Eating BIG in Hong Kong

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties

- Exploring "Asia's World City"

After finding a fantastic deal on airfare to Beijing it was time to decide where else we wanted to go while there. We gave serious thought to Seoul which is just a two hour flight but we ended up crossing one off that was high on the bucketlist. If we were going to be in China then we weren't going to be too far from Hong Kong. A spot long on my hit list. So the decision was a pretty easy one.

Sights from Hong Kong

Hong Kong is one of those cities that all experienced travelers have a story about. One of the worlds great cities has seen some slight change since the British gave it back to China. For example English is now the second language though you wouldn't be able to tell it's not the first. This is Asia but it's probably the most North American city in all of Asia. It's their NYC. Hong Kong is a city of over seven million which is comparable to NYC's population of 8.5 million. In fact Hong Kong is considered a small Chinese city in terms of population. Most Chinese cities have +20 million.

 More Sights from Hong Kong

Part of the reason it feels so Western here is they don't abide to the same rules as Mainland China. So you need not worry about being unable to access Google or other social media sites like Facebook. Hong Kong is a very savvy social media city. Pretty much all of it's residents are on it. Which makes a for a nice fix of old and new which is a constant throughout the city. I cant imagine what it looked like 30 years ago and that's bc it was a totally different place. Today it's the center of commerce in Asia. A city studded with skyscrapers as far as the eyes can see. I loved how you could walk into a 100 year old shop where they're still making egg noodles by hand. Then you walk out and you're engulfed by high rises housing department stores and such. Old and new blends well.

  More Sights from Hong Kong

Bc Hong Kong is probably one of the most instagrammed cities in the world you don't have to worry about guide books and such. There's literally chapters on end as far as information. Usually I don't mention lodging etc in my posts but I'd be remisssed not to mention The Hotel Murray. Easily one of the best hotels we've ever stayed in. I suggest taking as strong look as it's location on the island is pretty much the center of it all. There's higher percentage of luxury spots on the mainland but if you want to be in the middle of it all this is your spot. The other side isn't nearly as exciting as far as everyday life. So while there were spots I wanted to try on both sides the island had more of them. Getting around is pretty easy. I loved the old school cabs which were spacious and made me feel like I was in an old Bruce Lee movie. They're cheaper than Ubers and they all seem to know the city well.

 More Sights from Hong Kong

Speaking of food. There's so much of it. And it's not all Chinese. In fact they have it all. Pretty much every dish that has a following in Asia can be found here. On top of all that Hong Kong has it's own kind of cuisine that was formed during British rule. Not to mention all the classic Cantonese spots. I didn't get to try it all. For example we wanted to get some roast goose on the last day but we arrived to an absurd line at the famous Kam's. But one thing you can count on is the food will be memorable. The only problem is knowing where to start. I did hours and hours of research and still barely scratched the surface. That said I was able to put together a nice little guide for those headed to Hong Kong. My only piece of advice is don't skip out on the local mom and pop shops in favor of the fancier hotel restaurants. The best spots as always are those frequented by the locals. Let's roll.

 More Sights from Hong Kong

________________________________________________________________________

 Mak's Noodle

First stop up was one of the most anticipated. Do to it's close proximity to our hotel I made it our first order of business. Mak is originally from Guangzhou and his son opened a Hong Kong location in 1968. These day's Mak's has multiple locations most of which are run by descendants of the namesake. Known for having some of the best wonton noodle soup in the world but also known for what locals deem a super small bowl that cost damn near double compared to the other spots. It's not that they don't think it's good but some question whether it's twice as good as other places around town. After all Hong Kong is pretty much the center of the wonton soup world. Well that's partly do to the wonton soup served at Mak's. It's Michelin rated which means lots of tourists like myself come calling and none of us should have a problem paying the up-cost bc 1) they blast the AC keeping the inside nice and cool and 2) you probably haven't had better. The wontons are perfect.

Wonton Noodle Soup at Mak's

________________________________________________________________________

 Tsim Chai Kee

Across the street from Mak's is a spot called Tsim Chai Kee. They share a Pat's and Geno's Cheesesteak and a Lafayette and American Coney style rivalry. Tsim Chai Kee opened in the 90’s and immediately became known for their wontons which were about twice the size as Mak’s. Same goes for the bowl of noodles. The signature dish from here includes wontons, beef brisket, fish balls, egg noodles in broth. I was skeptical of all that other stuff but I always make sure to try the signature dish and this was it. My skepticism was warranted I didn't care much for the tough brisket nor the fish cake ball. Both of which took away space from the delicious wontons. Good but not Mak's good.

Wonton Noodle Soup at Tsim Chai Kee

________________________________________________________________________

 Shari Shari Kakigori

After a short time walking around the area and a failure to find a dim sum I wanted to try we needed to cool down. With Shari Shari Kakigori House nearby we got to do exactly that. Icy desserts are having a moment right now which means you can find them all over Hong Kong. One of the best ways you can cool down is Japanese Kakigori which is their version of shaved ice. Shari Shari claims they make their Japanese ice with water from Hokkaido. So they say the water quality there is 2nd to none. Honestly at that point right then and there I wouldn’t care if it was made with water from Flint. Anything to beat the heat. Well this was exactly what I needed. Finely shaved ice is loaded with fresh strawberry puree which is standard for kakigori. The Japanese don't fuck with artificial flavors.

Starberry Kakigori at Shari Shari Kakigori 

________________________________________________________________________

 Cheung Hing Kee Shanghai Pan-Fried Buns

What a delight it was when I randomly found a location of the spot at the very top of my hit list. I had initially thought the only location of Cheung Hing Kee Shanghai Pan-Fried Buns was across the Bay on the mainland. So I had it planned for a food crawl the following day but got them out of the way right away. Which makes it sound like I was dreading them but I most certainly was not. This was after all my first chance to try real deal Sheng Jian Bao aka pan fried pork buns. Think of them as a lightly fried soup dumpling. Something we do not have access to in Chicago or really anywhere in America from what I hear. You can find them but they wont be as good as these. So they say you may find better in Shanghai but this spot is about as good as it gets outside of there. The family that owns Cheung Hing came to HK from Shanghai. These too are Michelin rated which is probably why you can find more than one location. Easily the best dumplings of the trip and most likely my life.

Sheng Jian Bao at Cheung Hing Kee Shanghai Pan-Fried Buns

________________________________________________________________________

Tai Cheong Bakery

The Egg Tart is a well traveled pastry. Originally of Portuguese descent it's settled in almost as many places as the Chinese themselves have. Hong Kong, along with Macau, are two spots where the egg tart is very popular. For many Hong Konger's these are a trip back to childhood. That said they make them a bit differently in each region where they're famous. This from an online article I found " In terms of crust, it’s important to note that Hong Kong egg tarts come in two varieties: the cookie crust (曲奇皮), which is dense like a pumpkin pie crust, and the flaky crust (酥皮), which is very layered and crumbly. Both of these crust variations are distinct from the Portuguese egg tart crust which has a larger flake and bears similarity to the outer layers of a croissant. If you look closely, the layers of the crust of a Portuguese egg tart forms concentric circles around the filling." Searching for HK's best egg tart will leave you with endless options so I just threw a few in my maps and made sure to stop by one of them when I was near. Tai Cheong Bakery was the winner. Open since 1954 this was one of those spots where you could get a glimspe into old Hong Kong just by walking in. It was awesome.

Egg Tart from Tai Cheong Bakery

________________________________________________________________________

 Yardbird

As far as specific foods go yakitori is right up there as far as my favorites. I crave it daily. Unfortunately it's not possible to eat it everyday in Chicago. So I like to make sure to get my fix when I have the chance. Yardbird is one of Hong Kong's hottest restaurants and yakitori is their jam. The Japanese art of grilling is best with the chicken where no piece or part is left behind. Every last piece of skin and organ is used to make some of the best tasting grilled meats that man can consume. It's a skill that takes great practice which is why it's not as common as other forms of grilling. Well the folks behind Yardbird did their homework. But I'm by no means an expert as I've never really met a yakitori skewer that I disliked. My absolute favorite is the oyster which is a round piece of dark meat located on the back by the thigh bone. The name comes from its shape but could also be attributed to the fact it explodes when you bite it just like an oyster would. The Japanese say this is the juiciest bite of the chicken and one that should never be thrown out. Especially not when you can get $5 for one grilled over some extremely hot coals. Other favorites include the tail, wing tip, Ume thigh, knee.

Yakitori at Yardbird

________________________________________________________________________

Kwann Kee Claypot Rice

After a flurry of yakitori we walked over for the other half of our dinner. I had made sure to save room for some claypot rice from Kwann Kee. This little dive is a locals favorite and they were out and eating on our visit around 9p. We ended up waiting for about 20 minutes as the main dinner rush finished up. Kwann Kee is your typical HK greasy spoon diner. By which I mean to say if stuff like someone walking out of the kitchen shirtless is a big turnoff - stick to your hotel restaurant. Both the stir fries and the claypot rice are why you're here so try and remember that you'll be treated to some classic Hong Kong comfort food. We got an order of the rice which is made to order so allow for 20 minutes. Kwann Kee uses three different rices which cook in a claypot in an oven until the bottom is crispy. The meat options for your bowl are long but there's only a couple seafood selections. I thought the white eel was awesome and the perfect compliment to the crispy rice which was really good as is but even better with the little bowl of sauce that comes with each order. It's some pretty magical stuff.

Claypot Rice with White Eel at Kwann Kee Claypot Rice

________________________________________________________________________

Sing Heung Yuen

I'd read that this spot was one of the few remaining old school Dai Pai Dongs in Hong Kong where they specialized in Tomato Noodle and Crispy Toasts. It's highly rated among the locals who soon appeared right after they opened. I wasn't exactly seeking out the locally loved tomato soup. But when I stopped at another spot nearby and they weren't going to have food ready for another hour I decided to walk over here. I was the first person seated and I was able to communicate through a picture that I wanted a bowl of tomato noodle soup. I'm not a big tomato soup guy so this wasn't something I loved but it was oddly satisfying though I couldn't quite pinpoint why. Hangover cure?

Tomato Noodle Soup with a fried egg at Sing Heung Yuen

________________________________________________________________________

Ding Dim 1968

After an unsuccessful attempt at dim sum on day one we went over for some after a trip on the Peak Tram. Ding Dim 1968 is one of about 100 dim sum parlors that seemed worth trying. It wasn't a must stop so to say but getting some dim sum was a must so we went bc it was close. The menu is traditional dim sum that has a bit of a contemporary twist. The chef is the younger owners uncle. The old man makes the food which he's been doing since 1968. There's three items I'll always order if I see them on a dim sum menu. The first one being pan fried rice roll. Here that comes with XO sauce and lots of chili flakes. Fantastic. Next up is Hargow aka shrimp dumplings. These were pristine which I'd read they would be. Rated among the best in the city by many bloggers. Last but not least is the dim sum classic shrimp siumai. They offer them with black truffle for show if that's how you roll.

Dim Sum at Ding Dim 1968

________________________________________________________________________

Three Potatoes

We made our way across the harbour on the Star Fairy to the mainland. There were plenty of spots on my list that I had wanted to hit on this side. But damn was it hot. We got off to a semi rough start when after trying to find Three Potatoes for 15 minutes we finally found it only to find they no longer had the hash brown bowl I had come for. I know what's up with hash browns in Hong Kong? Why? Well they were Michelin rated (big whoop) and I saw a bloggers post about this dish and it looked legit. Like the type of thing I would eat no matter where I was. Hash browns are an art and apparently those from here are now a coveted piece of it. I did try the fries and I will say they were pretty great.

Wedge Fries at Three Potatoes

________________________________________________________________________

Sun Kee Cheese Noodle

Here's another spot that took us a good 20 minutes to find. If you know ahead of time that you need to go into a building which is the less modern one of the two within question of where it's marked on google maps it should be easier to find. Look for said awning up above. The walls are lined with pics of local TV stars who stopped by. Sun Kee Cheese Noodle has a cult following. It's members bow down to the cheesy noodles and pork neck. This is one of those dishes that can be very polar. It's made with instant noodles and the cheese is the salty processed stuff. But pork cheek meat isn't cheap nor abundant so you're going to pay around $7 US for a bowl of instant noodles. The jowl meat is lean but it's binded by a layer of fat that when cooked low and slow becomes nice and tender and then full of flavor when grilled. This was a guilty pleasure bowl of noodles that I wouldn't say I loved but I would definitely enjoy a couple times a year when the taste for mac and cheese came calling.

Cheesy Noodles with Pork Neck at Sun Kee Cheese Noodle

________________________________________________________________________

 Kau Kee

Closing in on 100 years of service has made Kau Kee one of the most famous restaurants in Hong Kong. Their specialty is brisket which is big in HK. They're well known for two dishes which are brisket in clear broth with your choice of noodles and also brisket and tendon curry. If this is your first trip you cant skip the curry tendon. It holds a wonderfully fragrant curry broth that's more like the consistency of gravy. It's both rich and meaty and it will have you slurping noodles like there's no tomorrow. This was one of my favorites from the trip. How come the most comforting cold weather foods come from warm ass places? Who knows but I'll be craving this daily come February.

Curry Tendon at Kau Kee 

________________________________________________________________________

 The Chairman

For those that were unaware I can clean up pretty nicely too. Dinner at the Chairman was going to be our "nice" dinner out. One of Asia’s best restaurants according to the people the worlds 50 Best. But that’s not why we went. I don’t give much credence to lists. Instead I pay attention to those I know share the same passion as I do when it comes to food. So when an internet food friend (@brian_eng) rec’d this spot it was a no-brainer for me. As soon as I saw their signature dish I made a reservation. Steamed Fresh Flowery Crab with Aged ShaoXing Wine, Fragrant Chicken Oil, and Flat Rice Noodles was money. Literally. As it’s a triple figure dish in US dollars. Not to be outdone the wild clams with chile jam and basil were also extremely fresh and flavorful. But the thing is if I'm being honest not as flavorful as some of the mom and pop spots. You're here for the quality of the ingredients. Crispy Enoki 'shrooms and spicy peppercorn king prawns rounded out a meal I’ll be posting about at years end when my annual year end Best Of... list hits the word wide web.

Fried Enoki Mushrooms

Wild Clams with Chile Jam at the Chairman

Peppercorn King Prawns

Steamed Fresh Flowery Crab with Aged ShaoXing Wine, Fragrant Chicken Oil, and Flat Rice Noodles at The Chairman

My plate after the waiter split it up for us

________________________________________________________________________

 Tim Ho Wan

Tim Ho Wan is a very famous local chain. Internationally famous in fact. There was a time when they were considered the cheapest Michelin starred restaurant in the world but that was before they released their Singapore guide. Dimsum is the company's specialty. It can be found in over ten countries including the USA however so they say it's better in it's homeland. Hong Kong has a handful of Tim Ho Wan locations including this one in the main train terminal. It was busy but we were able to walk in and order within minutes. The kitchen is packed with workers who are making what seems to be endless supply of dimsum for a steady stream of customers. Aside from my two regular go-to dimsum items we had to try the famous pan fried turnip cakes and their most popular item the pork buns. Awesome stuff, all of it, but as always it was the hargow and siumai I liked most.

Dimsum at Tim Ho Wan

_______________________________________________________________________

 Yuk Kin Fast Food

I had high hopes for this locally loved fast food shack that also got the nod from Mark Wiens aka Migrationology. Yuk Kin is a typical family run HK style fast food shack. They set up in a col-de-sac each day and feed the masses of construction workers and such. They make a bunch of classics with their fried rice being one of the most popular plates. Mark Wiens recommended the curry fried rice and made sure to mention to add a fried egg for extra measure. I was excited for this bc a good plate of fried rice can be extra special. Usually it takes a place like Yuk Kin to find that special fried rice but this kind of missed the mark. It was good but not the life changing fried rice I was hoping for.

Curry Fried Rice at Yuk Kin Fast Food

________________________________________________________________________

Home. Dumpling 

I found Home. Dumpling when searching around for where to find the best what else? Dumplings. It's a small store with a few seats in the window on a street right off a main downtown strip. There's a handful of spots worth checking out it seems. I tried a mango smoothie from the drink vendor next door to this shop and it rocked. Here you can see them making dumplings right there in the open kitchen. In fact these weren't made until I ordered them. I love me some classic pork and leek. They made a really flavorful filling and did a pretty good fry job so these were up there for best dumps. I have a love for potstickers and if you do too you might as well head here for a classic example.

Fried Dumplings at Home. Dumpling

________________________________________________________________________

Kukuro Izakaya

Hong Kong has any and everything that's trendy so Japanese food is abundant. This hip izakaya is from a local restaurant team that gets lots of respect from the locals. It's name means owl which is one of the nights most graceful creatures. Their menu is a showcase of Japanese drinking den favorites all of which are meant to be enjoyed amongst each other. So go in expecting to get at least three things. You can count on all of them to be enjoyable but of the four dishes we tried the three fish tartare and the caramel corn were the clear winners with the snow crab yaki udon being a close second and the karaage being just ok. The caramel corn was pretty much what it sounded like except it wasn't fresh popped caramel corn. They halved corn on the cob and then lightly fried it with a caramel coating. The type of plate that makes for a sig-dish that pretty much everyone orders.

Izakaya Food at Fukuro

________________________________________________________________________

Restaurant Yu

One night I wandered in a cab over at a very popular strip of streets for nighttime dining. The options were overwhelming but luckily I went prepared. The first spot I stopped at was called Yu making it a pretty hard find as far as info on on it in particular. But it was in my google maps guide with this note that I must've found somewhere online. "Traditionally, street vendors who sold this dish to passersby carried their ingredients in two baskets attached to either end of a pole called a "dan dan". At Yu, these thin spaghetti-like noodles are served in two separate bowls - one with the noodles, mixed with spring onions and minced pork, the other with Sichuan chicken, in a chilli and lemon grass sauce. It's this herbal offset that makes Yu's version a stand-out, refining the spice into a clean, dry burn that leaves the lips delightfully numb." Yu is the owners name and he hails from the Sichuan Province. As you might imagine I was really taken aback by how good his dandan noodle soup was. The noodles in particular were really crave-worthy. This is a dish worth going to China and eating. One day I'll do so in it's natural habitat but in the meantime I was very pleased with my decision to stop here.

DanDan Noodles at Restaurant Yu

________________________________________________________________________

Mysterious Soup Dumpling Shop

This was a spot that wasn't on my list but must've been very near the last stop. I went in after seeing the guys making soup dumplings in the windows. Inside the walls are lined with articles from publications across China naming their soup dumplings this and that. How do I not stop in and get an order? Especially when I missed my opportunity at a spot high on my list earlier. I got the pork and crab option and of course they were good but I'll be honest and admit I've had better in the States. I think the fact the night was winding down here may have played in a role in them being over steamed.

Xioa Long Bao at mysterious XLB spot 

________________________________________________________________________

For Kee Restaurant

One of my favorite plates of food was found as this classic Hong Kong diner that was basically engraved into the high-rises. For Kee is another great place to take a peek back into old world Hong Kong. If it was in America it would be one of those spots featured on all of the food shows and documentaries that like to feature the classic establishments. Part of it's lore is the cook/owner. I read she's the one and only person who does the cooking so if it gets busy prepare to wait and don't be the ass that asks when it will be ready bc she may come out to tell you never. Hordes of everyday people as well as famous Hong Kong actors and actresses come here for basically one thing. The pork chop over rice is a legendary breakfast dish when you add a fried egg. It's got a bit of Portuguese influence from their time in Macau but 'm not sure how it compares to the pork chops over there. I just know this was the tender most sweetest piece of pig I'd had in a long, long time. A memorable dish.

Pork Chop over Rice at For Kee

________________________________________________________________________

Penang Prawn Noodle Shop 

One true sign of an international city? It’s eating options. With the people come their foods. Lots of Malaysians here so no surprise to find some killer Laksa (Prawn Curry Noodle Soup). It's one of the worlds greatest hangover remedies. This spot also serves a really nice bowl of Hokkien Mee. It too is a prawn noodle soup but the biggest difference between the two is the laksa has a little bit of coconut milk. Both broths are made from prawns shells and come loaded with deep shrimp flavor. Penang is currently number three on my travel bucketlist (paired up with Singapore) and I cant wait to try both of these dishes in their natural habitat. That's the thing about Asia. This spot might not be considered good against the best of Penang but if it was in any US city and it got a little exposure from someone with influence it would gain a quick cult following. Literally 1000's of spots are worth a stop in HK.

Hokkien Mee at Penang Prawn Noodle Shop

Curry Laksa at Penang Prawn Noodle Shop

________________________________________________________________________

Deli Blossom 

My last meal in HK came randomly bc I was running out of time. With about an hour until we took off for the airport I wandered out from our hotel and walked through a park that connected two neighborhoods.This small little storefront was on the same street as Home.Dumpling up above. But bc there's a bunch of street vendors in between both sides of the street you will only see the shops of whatever side you're on. Deli Blossom seemed to specialize in Hainan style Chicken Rice among other things. One of my favorite regional Asian dishes to eat. Chicken Rice is big in not just Hainan but also Singapore and Thailand. Hainan is a spot I'd love to travel to someday but in the meantime this chicken rice was wonderful. The poached chicken dish seems so normal but it's a dish that requires the type of skill that requires a life time of dedication. How was this compared to some of the best spots in Singapore? I cant tell you that but I loved the tenderness of the slippery chicken and the little cup of fat infused broth was great used to soak up the rice. A very nice farewell meal.

Hainan Chicken Rice at Deli Blossom

________________________________________________________________________

Note: To find the locations of all the spots featured in this post, as well as places I didn't make it to, please click HERE for my google maps guide to Hong Kong. Click HERE for Eating BIG in Beijing.

See ya next time @chibbqking

Smack Dab

-Grubbing in Chicago

Delicious Biscuits and More in Rogers Park

Long time coming for today's post. Smack Dab's location all the way at the very North end of Clark street is a bit of a ways away. So I don't get there often but I always enjoy it when I do. Smack Dab has steadily grown in the last couple years. They may have been a pop up to start I'm not sure. I do remember when they were a weekends only establishment. Of late they're open every day except Monday. I haven't had the chance to go but they just started weekend pizza dinners. They look good.

 Locals Favorite in Rogers Park 

Smack Dab became known through it's baking. They still bake a bunch of stuff these days and the donuts are always popular. I like them alot when I can get one. There's been a couple times they were sold out. I don't do coffee but obviously they have a very nice coffee program for those that do.

 Donut at Smack Dab 

It's not listed on the menu anymore but I'm told the Chifa Chaufa is always available. Smack Dab's loose interpretation of the Peruvian-Chinese classic is one of my favorite breakfast bowls in the city. It's fried wild rice with some crisp veggies, egg, and Peruvian aji sauce. No meat but I'm sure they have an option to add some. That said it doesn't really need any. They oil it up just right. Good stuff.

Chifa Chaufa Bowl at Smack Dab 

Then there's the biscuit sandwiches. These are the most popular item on the menu and the other thing that helped Smack Dab build a steady case of repeat customers. There's a handful of options available and all are served on a house baked cheesy-herby biscuit. You can build your own and my choice of sausage, egg, and aji sauce was wonderful. That biscuit is damn good for a Northerner.

Biscuit Sandwich at Smack Dab Bakery

Smack Dab
6730 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60626
(872) 241-9111
Website

Southside Taqueria Tour

- On the road with the 'Chicago Taco Tour'

It's time for another 'Specialty of the House' special. Last time we did this we took a look at ten new Northside taquerias. Today we will head south to check out five from the Southside. The area may not have as many restaurant openings as the Northside but any time a Mexican restaurant opens in one of the city's heavily populated Mexican neighborhoods it's worth checking out. Let's hit the road.

________________________________________________________________________

 El Chubasco 

First stop up is on Cermak in Pilsen. This building has housed a Mexican restaurant for a while but it's been at least three different spots. Except I think the change has been only in name each time. Originally this was a La Quebrada which has a few locations across the city. it's now known as El Chubasco but many of the items Quebrada was known for are on menu. First and foremost is the Molcajete salsa. Named after the kitchen tool this roasted tomato salsa is made with, it's always served warm and pretty much works great on anything. Also similar are the housemade tortillas which are fantastic. I highly recommend them via the Cecina tacos. The dried steak is browned up real nice and goes over a smear of refried beans with a dollop of guacamole and some Pico de Gallo. Don't forget to add some of the salsa de molcajete bc it all makes for one of the best tacos in Pilsen.

Cecina Taco at El Chubasco

________________________________________________________________________

 Perez Licoreria & Taqueria Co. 

Cruising down Archer this summer I noticed a new taco spot. Turns out the taqueria is new but the liquor store it's in is not. The Perez family have  supplying liquor to the folks of Brighton Park for a while and now they do the same with tacos. I tried a steak off the generic listing of options. It was better than many but in this city that can still mean it was middle of the road compared to others.

 Steak Taco at Perez Licoreria & Taqueria Co

 ________________________________________________________________________

 Taqueria Varitas 

At the beginning of the summer the folks of Bronzeville got a full fledged taqueria. A first for the historic African-American neighborhood. It's run by a brother and sister team that live in the neighborhood. It sits in a strip mall in a space that some might remember was occupied by Cafe Trinidad (RIP). It was refreshing to see a menu with a few taco options you don't always find. I tried the Steak Milanesa, Shrimp Tempura, and a Jerk Chicken. The last of which shows they did their homework as far as what their neighbors like to eat. All three were tasty and each one was good enough to bet again so I didn't really have a favorite. No surprise to see them fitting right in.

 Trio of Tacos at Taqueria Varitas

 ________________________________________________________________________

Tacos & Salsas Taco Truck

There's a fair amount of taco trucks in Chicago if you know where to look. Mostly the Southside to be exact. One of my favorites can be found at 47th and Richmond. It’s all about the salsa bar with taco trucks and this truck has a really good one. But it doesn't stop there. Both the steak and suadero are loaded into well oiled tortillas that manage to hold everything together. About as close to Mexico as you can get here here in States. According to the girl working the register they're there most nights after 5. I'm not sure about in the dead of winter but you got time to wander over before then.

 Taco Truck Tacos in Brighton Park 

 ________________________________________________________________________

La Mejikana

Back to where we started in Pilsen to finish off. La Mejikana just opened on Ashland South of 18th street. It's a hip little neighborhood spot where they're serving food and drink all day. My guy Nick Kindelsperger from the Tribune has already been there for a story. You can read that HERE. The menu at La Mejikana is modern Mexican and tacos have a starring role. According to the article and the pics I saw online they're supposed to be making blue corn tortillas in-house but I didn't get them when I stopped in. I tried two tacos the first of which was carne asada with chicharrón, black beans, and cotija cheese. The tortilla was still homemade but it wasn't made with blue corn. No big deal. I liked the taco alot actually. The fish was a bit of a letdown bc I forgot some spots like to use flour which is fine but if you're making great tortillas in-house why not use them for all the tacos? Still a good representation of a fish taco I just didn't like the standard flour tortilla. The menu has a few other sections including Cemitas, Seafood with a Nayarit Style Spicy Prawns dish calling my name, and more. Not to mention some good looking cocktails. This looks like another winner for Pilsen. 

Tacos at La Mejikana

_____________________________________________________

See ya next time @chibbqking

Passerotto

-Grubbing in Chicago

New to the 'Scene'

I never did make it over to Snaggletooth when it was open and generating tons of buzz. The acclaimed house cured fish is no longer available now that they closed for good. But Chicago's loss is Chicago's gain. When Snaggletooth closed that left Chef Jennifer Kim without work. Well now she's back with her own place in Andersonville. Passerotto is Chef Kim's self described "fun" Korean spot.

Newly Opened in Andersonville 

Chef Jennifer Kim is a Chicago restaurant vet who has bounced around at a few different spots. One of those places was Nico Osteria - the Italian joint from One Off Hospitality. She's Korean American but I believe this is her first stint cooking Korean for the masses. Only thing is it's not your typical Koran and that's bc there's slight influence of Italian to be found too. Just don't use the fusion word bc chef's hate it for some reason. These day's fusion has taken on new meaning by which I mean many who are practicing the art of mixing two cuisines are doing so in a inventive and respectful way. Fusion was given a bad rap in the 1980's when California chefs started calling Frankenstein dishes such. But more on that in a bit. Passerotto has a raw menu section for those that miss Snaggletooth.

Yellowfin Tuna - Roasted Squash, Saba Vinegar, Pepitas

Both of the items we ordered from the four raw options were awesome. Not sure which one I liked more but I'll have to give the edge to the tuna bc it's tuna. But the scallops in XO sauce a close 2nd.

Bay Scallops - Homemade XO, Soy Onion Puree, Citron 

The menu is small so each section is as well. We tried a sunchoke dish which seems to be a popular ingredient in restaurants these days. The knobby root vegetable isn't easy to cook with but chefs love it's sweet and nutty flavors. I'm not even sure which continent inspired this dish below but it was really good. Probably Italy as the sunchokes sat atop a very risotto like concoction. A damn good dish.

Sunchokes - Green Acre Sunchoke Funduta, Job's Tears, Doenjang Bagna Cauda

My favorite bite of the night was of course the dish that was most Korean-Italian of them all. They take rice cakes and pan fry them until they're nice and browned and then cover them in an extremely flavorful lamb ragu made from lambs neck. Some Parmesan is shaved on top of the hot ragu which allows it melt a bit upon contact. I absolutely loved this. One of my favorites plates of the year in fact.

Ddukbokki Lamb Ragu - Pan Fried Rice Cakes, Lamb Neck Ragu 

If not for the wonderful dish up above the next one up would've easily been my favorite. Both will make it onto my year end best list. If I see dumplings on the menu I'm trying them so an order of King Mandu was in store. I wasn't sure what Kare was but quickly learned it's the Korean word for curry. As soon as I tasted these they reminded me of Japanese curry which is popular in Korea. Both cuisines have influenced each other for a long time. These were very well made as the wrapper scored a 9 out of 10 in my book which isn't an easy accomplishment. I'm very picky about dumpling skins but there wasn't much to pick at with these. Inside the beef was abundant and perfectly complimented by the little puddle of curry sauce the dumplings were sitting in. Just wonderful. Get them while you can.

King Mandu - Beef Kare Dumplings, Pickled Radish, Cured Trout Roe 

For our main entree we didn't really have a choice. She doesn't love beef so we go the soodubu over the Kalbi short rib. Honestly I left wishing I got the rib but I wasn't too upset bc I already planned on coming back before this dish arrived. Described by our terrific waiter as a Korean Cioppino which was a good sell. I liked the sound of the San Francisco seafood tomato stew mixed with soondubu which is a popular Korean tofu stew which is also very red in color but that's mostly from kimchi and seasoning. On the side was a five pack of banchan that was really well done. The mashed potatoes in particular. It's not that this dish wasn't good bc we ate it all up I just wish the broth had stronger seafood tastes. Or at least kimchi. I thought it was a bit subtle. Still you could tell this had potential. Bc of my love for trying out new to me spots I don't get to go back everywhere right away but Passerotto is the type of place I will try to get to a few times a year so I can see what's new.

Cacciucco Soondubu - Clams, Mussels, Silken Tofu, Kimchi Broth

Passerotto
5420 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60640
(708) 607-2102
Website

Astoria Cafe

-Grubbing in Chicago

Balkan Classics on Irving Park Road

I'll come out and admit it right away. I'm not the biggest fan of Eastern European food. While I do like to enjoy it from time to time (winter) it's not one of my favorite styles of cuisine by any means. So after reading some enthusiastic reviews of Astoria Cafe over on LTHforum I was slow to go check it out. About a month or so after it was on LTHforum Mike Sula was there getting the full story. His review which can be seen HERE was still not enough to get me in right away though it made sure I was eventually going to go. This summer my friend came in from Barcelona and his GF is from Croatia so he's gotten familiar with Eastern European cuisines since being with her. Burek is one of his favorite bites and his mentioning of that reminded me I needed to go over to Astoria Cafe. I did.

 Newly Opened in Irving Park 

The story of Astoria is a good one. You can get the complete details from the previously linked article in The Reader. Long story short this bakery is a mother / daughter operation by way of Detroit and Germany and then Serbia before that. When they arrived in Chicago the mother took a job at a different Balkan spot across the street. Eventually they saved enough to open their own spot which is where we are today. The menu is a heavy hitter of Serbian classics. I still need to try the beast that is the komplet lepinja (see the Reader article) but I'll need to get past the burek to do that. Burek being a stuffed phyllo dough pastry that's extremely popular in the Balkans. On my first trip to Astoria I wrestled back and forth in my mind about whether to try the beef or the potato based option. I settled on the potato and onion. The Burek is baked fresh so I had to wait 25 minutes or so but it was more than worth it. With this being basically just diced potatoes and sauteed onions layered in dough I couldn't believe how good it was. It took on similar profile to a UP Michigan style pasty but this was so much better. The potatoes were perfectly al dente and the onions extra potent. Wow. I'll be back.

Potato Burek at Astoria Cafe

Astoria Cafe
2954 W Irving Park Rd
Chicago, IL 60618
(773) 654-1033

Rosaisela Tacos Y Mas

-The Sammy's of Chi

Has anyone ever looked into the history of the steak sandwich in Logan Square? It's not something I'm aware of if so. What I do know is that the steak sandwich is very popular in the neighborhood. There's long gone spots like Cafeteria Marianao where they served a Cuban steak sandwich and then there's places still around like Tropicuba, El Cubanito, and Cafeteria Marcela's. While there's a high concentration of them to be found in Logan Square they're certainly not limited to just there nor are they exclusively sold by Cuban establishments. Today's stop is in Logan Square but it isn't a Cuban restaurant. Rosaisela Tacos Y Mas is a Puerto Rican joint that opened a few years ago on Fullerton.

 Locals Favorite in Logan Square

Before we get to the sandwiches they have tacos in their name so of course that was my original intent for stopping in. It was a couple years ago but I liked the chicken milanese taco very much. This from the now defunct Chicago Taco Tour Website - "They take a breaded chicken breast and fry it to order. It's then sliced up and placed into a tortilla rubbed with refried beans and rice which helps hold it all together. It's topped off with avocado salsa and cilantro. I thought this was a really well made snack. More places should serve them like this." Online reviews seem to agree about the tacos.

 Chicken Cutlet Taco 

Then there's the steak sandwich. Lots of online love for that too. As there should be. It' also very well made. They take chopped up steak which is probably the same stuff used in the tacos and fry up some onions alongside it before melting in the typical white processed cheese used to make this style of sandwich. It's not the same without it. Lettuce, tomato, and a bit of mayo are the other condiments that round this sandwich out. It's a little different than the others but just as good in terms of satisfaction. I like to call these Cuban/ Puerto Rican sandwiches "Logan Square Style Steak Sandwiches" bc they're common around the 'hood. Add an egg and they make a great breakfast. 

Steak Sandwich at Rosaisela Tacos y Mas  

Rosaisela Tacos y Mas 
2551 W Fullerton
Chicago, IL 60647
(773) 655-0096