Dongpo Impression

-Grubbing in Chicago
Late Night Sichuan Food in Chinatown

The pandemic didn’t completely kill late-night dining, but it drastically shrunk the number of 24/7 spots and permanently shifted restaurant hours into earlier closing times. This was driven by surging labor costs, staffing shortages, and changing consumer habits. It’s slowly getting better but you needn’t look no further than Chinatown for just how few places stay open past 9pm these days. I could count the ones that did on one hand as recently as last year. A few spots have since opened that stay open until 11pm but even still, late night dining in Chinatown isn’t as prevalent as you might think. You basically have a handful of choices after 10pm and today we’re going to visit my go-to option. 

Locals Favorite in Chinatown

Dongpo Impression sits on Cermak and stays open until 12am daily. It’s from the same ownership group as Chengdu Impression and Chengdu Bistro. That restaurant group is spearheaded by Ryan Hu, nephew of legendary Chinatown restaurateur Tony Hu of Lao Sze Chuan fame. All three brands are showcasing food from the Sichuan region of China but the menu varies by location. Dongpo Impression specializes in Meizhou-style cuisine, a distinct sub-regional branch of Sichuan cooking originating from Meishan. Meizhou cuisine features the fiery flavors most people associate with Sichuan food but its overall style is characterized by a balance of savory, sweet, sour, and numbing profiles rather than just heat. As is the case with one of their most popular dishes - Dongpo Pork. 

Dongpo Pork

Dongpo pork aka Dongpo Rou is a classic Hangzhou dish featuring thick, melt-in-your-mouth pork belly braised in a rich and glossy mixture of Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, ginger, scallions, and rock sugar. The dish is named after famous Song Dynasty poet Su Dongpo. It's prized for its gelatinous, tender texture and sweet and savory flavors. I haven’t tried any other versions to compare with the Dongpo pork at Dongpo Impression. If you enjoy chunks of pork belly cooked until the fat melts into a soft and gelatinous clunk that’s tender than this is your type of dish. It’s deeply savory and subtly sweet and at Dongpo Impression it’s served with cubed tofu that takes on the flavor of the sauce.  

Squirrel Fish at Dongpo Impression

Dongpo Impression offers all the popular Sichuan dishes like Dry Chili Chicken, Mapo Tofu and Dan Dan Noodles but they also have a nice collection of dishes you don’t see everywhere. Some of them even come from different regions in China such as the Squirrel Fish. This is a Shanghainese dish that’s essentially a whole fried fish doused in a sweet and sour sauce. It’s typically made with a deboned whole fish with its tail still attached. The meat is scored in a cross-hatch pattern and deep fried so the flesh pokes out and curls, looking like the fluffy tail of a squirrel. It’s drenched in a glossy, sweet-and-sour sauce. The version served at Dongpo Impression is pretty good though it’s boneless and includes two pieces of flounder. But my go-to dish of late has been the Yushang Pork. It was put on my radar by John Kessler at Chicago Magazine. It’s a classic Sichuan dish featuring tender slivers of pork stir-fried in a tangy, spicy, and slightly sweet garlic sauce. The version served at Dongpo Impression also includes matchsticks of zucchini and peppers and wood ear mushrooms that absorb tons of the tangy sauce. I could eat this dish over a plate of rice for breakfast, lunch, and or dinner.

Yushang Pork

Dongpo Impression
228 W Cermak Rd
Chicago, IL 60616
(312) 842-7818
Website

Hacienda Memos Restaurante

-Grubbing in Chicago
Bargain Bites ft. Tacos de Discada in Galewood

It’s been awhile since I had a worthy taco spot to post about but I do have a few posts in the works. In the meantime I recently got reacquainted with a place that stood out back when it was operating on Grand Avenue. Hacienda Memos Restaurante has been open on North Avenue just past Oak Park Ave for three years now. They moved there from way west on Grand Avenue where they were popular for their tacos among other things. I had seen a friend post online from their current location and immediately put two and two together when I saw the tacos and Memos in the name of the place. 

Locals Favorite in Galewood

It took a little time to ride west and check out their new digs but I liked Memos when it was on Grand due to a really diverse taco selection that included tacos de discada which you don’t see in Chicago too often. Tacos de Discada are a specialty of northern Mexico in states like Chihuahua, Coahuila, Durango, and Nuevo León. They feature a mix of finely chopped meats all cooked together on a large steel plow disc ("disco") repurposed into a cooking surface over an open fire. The name comes from the cooking method rather than a recipe. Vaqueros reused worn-out plow discs to make a large outdoor griddle. Over time, the seasoned surface developed flavor, much like a well-used cast-iron skillet. Tacos de Discada typically include steak and other inexpensive cuts of meat such as bacon, chorizo, ham, and sausage mixed with onions, tomatoes, and peppers among other things. They come served on smaller tortillas and are ordered a few at a time. Memos has some other interesting tacos and they’re all under $2. The Taco de Indio is made with marinated beef and pineapple and the taco de alambre with pork, bacon, onions, green peppers and cheese. The salsas are also of note - both a green and a red plus a thicker one with roasted peppers and onions are equally spicy. 

Platter of Tacos at Hacienda Memos

Hacienda Memos Restaurante
6822 W North Ave
Chicago, IL 60707 
(773) 889-9999
Website

Fish Sandwiches in Chicago

-Grubbing in Chicago
Five of a Kind: New Fish Sandwiches on Scene

The fish sandwich continues to make a bit of a comeback. I recently did a little piece featuring four in Chicago Magazine back in February which you can see HERE. But since it was published there’s a handful of new options to be reeled in. When I named myself President of the ‘Fish Sandwich Club’ years ago I did so with the intent of making the fish sandwich popular again and I’d like to think we’ve made some strides in doing so. As of now most of the fish sandwiches around town are fried but I’ve noticed at least a few that aren’t so stay tuned for a possible run down of those later this summer. Today we’ll try five fried versions that have popped up since my Chicago Mag piece was published. 

__________________________________________________

Mott St. (Wicker Park)

First stop might be the best of the bunch or at least the most traditional in the sense of how a fried fish sandwich is typically made. So let’s head over to Mott St. - the Asian restaurant on Ashland in Wicker Park is named after the unofficial "Main Street" of Chinatown in Manhattan. Mott St. has been around awhile now - I hadn’t visited in some time but that changed quickly when I learned they were putting out an excellent fish sandwich during brunch. It’s made with sesame panko crusted pollock, kewpie tartar, American cheese, lettuce, pickles, and a brioche bun. It’s basically an amped up version of the Filet O Fish and it’s outstanding. An immediate contender for the best fish sandwich in Chicago. 

Fish Sandwich at Mott St.
__________________________________________________



John's Food & Wine (Lincoln Park)

Next up we head over to Lincoln Park where John’s Food & Wine on Halsted does lunch on Saturdays. The menu is small but mighty with a very good burger and an even better fish sandwich. The base is branzino and it’s panko breaded and dressed with a celery root caper slaw loaded with fresh herbs plus a kimchi ketchup on a soft and sturdy sesame seeded bun. Another contender.

Fried Fish Sandwich at John's Food & Wine
__________________________________________________



Mirra (Bucktown)

Mirra in Bucktown is a unique restaurant on Armitage mixing the flavors of India and Mexico. If you go during brunch you can try a Skate Wing Milanesa sandwich made with panko crusted Skate Wing filet topped with fennel-lime slaw and served with sides of strawberry rhubarb achar, and a Morita crema. This is by far the most interesting of the fried fish sandwiches featured here today or anywhere in town for that matter. It’s also the largest, we split this and left pretty full. Props to them for coming up with such a unique fish sandwich. I love the idea of a fish milanesa using skate wing which is the edible pectoral fins of the skate fish, similar in size and shape to a pounded chicken breast. I thought the fish was a tad bit dry but an array of flavorful toppings helped even it out while giving off tons of exciting flavor profiles. I also appreciated the fact that it came with a really refreshing side salad. 

Skate Wing Milanesa at Mirra
__________________________________________________



Andros Taverna (Logan Square)

Logan Square is our next destination, Andros Taverna to be specific. This bustling Greek joint on Milwaukee avenue now offers a crispy fish pita during its weekday lunch service. Crisp battered cod goes into one of the restaurants signature wood fired pitas along with a spicy aioli plus lettuce and tomato. I really liked this in big part due to the smoky and soft pita which is just about perfect. 

Crispy Fish Pita at Andros Taverna
__________________________________________________

Bar Bambi (West Town)

Last stop takes us over to West Town where Bar Bambi opened on Chicago Avenue this past Spring. This is a hip and happening cocktail bar with an artistic atmosphere and a very good fish sandwich on the dinner menu. This is another fish sandwich modeled after the Filet O Fish starting with a fried halibut fillet dressed with American cheese, and House-made tartar sauce on a soft and squishy potato bun. It’s a textbook prep as far as the ingredients but each and every one of them is top notch.

Fish Sandwich at Bar Bambi
__________________________________________________

See ya next time @chibbqking