Roadfood in Georgia

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties 
- Pit Stops in The Peach State

It’s a busy time in the U.S.A right now as we host the World Cup on the cusp of our 250th birthday coming up and with that I have a post that that fits in perfectly at this time. If you’re on Twitter or “X” as the right wingers call it you’ve probably heard of Freddy from Germany (@FreddyLA7). If not he's a German soccer fan who “unexpectedly” became one of the stories of the 2026 FIFA World Cup. He’s gained hundreds of thousands of followers while documenting a road trip across the U.S. with his buddies while following Germany's World Cup matches. His posts feature enthusiastic reactions to American culture: everything from Waffle House and Buc-ee's to college football stadiums, Walmart, and our many Main Streets. It’s mostly harmless but to many of us it feels fabricated. Why are Freddy and his friends only going to corporate places as far as food goes? It feels like Freddy is a plant made to make Americans fall back in love with America. Some think it’s a psyop by our government and others think it’s an American taking advantage of the fact you can make money on X when your posts go viral. Not once have they boosted some random small town diner or a local and regionally loved eatery - it’s always places like Taco Bell and Wendy’s. To me it feels a bit off bc of that though it’s totally possible he's just a dumb European tourist. I say so bc to get a true taste for America you have to stop at the mom and pop Roadfood establishments like we’re going to visit today. The American South is flooded with these type of spots. We’re going to visit ten places in Georgia that Freddy and his friends should’ve stopped at for a real taste of America. For those of you wondering “Why Georgia?” it's because I cruise through the Peach State every year I drive to or from South Florida. 

Welcome to Georgia
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The Big Biscuit Barn (Rossville)

We’ll start north and work our way south though most of the spots featured in this post are south of Atlanta with The Big Biscuit Barn in Rossville being the exception (it’s two hours north). Believe it or not, legit biscuits aren’t regularly found in the south. It takes some digging to find the good stuff. But the area up here near the Georgia and Tennessee state line has quite a few spots making biscuits from scratch. We stopped at the Big Biscuit Barn for a quick and satisfying breakfast one morning. I’m not going to pretend I’m an expert in southern biscuits but this would easily be the best biscuit in Chicago - and it would be one of the cheaper breakfast sandwiches in the city too ($4.50 each). 

BEC Biscuit at Biscuit Farm
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Fresh Air Barbecue (Jackson)

Next stop up is the most legendary bbq stop in Georgia and one of the most historic bbq joints in the south. Fresh Air Barbecue is located in Butts County about an hour southeast of Atlanta. Established in 1929, it's recognized as the oldest continuously operating pit-cooked barbecue restaurant in Georgia that remains in it's original location. No modern barbecue trends here. Instead, it has stayed true to a very traditional central Georgia style bbq featuring chopped pork cooked slowly over hickory and oak until tender, then finely chopped. The sauce is thin, tangy, and vinegar-forward, with a mild tomato base and their famous Brunswick stew is made from a long-standing family recipe and is a favorite alongside the barbecue. For those unfamiliar, Brunswick stew is a thick, slow-simmered Southern stew associated with Georgia and Virginia. It’s typically made with shredded pork and or chicken plus tomatoes, lima beans, corn, potatoes, and onions, in a flavorful broth seasoned with bbq sauce, Worcestershire sauce, black pepper, and spices. It's often served alongside barbecue and is a staple at Fresh Air Barbecue. As far as old school in barbecue goes this is about as OG as it gets. The dining room feels like a flashback to summer camp and the lights never go off in the pit room as there’s always meat being smoked since they open at 8a daily. Breakfast hits different down south! 

Chopped Pork and Brunswick Stew at Fresh Air Barbecue
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Nu-Way Weiners (Macon)

The South is rich with old school hot dog stands serving cheap wieners loaded with chili. Nu-Way Weiners is a Central Georgia institution and one of America's oldest continuously operating hot dog chains. It was founded in 1916 in Macon by Greek immigrant James Mallis, same year Nathan's Famous opened in New York. Nu-Way is known for its unique take on the classic Coney-style hot dog starting with bright red beef-and-pork frankfurters grilled on a flat-top and topped with secret chili sauce, mustard, and diced onions. Order them "all the way," and they add their signature creamy slaw. As far as the spelling: "Weiners" is technically a misspelling of "wieners." According to the company, a sign painter made the mistake in the 1930s and the owners decided to keep it because they thought changing it would bring bad luck. The spelling has become part of the brand's identity. 

Hot Dogs at Nu-Way Weiners
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Danny's Melon Shed (Cordele)

If you find yourself traveling along I-75 in Georgia, the town of Cordele makes for a great pit stop. Cordele sits on the edge of Crisp County and is considered “The Watermelon Capital of the World” as it’s consistently one of the top watermelon producing areas in the U.S. The region’s sandy soil, long hot summers, and irrigation access make it an ideal place for growing melons. At peak season, farms in the area ship well over 100 million watermelons a year to markets across the country. We stopped in at Danny’s Melon Shed. This roadside produce operation in Cordele, sits in the heart of watermelon country. It’s not a tourist attraction in the polished sense as it’s more of a working produce shed and melon brokerage spot tied directly into the local farming and shipping scene around the Cordele State Farmers Market. Picture loads of Semi-trucks, pallets, and stacked bins of melons during summer. Occasionally they’ll have a small retail stand where you can grab a watermelon off the load. On this visit they had red and yellow watermelons and they were as sweet and juicy as I've come across. 

Melons at Danny's Melon Shed
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Cordele Recreation Parlor (Cordele)

The Cordele Recreation Parlor is one of those classic Southern institutions that feels stuck in time. Located in downtown Cordele, it opened in 1939 as a combo pool hall and lunch counter, and for generations locals have simply called it "the Pool Room." The signature order here depends on just how hungry you are. For some a chili dog or two will suffice but for others a ‘Scramble Dog’ is in store. This regional specialty takes the chili dog a step further by piling on chili, oyster crackers, shredded cheese, onions, hot sauce. It's messy and filling and has become almost as famous as the chili dogs. The chili at Cordele Recreation Parlor is a classic South Georgia “hot dog chili” style, which is very different from a bowl-of-chili Texas or Midwest version. It’s almost paste-like in texture, so it spreads smoothly over the hot dog with a thin, saucy consistency meant to soak into the bun. Really fun stop. 

Pics from Cordele Recreation Parlor
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DK's Bar-B-Que (Waycross)

The small town of Waycross is the county seat of and the only incorporated place in Ware County, Georgia. It’s also the home to DK’s Bar-B-Que. Locals often describe DK's as a longtime neighborhood favorite that's been serving barbecue since the 60’s. It's the kind of place many former residents make a point to visit when they're back in town. I stopped in on the drive down last year after coming across this place and realizing it’s a bit of a hidden gem on the southern bbq circuit. This Black owned bbq joint is known for its chopped pork barbecue sandwiches served with a house-made vinegar sauce. The sandwiches are pressed giving them extra texture. I ate two and was happy with my decision to take the backroads and get lunch at DK’s instead of staying on the main highway. 

Chopped Pork Sandwiches at DK's Bar-B-Que
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Savannah Fried Chicken (Savannah)

We stopped in Savannah for a few nights on the drive down this past January. I’ll do a separate report on most of the spots we ate at but I wanted to include lunch with the locals at Savannah Fried Chicken in this post as it’s a real Roadfood type of stop. It’s considered one of Savannah's best-kept secrets - an unassuming Chinese takeout spot that’s developed a cult following for its crispy, juicy Southern style fried chicken and excellent smoky fried rice. There’s three tables inside that customers sit at to wait for their food so it’s basically a takeout joint and seemingly every city employee was stopping by for lunch on my visit. Most of them were getting some form of fried chicken and fried rice which made for a delightful combo. Both the fried chicken and the fried rice were really well made. 

Fried Chicken and Fried Rice Combo at Savannah Fried Chicken
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Willie's Wee-Nee Wagon (Brunswick)

I’m always researching spots in the towns I plan on passing thru on a roadrip and Willie’s Wee-Nee Wagon in Brunswick caught my eye. It’s ran by a widow that moved to the area from Chicago with her husband after they vacationed down here. After moving down they opened a hot dog stand that became very popular for its pork chop sandwich and hot dogs among other things. That pork chop is modeled after the Maxwell stands of Chicagoland but since we were in the South I got the fried pork chop and I also got the namesake Willie Dog which is an ode to the Chicago style hot dog. I’m glad I stopped in. I often see restaurants with some sort of connection to Chicago when I’m traveling but most of them have a connection in name only. Willie’s felt like it was plucked out of the South Side and plopped into the Georgia Lowcountry. The hot dog was ok - they’re never made in a textbook way when you’re this far from Chicago. But the pork chop sandwich is the reason to go back. It was piping hot and really nicely fried while the crisp bread with mayo and tomato was a great delivery vehicle. 

Pics from Willie's Wee-Nee Wagon
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B & J's Steaks & Seafood (Brunswick)

Shrimping is a big deal in Brunswick Georgia where commercial shrimpers harvest an average of 2.1 to 3.3 million pounds of shrimp tails annually along the Georgia coast. Because Brunswick serves as the historic hub of this regional industry it’s often called the "Shrimp Capital of the World" as a massive portion of that total is brought directly into local Brunswick docks. With that comes some great fried shrimp shacks in the area. B & J’s Steaks & Seafood is a no-frills coastal institution beloved by locals and travelers alike for its massive portions of fresh, locally caught, seafood and thick-cut steaks. I'm sure the steaks are great but you can find a good steak in alot of places. Fresh shrimp is a different story. We got a combo plate featuring a half pound of fried shrimp plus a half pound of blackened shrimp with two sides. The sides were fine but the shrimp was outstanding. When it comes to fresh caught there’s a world of difference in texture compared to the stuff you get at most supermarkets. Eating shrimp in a place like Brunswick will ruin shrimp in most other spots for you. 

Shrimp Platter at B & J's Steaks & Seafood
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JB's Shrimp Shack (Brunswick)

Last stop for this post is the most recent place I ate in Georgia. We stopped at JB’s Shrimp Shack in Brunswick before making the final push to South Florida this past January. JB's is a family-owned seafood restaurant located just off I-95. It sits in a sea of corporate entities with neighbors like Walmart, Zaxby’s, and Hilton but it’s quickly built a reputation as a standout spot for fresh Georgia seafood since opening in 2024. We popped in right around lunch time and were lucky enough to snag a table right away. Due to its location this place seems to get packed with roadtrippers meaning large families were waiting for tables during peak hours. We were here for the fried shrimp which is locally caught and truly some of the best tasting shrimp I’ve ever ate. I might even go as far as to say it’s the best fried shrimp I’ve ever had but there’s a few other spots in the Lowcountry that also come to mind. The standard breading down here is thin and brittle and the shrimp is as fresh as it gets. We also got a bowl of fish and grits made with blackened flounder that was absolutely off the charts in terms of flavor, one of the best things I’ve ate this year. On top of killer food this place had sensational service even though it was a bit of mad house, it was the holiday season after all. Highly recommended!

Lunch at JB's Shrimp Shack
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Previous Posts You Might Like:

Eating BIG in Alabama (2022)

Roadfood in Chattanooga (2022)

Eating BIG in Greenville (2024)

Roadfood in Atlanta (2024)

Roadfood in Kentucky (2025)

Roadfood in North Florida (2025)

See ya next time @chibbqking

Asian Homecook

-Grubbing in Chicago
Rohingya Style Malaysian Food in West Ridge

Grub is the main focus here but before we get to the food and flavors of Asian Homecook on Devon I have to give a rundown of what led to the recent opening of this family run Rohingya restaurant. The Rohingya crisis remains one of the world’s worst humanitarian disasters. More than a million refugees live in overcrowded camps in Bangladesh after fleeing persecution in Myanmar, while those still in the Rakhine State face ongoing violence and severe restrictions. With global aid declining and dangerous sea crossings increasing, humanitarian groups continue urging greater international support and a long term political solution to this persecution. Malaysia is also one of the major destinations for Rohingya refugees in SE Asia as it’s a Muslim-majority country and there’s existing Rohingya communities there that can help with jobs in informal sectors. Malaysia is where the family behind Asian Homecook fled Myanmar before moving to Chicago which hosts one of the largest Rohingya communities in the country. The Rohingya Culture Center on Devon is at the center of that. The community nonprofit was founded in 2016 to support Rohingya refugees who resettled in Chicago. The center provides day-to-day services like ESL class, job support, case management, youth programs, and navigating healthcare and public services. It also acts as a cultural hub where families can stay connected to language, food traditions, and community life while rebuilding in the U.S. 

Rohingya Culture Center of Chicago (2740 W Devon)

I started to notice a few Rohingya owned grocers on and off of Devon the past few years so it was only a matter of time until a Rohingya restaurant opened which is where Asian Homecook comes back into the picture. It opened about two months ago, but you wouldn’t know it if just driving by as the sign from the previous business is still up. There’s a small sticker on the door and a picture of some dishes but there's not much else to let you know this is no longer an Indian kebab restaurant. 

Asian Homecook

On my visit it looked like a nice sized crowd of locals, older and younger, have embraced this place. The menu is made up of four sections (all Halal) starting with roti flatbread. Roti was brought to British Malaya by South Indian Tamil Muslim immigrants in the early 20th century, evolving from Indian parotta. An order of Roti Telur (egg roti) is a great starting point here. It’s made by stretching dough really thin, cracking an egg, and folding it into a square parcel, and pan-frying it until crispy. Asian Homecook serves their Roti Telur with a soothing lentil curry and a vibrant sambal chili sauce.

Roti Telur

Fried (goreng) noodles (mee) are another focal point. An order of ‘Mee Goreng Mamak’ was everything I love about stir fried noodles. Originating from the Indian-Muslim (Mamak) community, yellow egg noodles are stir-fried over a high heat and deliver a sweet, savory, and spicy flavor profile, achieved by tossing the noodles in sambal, soy sauces, spices. The Mee Goreng Mamak at Asian Homecook is a large and spicy portion with tofu, crisp veggies and crunchy chilis for just $7.

Mee Goreng Mamak at Asian Homecook

Fried Rice (Nasi) makes up the final section of food options (there's also a drinks page). Early reviews online point to Nasi Goreng Kampung aka Village Fried Rice. Nasi Goreng Kampung is a beloved, savory and spicy Southeast Asian dish featuring day-old rice tossed with rustic ingredients like pounded shallots, garlic, bird’s-eye chilies, shrimp paste, and crispy fried anchovies and it typically comes topped with a fried egg. The friendly English speaking waitress also recommended this dish as her personal favorite so I wasn’t going to pass it up. Unlike other fried rice variations, Village Fried Rice is extremely savory with a distinct umami punch and extra spice. The use of belacan (fermented shrimp paste) gives this dish a rich and extra aromatic flavor profile that pairs perfectly with the salty crunch of tiny dried anchovies. Diced chicken is included in the version at Asian Homecook but it’s basically a filler. The flavor, and there’s a ton of it in this dish, comes from all of the other stuff. 

Nasi Goreng Kampung aka Village Fried Rice

The most interesting options seem to be the daily specials showcased on their Instagram. That’s where I first learned about one of Malaysia’s most recognizable dishes - Nasi Kerabu. This vibrant blue colored rice dish comes from the the east coast states of Kelantan and Terengganuz. It's made with a delicately floral rice turned indigo blue by steeping it in a water made of bunga telang (butterfly-pea flower). It’s commonly served with fresh herbs, crispy fish crackers, and different proteins like fried chicken and fish plus a sweet and spicy coconut sauce. Wow I thought - this is one of the most vibrant dishes I've ever come across. I would be surprised to learn you can find this dish anywhere else in the city as Malaysian food is pretty scarce in these parts and the one spot we do have is Peranakan, an entirely different group with different origins, food cultures, and geographic locations. My visit to Asian Homecook reminded me of two things. The first was how despite all its flaws just how privileged it is to be born in the USA. The second thing was I really need to go to Malaysia which sits near the top of my bucketlist. The food is a vibrant, mouth-watering reflection of its multicultural society, blending Malay, Chinese, and Indian flavors with spices, chilies, coconut cream. It's said the people are warm, exceptionally hospitable, and famously united by their deep, shared passion for eating, socializing, and celebrating their diversity. A meal at Asian Homecook feels like a sneak peek. 

Nasi Kerabu

Asian Homecook
2739 W Devon Ave
Chicago, IL 60659
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Eating BIG in Lima

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- Crossing One Off the Bucketlist

I was finally able to get to Lima this past November. Lima sat at or near the top of my travel bucketlist for a really long time. Notice how I said Lima and not Peru. Honestly I never had much interest in visiting Peru outside of going to Lima to eat, which is partly why it took me so long to get there. Most people go to Lima because they have to stop there before they go to Macchu Picchu or elsewhere. I was the opposite in that I wanted to go to Lima but didn’t have much interest in going to Cusco or elsewhere, that was a mistake. More on my mistake at the end of this post but for now I’m going to show and tell you why the people that use Lima as just a stop over are also making a mistake. 

Pics from Lima (click all pics to enhance)

Lima is the capital of Peru and the country’s political, economic, and culinary centers. It sits on the Pacific coast in a massive desert-meets-ocean metropolis of nearly 10 million people. It’s gritty, it’s historic, and it’s very much a food forward city. Culturally it has a strong mix of Indigenous, Spanish, African, Chinese, and Japanese influence. The city has massive festivals tied to Catholic traditions and a big surf culture as you can catch waves year-round. Lima is often considered the food capital of Latin America. Lima isn’t conventionally “beautiful” at first glance. The traffic is terrible and the sky is grey. But it rewards those that dig in. Miraflores and Barranco are the two hip neighborhoods. Miraflores is modern, coastal, tourist-friendly and has a ton of restaurants. Barranco is bohemian, artsy and nightlife-heavy. San Isidro is the main business district. Centro Histórico is full of Colonial architecture and history. Barrio Chino is home to the oldest Chinese community in Latin America.

Pics from Lima

As far the food goes it really did live up to the hype and then some. I haven’t ate that well on a country's local cuisine since the last time I was in Asia. Lima is rightfully placed among the world’s best food cities. Peru has coast, mountains, and jungle, and Lima sits right on the Pacific meaning easy access to fresh seafood, 100’s of varieties of potatoes and corn from the Andes, plus tropical fruits, cacao, and herbs from the Amazon. Mix all that with the deep connection to the Far East and you have a unique mix of culinary traditions that don’t just coexist — they reshape one another.

Pics from Lima
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La Lucha Sangucheria

We had a reservation for our first meal in Lima but had gotten there a bit early. That said there was an outlet of Lima’s most famous sangucheria down the block so I decided to knock La Lucha Sangucheria off of my hit list. Lima’s most well known sandwich chain was started by a guy named César Taboada, who had plans to make Peruvian-style sandwiches a source of national pride. He succeeded in a very short amount of time as the first location opened in Miraflores in 2008. Fast forward to 2026 and they have more than 10 locations in Lima plus outlets in Mexico City and Bogota.

Papas Fritas y Chicha Morada

The Pan con Chicharron is Lima’s most popular sandwich so it’s only fitting that it’s the most popular offering at La Lucha Sangucheria. This wonderful specimen starts with crisp Pan con Frances that gets stuffed with fried pork belly plus a slice of sweet potato and salsa criolla which is a cold relish of finely sliced red onions sitting in vinegar (it can include salt, tomatoes, garlic, Aji peppers). It's a heavyweight in the wide world of sandwiches and I suggest making a meal out of one by adding a side of terrific fresh cut fries that are cut by actual hands. The sandwich is a great mix of ingredients and should definitely be a source of national pride as should the fries. Make it a complete meal here by adding a Chicha Morada or a fresh squeezed juice into the mix. The former is Peru’s national non alcoholic drink and is made using culli as a base ingredient. Culli is a Peruvian variety of corn commonly known as purple corn and it's abundantly grown and harvested along the Andes Mountains region. Also of note are the juice options at Lima’s sandwich shops - they're outstanding. Limeños eat sandwiches at all hours of the day and they’re very popular for breakfast paired with a fresh fruit juice.

Pan con Chicharron at La Lucha Sangucheria
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Ototo Barra Nikkei

I hit the ground running as I walked over to Ototo Barra Nikkei after my introduction to Lima’s sandwich culture. We made a reservation to try the omakase at Ototo after learning the owner / chef came from Maido which some consider Lima’s best restaurant - it was ranked #1 in the 2025 Worlds 50 Best Restaurants list. Well Maido was booked by the time we got our tickets to Peru but Ototo was brand new and word was just starting to spread about this intimate Peruvian-Japanese (Nikkei) sushi bar in Surquillo. They offer a chef-led counter experience featuring fresh and local high quality ingredients in the form of nigiri, ceviche, and a few Japanese street food favorites served personally by owner and head chef Marco Palma. He's joined by his wife and two others in a space that seats maybe 10 people max. You can do ala carte or try all of the food thru the chefs tasting menu which was tough to pass up at a such a fair price-point ($45 for 8 courses). All the food was really good and the meal was very filling. I expect this place to blow up in terms of coverage over the next year or so. 

Amuse Bouche 

Ostra y Percebes

Octopus Gyoza

Usuzukuri (Tiradito)

Sando con Perjerrey

Nikkei Ceviche

Sashimi

Foie Gras Sashimi

Okayu Criollo
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Verbena Restaurante

Dinner on our first night in Lima was at Verbena Restaurante. I was very much looking forward to trying this place and that was before Chef Marco Palma at Ototo gave it a ringing endorsement during our lunch there. As it turned out he’s good friends with Richi Goachet who’s the head chef at Verbena. Chef Richi and his team are showcasing Peruvian ingredients with global touches in a small and cozy art filled space. The focus as far as ingredients is fresh and seasonal seafood and produce cooked in a small open kitchen. We started out with a plate of the tiradito which is a popular Peruvian dish of raw fish, cut in the shape of sashimi, and similar to crudo and carpaccio it’s served in a well spiced sauce. Tiradito reflects the influence of Japanese cuisine in Peru as the dish is a fusion between Peruvian and Japanese food aka Nikkei Cuisine. The technique of preparing fine cuts of sashimi in a spicy citrus base is practiced at restaurants throughout Peru and chefs get to put their personal touches on the dish as far as what type of raw fish to use and what goes into the sauce. The Tiradito served at Verbena was nothing short of outstanding but I can’t remember exactly what was in it aside from some house fried potato chips using one of the many varieties of Peruvian potatoes. Most of the ingredients they used were native to Peru and thus not flavors I was completely familiar with - but they left a lasting impression. Looking back on it every dish we had here was a hit resulting in an A+ meal. 

Verbena Tiradito

Artichoke Stew Empanadillas with Roasted Red Pepper Honey

Duck "Ramen" Pear Dim Sum with Pickled Mushrooms


Grilled Prawns, Zarandaja Beans, Chifles
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Sandwiches Monstruos

Sandwiches Monstruos is an all day and all night operation known for their big and hearty loaded sandwiches, hence the Monster Sandwiches name. The flagship location opened in Barranco in 1967 but they also have locations in San Miguel and Miraflores. I decided to walk over one morning and have a Sanguche de Pavo for breakfast. I chose turkey bc it was commonly mentioned in the reviews and also because turkey sandwiches are very popular in Peru. We’re talking actual turkey and not mystery deli meat. Fresh roasted turkey is stuffed into a Pan con Frances with Aji sauce plus salsa criolla and anything else you want. Simple but sensational in terms of a turkey sandwich.

Sanguche de Pavo at Sandwiches Monstruos
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Al Toke Pez

We made sure to get to Al Toke Pez right when it opened as it was already busy spot before gaining international attention after being featured in the Netflix series ‘Street Food: Latin America’. Though they moved to a new spot not too long ago so it’s not as cramped and tight spaced as it once was. While most of the reviews I read were positive there were a few that said it was overrated or too hyped but that’s to be expected once you hit it big. If you haven’t seen the episode featuring Al Toke Pez the series features Tomás “Toshi” Matsufuji, the Peruvian-Japanese chef and owner of Al Toke Pez. His dad was a renowned restaurateur and pioneer of Peru's Nikkei (Japanese-Peruvian) cuisine. In the episode Chef Matsufuji talks of the early struggle to live up to his dads legacy before deciding he was going to do what he wanted which is a lowkey spot where they do a few things and they do those things really well. The menu is basically made up of ceviche, arroz mariscos, and chicharrón de pescado and most people get the “combinado” which is a platter featuring all three. I was happy with the product. The ceviche tasted super fresh and might've been my favorite of all the ceviche I tried while the fried rice was really nice with big hits of wok hei. It's made to order and they get the wok smoking right there in front of you in the open kitchen. The fried fish was hot and crisp and cut into nice bite sized pieces. The people who leave this place negative reviews must be miserable. We had a fantastic first lunch that fed two of us for just $11. I don’t know if the lines have died down with time but it wasn’t busy on our visit granted we were in and out within an hour of them opening.

La Famosa Combinado at Al Toke Pez
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Alegría Picantería Piurana

Our second lunch of the day was at a newer spot that hasn’t reached the international masses yet but word has spread amongst Limenos. Alegría Picantería Piurana was already packed when we arrived for our 12:30p reservation. When I reached out to make that reservation weeks before they told me a 12:30p was all they had and I could see they weren't lying upon arriving. We were very clearly the only tourists in there as the crowd was mostly made up of large groups of locals ranging from people stepping out of work to eat to older ladies out lunching with their friends and so forth. Everyone here for big plates of Northern Peruvian favorites such as the Northern Ceviche featuring fresh Mero Fish aka grouper marinated in lime juice with onions, cilantro, Peruvian chili peppers. It comes with zarandaja beans and boiled yucca and is starting to gather buzz as the best ceviche in town. I'm not qualified to make that claim but it was extra fresh and had tons of depth in terms of texture and taste.

Northern Ceviche at Alegría Picantería Piurana

As good as the ceviche was it the Máncora style seafood rice that stole the show. I haven’t had enough plates of seafood rice to know how this one stacks up but the version at Alegría Picantería Piurana was one of the best things I ate in Peru. This dish is molded after the seafood rice served up in a resort town in Northwest Peru. It’s made with the daily catch, yellow chili sofrito, peas, sweet corn, zarandaja beans and a touch of lime. The amount of flavor packed into this dish was impressive and it had good texture going for it too with a huge pile of thinly shaved raw onions sitting on top. Unfortunately that was all we got to try as the portions are massive and meant to be shared. If I had an extra day I might've returned here to try something else such as the Seco de Chabelo or perhaps the Northern style baby goat stew. I bet the duck rice is also dank. What a great 1-2 Punch for lunch.

Máncora Style Seafood Rice Alegría Picantería Piurana
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Picarones "Mary"

Picarones Mary was another spot I wanted to try after seeing it on the Lima episode of ‘Street Food: Latin America’ on Netflix. It’s a cute little stand ran by a family that serves fresh Picarones or Peruvian donuts. Picarones originated in Lima during Spanish rule and are said to derive from buñuelos which are a Spanish deep-fried dough. While Picarones look like buñuelos they are one of a kind in that they aren’t made with just flour and eggs but instead with an interesting combination containing squash called macre mixed with boiled sweet potatoes which are mashed to make a puree which is mixed with flour, yeast, sugar. The puree is formed into the shape of a torus and deep fried before getting drenched in a sweet spiced syrup made of chancaca, an unrefined, raw sugarcane sugar product. Picarones are commonly enjoyed alongside a cup of Chicha Morada aka purple drink. Picarones Mary has been in Parque Kennedy since 1990 and has an additional stand in Miraflores.

Picarones at Picarones Mary
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Clon

Clon is a highly acclaimed restaurant in Lima's Barranco district. I would highly recommend it. They offer Venezuelan-Peruvian fusion cuisine and are led by head chef Juan Luis Martínez. It’s the casual "sister" spot to the award-winning Mérito which was still to come. But Clon is much more casual in terms of the setting and the pricing though the food is just as refined. High-quality ingredients are paired with skilled technique resulting in some wonderful plates of food coming out of the intimate open kitchen. I feel like this is the type of spot where you really can’t go wrong with whatever you order. Everything we got was awesome making it tough to pick a favorite. Yet another A+ meal.

Arepa Andina - Wheat Arepa, Fried Pejerrey, Yellow Chili Peppers

Taquito Panceta - Glazed Pork Belly over Arracacha Slices

Udon Chili Crab - Stir Fried Udon, Spicy Sour Sauce, Popeye Crab

Curry - Catch of the Day, Green Curry, Black Mashua Rice, Peruvian Corn

Churros - Churros Choux and Seasonal Ice Cream
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Anticucheria El Tio Mario

The Anticucho is quite literally the heart of Peruvian food. The beef heart-based dish is a very popular late night snack in Peru. Sliced pieces of beef heart are marinated in vinegar and more before being skewered and grilled over charcoal. I had originally walked over to the corner where a famous vendor sets up shop but she wasn’t there so instead I went to El Tio Mario which is a well known Anticucheria in the Barranco neighborhood. El Tio Mario started out as cart but has grown into a full blown restaurant. Lots of large groups out to on my visit which was solo so I got a two piece with potato which ended up being a ton of food for less than $10. The beef had a real nice flavor from the marinade and the grill but it was a tad chewy due to it being cut in huge chunks. A knife and fork come in handy as I found it much more pleasurable when cut into little bite sized pieces. The skewers come with a wonderful pair of red and yellow aji sauce that takes it to the next level. I would eat these again.

Anticucho at Anticucheria El Tio Mario
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DeMo

Next morning we headed back to Barranco to start the day at DeMo - the popular, high-end bakery and brunch spot ran by Juan Luis Martínez who also runs Merito and Clon. Chef Martinez and his team were 3-3 as DeMo is the real deal in terms of the pastries. We tried a few and each of them was outstanding including the super light and extra flaky croissant with tons of butter mixed in. It was Paris quality. They also do brunch and it looked great but we had lunch plans right down the block.

Pastries at DeMo
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Isolina

Isolina Taberna was right down the block from our last stop so we decided to stop by right as they were opening. Isolina is a celebrated Peruvian tavern style restaurant in Barranco. It’s known for serving classic criolla cuisine which is the hearty, traditional cooking of Peru that focuses on rich sauces, stews, and time-honored recipes. It’s a very popular spot with both tourists and locals thus it was packed within 20 minutes of opening. I wish this wasn’t a spur of the moment stop as the menu here is filled with interesting options but we came for the ‘Pan Con Pejerrey’ which is a Peruvian fish sandwich. It’s made with crisp fried pejerrey fillets served in crusty French-style bread, accompanied by salsa tártara and salsa criolla - a tangy mix of onions, lime, and chili added for brightness and acidity. All due respect to Florida but I think the best fish sandwiches might reside in Lima.

Pan con Pejerrey at Isolina
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Helado de Lima

Helado de Lima serves it's artisanal ice cream at a few locations in the city. The flavors here reflect the city's unique mix of coastal, Andean and immigrant influences. I've mentioned before that I much prefer fruit flavors to chocolate and creamy ones and a scoop of Maracuya was the right call. 

Maracuya (Passionfruit)
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Juanito Barranco

Because it wasn’t far I also made an impromptu stop for the Sanguche de Butifarra at Juanito Barranco. Butifarra is Peruvian country style ham which is boiled and roasted and seasoned with Aji panca chile peppers, garlic, and spices. Juanito Barranco is an old school spot that’s been serving Butifarra since 1937. They hand slice the Jamon to order and stuff into a crisp ciabatta roll with salsa criolla making it a simple but sensational sandwich in a real throw back the clock type of spot.

Butifarra at Juanito Barranco
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Shizen

The Nikkei food in Lima impressed at every meal it was featured in. Shizen is widely regarded among the best in town when it comes to Peruvian-Japanese food. The team at Shizen consists of two chefs with Japanese Peruvian roots and one from Northern Peru and they really nailed the combining of these two powerhouse cuisines. At Shizen they mix Peruvian citrus and chilies like ají amarillo and rocoto with Japanese sauces like ponzu, miso, and dashi. The final product is balanced but bold. Tiradito is the perfect example of this and always a must at a Nikkei spot like this. It was excellent.

Tiradito at Shizen

I was particularly enthralled with the Nikkei Nigiri which is a spin on classic Edo style Nigiri that uses Peruvian ingredients and Japanese technique. Nikkei Nigiri is much more contrasting than traditional sushi - it’s got acidity and sometimes even has heat to it. The nigiri menu at Shizen changes based on what’s fresh but based on what we ate it felt like it was tough to go wrong with whatever's selected.

Nikkei Nigiri at Shizen

We skipped the maki at Shizen and opted for some noodles instead. The Udon Uchucuta was a memorable bowl of thick and chewy udon noodles with shrimp and scallops sauteed in Batayaki sauce (a buttery mix of soy, mirin and more). Served with Rocoto Uchucutta which is a spicy condiment sauce commonly made with rocoto chiles, grated cucumbers, peanuts, huacatay leaves, evaporated milk, chopped onions, coriander leaves, queso fresco, and salt. The flavors were magical.

Udon Uchucuta at Shizen
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Chifa Titi

I had two food spots that I was not going to miss no matter what. The first of which was Chifa Titi. Chifa is the term used to describe the Peruvian-Chinese food that’s a staple of everyday life in Lima. It comes from Chinese immigrants (mostly Cantonese) who arrived in Peru in the late 1800s and blended their cooking with local ingredients and tastes. The name comes from the Cantonese phrase “chi fan” meaning “to eat rice.” Chifa can also refer to the restaurants that serve Peruvian-Chinese food and chifa spots are everywhere in Peru in the same way American Chinese food is found all over the U.S. Chifa is similar to American Chinese food (also a product of the Cantonese) but it has its own distinctions. It’s a bit saltier, smokier, and less sweet. Though the dishes are the same format with fried rice, stir-fried noodles, and crispy battered meats being the focal point of most Chifa menus. Chifa Titi is a higher end chifa (expect American prices) and those in the know will tell you it’s the best chifa in Lima. I wish I had more eating power here alas it was just me so I only got to try a few things. First up was an order of fried wontons which very much hit the spot but are probably better ordered for a group. Next out was the best shrimp fried rice I’ve ever had, the smoky flavor from the wok hei was incredible. I became familiar with Pollo Chi Jau Kay at a popular Peruvian Chinese restaurant in Miami and it's since become my go-to order at any chifa spot. It's a crispy, battered dish of deep-fried chicken that's cut and covered in a savory brown gravy infused with ginger, garlic, oyster sauce, and sesame oil. I loved Pollo Chijaukay before going to Titi and I love it even more after going there. 

Chifa Dinner at Chifa Titi
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Pastelería and Panadería San Antonio

Pastelería / Panadería San Antonio was founded by two Spanish friends, Don Pepe (José Vila) and Don Emilio, who together with a team of Peruvian baking artisans opened the very first San Antonio bakery on October 21, 1959, in the district of Magdalena in Lima. Today they have 9 locations in Lima making it a local staple for sandwiches and pastries. I walked over to one for breakfast one morning and it was bumping like we were in Paris or Zurich. I ended up getting a Peruvian Triple Sandwich as I'd read they're known for having a good one. The Triple Sandwich is made up of three thin slices of bread and a trio of layers made up of avocado slices, tomato slices, sliced hard-boiled eggs, and mayonnaise. It’s a ubiquitous snack at birthday parties and is also considered a typical breakfast. 

Triple Sandwich at San Antonio Bakery
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Aji y Rocoto

I mentioned how there were two spots on my must stop list and this was the other one. It wasn’t necessarily this exact place but I had to have a plate of Lomo Saltado while I was in Lima and ended up choosing Aji y Rocoto even though it was a bit off the typical tourist path plus they serve a portion meant to feed two. I’d read customers line up to eat here so I made sure I was there about 15 minutes before they opened and lucky me as I was the first one there. By the time I was seated a line started to form and as seen above it went all the way down the block by the time I was leaving. Aji y Rocoto sports a blackboard made up of maybe like ten items with Lomo Saltado always sitting at the very top. This beloved Peruvian stir-fry was originally a chifa dish blending Cantonese cooking techniques with Peruvian ingredients. It’s typically made with marinated strips of sirloin or tenderloin and wok-seared with red onions, tomatoes, ají amarillo peppers and soy sauce plus French fries, and vinegar, and served with white rice. I knew this would be good as soon as it arrived. It had a mesmerizing smell and was still sizzling having come fresh from a flaming wok. I basically inhaled most of what was on my plate leaving nothing but a small pile of rice. The flavors and the textures are off the charts with this dish. It’s tough to pick the single best thing I ate in Lima but it would also be tough not to pick this.

Lomo Saltado at Aji y Rocoto
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Tomo Cocina Nikkei

Tomo Cocina Nikkei is yet another popular spot for Nikkei. It was co founded by two guys that met years ago while working togther in other Lima based Nikkei kitchens. They teamed up to open Tomo and their combined experience and passion for Japanese-Peruvian food speaks loud and clear. For starters a fried fish steamed bun made up of the catch of the day deep fried in tempura with nikkei tartar sauce was lovely. But again it’s the nigiri that really stands out. I could eat the toro roll with tuna belly and a yellow smoked chili sauce every day and never get sick of it. Such wonderful flavors.

Nikkei Nigiri at Tomo Cocina Nikkei
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Curich Cremoladas

I was very happy to learn of the cremolada while I was still in Lima. Cremolada is a classic Peruvian frozen fruit dessert that’s similar to Italian ice (a personal favorite). It’s a refreshing and fruity slushie type of drink that’s especially popular during the warmer weather months. Made up of finely shaved ice, fresh fruit pulp, and syrup and it sits somewhere between a smoothie, a granita, and a slushie, but with a thicker, icy texture that sets it apart from other iced out fruit drinks. I love any and all forms of icy summertime treats so I sought one out at Curich Cremolada. The roots of this place trace back to 1942 when a man of Croatian descent started a family business that included helados and cremoladas. The Miraflores location is a walk up window and you can choose from dozens of fruity flavors that I’m pretty sure are all very good. I tried Maracuya and Mango and both slapped.

Cremolada at Curich Cremoladas
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Mérito

Our last meal in Peru was my most anticipated meal of the trip. When Lima is discussed as a great food city the conversation usually starts with the higher end tasting meal spots that are commonly ranked among the Worlds 50 Best. Well everything I read (mostly on the fine dining subreddit) said that both Central and Maito were living off their accolades while Mérito had taken over the crown of best tasting menu in town. Some went as far as to say it's the best restaurant in the world right now. If you give any sort of credence to 'The World's 50 Best' restaurant list it currently sits at #26 overall. 

Sachatomate aka Tamarillo (Tree Tomato)

Mérito is led by Chef Juan Luis Martínez, a Venezuelan chef who opened Mérito in 2018 after working and training in Peru’s fine‑dining scene. He combines his Venezuelan roots with Peruvian ingredients and techniques to create an acclaimed tasting‑menu experience featuring ingredients from the Amazon and the Andes. I believe the total number of courses can range between 8-12 but by the time we were finished we had 12 courses come out (there’s always a couple of Amuse Bouche type courses). Every dish we had was skillfully made with a few of the plates scoring a perfect ten. 

Yacon, fish, kiwicha


Mamey, olluco, macambo

First course out was an eye popping dish, or rather sip, of fermented Sachatomate juice. This "Jungle Tomato" juice was served chilled in it's own shell - it was fruity, salty and quite intense. Second was a plate of edible art made with chopped fish sandwiched between wafers of yacon root and kiwicha - an ancient crop planted and cultivated by the Inca 4,000 years ago. Third course was another plate of edible art made with mamey (a tropical fruit), olluco (an Andean tuber), and macambo, which is also known as white jaguar cacao. For the fourth course we had what I would describe as the kitchens twist on a ceviche. Instead of using limes they used sanky, a very sour Andean fruit, for its leche de tigre-style sauce. Fifth course was simply described as corn bread but it was so much better than any cornbread I've had in the past. Served wrapped in a charred husk with black butter (10/10). 

Scallops, sanky and jalapeno


Corn Bread in a Corn Husk

Sixth course was when we started getting into the proteins with dishes like a perfectly cooked piece of local trout in a light sauce made with huacatay - the potent herb also known as black mint. For the seventh course we tried Paiche, the huge Amazonian river fish, featured fish stick-style in a wrapper made of oxidized yacon. For dipping purposes there was tacupi - an Amazonian sauce made with fermented yucca and the addition of cacao nibs (10/10). The eighth course was the kitchens take on a curry mixing ancient and aromatic Andean herbs in a dark green sauce made of chincho, paico, haucatay and basil draped over prawns. Course number nine was my second favorite dish of this incredible tasting. The meals most luxurious dish was made with with Chilean wagyu and oxtail dumplings sitting in a rich and meaty sauce with pickled mango as a palate cleanser (10/10).

Trout and Huacatay


Paiche, cacao and tucupi


Andean Curry

Beef, arracache, mango

It’s not often a dessert dish is my favorite course of the night but I could not stop thinking about course number ten which the menu described as "cocona, mashua and lemon verbena." So an Amazonian fruit (cocona) with an Andean starch (mashua) plus Lemon Verbena - a fragrant perennial shrub with a strong lemon-scented aroma. Please believe me when I tell you it was as memorable of a dessert I’ve had. By this point the meal was well worth the price of admission ($220/pp) which isn't cheap but still very fair when compared to U.S pricing. The eleventh course was another delicious dessert described on the menu as Papa volodora (a tuber) coffee and lucuma. Served with a slice of super-airy cake that evaporated in your mouth like a cloud of sweetness leaving behind a delicate hint of caramelized warmth that balanced perfectly with the rich, earthy coffee and the tropical, almost honeyed flavor of the lucuma. Last but not least was a complimentary serving of their otherworldly flan which they sent out as an anniversary gift. Thus completed our culinary journey to another world.

Cocona, mashua, lemon verbena

Papa volodora (a tuber) coffee and lucuma 

Flan at Mérito
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BONUS TRIP!!!

Cusco Peru

Cusco is one of those cities where you can feel the history, even more so than the altitude. Upon our arrival I took a quick 25 minute stroll around town and quickly fell in love with the place. Yes it’s touristy but the tight cobblestone streets spill into grand plazas and the ghosts of the Inca civilization lurk at every turning corner. Serving as the gateway to Machu Picchu, Cusco is a magical place where mornings start with coca tea and afternoons are spent wandering past stone walls that have survived earthquakes since the 1400s. Evenings are meant for a Pisco sour or two. We weren’t there to eat (or drink) but I found a few spots that I would recommend including some very good shawarma served with Peruvian aji sauces at Shajjar "El auténtico sabor Mediterráneo" kebab & Shawarma. I tried an alpaca burger at Jacks Cafe and it was a tad dry but that was fixed with the toppings and a terrific house baked bun. I walked past Polleria Don Lucho one night and it was bustling. Three floors worth of dining rooms were jam packed but I managed to squeeze a spot and taste what everyone was there for - Peruvian style rotisserie chicken with salchipapas (French fries with sliced hot dogs and sauces). Other than that we ate at The Belmond Hotel which is where we stayed. They had a great breakfast buffet with local flavors including fresh fruit and Butifarra breakfast sandwiches. Our lovely stay at The Belmond came with perks so one night we tried a teriffic Arequipenian style rigatoni with shrimp in coral sauce, buttery cheese and Huacatay chimichurri. I wish we had more time to explore Cusco proper but we had daytime activities planned for every day save for the day we arrived.

Food in Cusco

We hired a local tour guide and a driver who took us on a daytrip to visit an old village where we watched locals make the alpaca clothing you see all over Cusco. It’s a very interesting and 100% natural process. I bought a close fitting knitted hat and some gloves that have come in handy in Chicago this winter. We also stopped at a popular passage on the Inka trail where mass was in session at an old church. After that we visited the Moray, a significant Inca archeological site located in the Sacred Valley. Our last stop of this incredible daytrip was the Salinas de Mares. The Salt Mines of Maras consist of over 5,000 ancient, terraced salt pans in operation since pre-Inca times. My jaw was dropped the entire day. It felt like I was in one of the mast magical places in the world.

Passing on an old Inka Trail

Moray

Maras Salt Mines

Of course the main reason for our visit to Cusco was the same as everybody else - to visit Machu Picchu. I'll just come out and say it from the start. It would've been crazy to go all the way to Peru and not visit Machu Picchu. Words cant describe the out of experience I had upon entering the area. It was breathtaking walking around this ancient site. There's different  ways you can get to Machu Picchu including hiking but we didn't have the time or the will to do that so instead we did the exact opposite of walking and camping. We rode the Hiram Bingham, an extension of the Orient Express. A trip on the Belmond Train includes the ride to Machu Picchu and the return journey with food, entertainment, and unlimited drinks. It's not cheap but it did make a memorable day even more so. The food was good (not great) but we met a really nice older couple from Australia on the way there and hung at the bar where everyone was having a good time on the ride back. If you want to reach out via email I can set you up with the people that took care of us in Cusco. That’s it for this trip!

Boarding the Haram Bingham

Entrance to the Amazon (Aguas Calientes)

MACHU PICCHU
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Click HERE for my google maps guide to Lima Restaurants

See ya next time @chibbqking