Roadfood in Kentucky

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties 
- Pit Stops for Roadfood in Kentucky

Kentucky has always been an interesting place to me. So much so that I have a huge google maps guide of Roadfood to seek out throughout the state. I've always wanted to take a road trip through there and explore the region. I've never been able to do one solely focused on the Bluegrass State but I have driven through there more than a few times over the years and whenever I do I always find interesting spots to stop at. Here's five from two separate trips I took to North Carolina and Florida. 

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150 Quick Stop (Bardstown)

This gas station / convenience store is home to some of the best breakfast sausage in the world. You'll find it in Bardstown which is in the heart of the states bourbon producing territory (about an hour southeast of Louisville). I was turned onto to this top sausage by Chef Newman Miller, a friend of mine who lives in the area. Actually he and the sausage at 150 Quick Stop made an appearance in an article at Food & Wine Magazine which you can see HERE. The recipe to this sausage might've been won in a local poker game, or lost depending on how you look at it. So the story goes the owners of the truck stop beat a local butcher in a poker game and won his breakfast sausage recipe in doing so. It's a spicy sage forward blend with plenty of red pepper flakes found throughout. If you show up early enough you can try it in a biscuit - they make up to 600 a day. I arrived around 11a on my visit and it was already too late to score a sausage biscuit but they also sell it raw in two sizes and since we were on our way to Carolina for a week of outdoor stuff I made sure to grab some for the AirBNB. It really is the best damn sausage I've ever had as far as the breakfast variety goes. Oh so f'ing good. 

Breakfast Sausage from 150 Quick Stop 
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Wilson's Pool Room (Versailles) 

Ever had Pool Hall Grub in Kentucky? Oh that's a thing. Handfuls of pool halls are hanging on around the Bluegrass State and each one serves up some form of locally loved grub be it chili dogs, burgers, or both. Below is the Willie Burger from an old pool hall in Bourbon Country. Nothing special as far as the prep or dressing of it (fresh ball of beef lightly smashed with lettuce, tomato, mayo, onion) but it was one of the best burgers I had that year. I had to pass on the country ham sandwich bc this was a second lunch so I limited myself to just one choice for the sake of this massive food database that I continue to build. I hope to visit a few more Kentucky pool halls at some point before they all close. 

Willie Burger at Wilson's Pool Room 
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Tortilleria Y Taqueria Ramirez (Lexington)

If you ever find yourself in or passing through Lexington (aka Mexington) you got to stop at Taqueria Ramirez. There's a sizeable Mexican population in both Lexington and Louisville and lots of taco spots too. If you only have time for one of them I suggest this family owned taqueria that serves up the best tacos in the U.S. I've ever had outside of California, Texas, or Illinois. Upon entry you're greeted by a big assembly line production of corn tortillas made with Weisenberger Mills corn from Midway Kentucky - a place famous for its grits. The fillings include options like cabeza, lengua and barbacoa with each of them being as good as the last. This is a real blue blood type of taqueria.  

Tacos at Tortilleria Y Taqueria Ramirez 
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G&E Burgers (Williamsburg)

As regular readers know I'm a big fan of regional food and an even bigger fan of hyper local dishes like the Eastern Kentucky Chili Bun. A chili bun is simply a chili dog without the wiener. It's said that these first started to appear at pool halls in the area around the 1950's. They made for a cheap and tasty snack for the local miners and others who hung out at these pool halls after work and what not. I had plans to stop at a different spot but it was suddenly closed due to the passing of the owner. Luckily G&E Burgers was just down the block which gives you an idea of the chili buns prevalence in these parts. If you grew up or lived anywhere near Appalachia you likely have a favorite spot for one and or an old family recipe. The bun is dressed with mustard and onions before the sauce goes on. The chili here is a well spiced meat forward blend with minimal tomato detected. It wasn't spicy but had plenty of buzz. Also of note was a side of "soup beans" that come with the chili bun meal. Pintos are a big part of the Appalachian diet and soup beans as they're called are commonly served with cornbread, greens, and potatoes and are considered both a main course and also a side dish.

Chili Bun at G&E Burgers
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Dovie's (Tompkinsville)

Our final stop is one of the most interesting stops you can make on the Roadfood circuit - but it's a bit out of the way from any major highway so it's also somewhat elusive. Dovie's is home to some killer burgers (literally). They've been frying up balls of beef since 1940. When I first found this place searching through food stops in random Kentucky towns I thought I came across a relatively unknown place but then I checked the Insta check-ins and saw that a few fellow burger connoisseurs had already been here (@motzburger, @burgerbeast, @jcstrutz). So I knew it would be a fun one and it was. Particularly made so by the handful of local ladies who run the place. It's quite a riot inside as far as the atmosphere goes and quite the heart stopper on the burger and baloney front. I ordered mine "unsqueezed" which means they don't release any of the oil that the beef soaks up while frying. It wasn't the best burger I've ever had but it was one of the best roadfood experiences I've partaken in. 

Cheeseburger at Dovie's

Baloney Sandwich at Dovie's 
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Roadfood in Kentucky (2015)

Stopping in at Three Paducah Favorites (2019)

Eating BIG in Louisville (over the years)

See ya next time @chibbqking 

Stopping in at three Paducah Favorites

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties 
- Where to eat in Paducah 

Late last Fall I took a ride down to Southern Illinois to visit an old friend. We spent three days canvassing the area checking out all that was worth seeing as far as sights and stuff. One of those days we rode over the Ohio River into Paducah Kentucky. I was surprised by how artsy the downtown area was. It was really well upkept and a fun little spot to check out. Of course our main reason for visiting was Roadfood. There were three spots on my radar that I really wanted to try. Shall we?

Sights from Paducah, KY

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Starne's Barbecue

It doesn't get the same amount of love as Texas BBQ or North Carolina style 'cue but Kentucky has a great BBQ culture. It's one that runs deep with no specific set of traditions or rules. There's a few different pockets where the specialty might be totally different than elsewhere. While it’s true Western KY BBQ is usually associated with mutton that’s mostly in Henderson and Owensboro. Elsewhere around there you’ll find lots of different smoked meat options but chopped pork is king.

a peek inside (and out)

Whole shoulders are smoked for 12 hours at Starnes. The same way they were on Day 1 back in 1955. The signature dish here and elsewhere in the area consists of chopped pork going in between two buttered pieces of toast and then into a panini press. So it’s a toasted barbecue sandwich. But the star is the vinegar based bbq sauce that packs real deal heat. Kentucky doesn’t get mentioned as much as other states when it comes to their ‘que but they probably should be. Lots of old school spots. Especially in the Paducah area. I screwed up timing on two so we didn't get to eat elsewhere as far as BBQ on this trip goes. However I stopped into an old Drive-In selling BBQ sandwiches on a previous trip through Paducah. You can check out that stop and others in KY by clicking HERE.

BBQ Sandwich at Starne's

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Doe's Eat Place

No way I was going to be in Paducah and not do some Delta Tamales at Doe’s Eat Place. The Mississippi Delta institution has been serving the people of Greenville since 1941. In fact at first it was a Black people only joint where whites had to enter through the back door. It’s a long time spot on my hit list. Said to be one of the country’s best steakhouse experiences. Though it’s those tamales I yearn for. Easily one of my favorite regional snacks in America. No one knows the exact origin but the cornmeal tubes are stuffed with spicy ground beef and then simmered in water that’s also spiced. A product of the regions African Americans who almost certainly mingled with Mexicans but no one knows exactly how they came to be. We took a roadtrip through the Delta and did a tamale tour a while back and it was a trip I’ll never forget. So while Paducah isn’t in the Delta these tamales were more than enough to evoke flashbacks to that trip. Turns out this location is owned by a descendant of Big Doe the founding father who immigrated to Mississippi from Sicily. Try them with some chili!

Delta Tamales at Doe's Eat Place

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Just Hamburgers

Here's one that really intrigued me. Name sound familiar? No? That's ok you're not as obsessive as me. As soon as I found this place I was wondering whether or not they had any relationship to Just Hamburgers in Paxton, IL. The Central IL burger shop is one of my home states best burgers. As soon as we pulled up to here I had a pretty good feeling there was some sort of connection. They have the same sign and logo after all. The guys working the grill here were stoner type high school kids and if I'm being honest my burger came out rather fast. That said they're also fast up in Paxton and that's bc these are Central Illinois style smashed burgers. Small balls of beef are smashed until crispy and it happens pretty quickly. I ended up calling the Illinois location to ask if there was a connection and while the guy on the other line couldn't give me exact details he said the Kentucky spot is owned by a relative of the Paxton location. Good burger but not quite as good as the IL location.

Cheeseburger at Just Hamburgers 

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See ya next time @chibbqking

Eating BIG in Louisville Pt. 4

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties

- Louisville: Better Than Ever

I had a chance to make some money down in Louisville this past September. We had the opportunity to vend at a couple of sold out music shows and decided to make a little vacation of it while earning some cash. We would end up driving down one weekend and working the fest and then leaving everything we brought down there and returning the following wkd for another show. It worked out quite well. Not just the logistics but the time spent in Louisville which remains one of my favorite little cities in the country. To me it's the start of the South. That said there's tons of Northerners who've made it their home. Folks from Chicago, Indianapolis etc. So it's got a really nice vibe from both the people and also it's surroundings. On my watch it's one of the best small dining cities in the States. As far as a city it's size goes they dont get much better when it comes to the food options found around town. I challenge you to find a site with more info than this one when it comes to food in Louisville.

(For Previous Reports Click HERE)

Old Louisville

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 Con Huevos

I'd considered visiting this cute little Mexican breakfast shack on previous visits but never got around to doing so. This trip I finally did and all I can say is shame on me it took so long to do so. This was one of a few highlights this time around. Con Huevos is owned by a local family who emigrated to Louisville from Mexico. This is the only restaurant in the region that focuses solely on Mexican breakfast/brunch. It's a small space and the place is very popular so either arrive early or later. We went in on the first wkd and ended up having to take a rain check since it was so busy. But the food looked so good I made it a point to return early the next day. The menu is filled with delicious items.

 Tres Leches Pancakes

One of my buddies opted for the tres leches pancakes which was without a doubt the sexiest plate of pancakes I've ever seen. Made with three types of milk and topped with fresh fruit and whip cream this was one of those dishes that could make me change my mind about being a sweets guy in the AM. As delicious as my taste of the pancakes was the signature Huevos Rancheros plate I ate was out of this world good. I was so mad at myself that this was the first time I was eating here. Mexican breakfast doesn't get the love it should. But then again I dont know many places making plates as fresh and tasty as this place. It's the type of spot that would do well anywhere. Mexico included.

Huevos Rancheros - Corn tortilla, homemade salsa ranchera, refried black beans, queso fresco, avocado mousse, cilantro, green garnish & sunny eggs - at Con Huevos 

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Lox

The folks behind Rye also started to do breakfast this past summer. It's served in the same building as Rye but they call themselves Lox during the morning and early afternoon hours. The menu prefects the name with a handful of options made with salmon. I really liked this place and everything we tried.

Bagel with Lox

Nothing was past $11 on the menu and everything was really well made. It was very casual in that you just walk in and up to the counter to place your order. Pay and they give you a number to find you when your food is ready. It was a perfect day so we enjoyed some sun at the tables outside.

Salmon Tartare with Housemade Chips

A plate of salmon tartare with housemade chips was terrific. The egg broke into a perfect drizzle of yolk and the chips were the perfect replacement for a fork. I could eat that for breakfast on the daily. Another plate I could eat regularly is the lox and eggs. Served with a couple lightly toasted pieces of rye it had me wondering why I've never made a breakfast sandwich with the ingredients on the plate.

Lox and Eggs at Lox

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MozzaPi

Ok is everyone paying attention? I want you to go grab a piece of paper and a pen or get your phone and open the notes. When you get them I want you to write/type "MozzaPI in Louisville" down. Why am I having you do this? Because this place cant be missed. It just opened in it's brick & mortar space not to long before our trip and even though it's out there it's well worth the ride. Heck it might be worth the drive from Chicago. Sitting in a restored barn this was one of the nicest spots I've had the pleasure of dining in. On a nice day it's the type of place you could hang out at for the whole afternoon. MozzaPi doesn't just do pizza. They mill their own flour for everything from bread to cookies. But its the pizza that put their name out there. It started off as a mobile unit at events.

a peek inside

After walking in you just go up to the counter and place your order. The young lady at the register had mentioned how the meatball sandwich was her favorite sandwich ever. Tempting though at first I just stuck with the pizza. After a few minutes I decided what the hell if she says it great I'll get one too. best decison I made since I asked my wife to marry me. This was indeed the best meatball sandwich I've ever ate. So good that the meatballs, which were perfect, were an afterthought. The bread was good as it gets. Never had better for this particular sandwich. Still thinking about this one.

Meatball Sandwich at MozzPi

Seeing as how good the sandwich was I almost forgot the reason we came here. It was the pizza that made this place what it is. But could it even come close to the deliciousness of that sandwich? Some hoe, some way it did. This was wood fired pizza perfection. I remember thinking to myself how perfect it was as I started rattling off spots in my mind that I thought it was better than. The pizza menu changes up but this once with pepperoni, giardinieria, and a few type of cheese was must order if you see it on the menu. On top of all this I also ate a fantastic corn cookie and bought some grits milled on-site to use in my own kitchen. It's only a matter of time until this place is nationally recognized.

Pizza at MozzaPi

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Joella's Hot Chicken

Seeing as how Louisville is only a couple hours North of Nashville on I-65 Hot Chicken has made it's way there. There's two popular spots that have opened up in the past couple years and Joella's is one of them. I'll be honest, hot chicken isn't my favorite regional eat. I like it but dont love it like I do so many other things. But the taste does come now and then and it did while in Louisville. Joella's makes a pretty good hot chicken that compares to other spots but like other spots I found the sides to be the best thing going. Joella's has a few locations in Kentucky and one in Indianapolis.

Hot Chicken at Joella's Hot Chicken

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 Yummy Pollo

Louisville has some good options when it comes to international eats. Like most other places you need to drift away from downtown towards outskirts of town to find them. Look in strip malls for spots like Yummy Pollo. This place has nothing but rave reviews and the fact they're cooking their chicken over live charcoal is all I need to know before I decide to go. Peruvians have mastered the art of charcoal chicken which they cook using a rotisserie. Pic'd below is the machine Yummy Pollo uses.

Rotisserie at Yummy Pollo

This place isn't far from Churchill Downs which we visited before our visit. It was a beautiful Friday at the track but unfortunately the food selection there is bare. I highly recommend stopping here before or after should you take in a day at the races. The Peruvian chicken was seasoned perfectly.

1/4 Chicken with Yucca Fries and Cilantro Rice at Yummy Pollo

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MexA Steak Tacos

Always on the prowl for the best tacos in whatever town I'm in I came upon this new place. It's owned by a lady from Northern Mexico who's husbands job brought them to Louisville. She wanted to bring the tastes of Mexico with her and decided to open up a spot dedicated to the different regional styles of steak tacos found all over Mexico. The menu showcases different steak taco options from cities such as Monterrey, Mexico City, and Sonora. Having fallen in love with the Costra (crispy cheese) style taco in Mexico City I went for one of those. The idea here is they cook a handful of cheese on the flattop until crispy and then fold it over some steak before it all goes into a handmade corn tortilla. My only complaint about this place was I wish they cooked the steak over a live fire.

The Crunchy Cheese Taco at MexA Steak Tacos

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Galaxie Bar

Over on Market street (NuLu) there always seems to be new places popping up. I read about Galaxie Bar when it opened and had it in the back of mind for the next time I was in town. This place can best be described as a far out hipster bar brought to Louisville by the team behind Rye on Market. The place is colorful and has DJ's spinning music etc. But in it's heart of heart's it's just a neighborhood place in an area where most people dont live. I liked it. Especially on a hot summer day with all sorts of festivals happening around town. The food blends Mexican, Mediterranean, Indian etc. in the form of Wakatakas. Little flat breads with a variety of international toppings that you eat like a taco. I tried the Baja Fish version and it was like a roti with the fillings of a Baja fish taco. Good bar food.

Baja Fish Wakataka at Galaxie Bar

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 Back Deck Bar-B-Que

Upon our arrival in town the first trip in we needed to meet the others at the tent and help set up. So instead of driving off somewhere we just decided on a whim to try this food truck serving BBQ when we pulled up next to it at a red light. It was parked near a hospital so I assume they setup there regularly during lunch hours. Typical stuff on offer but a few thing were out as lunch was winding down. I got a pulled pork sandwich and it came with a wing on the side. Not bad but I wish there was more smoke flavor in the meats. Louisville has lots of good things going for it but BBQ isn't one.

Pulled Pork Sandwich at Wing at Back Deck Bar-B-Que

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River Road BBQ

Roadfood in Kentucky

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties 
- Bites of the Bluegrass State 

Stopped into some classic Kentucky roadfood type spots on my way down to Nashville and then back to Chicago. Got four more for my database. Plus I have another spot from a different trip. Enjoy.
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Laha's Red Castle Hamburgers

Hodgensville, KY

This old school slider shop has been on my list for a minute. I've tried to go a couple times while down in Louisville but it's closed on Sunday's and that was always the day I had the opportunity to take the hour drive south. After some high praise from a friend of the food trail I wanted to get there even more. This trip would be my chance. There's not much online but according to a sign inside they've been there since 1934.

a peek inside

There's only about 8 seats at the counter and so much grill space however because the little balls of smashed beef cook fast they get them out quick. I'll tell you what, Mr. Miller wasn't f-ing around when he said this place might be the best restaurant in the state. Without a doubt a Top Ten all-time burger in my book, which has 100's and 100's of chapters. I have no idea what the secret is to these amazing treats similar in size of a McDonald's cheeseburger but I know there's something special about them. I've wanted more since I finished off the order of two I convinced myself to stick with and not order any more than. Lesson learned.

Cheeseburgers for the Record Book

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Harper's Catfish

Scottsville, KY

Using my best road friend google I searched out some popular catfishes houses in Kentucky and came across a few that were either within a short ride from Nashville or not too far off of the route there. Stopping at Harper's en route down meant an extra 25 minutes added onto and a route that took us through some backroads. But my saying has always been "gotta go while I'm near there." A sign greets you from the side of a backroad and then instructs you to turn down a dirtroad where the shack awaits your order. I was ten times more uncomfortable here than I've ever been at any bulletproof glass protected establishment in Chicago. I'm a city boy and this was country to the core. I ordered a platter of catfish with home fries to take for the ride. The little catfish bites were perfectly coated with a light cornmeal crust but they must've been fried and held because they were room temp. The home fries were hot and all of it was damn good I just wish it was all served to-order.

Catfish Platter with Home Fries

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Ferrell's Snappy Service

Hopkinsville, KY

Another classic Hamburger Americana shop long on my list. I wasn't sure I'd ever get here and the only reason I did was because I decided to take the US-41 route that takes you back in whats almost a straight shot to Chicago. It's actually about 10 minutes quicker. According to Google maps anyway.

a peek inside

Full House on this Memorial Day visit and the wait would be loooong. The lady running the grill must've been approaching her one millionth burger made and her grill game was slowing down a bit but it would all work out. There's conflicting numbers about when Ferrell's opened with both 1929 and also 1937 being mentioned. There's another location up the highway in Madisonville and I guess the now gone original was in Owensboro so my guess is that this location has been around since 1937 and the original debuted in 1929. I cant confirm if the awesome lady working the grill has been there since day one but she got the job done.

In Action

The menu here is pretty damn simple. Hamburgers, Hot Dogs, Chili, and Chips. No fries. I ordered a cup of chili which I ate the next day and was pleasantly surprised by. It looked like it was going to be a classic heavy tomato Midwest style recipe but it had a unique flavor to it and maybe one or two beans. It wasn't spicy but it was deep in chili spice. Very interesting.

Cup of Chili

The burgers are the big deal here. As they should be. While not quite on the same level of addictiveness as Laha's these were a near flawless example of the classic 30's style hamburger. Onions are served raw and I'm probably a little more partial to grilled but these babies below, along with the architecture and atmosphere, brought me memories of the Motor City. Ferrell's is an institution. A 24 hour one.

Cheeseburgers

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Harned's Drive-In

Paducah, KY

I f'ed up while plugging in the address from Ferrell's. I just put Chicago as the destination I was going to decide where to stop in the IN/KY border area near Evansville when I got near. I was thinking fried chicken in Henderson but it took me back to one of the main highways and I was a good 30 minutes out of the way upon realizing this so I just had to go with the flow. I google searched 'Paducah Kentucky' for some food stops and found a Doe's Eat Place via the Mississippi Delta but couldn't get an answer on the phone from them so there would be no bundle of hot tamales. Instead I got bbq.

Menu on the Wall Outside

Harned's has been around since 1955 and they're still a real deal drive-in. No girls on skates but they do come up to your car to take your order. There is no inside. As you can see up above the menu is small with BBQ Pork and Ham joining burgers, Hoagies, Chili, and Chuckwagon sandwiches.

Smokehouse in Use

There was smoke in the air and a circle of cars parked around the place so I saw these as good signs and they were. The smoked pork was hunks of lightly smoked meat topped with your choice of sauce in preference of heat. The hot was almost a dry rub of vinegar and chili powder that looked unappealing but tasted just fine. The baked beans were just ok while the potato salad was classic in a very good way.

Bar-B-Que Plate

Best thing here though was the ham sandwich. Served on toasted bread with your choice of sauce it was an excellent sandwich. You don't see bbq smoked ham everywhere and thats too bad because this was a winner.

BBQ Ham Sandwich

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Doodles

Lexington, KY

Bonus Stop! This one was made on a trip to Asheville last year. We stopped in Lexington, KY for the night and woke up hungry. A little searching around revealed this popular Creole style breakfast stop with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. It was a gorgeous day so we took a seat on the patio outside and started off with an order of Beignets. Not to the level of Cafe Du Monde but good.

Beignets to Start

The menu item from here that most caught my eye was the shrimp and grits. Something I cant really find up north here in Chicago, I always have to make my own when the taste for a bowl comes calling. Here they make theirs with large, tail-on shrimp resting on a bed of cheesy Weisenberger Millgrits, smothered in tomato gravy with a dollop of homemade green onion remoulade. Bits of bacon were also scattered in. Not the best bowl I've ever had but way better than anything up here.

Shrimp and Grits

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Laha's Red Castle Hamburgers
21 Lincoln Square
Hodgenville, KY 42748
(270) 358-9201

Harper's Catfish
3085 Old Gallatin Rd,
Scottsville, KY 42164
(270) 622-7557

Ferrell's Snappy Service
1001 S Main St
Hopkinsville, KY 42240
(270) 886-1445

Harned's Drive-In
4421 Clarks River Rd
Paducah, KY 42003
(270) 898-3164

Doodles
262 N Limestone
Lexington, KY 40507
(859) 317-8507