TXA TXA Club

-Grubbing in Chicago
Creative Cooking in Logan Square

We’re more than halfway thru 2026 and I’m finding it tough to come up with a bunch of names as far as best new restaurants in Chicago go. I haven’t been everywhere but I’ve been to most of the spots I want to try that have opened thus far, there’s just not that many and it’s not for a lack openings either. Over the past few years a lot of restaurants in Chicago and beyond have gravitated toward concepts that feel safe. Stuff like smash burgers, pizza, chicken sandwiches, casual Italian, or steakhouse adjacent spots. I guess these formats have broad appeal but to me they all feel the same. I’m looking for spots that stand out in a crowded field and with that there’s only been a few exceptions lately. 

Recently Opened in Logan Square

TXA TXA Club is an all day cafe at 3268 W. Fullerton Ave. It went from a pop-up supper club to a permanent brick and mortar space earlier this year. Rather than fitting neatly into the "brunch spot" or "coffee shop" categories it gives off a European style cafe vibes. You can stop in for coffee at 8a or linger over lunch at high noon, meet friends for an aperitivo after work, or make a date place for cocktails and dinner in the evening. It’s a neighborhood type of spot. The name "TXA TXA" ("cha-cha") comes from the Basque word txoko, referring to social dining clubs centered on cooking, eating, gathering. That philosophy is reflected throughout as they host Sunday night supper clubs platforming chefs from around town while the menu isn’t really identifiable as far as one single cuisine goes. 

Pimento Cheese, Nam Prik Pao, lime cured pickles, saltines

The dishes here borrow ideas from the American South, Mediterranean and Southeast Asia often combining ingredients you wouldn't expect to see together. You’ll find a delicious rendition of housemade Pimento Cheese mixed with nam prik pao and served with lime cured lime pickles and classic saltine crackers. Nam Prik Pao is a Thai roasted chili jam that presents many flavor profiles ranging from sweet to smoky to funky and it pairs nicely with the sharp and creamy pimento cheese while the sweet pickles build even more flavor in what’s typically a very traditional dish.

Honeydew, Rhubarb Jim Jaew, Sweet Lime Oxalis

Depending on the season, you might find perfectly scooped balls of melon with rhubarb jim jaew, sweet lime, oxalis. As soon as I saw that on the menu I thought “that’s an interesting dish!” Jim Jaew is a Thai style dipping sauce usually made with chilis, toasted rice, herbs, lime juice, and fish sauce and I never thought to use it with sweet in-season melon but upon further review it’s a popular snack in Thailand. I love learning of new dishes thru restaurants which isn’t all that common for me anymore. I’d never even heard of Oxalis which is a little clover-like herb that adds a bright lemony tang and a nice visual finish to dishes. I appreciate a place where I can learn about new things. 

Butter Beans, Pea Shoot, Zhoug, Fenugreek, Egg

There is no burger or fried chicken sandwich on the menu. They do have a breakfast sandwich with a house made pork patty plus Umeboshi aioli and Salmoriglio that’s garnered buzz though I haven’t tried it yet. But you get the idea - Umeboshi is Japanese pickled plum and Salmoriglio is an Italian lemon and herb sauce. Quite an interesting combo. Some dishes switch in and out depending on the season such as a plate of butter beans with pea shoots, zhoug, fenugreek, and egg. Both my visits came on hot summer days and this dish was perfect paired with the heat. It was revitalizing. Same can be said for the cold noodles which are extra refreshing in their own right. Thin and slippery wheat noodles mixed with XO sauce, sesame, sweet soy, and a ton of fresh herbs is super satisfying.

Cold Noodles, XO Sauce, Sesame, Sweet Soy, Herbs

As you can see meat isn’t a focal point on the menu here. But they do have the previously mentioned breakfast sandwich as well as a pork curry. The latter is listed as BBQ Pork and described as a yellow curry with Chinese broccoli and Jasmine rice. It’s a pretty plain description for a dish with a ton of depth. I was transported to South Florida upon first taste in that it has a very Caribbean flavor profile to me. It’s been awhile since a dish got a real wow from me and there was more than one at that. I highly encourage people to check this place out and give them some encouragement for going against the grain at a time when most everybody else is playing it super safe. Now is the perfect time to do so with the summer harvest in full swing. The current menu pairs really well with the heat.

BBQ Pork, Yellow Curry, Gai Lan, Jasmine Rice

TXA TXA Club
3268 W Fullerton Ave

Chicago, IL 60647 

(773) 799-8511

Website

Dongpo Impression

-Grubbing in Chicago
Late Night Sichuan Food in Chinatown

The pandemic didn’t completely kill late-night dining, but it drastically shrunk the number of 24/7 spots and permanently shifted restaurant hours into earlier closing times. This was driven by surging labor costs, staffing shortages, and changing consumer habits. It’s slowly getting better but you needn’t look no further than Chinatown for just how few places stay open past 9pm these days. I could count the ones that did on one hand as recently as last year. A few spots have since opened that stay open until 11pm but even still, late night dining in Chinatown isn’t as prevalent as you might think. You basically have a handful of choices after 10pm and today we’re going to visit my go-to option. 

Locals Favorite in Chinatown

Dongpo Impression sits on Cermak and stays open until 12am daily. It’s from the same ownership group as Chengdu Impression and Chengdu Bistro. That restaurant group is spearheaded by Ryan Hu, nephew of legendary Chinatown restaurateur Tony Hu of Lao Sze Chuan fame. All three brands are showcasing food from the Sichuan region of China but the menu varies by location. Dongpo Impression specializes in Meizhou-style cuisine, a distinct sub-regional branch of Sichuan cooking originating from Meishan. Meizhou cuisine features the fiery flavors most people associate with Sichuan food but its overall style is characterized by a balance of savory, sweet, sour, and numbing profiles rather than just heat. As is the case with one of their most popular dishes - Dongpo Pork. 

Dongpo Pork

Dongpo pork aka Dongpo Rou is a classic Hangzhou dish featuring thick, melt-in-your-mouth pork belly braised in a rich and glossy mixture of Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, ginger, scallions, and rock sugar. The dish is named after famous Song Dynasty poet Su Dongpo. It's prized for its gelatinous, tender texture and sweet and savory flavors. I haven’t tried any other versions to compare with the Dongpo pork at Dongpo Impression. If you enjoy chunks of pork belly cooked until the fat melts into a soft and gelatinous clunk that’s tender than this is your type of dish. It’s deeply savory and subtly sweet and at Dongpo Impression it’s served with cubed tofu that takes on the flavor of the sauce.  

Squirrel Fish at Dongpo Impression

Dongpo Impression offers all the popular Sichuan dishes like Dry Chili Chicken, Mapo Tofu and Dan Dan Noodles but they also have a nice collection of dishes you don’t see everywhere. Some of them even come from different regions in China such as the Squirrel Fish. This is a Shanghainese dish that’s essentially a whole fried fish doused in a sweet and sour sauce. It’s typically made with a deboned whole fish with its tail still attached. The meat is scored in a cross-hatch pattern and deep fried so the flesh pokes out and curls, looking like the fluffy tail of a squirrel. It’s drenched in a glossy, sweet-and-sour sauce. The version served at Dongpo Impression is pretty good though it’s boneless and includes two pieces of flounder. But my go-to dish of late has been the Yushang Pork. It was put on my radar by John Kessler at Chicago Magazine. It’s a classic Sichuan dish featuring tender slivers of pork stir-fried in a tangy, spicy, and slightly sweet garlic sauce. The version served at Dongpo Impression also includes matchsticks of zucchini and peppers and wood ear mushrooms that absorb tons of the tangy sauce. I could eat this dish over a plate of rice for breakfast, lunch, and or dinner.

Yushang Pork

Dongpo Impression
228 W Cermak Rd
Chicago, IL 60616
(312) 842-7818
Website

Hacienda Memos Restaurante

-Grubbing in Chicago
Bargain Bites ft. Tacos de Discada in Galewood

It’s been awhile since I had a worthy taco spot to post about but I do have a few posts in the works. In the meantime I recently got reacquainted with a place that stood out back when it was operating on Grand Avenue. Hacienda Memos Restaurante has been open on North Avenue just past Oak Park Ave for three years now. They moved there from way west on Grand Avenue where they were popular for their tacos among other things. I had seen a friend post online from their current location and immediately put two and two together when I saw the tacos and Memos in the name of the place. 

Locals Favorite in Galewood

It took a little time to ride west and check out their new digs but I liked Memos when it was on Grand due to a really diverse taco selection that included tacos de discada which you don’t see in Chicago too often. Tacos de Discada are a specialty of northern Mexico in states like Chihuahua, Coahuila, Durango, and Nuevo León. They feature a mix of finely chopped meats all cooked together on a large steel plow disc ("disco") repurposed into a cooking surface over an open fire. The name comes from the cooking method rather than a recipe. Vaqueros reused worn-out plow discs to make a large outdoor griddle. Over time, the seasoned surface developed flavor, much like a well-used cast-iron skillet. Tacos de Discada typically include steak and other inexpensive cuts of meat such as bacon, chorizo, ham, and sausage mixed with onions, tomatoes, and peppers among other things. They come served on smaller tortillas and are ordered a few at a time. Memos has some other interesting tacos and they’re all under $2. The Taco de Indio is made with marinated beef and pineapple and the taco de alambre with pork, bacon, onions, green peppers and cheese. The salsas are also of note - both a green and a red plus a thicker one with roasted peppers and onions are equally spicy. 

Platter of Tacos at Hacienda Memos

Hacienda Memos Restaurante
6822 W North Ave
Chicago, IL 60707 
(773) 889-9999
Website

Fish Sandwiches in Chicago

-Grubbing in Chicago
Five of a Kind: New Fish Sandwiches on Scene

The fish sandwich continues to make a bit of a comeback. I recently did a little piece featuring four in Chicago Magazine back in February which you can see HERE. But since it was published there’s a handful of new options to be reeled in. When I named myself President of the ‘Fish Sandwich Club’ years ago I did so with the intent of making the fish sandwich popular again and I’d like to think we’ve made some strides in doing so. As of now most of the fish sandwiches around town are fried but I’ve noticed at least a few that aren’t so stay tuned for a possible run down of those later this summer. Today we’ll try five fried versions that have popped up since my Chicago Mag piece was published. 

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Mott St. (Wicker Park)

First stop might be the best of the bunch or at least the most traditional in the sense of how a fried fish sandwich is typically made. So let’s head over to Mott St. - the Asian restaurant on Ashland in Wicker Park is named after the unofficial "Main Street" of Chinatown in Manhattan. Mott St. has been around awhile now - I hadn’t visited in some time but that changed quickly when I learned they were putting out an excellent fish sandwich during brunch. It’s made with sesame panko crusted pollock, kewpie tartar, American cheese, lettuce, pickles, and a brioche bun. It’s basically an amped up version of the Filet O Fish and it’s outstanding. An immediate contender for the best fish sandwich in Chicago. 

Fish Sandwich at Mott St.
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John's Food & Wine (Lincoln Park)

Next up we head over to Lincoln Park where John’s Food & Wine on Halsted does lunch on Saturdays. The menu is small but mighty with a very good burger and an even better fish sandwich. The base is branzino and it’s panko breaded and dressed with a celery root caper slaw loaded with fresh herbs plus a kimchi ketchup on a soft and sturdy sesame seeded bun. Another contender.

Fried Fish Sandwich at John's Food & Wine
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Mirra (Bucktown)

Mirra in Bucktown is a unique restaurant on Armitage mixing the flavors of India and Mexico. If you go during brunch you can try a Skate Wing Milanesa sandwich made with panko crusted Skate Wing filet topped with fennel-lime slaw and served with sides of strawberry rhubarb achar, and a Morita crema. This is by far the most interesting of the fried fish sandwiches featured here today or anywhere in town for that matter. It’s also the largest, we split this and left pretty full. Props to them for coming up with such a unique fish sandwich. I love the idea of a fish milanesa using skate wing which is the edible pectoral fins of the skate fish, similar in size and shape to a pounded chicken breast. I thought the fish was a tad bit dry but an array of flavorful toppings helped even it out while giving off tons of exciting flavor profiles. I also appreciated the fact that it came with a really refreshing side salad. 

Skate Wing Milanesa at Mirra
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Andros Taverna (Logan Square)

Logan Square is our next destination, Andros Taverna to be specific. This bustling Greek joint on Milwaukee avenue now offers a crispy fish pita during its weekday lunch service. Crisp battered cod goes into one of the restaurants signature wood fired pitas along with a spicy aioli plus lettuce and tomato. I really liked this in big part due to the smoky and soft pita which is just about perfect. 

Crispy Fish Pita at Andros Taverna
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Bar Bambi (West Town)

Last stop takes us over to West Town where Bar Bambi opened on Chicago Avenue this past Spring. This is a hip and happening cocktail bar with an artistic atmosphere and a very good fish sandwich on the dinner menu. This is another fish sandwich modeled after the Filet O Fish starting with a fried halibut fillet dressed with American cheese, and House-made tartar sauce on a soft and squishy potato bun. It’s a textbook prep as far as the ingredients but each and every one of them is top notch.

Fish Sandwich at Bar Bambi
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See ya next time @chibbqking

Spice By CMB

-Grubbing in Chicago
Afro-Caribbean Food in Avondale

I’d been meaning to check out Spice by CMB for a while now and I was finally able to do so last week. Located in Avondale at 2853 N. Kedzie Ave., it’s the second coming of a successful catering operation led by hospitality veteran Mychael Bonner, who opened the full service restaurant last February. The menu focuses on Afro-Caribbean flavors in a modern setting. It's located in what some would call a “cursed location”. The building has hosted a few restaurants over the years and none of them seemed to stick. I’ll admit I was a bit worried about this place making it in part due to the fact it was really slow the first couple of months. But social media is still a powerful tool for restaurants and a favorable review from Infatuation created a domino effect to where it was absolutely popping on our visit. 

Recently opened in Avondale

We snagged seats at the bar which was fine by me as there was a World Cup game on the TV and the vibes were lively. Both the setup inside and the menu feel like something I would come across in South Florida (if you know you know). The food is a mix of African and Caribbean flavors thru the lens of the chef and his team. We started with a plate of crispy black eyed pea fritters which were a hit. The menu lists tomato relish and herb ranch in the description but there was also slices of fresh jalapeño giving it a bit of a Mexican vibe. These were great as far as taste but they were served lukewarm which is my only complaint. It's even priced reasonably by today’s standards at $8.90. 

Black Eyed Pea Fritters

Next up was Creole shrimp fondue which was a favorite of the Infatuation crew and now us too. This was an awesome appetizer for a group in that it’s a bowl of cheesy fondue mixed with shrimp and peppers served with a bunch of house fried plantain chips that make for a great delivery vehicle for the oozy melted cheese and shrimp mixture. For those that are reading this and questioning the pairing of shrimp and cheese I’m guessing you never had a shrimp quesadilla on the coast of Mexico. It’s actually a crazy good combination. The chips were a tad bit oily but I can get past that when they’re made from scratch like these were. Visit during Happy Hour and appetizers are even cheaper.

Creole Shrimp Fondue at Spice By CMB

As far as the entrees we both knew what we wanted as soon as we first saw the menu. For Erica it was the grilled branzino with a chermoula spice and Carolina broken rice. Chermoula is a vibrant North African sauce and relish originating from the Maghreb region. It’s basically the North African answer to chimichurri or pesto. The sauce is built on fresh herbs, citrus, and warm spices and traditionally paired with grilled seafood. At Spice By CMB they rub chermoula onto filleted branzino which is grilled and served over a bed of Carolina gold rice which is a highly prized heritage grain known for its rich history and exceptional culinary versatility. Two thumbs up from the both of us. 

Grilled Branzino

I rarely eat oxtail in Chicago unless making it for myself. But that’s because I don’t see it on menus often. I usually get my oxtail fix in South Florida where it’s much more common. So I knew what I was getting as soon as I saw braised oxtail on offer. They served me three meaty pieces that fell right off the bone alongside brussels sprouts and cassava dumplings, all of it sitting in a dark and delicious Caribbean style brown gravy. This was everything I was hoping it would be. The dumplings are a bit chewy and somewhat sweet Caribbean style dumplings made from grated cassava root. I also tried a side of the Jollof rice which is a dish known to create more arguments than most as far as how it’s supposed to be made. I’m far from an expert but I enjoyed this version. It was fresh and fluffy full of spice. They do brunch on Sundays and offer a fried Jollof rice with spam dish that has my name on it.

Braised Oxtail at Spice By CMB

Spice By CMB
2853 N Kedzie Ave
Chicago, IL 60618
(773) 654-3376
Website

Bánh Mì Ông Mười

-Grubbing in Chicago
Bargain Bites ft. Banh Mi in North Park

Apologies on the lack of posts of late. I’ve been really busy but I’m also kind of running out of spots I want to post about (that I've been to). Then there’s the whole inflation thing and how expensive it’s become to dine out regularly. So with that I’ve decided to add a cheap eats feature where I showcase some places that won’t break the bank. First up is a one year old Banh Mi sandwich spot up north.  

Recently Opened in North Center

Bánh Mì Ông Mười opened last summer at 6257B N McCormick in the North Park neighborhood. I was able to communicate with the old man on my initial visit, he told me that he’s from Southern Vietnam and they make Southern style Bahn Mi. What’s the difference between a south style and a north style Banh Mi? Well according to some digging I did in the South they use a wider and airier baguette with a very light, crispy crust that produces lots of crumbs. Also the fillings in the South are said to be more abundant and diverse. The sandwiches down there feature grilled pork, shredded chicken, meatballs, sardines, and multiple variations of cold cuts. That said I didn’t notice a major difference in the style of Banh Mi being served at Bánh Mì Ông Mười. What I did notice was some of the best French bread I’ve had in Chicago being used - it’s crisp and light and baked on site ($8.95). 

Banh Mi Dac Biet at Bánh Mì Ông Mười

I always go with a Dac Biet as far as gauging the quality of a Banh Mi store. Dac Biet means “special” in Vietnamese. In terms of a Banh Mi it’s the original version made with cold cuts and pork liver pate. The fillings on this one weren’t abundant like they say the Banh Mi in Saigon are but they were of quality and the taste was terrific. They recently added pho to an otherwise tight menu made up of mostly sandwiches but they also have packaged stuff like rice paper rolls on the counter. Nhu Lan has held the title of 'Best Banh Mi in Chicago’ for some time but this place is just as good, if not better.

Banh Mi Dac Biet

Bánh Mì Ông Mười
6257B N McCormick Blvd
Chicago, IL 60659
(773) 754-0731
Website

Shrimp Tempura in Chicago

-Grubbing in Chicago(land)
Five of a Kind: Shrimp Tempura Run

Picking a favorite dish is an impossible task for someone like me who has way too many favorites to even remember them all in one swoop let alone pick just one. But I will say shrimp tempura would make a list of my 100 favorite dishes. It wasn’t always this way but after going to Japan back in 2019 I fell in love with tempura in general and I’ve been trying to find a suitable spot in Chicago to feed those temptations. Tempura has a fascinating cross-cultural history tracing back to Iberian Catholic fasting practices taken to the streets of Edo-era Japan via Jesuits and traders from Portugal who introduced the Japanese to batter and deep frying techniques. In Japan tempura can come in more ways than I can name. It can be a humble dish served over rice (Ten Don) or it can come with a show in the form of an omakase. I’ve long thought Chicago would be a perfect spot to open a tempura omakase experience as people in the Midwest love fried foods but it hasn’t happened yet. When it does I’ll be one of the first people there but for now here’s five spots I’ve visited in search of good tempura. 

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Omakase Shoji & Izakaya (Chicago)

It seems as though most of the decent tempura options are found in the Northwest suburbs but Omakase Shoji & Izakaya is the exception. This West Town sushi spot is supposed to have a very good omakase ($210) but I haven’t had the chance to try it. But they also have a little Izakaya setup in the front room and that I have done. We tried a handful of classic Izakaya dishes including a very good shrimp and vegetable tempura appetizer that hits the spot at a very fair price. It’s lightly battered and has a nice crunch to it. For now, this is the best shrimp tempura I’ve found within city limits. 

Shrimp Tempura at Omakase Shoji
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Tenjin (Lincolnwood)

Next we head north to Lincolnwood where Tenjin (formerly Renga Tei) has served Chicagoland’s Japanese-American community since 1991. The transition from Renga-Tei to Tenjin occurred after a husband and wife duo from Fukuoka, Japan, took over the business back in 2023. They operated as Renga-Tei for roughly a year before rebranding the business to Tenjin (named after a vibrant food district in their hometown of Fukuoka). The menu here is a what's what of Japanese food in the form of sushi, udon, teriyaki, katsu, tempura and so forth. They have daily specials too and it’s a popular stop with Japanese families in the area. I usually get the Yaki Udon or a chicken teriyaki bento box but I tried the Ten Don on a recent visit. Ten-Don refers to a shrimp tempura (ten) bowl (don is short for donburi). The Ten Don at Tenjin comes with two shrimps and a handful of standard vegetables like pepper, onions, and zucchini. Some of the veggies were crisp while others were soft likely due to the way they were placed on the mound of white rice. Ten Don is typically served with a tempura sauce made up of soy sauce, mirin, sake and more but there was none served with this. I like all forms of shrimp tempura so I enjoyed this for what it was but I was hoping for a little more in terms of quality. 

Shrimp Tempura Bowl (tendon) at Tenjin
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Daruma Restaurant (Schaumburg)

Moving onto Schaumburg where you’ll find a trio of tempura options. First up is Daruma. This place has been serving Japanese food since the 80’s. It’s developed a reputation among Japanese expatriates living in the northwest suburbs. They’re known for their sushi and Japanese spaghetti among many other things. I visited one night a few years back and they weren’t doing sushi due to some sort of equipment gaffe so I pivoted to the shrimp tempura bowl. Not bad at all. I liked how the shrimps and all the vegetables had good crunch despite tempura sauce being poured on top. Not the best I’ve had but it hit the spot for sure. Do make sure to try their Yoshoku style spaghetti though. 

Shrimp Tempura Bowl (tendon) at Daruma
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Tempura Man (Schaumburg)

Staying in Schaumburg we’ll head over to a new tempura spot from the guy behind the Chicago Ramen brand. Kenta Ikehata is a Japanese chef who trained and worked at the acclaimed Tokyo ramen shop Tsujita before helping open and manage Tsujita's first U.S. location in Los Angeles. He later moved to the Chicago area (first location was in Des Plaines) and launched Chicago Ramen, bringing Tsujita-style tonkotsu ramen and tsukemen to the Midwest. Tempura Man is the latest project by Kenta Ikehata. The concept grew out of his desire to create a restaurant focused almost entirely on freshly fried tempura, something that's surprisingly rare in the Chicago area. The restaurant is built around a comic-book superhero character called "Tempura Man" - a caped hero flying through the air on a giant shrimp tempura. I stopped by a couple weeks ago and noticed little stickers for a free item in front and I grabbed one and sat down. I asked the waiter what the little piece of paper got me and he told me I could try anything I wanted off the menu. So basically I ate for free (I did buy a beer). I chose the shrimp tempura udon platter and it was pretty good. I thought the tempura could’ve been hotter but it hit the spot in a way tempura always does. Note: Torizen is yet another tempura option in Schaumburg and likely the best of the bunch - click here to see a previous report on that place.

Shrimp Tempura Udon Set at Tempura Man
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Tendon Tempura Carlos Jr (Arlington Heights)

Final stop takes us to Arlington Heights where you’ll find the areas best tempura spot stationed inside Mitsuwa Market. The Japanese grocery store stays packed with people shopping for Japanese groceries and also people looking to eat at one of the handful of food stalls found inside the market.  A critically acclaimed tempura chain out of the Los Angeles area opened there last year. I’d been waiting for a tempura donburi specialist (tendon) to open in Chicagoland so I didn’t hesitate taking the ride out to Tempura Carlos Jr. to see what was up. Since it was a Saturday the place was packed though despite that the line wasn’t that long and they were moving it quite fast. I tried the ‘Edomae Tendon’ which is two pieces of fried shrimp, kakiage, conger eel, shishito pepper, pumpkin, seaweed and soft boiled egg. All of which is dunked in a house tare sauce which is a thin umami rich heavily concentrated seasoning sauce. The sauce seeps into the white rice creating a delicious second meal of sorts after finishing off tempura. As of now this is the best tempura you’ll find in Chicagoland.

Edomae Tendon at Tendon Tempura Carlos Jr.
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See ya next time @chibbqking 

Asian Homecook

-Grubbing in Chicago
Rohingya Style Malaysian Food in West Ridge

Grub is the main focus here but before we get to the food and flavors of Asian Homecook on Devon I have to give a rundown of what led to the recent opening of this family run Rohingya restaurant. The Rohingya crisis remains one of the world’s worst humanitarian disasters. More than a million refugees live in overcrowded camps in Bangladesh after fleeing persecution in Myanmar, while those still in the Rakhine State face ongoing violence and severe restrictions. With global aid declining and dangerous sea crossings increasing, humanitarian groups continue urging greater international support and a long term political solution to this persecution. Malaysia is also one of the major destinations for Rohingya refugees in SE Asia as it’s a Muslim-majority country and there’s existing Rohingya communities there that can help with jobs in informal sectors. Malaysia is where the family behind Asian Homecook fled Myanmar before moving to Chicago which hosts one of the largest Rohingya communities in the country. The Rohingya Culture Center on Devon is at the center of that. The community nonprofit was founded in 2016 to support Rohingya refugees who resettled in Chicago. The center provides day-to-day services like ESL class, job support, case management, youth programs, and navigating healthcare and public services. It also acts as a cultural hub where families can stay connected to language, food traditions, and community life while rebuilding in the U.S. 

Rohingya Culture Center of Chicago (2740 W Devon)

I started to notice a few Rohingya owned grocers on and off of Devon the past few years so it was only a matter of time until a Rohingya restaurant opened which is where Asian Homecook comes back into the picture. It opened about two months ago, but you wouldn’t know it if just driving by as the sign from the previous business is still up. There’s a small sticker on the door and a picture of some dishes but there's not much else to let you know this is no longer an Indian kebab restaurant. 

Asian Homecook

On my visit it looked like a nice sized crowd of locals, older and younger, have embraced this place. The menu is made up of four sections (all Halal) starting with roti flatbread. Roti was brought to British Malaya by South Indian Tamil Muslim immigrants in the early 20th century, evolving from Indian parotta. An order of Roti Telur (egg roti) is a great starting point here. It’s made by stretching dough really thin, cracking an egg, and folding it into a square parcel, and pan-frying it until crispy. Asian Homecook serves their Roti Telur with a soothing lentil curry and a vibrant sambal chili sauce.

Roti Telur

Fried (goreng) noodles (mee) are another focal point. An order of ‘Mee Goreng Mamak’ was everything I love about stir fried noodles. Originating from the Indian-Muslim (Mamak) community, yellow egg noodles are stir-fried over a high heat and deliver a sweet, savory, and spicy flavor profile, achieved by tossing the noodles in sambal, soy sauces, spices. The Mee Goreng Mamak at Asian Homecook is a large and spicy portion with tofu, crisp veggies and crunchy chilis for just $7.

Mee Goreng Mamak at Asian Homecook

Fried Rice (Nasi) makes up the final section of food options (there's also a drinks page). Early reviews online point to Nasi Goreng Kampung aka Village Fried Rice. Nasi Goreng Kampung is a beloved, savory and spicy Southeast Asian dish featuring day-old rice tossed with rustic ingredients like pounded shallots, garlic, bird’s-eye chilies, shrimp paste, and crispy fried anchovies and it typically comes topped with a fried egg. The friendly English speaking waitress also recommended this dish as her personal favorite so I wasn’t going to pass it up. Unlike other fried rice variations, Village Fried Rice is extremely savory with a distinct umami punch and extra spice. The use of belacan (fermented shrimp paste) gives this dish a rich and extra aromatic flavor profile that pairs perfectly with the salty crunch of tiny dried anchovies. Diced chicken is included in the version at Asian Homecook but it’s basically a filler. The flavor, and there’s a ton of it in this dish, comes from all of the other stuff. 

Nasi Goreng Kampung aka Village Fried Rice

The most interesting options seem to be the daily specials showcased on their Instagram. That’s where I first learned about one of Malaysia’s most recognizable dishes - Nasi Kerabu. This vibrant blue colored rice dish comes from the the east coast states of Kelantan and Terengganuz. It's made with a delicately floral rice turned indigo blue by steeping it in a water made of bunga telang (butterfly-pea flower). It’s commonly served with fresh herbs, crispy fish crackers, and different proteins like fried chicken and fish plus a sweet and spicy coconut sauce. Wow I thought - this is one of the most vibrant dishes I've ever come across. I would be surprised to learn you can find this dish anywhere else in the city as Malaysian food is pretty scarce in these parts and the one spot we do have is Peranakan, an entirely different group with different origins, food cultures, and geographic locations. My visit to Asian Homecook reminded me of two things. The first was how despite all its flaws just how privileged it is to be born in the USA. The second thing was I really need to go to Malaysia which sits near the top of my bucketlist. The food is a vibrant, mouth-watering reflection of its multicultural society, blending Malay, Chinese, and Indian flavors with spices, chilies, coconut cream. It's said the people are warm, exceptionally hospitable, and famously united by their deep, shared passion for eating, socializing, and celebrating their diversity. A meal at Asian Homecook feels like a sneak peek. 

Nasi Kerabu

Asian Homecook
2739 W Devon Ave
Chicago, IL 60659
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International Eats in Albany Park

-Grubbing in Chicago
Five of a Kind: Albany Park Eats

Somebody on Twitter (I’m not calling it X) recently tweeted that “ethnic food” is better in the suburbs than it is in the city. There’s not many (if any) people out there more qualified than me to speak on this and it’s not. It's only true of a few cuisines. Chinese, Mexican, Thai etc is still way better in city. Some burbs do have some good mom + pop spots but it’s all scattered. Bridgeview has great Middle Eastern food but it’s nowhere near Wheeling where people think Pita Inn is the same thing (it’s not). What’s true is that there’s a ton of interesting spots to be found in the burbs but it’s so spread out to where it’s not really comparable. Somebody that lives in Chicago Heights doesn’t have the same options as someone from Morton Grove. But people in Highland Park don’t have close to what the folks of Niles have. You can do the same with the city in terms of the there being more options on the North Side than the South Side but the city is much more condensed when it comes to restaurants. Albany Park alone clears any suburb in a one on one matchup which takes us to this week’s post. Here’s five semi recently opened international dining options I’ve tried in Albany Park of late. 

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Xotikka

First stop is a very new spot at 4749 N Pulaski. It’s so new that Xotikka doesn’t have a sign up yet (Mahi’s Kitchen was the previous tenet). This is an efficient one man operation making some fantastic Indian sandwiches. The first menu item listed is Vada Pav, a Mumbai favorite that spread across India and has really started to take the States by storm too. Vada Pav is a spiced potato patty in a fluffy bun, accompanied by chutneys and sometimes cheese if you please. The potato patty, or vada, is mashed potatoes, herbs, and chickpea flour batter, and deep-fried until golden brown. It's placed in a pav, a soft, savory bun similar to a kaiser roll. I had to get one of these on my first visit as it’s the most mentioned menu item in the few online reviews and I always like a Vada Pav when I get one. This was bigger than any other I tried but still a very good deal at $8 with Amul cheese. The potato fritter was perfectly fried to where the exposed part was crunchy while the inside was soft and super flavorful with a nice and spicy profile. Mint chutney and the option to add cheese plus a well toasted sesame seeded bun round it all out. This was a very good version that filled me up right. I chose to add cheese but it’s shredded and not melted and didn’t really give off any clues that it was being used so I’d skip it. I’ll be going back for one of their Indian chicken sandwiches made in a variety of ways. 

Vada Pav at Xotikka
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Tikal Sabor Chapin

Next we’ll shoot over to 3216 W Lawrence street which is home to one of two spots serving the cuisine of Guatemala in these parts. The Central American country has a very interesting cuisine revolving around Mayan and Spanish traditions characterized by hearty stews, corn-based staples, and mild spices. The menu here is a what's what of Guatemalan favorites including ceviche, fried chicken and even stir fried chow mein noodles as “Chino-Chapin” food is very popular with Guatemalans. The trend began with Chinese immigration in the late 1800s, with immigrant-run food stalls, known as kodores chinos, becoming popular at local fairs. But first things first was an order of the Garnachas - a popular Mesoamerican dish found in both Mexican and Guatemalan cuisine, with distinct regional variations. The ones at Tikal Sabor are made with little puffs of fried masa topped with carne molida, sauteed onions, salsa and a sprinkle of cotija cheese with a vinegar cole slaw. These delicious one bite snacks pack a big punch of flavor. I could’ve easily ate two more plates. The chow mein was also tasty though pretty much something most people can make at home. 

Garnachas at Tikal Sabor Chapin
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Zaab E Lee

Zaab-E-Lee Thai Street Food opened at 3121 Lawrence last winter and immediately started to garner buzz. I visited on one of the coldest days of the year in hopes of warming up with some Isan style Thai food but it was a bit of a mixed bag. First we’ll start with the duds which were a bowl of seafood Tom Yum that had nothing distinct in taste and only came with shrimp. I felt like we might’ve been gringo’d (given the milder version) which sucks is still a thing. A plate of Crying Tiger wasn’t any better in fact it was worse. The steak was a cheap and chewy cut served at room temp. The winners were a very good plate of Sai Oua that was some of the better Thai style sausage I’ve had in Chicago and an order of the Moo Ping with Sticky Rice which was served piping hot off the grill with a very nice smokiness going for it. I might go back and try a few other things that have been propped up at places like Infatuation and r/ChicagoFood but for now I have to agree with Steve Dolinsky - it’s a mixed bag.

Moo Ping at Zaab-E-Lee
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My Doner

Let's head west to 3806 W Lawrence where My Doner has been serving spit sliced Doner since last summer. Turkish style Doner is the original spit roasted meat traced back to the Ottoman Empire (modern-day Turkey) during the 19th century, when vertical cooking was common in the 1830s-1850s. I stopped in around the time they first opened and got a pretty good beef Doner wrap. Not the best not the worst. They’ve since added a “Berlin style Doner Sandwich” to the menu but it’s not going to change your mind about there not being any great Berlin style Doner options in Chicagoland. It’s a good sandwich but it’s lacking in the toppings department and is far from stuffed like the ones in Europe. 

Doner Wrap from My Doner
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Katkout

Last stop takes us to 4734 N Kedzie for more spit roasted meat. Katkout opened last winter in a packed little strip mall that also houses a new Yemeni coffee shop. The menu here has some typical things with shawarma and falafel being popular on top of options like a zinger sandwich and even some less typical dishes like Middle Eastern offal sandwiches. I asked the friendly guy about the offal but he didn’t have any ready to go yet. So instead I tried the “Krispy Shawarma” which is a bit of a viral dish at the moment. Unfortunately what I got was typical “Arab style” in that it was sliced into bite sized pieces and served with fries. I believe the owner is Syrian making this a Syrian style shawarma. It hit the spot but didn’t stand out outside the pricing which was $10 with fries and a drink - good deal.

Arab Style Chicken Shawarma at Katkout
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See ya next time @chibbqking