Eating BIG in Bogota

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- A Quick Trip to The Fridge

We made a somewhat impromptu visit to Bogota on our trip to Peru at the end of last year. Because there are no non-stop flights to Peru we had to make a layover and one of the options was Bogota. The airline allows you to stay in Bogota for two nights and we also had a voucher from American Express for a two night stay just about anywhere so we chose to check out Bogota and stay at the Four Seasons while doing so. We only had two nights but we arrived at the crack of dawn giving us two full days. But even still I found it hard to crack Bogota in such a short amount of time. It's probably the hardest city I've ever tried to tackle in terms of eating and seeing my way through it. The main reason for this was the short amount of time but it didn't help that the traffic here was about as bad as I've experienced. I had a bunch of local favorite type of places I wanted to go eat at but the uber rides were always 40-60 minutes one way and it just didn't make any sense to spend that much time in an uber when we had such a short time to begin with. The highlight of our quick visit was a quick trip up to the very top of the city. The first thing we did upon arrival was ride the cable car up to the top of Mount Monserrate which was a real sight to behold. But after that and a visit to the iconic fruit market we mostly kept to the area around the hotel which is filled with nightlife and and shopping. It took me a day to get my bearings straight but by the time they were all aligned it was time to go. So consider this a sneak peak of a future trip as I really started to get comfortable right as it was time to leave.  

Pics from Bogota
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Empanaditas de Pipian

Empanaditas De Pipián was high on my list of places to try and I lucked out in that there was an outlet a short walk from our hotel. This local chain specializes in Empanaditas De Pipián which are a classic Colombian street snack popular in Bogotá though their roots actually come from the southwest of the country in the region around Popayán. At their core, empanaditas de pipián are small, deep-fried corn pastries filled with a distinct mixture called pipián. The dough is made from corn (maize) and filled with a mix of mashed papa criolla (a small yellow Colombian potato), roasted peanuts, onion, tomato, and spices like achiote. They're a popular snack as they’re small and affordable and fried to order. We got a handful and noted how similar the taste was to hash brown but with a much deeper potato flavor.  

Empanaditas de Pipian at Empanaditas de Pipian
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Plaza de Mercado de Paloquemao

After an early morning trek up to the top of Monserrate Mountain we ubered over to the Plaza de Mercado de Paloquemao which was at the top my list as far as sightseeing. Plaza de Mercado de Paloquemao is the iconic food market in Bogotá. Fruit is the big draw and so I read visiting here is a full-on sensory experience and cultural snapshot of Colombia all under one roof. The colors and the smells and the sounds were similar to other markets I’ve visited in Latin America but the fruit vendor section was a sight to behold in terms of all the different options. We thought about hiring a guide but it’s not that big in terms of size and we really lucked out by randomly meeting a Colombian girl from North Carolina who was visiting family in Bogota. She noticed we were visitors and asked where we from and she happens to love Chicago so she took us around and showed us some of her favorite fruits to eat before taking us to her favorite place to eat when she comes back to Bogota. It’s a stall at the market called Jugos y Ensaladas Vero and it’s exactly the type of spot that makes a visit to Paloquemao special. It’s here where you can grab a seat next to a local and grab some of the freshest fruit juicesin the city. We tried a few kinds like we were sampling wines which was a fun experience you won’t find many other places. They also make great Colombian arepas with melted cheese and a wonderful corn flavor. Arrive early and make this stand your first breakfast in Bogota.

Arepas and Fresh Squeezed Juice at Jugos y Ensaladas Vero
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Diosa

Bogotá has a genuinely strong cafe culture, but it’s a little different from what you might expect given Colombia’s global coffee reputation. Colombia produces some of the world’s best coffee beans, yet for a long time those beans were exported and locals drank simpler, lower-grade coffee. But that’s changed especially in Bogotá where modern cafes are all the rage these days. Diosa Café is a low-key, design-forward café in Chapinero Alto that’s built around very chill vibes. I’m not a coffee drinker so the reason for our visit was to try some of the pastries including a very nice selection of arepas. 

Yucca Arepa at Diosa
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Afluente Restaurante

Afluente was the most interesting of the fast rising fine-dining spots in Bogotá right now. It’s a concept-driven restaurant built around Colombia’s páramo ecosystem—which is a pretty unique angle even in a city full of ambitious chefs. The Páramo is a high-altitude Andean ecosystem that basically acts as a natural water source for much of Colombia and the kitchen here explores how water, land, and ingredients are connected. Much of the product that the kitchen works with comes from páramo regions and small producers with  a strong focus on sustainability and regenerative sourcing. You know the drill, native ingredients mixed with modern techniques. Lots of local fruit, herbs, and locally grown potatoes made appearances in some visually stunning dishes. I was unfamiliar with much of it but that didn’t prevent me from enjoying each and every dish - the best meal we had in Bogota.

crab - citrus foam, granadilla, cuca cookie


shrimp - plantain, chuguas, squash


rice - shrimp, balu, tubers
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Humo Negro

Humo Negro is one of Bogotá’s pioneering modern restaurants. It’s a blend of fine dining with a relaxed and creative vibe. At its core, Humo Negro is a modern tasting-menu restaurant serving Colombian dishes with an izakaya influence. Japanese techniques are adopted in the form of grilling, raw prep, and precision plating with use of Colombian ingredients like Amazonian fish and local produce. There’s a strong emphasis on Smoke (Humo) and live fire cooking which ties into the name of the place. They do have a tasting menu but we went ala carte in an effort not to be stuck there all night after a long day of travel. Honestly I thought I would like this place more than I did. The plates were pretty but it felt like they were missing flavor. The best part of the meal was the first thing we ate in the form of a corn fritter taiyaki kind of fusion. It was a texturally delightful dish that didn’t skimp on flavor. The potato croquettes were soft and crisp and had a brininess to them from what was described as a seaweed based sofrito filling. The crudo del dia was pretty in appearance but it lacked a bit in flavor. I wanted to like a sticky rice with crab and shrimp dish but it was missing something.

Dinner at Humo de Negro
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Cactus

Cactus is the opposite of places like Humo Negro and Afluente. It’s neither trendy nor experimental. It’s a Bogotá classic, the kind of spot locals grow up going to and keep coming back to for decades on end. The design on the inside draws a thin line between a cheesy western themed restaurant and an actual old school spot as this place opened in 1977. The walls are lined with pictures of Texans from another era and old menus from diners in the States. It’s a popular lunch stop for the city’s politicians and business class. I watched it fill up quickly upon being seated shortly after opening. The menu here is a what's what of American grilling favorites like steak, ribs, wings. But it was a picture of the popular roast beef sandwich (and its location) that got me in. It’s a no frills version with freshly sliced rare beef in between a nice and sturdy sub style roll with a cup of au jus plus fries on the side. I could tell by the pictures this was going to be a good rendition of a rare roast beef sandwich but what I couldn’t see was the salt was lacking big time. Luckily it was a quick fix for the sandwich and fries. 

Roast Beef Sandwich at Cactus
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Obleas Bless

After lunch I took a stroll around the city and dipped into a few areas including a car free street that lasted for more than a few blocks. There were lots of interesting storefronts and stalls including this small one person stand where a friendly lady was making Obleas con Arequipe. Obleas are a thin wafer dessert commonly found in several Latin American countries, and Colombia in particular. It’s typically made up of two thin, round wafers filled with sweet ingredients such as Arequipe which is regional terminology for dulce de leche. 

Obleas con Arequipe
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El Tizconcito

Upon my return I decided to try tacos al pastor from at El Tizconcito. The chain from Mexico City lays claim to being the creator of the taco al pastor. I got two tacos but unfortunately I still have yet to have a great taco outside of Mexico and the USA to boot. The meat was barely charred and the salsas were made for a clientele that doesn’t like spicy food. The better bet is going to La Lucha Sangucheria a few stores down - it's a famous sandwich chain from Lima which I was headed too later this trip. 

Tacos al Pastor at El Tizconcito
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Bar Ruda

For our last meal in Bogota we met up with an old friend who’s been teaching there for more than a decade now. I came upon a newish spot from Chef Álvaro Clavijo - chef/owner of El Chato, which is ranked among Latin America’s best restaurants. It also happened to be a short walk from my friends house so it was the perfect call. Bar Ruda is the more casual, nightlife-driven project when compared to El Chato. It’s a bar with a creative kitchen where Chef Clavijo and his team dish out high-end, ingredient-driven dishes with a more relaxed and social vibe inside. The only thing that really annoys me about small plates is they’re usually served on small tables as was the case with Ruda. Nonetheless they put out nice plates of food starting with a simple but super good bowl of confit criolla potatoes. Growing up I was taught that the Irish are the world’s foremost potato heads but this trip showed me I wasn’t taught right. The best most intense tasting potatoes are found in South America. Aside from getting to catch up with an old friend a plate of crab ceviche was the best part of the meal. After that we walked over to a local bar and played a fun Colombian bar game called Tejo. A 500-year old tradition that involves throwing heavy metal discs (tejos) at a clay target packed with small, explosive gunpowder triangles called mechas. It's played in taverns across Colombia and the goal is to hit the target, cause an explosion, and score points while drinking beer. It was then and there I started vibing real hard with with Bogota but we had a flight to catch in the morning. Doh!

Papa criolla confitada suero costeño

tomato, cereza sambal de camaron y menta

Croquetas de morcilla, mayonesa de rocoto

ceviche de cangrejo y maiz tierno

Contramuslo de pollo, salsa de maíz

Cordero ahumado, babaganoush de berenjena
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Eating BIG in Lima (and Cusco) (2026)

Eating BIG in Panama City (2026)

Eating BIG in Cartegena (2019)

See ya next time @chibbqking

Eating BIG in Cartagena

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- Exploring Colombia's Caribbean Hub

Last March I got the chance to travel to Colombia to witness the marriage of a good friend. It was the perfect time as we were still in the Polar Vortex stages of winter. Cartagena would be the city where the wedding was taking place. It's the major port city of Colombia's Caribbean Coast. It's a historic city with tons of beauty both in the land and the people. With this being my first trip to South America I was very excited to check another country off and even better I got to do so with some longtime friends. If you're trying to figure out a warm place to visit this winter I would highly rec Cartagena to anyone looking for something a bit more substantial than the usual Caribbean winter destinations.

Sights from Cartagena (click pics to enhance)

Cartagena's tourism mostly revolves around the Old Town. Also known as the Walled City this is where most of the city's history can be traced back to. It's lined with beautiful colonial buildings and colorful homes and businesses. Most everything you read about as far as as hotels and restaurants will be located inside of the Walled City. Outside of it is more laid back as inside is filled with tourists and where theres tourists theres locals catering to said tourists. The street life within the Walled City is wonderful. This is where you'll comes across the city's famous fruit ladies. Do tip for pictures.

Sights from Cartagena

So what about the food? It's really good! Different from the rest of Colombia in that it's very influenced by Spanish, African, and indigenous cooking. Cartagena might not be the country's capital but it's probably Colombia's culinary gem. Like any other coastal cuisine it's heavy on fish. The tropical climate means you'll comes across some amazing fruits. These are not to be missed in juice form. Seriously the best thing going here might be the fruit. It could be reason enough to visit if you love good fruit as much as I do. Pretty much every spot in town makes some sort of amazing fruit drinks. The seafood was stellar. Outside of Lima this might be the best city in the world to eat ceviche.

 Sights from Cartagena

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La Cocina De Pepina

First meal in Cartagena was some cooking from Colombia’s Caribbean coast. An order of shrimp de aguacate (w/ crackers) was perfect on a hot and humid day. Not exactly soup weather but I had to try an order of the popular soup known as Mote de Queso as this place was said to make a great bowl. Made with a local type of yam called ñame and queso Costeño this is quintessential Colombian-Caribbean cooking. No it’s not the most instagramable food out there but I’m no @foodgod.

Colombian-Caribbean food at La Cocina De Pepina

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Restuarante La Mulata

Here's another typical Colombian-Caribbean type spot. It's run by a younger crowd but they dont try to change anything up as far as the food. We were here for the popular plates of African-Caribbean inspired dishes. An order of fried fish with plantains and brown rice was typical plato del caribe. 

Fried Fish at La Mulata

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La Paleteria

Paleta Popsicles are as popular as ever. As they should be. There's no limits to the flavors one can make with a paleta. Thus in heavy fruit growing countries like Colombia you can find some rarely seen flavors. Head to La Paleteria in the Old City when you need to cool down from the heavy heat. They have an array of flavors many of them made with fruits local to the region. We went three times.

Paletas at La Paleteria

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Hotel Boutique Casona del Colegio

My wife found us a fantastic place to stay. She likes to search around for newly opened properties as you can usually get a deal before the word gets out online and they raise their prices to match their tripadvisor score. We had one minor problem in that the AC wasn't at full strength one night and they insisted we come down for complimentary breakfast the next morning. We did and were treated to a bomb meal with local flair. This Colombian breakfast was full of starches featuring yuca, plantains, and an extra crispy golden piece of pork that cracked like cracklins. The hotel itself was beautiful and the staff was super helpful. I'd happily go back and if I did I'd gladly pay to start my day with this dish.

Colombian Breakfast at Hotel Boutique Casona del Colegio

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Quero Arepa

There would be quite a few Arepas this weekend. They even made an appearance as the late night snack at the wedding we attended. After a nice night of rum running I met a buddy at this local Arepa shop that gets lots of love online. It's a cute little space with a colorful vibe in both decor and the food. Colombians and Venezuelans will go to war over who's arepas are better. I believe these were a mixture of the two styles which don't sway all that differently save for maybe the fillings. I went with a pretty traditional Venezuelan combo of shredded beef, black beans, bananas, and cheese. It was really good but even better were the fresh pressed juices. I had a couple of those and felt great.

Arepa at Quero Arepa

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El Marranito Feliz

We came across this little street side grilling setup and stopped for sausage. That's what Chicago people do. This spot wasn't on my radar but the little cartoon of the pig paired with those sausages on the grill made it a must stop for us. My friend got a mixed sausage platter served in bite size pieces with some terrific dipping sauces. Don't hesitate to try the local spots like this. They stay busy.

Streetside Sausage

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El Boliche Cebicheria

Cartagena has two popular ceviche spots and this is the less popular of the two. We came here as we were able to get a table for eight people pretty much upon arrival. The other place will most always have a line to get in. We never made it over to La Cevicheria but I hear both spots are great. El Boliche most certainly is. We had a lovely little lunch with each dish popping with the fresh flavors that make ceviche a wonderful snack in warm weather cities like this. Don’t miss the smoke steamed coconut fish dish which was one of the most unique things I ate on the trip. The crab empanadas are supposed to be really good but they had sold out by the time we were there. But all the ceviches and also the octopus and potatoes dish were great. You can end up trying a bunch as they're tapas sized.

Meal at El Boliche Cebicheria

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La Perla

Another lunch in the Old City where it can feel like you’re walking under a broiler in the oven. So we needed something super fresh and called on a local Peruvian chef to supply us with this. An order of Nikkei style tiradito was phenomenal. Nikkei cuisine being the fusion of Japanese traditions with Peruvian ingredients. Tiradito being one of the most popular dishes in Nikkei cooking. It’s thin sliced sashimi that’s sauced upon ordering and then served immediately. Consider it the lesser known sibling of ceviche. Speaking of which an order of traditional Peruvian ceviche was exactly what one can expect from a well trained Peruvian chef with a restaurant in a coastal town. Some passion fruit juice rounded out one of the freshest lunches I’ve had in a minute. La Perla is a terrific choice.

Tiradito and Ceviche at La Perla

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Carmen Restaurante

My wife wanted to check this contemporary restaurant for lunch. It's located in a beautiful colonial era home and there's quite a few options for how you want to enjoy your meal. They have a beautiful cocktail bar as well as an indoor air conditioned dining room and a courtyard in the middle of it all. The service was really nice and the menu had quite a few tempting options. We settled on a perfectly cooked piece of octopus with a pistachio aji sauce over a griddle cooked piece of yuca. Even better was the candied duck confit. If you're looking for a nice white tablecloth type meal this is it.

Lunch at Carmen Restaurante

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Cocteleria El Buen Sabor

Right outside of the Old City you'll find a street full of food vendors. Many of them selling the type of ceviche locals tend to gravitate more towards. This is a super traditional style with ketchup and cocktail sauce being the focal points along with whatever seafood you choose. It's always served with saltines on the side which work great with a scoop of the ceviche. Nothing fancy here as you can see from the ceviche which comes served in a styrofoam cup. But I like it. It's a great snack on a hot day.

Ceviche at Cocteleria El Buen Sabor

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Sierva Maria

There's no single dish more associated with Cartagena than the Arepa con Huevo. This Caribbean-Colombian dish is commonly sold on the streets and they can be found all over town. They even made an appearance as the late nite snack at the wedding I was at. I liked them so much I went to seek one out the next morning. Sierva Maria is one of the common mentions for the best place to get Arepa Con Huevo. I had walked to try a famous street stall but I never did find it. That said as my buddy who lives in Colombia told me it's all about finding a spot where they're frying them fresh. That's the case at Sierva Maria where they're delivered piping hot. Corncakes are fried in oil and then split and an egg is cooked inside. If you order them con carne they're stuffed with ground beef. This was the most memorable bite of the trip. I've been aching for one since returning. The sauces (tomato salsa / sour cream) served on side were both instrumental in the overall satisfaction of this dish.

Arepa Con Huevo at Sierva Maria

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Harvey Restaurante

Away from the Old City over by the beaches and big hotels there's a strip full of spots. It feels a bit touristy and a little like South Beach but there's plenty of local spots. It's not like the Colombians don't go to the beach. After what was a long night of wedding celebration (they go all night in Colombia) me and some friends took off for a hangover feast. I knew I wanted to get a hot dog while in Colombia as they take them very seriously and this Harvey Restuarante spot popped up in my search. The menu had the feel of a TGI-Friday's if it was a concept originally founded in South America. The menu was loaded with pictured options. This spread was just what the doctor ordered after a long night of celebration. You’re looking at a Colombian Hot Dog, Salchipapas, Seafood Fried Rice, and Fried Plantains. What’s on the perro hawaiano (hot dog) you ask? Salsa rosado, aji sauce, pineapple sauce, onions, guava paste, shoestring potatoes, bacon, cheese, maybe more. BOMB!

Food Spread at Harvey Restaurante

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Kiosk #7 Alejandro

We found some chairs and an empty table at the beach. We sat and took in some sun as well as some seafood. There were quite a few food stands serving different dishes on the sand. Most of them offering whole fried fish. A handful of them were recognizable but Sawfish was one we were unsure of as far as ever trying it. We got one of them and watched as the lady chopped its head off seasoned it up and dropped it into a pot where it fried with some garlic and onions. The fish was like mackerel.

Fried Sawfish in Cartagena

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Submarino Ceviche

Here was another locals spot for ceviche in the beach area. Sitting on an island between a few streets and some parks is this little walk in shop slanging all the ceviches. The owner is obviously a big baseball fan as there's MLB stuff throughout the store. We tried the mixto which is a little bit of everything made fresh and served with the standard saltine crackers. Again a great snack.

Ceviche at Submarino Ceviche

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Restaurante El Muelle

I found this spot sitting on the water at what's virtually the end of the popular hotel and restaurant road at Laguito Beach. People kept mentioning a whole prawn in curry dish and it looked great so me and a group of friends went over to eat dinner here. It's a large space that caters to tourists and locals alike. You can hang on the beach or under the restaurants two floor canopies. But they were out of the curry shrimps. Major buzzkill though the beautiful sunset and time spent with friends healed that pretty quickly. We tried a bunch of seafood stuff and none of it was bad. We liked it for what it was.

Seafood spread at El Muelle

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Plaza de la Trinidad

Our last night in town was a Sunday but if you had to guess from the atmosphere you may have said Saturday. It seemed like locals like to end their weekends by hanging out in some of the city's major squares where people eat, dance, and laugh into the evening. I came upon a party at Plaza de La Trinidad and was sucked in by the energy and smells of meats cooking on the grills that surrounded the park. There was a little stage where a group of people were dancing. They were being joined by a huge crowd on the square that were mimicking their every move. Check out my instagram videos @chibbqking to get a better idea of this public party that everyone is invited to. Street food vendors are lined up and the options of burgers seemed to be biggest. At least 4/5 carts had a large number of patties grilling away while the vendors piled them with trimmings when ready. Like the hot dogs the burgers in Colombia come loaded with toppings. Delicious after a few cold ones from a beer vendor.

Street Food Vendor at Plaza de la Trinidad

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La Esquina Del Pandebono

On the morning of our departure I got up early and took one last walk around the Old Town, and then one last shower before checking out. La Esquina Del Pandebona is a 24 hour establishment that sells Colombian pastries and juices/smoothies. It was the perfect place to hit up before the airport in that I was able to get one last extra refreshing fresh squeezed juice and also some wonderful buñuelos aka Colombian cheese fritters. Shitty pics but Colombia has great pastries and none more pleasing than buñuelos fresh from the oven. Head here whenever as they make a great snack any time of day. I enjoyed them on the plane. That's it for this trip. Thanks again Brad, Silvana, + families.

Display Case at La Esquina Del Pandebono

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Note: To find the locations of all the spots featured in this post, as well as places I didn't make it to, please click HERE for my google maps guide to Cartagena.

See ya next time @chibbqking