche de Butifarra at Juanito Barranco. Butifarra is Peruvian country style ham which is boiled and roasted and seasoned with Aji panca chile peppers, garlic, and spices. Juanito Barranco is an old school spot that’s been serving Butifarra since 1937. They hand slice the Jamon to order and stuff into a crisp ciabatta roll with salsa criolla making it a simple but sensational sandwich in a real throw back the clock type of spot.

Butifarra at Juanito Barranco
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Shizen

The Nikkei food in Lima impressed at every meal it was featured in. Shizen is widely regarded among the best in town when it comes to Peruvian-Japanese food. The team at Shizen consists of two chefs with Japanese Peruvian roots and one from Northern Peru and they really nailed the combining of these two powerhouse cuisines. At Shizen they mix Peruvian citrus and chilies like ají amarillo and rocoto with Japanese sauces like ponzu, miso, and dashi. The final product is balanced but bold. Tiradito is the perfect example of this and always a must at a Nikkei spot like this. It was excellent.

Tiradito at Shizen

I was particularly enthralled with the Nikkei Nigiri which is a spin on classic Edo style Nigiri that uses Peruvian ingredients and Japanese technique. Nikkei Nigiri is much more contrasting than traditional sushi - it’s got acidity and sometimes even has heat to it. The nigiri menu at Shizen changes based on what’s fresh but based on what we ate it felt like it was tough to go wrong with whatever's selected.

Nikkei Nigiri at Shizen

We skipped the maki at Shizen and opted for some noodles instead. The Udon Uchucuta was a memorable bowl of thick and chewy udon noodles with shrimp and scallops sauteed in Batayaki sauce (a buttery mix of soy, mirin and more). Served with Rocoto Uchucutta which is a spicy condiment sauce commonly made with rocoto chiles, grated cucumbers, peanuts, huacatay leaves, evaporated milk, chopped onions, coriander leaves, queso fresco, and salt. The flavors were magical.

Udon Uchucuta at Shizen
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Chifa Titi

I had two food spots that I was not going to miss no matter what. The first of which was Chifa Titi. Chifa is the term used to describe the Peruvian-Chinese food that’s a staple of everyday life in Lima. It comes from Chinese immigrants (mostly Cantonese) who arrived in Peru in the late 1800s and blended their cooking with local ingredients and tastes. The name comes from the Cantonese phrase “chi fan” meaning “to eat rice.” Chifa can also refer to the restaurants that serve Peruvian-Chinese food and chifa spots are everywhere in Peru in the same way American Chinese food is found all over the U.S. Chifa is similar to American Chinese food (also a product of the Cantonese) but it has its own distinctions. It’s a bit saltier, smokier, and less sweet. Though the dishes are the same format with fried rice, stir-fried noodles, and crispy battered meats being the focal point of most Chifa menus. Chifa Titi is a higher end chifa (expect American prices) and those in the know will tell you it’s the best chifa in Lima. I wish I had more eating power here alas it was just me so I only got to try a few things. First up was an order of fried wontons which very much hit the spot but are probably better ordered for a group. Next out was the best shrimp fried rice I’ve ever had, the smoky flavor from the wok hei was incredible. I became familiar with Pollo Chi Jau Kay at a popular Peruvian Chinese restaurant in Miami and it's since become my go-to order at any chifa spot. It's a crispy, battered dish of deep-fried chicken that's cut and covered in a savory brown gravy infused with ginger, garlic, oyster sauce, and sesame oil. I loved Pollo Chijaukay before going to Titi and I love it even more after going there. 

Chifa Dinner at Chifa Titi
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Pastelería and Panadería San Antonio

Pastelería / Panadería San Antonio was founded by two Spanish friends, Don Pepe (José Vila) and Don Emilio, who together with a team of Peruvian baking artisans opened the very first San Antonio bakery on October 21, 1959, in the district of Magdalena in Lima. Today they have 9 locations in Lima making it a local staple for sandwiches and pastries. I walked over to one for breakfast one morning and it was bumping like we were in Paris or Zurich. I ended up getting a Peruvian Triple Sandwich as I'd read they're known for having a good one. The Triple Sandwich is made up of three thin slices of bread and a trio of layers made up of avocado slices, tomato slices, sliced hard-boiled eggs, and mayonnaise. It’s a ubiquitous snack at birthday parties and is also considered a typical breakfast. 

Triple Sandwich at San Antonio Bakery
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Aji y Rocoto

I mentioned how there were two spots on my must stop list and this was the other one. It wasn’t necessarily this exact place but I had to have a plate of Lomo Saltado while I was in Lima and ended up choosing Aji y Rocoto even though it was a bit off the typical tourist path plus they serve a portion meant to feed two. I’d read customers line up to eat here so I made sure I was there about 15 minutes before they opened and lucky me as I was the first one there. By the time I was seated a line started to form and as seen above it went all the way down the block by the time I was leaving. Aji y Rocoto sports a blackboard made up of maybe like ten items with Lomo Saltado always sitting at the very top. This beloved Peruvian stir-fry was originally a chifa dish blending Cantonese cooking techniques with Peruvian ingredients. It’s typically made with marinated strips of sirloin or tenderloin and wok-seared with red onions, tomatoes, ají amarillo peppers and soy sauce plus French fries, and vinegar, and served with white rice. I knew this would be good as soon as it arrived. It had a mesmerizing smell and was still sizzling having come fresh from a flaming wok. I basically inhaled most of what was on my plate leaving nothing but a small pile of rice. The flavors and the textures are off the charts with this dish. It’s tough to pick the single best thing I ate in Lima but it would also be tough not to pick this.

Lomo Saltado at Aji y Rocoto
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Tomo Cocina Nikkei

Tomo Cocina Nikkei is yet another popular spot for Nikkei. It was co founded by two guys that met years ago while working togther in other Lima based Nikkei kitchens. They teamed up to open Tomo and their combined experience and passion for Japanese-Peruvian food speaks loud and clear. For starters a fried fish steamed bun made up of the catch of the day deep fried in tempura with nikkei tartar sauce was lovely. But again it’s the nigiri that really stands out. I could eat the toro roll with tuna belly and a yellow smoked chili sauce every day and never get sick of it. Such wonderful flavors.

Nikkei Nigiri at Tomo Cocina Nikkei
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Curich Cremoladas

I was very happy to learn of the cremolada while I was still in Lima. Cremolada is a classic Peruvian frozen fruit dessert that’s similar to Italian ice (a personal favorite). It’s a refreshing and fruity slushie type of drink that’s especially popular during the warmer weather months. Made up of finely shaved ice, fresh fruit pulp, and syrup and it sits somewhere between a smoothie, a granita, and a slushie, but with a thicker, icy texture that sets it apart from other iced out fruit drinks. I love any and all forms of icy summertime treats so I sought one out at Curich Cremolada. The roots of this place trace back to 1942 when a man of Croatian descent started a family business that included helados and cremoladas. The Miraflores location is a walk up window and you can choose from dozens of fruity flavors that I’m pretty sure are all very good. I tried Maracuya and Mango and both slapped.

Cremolada at Curich Cremoladas
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Mérito

Our last meal in Peru was my most anticipated meal of the trip. When Lima is discussed as a great food city the conversation usually starts with the higher end tasting meal spots that are commonly ranked among the Worlds 50 Best. Well everything I read (mostly on the fine dining subreddit) said that both Central and Maito were living off their accolades while Mérito had taken over the crown of best tasting menu in town. Some went as far as to say it's the best restaurant in the world right now. If you give any sort of credence to 'The World's 50 Best' restaurant list it currently sits at #26 overall. 

Sachatomate aka Tamarillo (Tree Tomato)

Mérito is led by Chef Juan Luis Martínez, a Venezuelan chef who opened Mérito in 2018 after working and training in Peru’s fine‑dining scene. He combines his Venezuelan roots with Peruvian ingredients and techniques to create an acclaimed tasting‑menu experience featuring ingredients from the Amazon and the Andes. I believe the total number of courses can range between 8-12 but by the time we were finished we had 12 courses come out (there’s always a couple of Amuse Bouche type courses). Every dish we had was skillfully made with a few of the plates scoring a perfect ten. 

Yacon, fish, kiwicha


Mamey, olluco, macambo

First course out was an eye popping dish, or rather sip, of fermented Sachatomate juice. This "Jungle Tomato" juice was served chilled in it's own shell - it was fruity, salty and quite intense. Second was a plate of edible art made with chopped fish sandwiched between wafers of yacon root and kiwicha - an ancient crop planted and cultivated by the Inca 4,000 years ago. Third course was another plate of edible art made with mamey (a tropical fruit), olluco (an Andean tuber), and macambo, which is also known as white jaguar cacao. For the fourth course we had what I would describe as the kitchens twist on a ceviche. Instead of using limes they used sanky, a very sour Andean fruit, for its leche de tigre-style sauce. Fifth course was simply described as corn bread but it was so much better than any cornbread I've had in the past. Served wrapped in a charred husk with black butter (10/10). 

Scallops, sanky and jalapeno


Corn Bread in a Corn Husk

Sixth course was when we started getting into the proteins with dishes like a perfectly cooked piece of local trout in a light sauce made with huacatay - the potent herb also known as black mint. For the seventh course we tried Paiche, the huge Amazonian river fish, featured fish stick-style in a wrapper made of oxidized yacon. For dipping purposes there was tacupi - an Amazonian sauce made with fermented yucca and the addition of cacao nibs (10/10). The eighth course was the kitchens take on a curry mixing ancient and aromatic Andean herbs in a dark green sauce made of chincho, paico, haucatay and basil draped over prawns. Course number nine was my second favorite dish of this incredible tasting. The meals most luxurious dish was made with with Chilean wagyu and oxtail dumplings sitting in a rich and meaty sauce with pickled mango as a palate cleanser (10/10).

Trout and Huacatay


Paiche, cacao and tucupi


Andean Curry

Beef, arracache, mango

It’s not often a dessert dish is my favorite course of the night but I could not stop thinking about course number ten which the menu described as "cocona, mashua and lemon verbena." So an Amazonian fruit (cocona) with an Andean starch (mashua) plus Lemon Verbena - a fragrant perennial shrub with a strong lemon-scented aroma. Please believe me when I tell you it was as memorable of a dessert I’ve had. By this point the meal was well worth the price of admission ($220/pp) which isn't cheap but still very fair when compared to U.S pricing. The eleventh course was another delicious dessert described on the menu as Papa volodora (a tuber) coffee and lucuma. Served with a slice of super-airy cake that evaporated in your mouth like a cloud of sweetness leaving behind a delicate hint of caramelized warmth that balanced perfectly with the rich, earthy coffee and the tropical, almost honeyed flavor of the lucuma. Last but not least was a complimentary serving of their otherworldly flan which they sent out as an anniversary gift. Thus completed our culinary journey to another world.

Cocona, mashua, lemon verbena

Papa volodora (a tuber) coffee and lucuma 

Flan at Mérito
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BONUS TRIP!!!

Cusco Peru

Cusco is one of those cities where you can feel the history, even more so than the altitude. Upon our arrival I took a quick 25 minute stroll around town and quickly fell in love with the place. Yes it’s touristy but the tight cobblestone streets spill into grand plazas and the ghosts of the Inca civilization lurk at every turning corner. Serving as the gateway to Machu Picchu, Cusco is a magical place where mornings start with coca tea and afternoons are spent wandering past stone walls that have survived earthquakes since the 1400s. Evenings are meant for a Pisco sour or two. We weren’t there to eat (or drink) but I found a few spots that I would recommend including some very good shawarma served with Peruvian aji sauces at Shajjar "El auténtico sabor Mediterráneo" kebab & Shawarma. I tried an alpaca burger at Jacks Cafe and it was a tad dry but that was fixed with the toppings and a terrific house baked bun. I walked past Polleria Don Lucho one night and it was bustling. Three floors worth of dining rooms were jam packed but I managed to squeeze a spot and taste what everyone was there for - Peruvian style rotisserie chicken with salchipapas (French fries with sliced hot dogs and sauces). Other than that we ate at The Belmond Hotel which is where we stayed. They had a great breakfast buffet with local flavors including fresh fruit and Butifarra breakfast sandwiches. Our lovely stay at The Belmond came with perks so one night we tried a teriffic Arequipenian style rigatoni with shrimp in coral sauce, buttery cheese and Huacatay chimichurri. I wish we had more time to explore Cusco proper but we had daytime activities planned for every day save for the day we arrived.

Food in Cusco

We hired a local tour guide and a driver who took us on a daytrip to visit an old village where we watched locals make the alpaca clothing you see all over Cusco. It’s a very interesting and 100% natural process. I bought a close fitting knitted hat and some gloves that have come in handy in Chicago this winter. We also stopped at a popular passage on the Inka trail where mass was in session at an old church. After that we visited the Moray, a significant Inca archeological site located in the Sacred Valley. Our last stop of this incredible daytrip was the Salinas de Mares. The Salt Mines of Maras consist of over 5,000 ancient, terraced salt pans in operation since pre-Inca times. My jaw was dropped the entire day. It felt like I was in one of the mast magical places in the world.

Passing on an old Inka Trail

Moray

Maras Salt Mines

Of course the main reason for our visit to Cusco was the same as everybody else - to visit Machu Picchu. I'll just come out and say it from the start. It would've been crazy to go all the way to Peru and not visit Machu Picchu. Words cant describe the out of experience I had upon entering the area. It was breathtaking walking around this ancient site. There's different  ways you can get to Machu Picchu including hiking but we didn't have the time or the will to do that so instead we did the exact opposite of walking and camping. We rode the Hiram Bingham, an extension of the Orient Express. A trip on the Belmond Train includes the ride to Machu Picchu and the return journey with food, entertainment, and unlimited drinks. It's not cheap but it did make a memorable day even more so. The food was good (not great) but we met a really nice older couple from Australia on the way there and hung at the bar where everyone was having a good time on the ride back. If you want to reach out via email I can set you up with the people that took care of us in Cusco. That’s it for this trip!

Boarding the Haram Bingham

Entrance to the Amazon (Aguas Calientes)

MACHU PICCHU
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Click HERE for my google maps guide to Lima Restaurants

See ya next time @chibbqking