Showing posts with label Sausage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sausage. Show all posts

Thursday, September 3, 2026

Eating BIG in Milwaukee Pt. 4

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties

- Recent Eats in the Cream City

We were due for a Milwaukee post over here so I threw one together while the weather is still pleasant. I don’t have a ton of new things to say about the city but it remains a great place to take a daytrip or better yet spend the weekend. I feel right at home there even though I’ve never lived there. But I do live in Chicago and Milwaukee reminds me of Chicago in many ways even though it still has a feel all its own. To me it feels a bit like the Chicago I grew up in. It sits on Lake Michigan and there’s similar demographics just much more people in Chicago so Milwaukee isn’t as developed so it feels old school in many ways. Then there’s all the corner bars, just like they did in Chicago, they’re starting to disappear up there but quite a few still remain, just nowhere near as many as before. I always try and hit up an old favorite and a couple new (to me) places when I visit and maybe get to a brewery too. Another trait that Chicago and Milwaukee share is they both really come alive in the summer.




Pics from Milwaukee
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Restaurant Don Lucho

Carnitas Lucho, as it’s called by the locals, is a South Side Milwaukee institution specializing in Michoacán style Mexican food. As the nickname suggests this place has developed a serious local following for carnitas. They sell pork carnitas by the pound as well as in tacos which in my opinion are the reason to come here. The handmade tortillas are large and in charge - simply outstanding when paired with a ton of different cuts of the fried pig aka canitas de surtida. The salsa here is no joke either and simply put these are some of the best carnitas tacos anywhere. But you'll have to plan it right as they’re only open Fri.-Sat.-Sun. from 4a-2p making it a popular spot for weekend breakfast.


Carnitas Taco at Restaurant Don Lucho
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Num Pang Sandwich Shop

One of the more interesting recent openings in Milwaukee can be found downtown at the 3rd Street Market Hall. Num Pang is a Cambodian style sandwich shop that opened inside the hall this past spring. It’s ran by a husband and wife team - Nikki and Brian Podgorski. The sandwich stall draws on Nikki's Cambodian family recipes incorporated into sandwich form. Baguettes are baked fresh each morning and the fillings lean heavily into Southeast Asia with hints of lemongrass and herbs plus sweet and sour notes with pickled vegetables. I saw the ‘Cambo Hot Beef’ making the rounds online and made a note to try one the next time I was in town which was July. The sandwich consists of braised Cambodian beef roast with Papaya Salau, Chili-Oil Aioli, Carrots, Daikon, and Cilantro all on a fresh baked French baguette with a side of infused Pho broth for dipping. The beef is a play on a traditional Cambodian braised beef stew called ‘kaw sach ko’ and it’s dressed with a crisp papaya salad, chili oil aioli, an herb sauce, and cilantro and it comes with a cup of broth for dipping. There’s a lot of components at play, but they come together in a very harmonious way, making this one of the most satisfying sandwiches I’ve had all summer and an instant candidate for ‘Sandwich of the Year’.


'Cambo Hot Beef' at Num Pang
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Doner Kebab

My search for a real deal Doner Kebap in the States continued in Milwaukee recently. Doner Kebab is owned by an Eastern European guy who lived in Germany. They bake the bread there and slice to order from a spit of beef. All in all I thought this was good by U.S. standards but I’m still searching for a Doner sandwich in the States that can match the better ones in Europe. The bread was very nice which isn’t always the case elsewhere in the States. But the biggest difference between how they’re made in Europe and North America seems to be the abundance of fresh toppings you get in Europe.


Doner Kebab at Doner Kebab
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Estabrook Beer Garden

Milwaukee has a very nice public parks system. Estabrook Park is a 124.7 acre county park situated along the Milwaukee River, it’s located north of the city near Shorewood and Whitefish Bay. It’s used for walking, running, biking, soccer, softball, volleyball, skateboarding, playing (playgrounds) and there’s even an 18-hole disc golf course. But this being Wisconsin the parks most popular attraction is Estabrook Beer Garden. It sits on a bluff above the river and was part of the city’s revival of the traditional beer garden culture. I read a note on a plaque at the park that Estabrook’s opening in 2014 helped spark a beer-garden revival across the rest of the state. I like to come here on a nice day and enjoy a boot of beer in the sun while listening to the river flow. Aside from a nice selection of beers they also sell giant pretzels and some really good locally made brats. On my last visit to the beer garden they had a bacon cheese brat on special that I liked more than I thought I would. Really good.


Brat and Beers at Estabrook Beer Garden
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Ferney's Pizza

I’m always keeping tabs on Milwaukee’s food scene as far as what’s new and what’s buzzing and Ferney’s Pizza is that spot right now. It’s ran by Brian Cripps, he’s worked in Michelin starred kitchens and served as executive chef at Tre Rivali, and he’s also competed on Food Network's 'Beat Bobby Flay'. Ferney’s is clearly a passion project as it’s only open Fri/Sat/Sun and it’s ran out of the back of a corner store in an otherwise residential neighborhood. Customers line up in one of the food aisles and make their way to the back where Chef Cripps and a helping hand pump out East Coast style slices until sold out. I was recently in town on a Friday and arrived at Clarke Foods around 11:50a and there was already a line out the door. It took about 15-20 minutes to get up to the front where I ordered a slice of pepperoni and a slice of the ‘Brew Crew’ with Bratwurst, giardiniera, red onion, mozzarella, red sauce, and Pecorino. Fun set of toppings on the ladder but it’s the crust that’s most notable. You can take your slices to the church across the street and sit on the stairs if it’s nice out.

The 'Brew Crew' at Ferney's Pizza
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Ni Burmese

Milwaukee has had one of the country’s larger Lao communities for a bit but people from Myanmar's many ethnic groups such as Karen, Karenni, Chin, and Burmese are newer arrivals. Milwaukee also has a nice sized Rohingya community with the Burmese Rohingya Community of Wisconsin (BRCW) estimating more than 4,000 Rohingya people in the area. Ni Burmese is a mother and daughter operation that opened in Bayview in 2025. It’s a real deal Burmese restaurant serving Burmese / Myanmar cuisine as its own distinct tradition, rather than mixed with Thai, Chinese, or Indian food. Burmese cooking draws influences from all three cuisines, but it has its own characteristics with sour, salty, spicy, herbal, and crunchy flavors. I stopped in last year and enjoyed an order of samosas which the Burmese do with turmeric potatoes. These are more aromatic than spicy but I love the crunch factor from the thin wrappers. I also ordered a bowl of Mohinga which is considered Myanmar's national dish. It’s a fish based broth with vermicelli, traditionally flavored with things like lemongrass, ginger, garlic and banana stem. Ni Burmese serves theirs with a boiled egg, crispy yellow beans and coriander. It was good as is but a jar of spices sitting on the table really took it up a notch. Order the samosas, the Mohinga soup, and a tea-leaf salad if you want to try traditional Burmese food.


Lunch at Ni Burmese
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Todd I Believe I Can Fry

Todd ‘I Believe I Can Fry’ is a weird name for a restaurant but it’s also one that stands out I was curious what it was so I investigated further. As the name suggests this Bayview spot is frying Asian things like Korean style chicken wings and Tonkatsu among other stuff. I was intrigued when I saw it mentioned in a list with Milwaukee's best openings of the year. Honestly I don’t love Korean fried chicken like I do other some things but it hits the spot once or twice a year as was the case here. I tried a six piece wing with the K-Spice sauce and they were perfectly fried. These were some meaty wings with serious crunch and the sauce was super satisfying. I can see why this place is commonly mentioned when it comes to the best chicken wings around Milwaukee.


Korean Chicken Wings at Todd I Believe I Can Fry
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An Ox Cafe

I’m always on the lookout for Lao food in Wisconsin as there’s local communities in places like Milwaukee and Madison. An Ox Cafe is a Lao bar / restaurant on the Northwest side of the city. It’s owned by a husband and wife team with Lao roots. The name “An Ox” refers to the Year of the Ox as both were born in 1973. The menu is Lao / Thai as both cuisines share similarities and it doubles as a dance club at night so there’s alcohol here too. We had to start with an order of the Lao Sausage which is one of my favorite types of encased meat and is made on site at Ox Cafe. Lao sausage is herby and aromatic with a fatty texture and is typically served sliced with rice and a spicy dipping sauce. Really good version served here. We also tried the stir fried baby bok choy with roasted pork belly that hit the spot. The pork was crisp and tender as was the bok choy - a very satisfying meal.


Lunch at An Ox Cafe
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Archie's Flat Top

Archie’s Flattop is an extremely popular, retro-themed bar and diner located in the suburb of West Allis. It’s known for serving some of the best smash burgers in the Milwaukee area. This place just opened in 2023 but did so in the former location of an old neighborhood staple (Randy’s Neighbors Inn) and thus it features a more realistic aesthetic of nostalgia complete with black and white checkered floors, red vinyl stools, neon lights, and a working vinyl turntable behind the bar. I stopped in here with same friend mentioned above so we were able to try both the smash burger and the fried baloney sandwich. The latter comes with two thick slices of homemade smoked bologna sourced directly next door from a local butcher shop. It’s griddled on the flat top and gets two slices of American cheese and comes topped with a house sauce on a soft potato bun with pickles on the side. It’s a damn good version of a sandwich you usually don’t see this far north. As for the smashburgers, they too are really well made. Nothing unique just properly smashed and holding a ton of flavor. They do come with beer braised onions so I suppose they do have a bit of a Wisconsin touch to them.


Fried Baloney Sandwich at Archie's Flat Top


Smash Burger at Archie's Flat Top
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Lonchera El Tapatío Taco Truck

There’s a pretty good taco truck culture in Milwaukee and one of them serves up one of my favorite bites in town and it’s just four bucks and comes served in a styrofoam cup. The ‘Frijoles Charros ATM’ at Lonchera El Tapatío Taco Truck is a classic blend of Mexican cowboy beans mixing pinto beans with jalapeño, onion, tomato, bacon. Order them “ATM” it comes topped with steak, queso, avocado. 


Frijoles Charros ATM at Lonchera El Tapatío Taco Truck
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McBob's Pub & Grill

It’s hard to pick a single favorite bar in Milwaukee but McBob’s serves one of my favorite sandwiches in the city. It’s all about the Corned Beef at this Irish tavern coming up on its 40th anniversary. The corned beef is hand sliced and served thick and tender like a Texas brisket. I like it in Rueben form. The bar is a bit of a dive but the bartenders and customers are always friendly. The Reuben comes with your choice of Swiss, American or pepper-jack and in my experiences the cheese is well melted, the toast is nicely toasted and the thick corned beef is fall apart tender. McBob’s doesn’t stay open late so it’s a great place to day drink as it’s a classic Irish bar with great corned beef sandwiches.


Rueben Sandwich at McBob's
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Jack Pandl's Whitefish Bay Inn

Jack Pandl's Whitefish Bay Inn is one of the more old school spots in the Milwaukee area. It’s a German-American institution up in Whitefish Bay with more than a century of history. John and Anna Pandl bought the Whitefish Bay Inn back in 1915, when the surrounding area was mostly farmland and the restaurant has remained with the Pandl family thru four generations. It’s got the vibes of a classic Wisconsin supper club mixed with German-American cooking. The atmosphere inside is cozy, traditional, and very nostalgic. The bar is a real throwback and they have a nice outdoor dining patio too. The menu offers up German-American favorites like Wiener schnitzel, jaeger schnitzel, beef rouladen, spaetzle, and their signature German pancake. But this being Wisconsin it’s the Friday fish fry that Pandl’s is particularly well known for. Fish options include lake perch, cod, potato-crusted cod, and broiled whitefish. Well if you know me well you know I’m going with the lake perch and a potato pancake as my picks. We sat outside on a lovely summer day and enjoyed the butterflied filets with the same standard potato pancake many spots in Wisconsin seem to serve. I would definitely come back here for a few beers in the bar and possibly another plate of lake perch if it was a Friday.


Friday Fish Fry at Jack Pandl's
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Three Brothers

It’s tough to go up to Milwaukee and not stop at Three Brothers but at the same time it’s tough to go to Milwaukee’s iconic Serbian restaurant and not leave extremely full. It’s also a busy spot that doesn’t open until the late afternoon so you kind of have to plan a visit here with a reservation though I've walked in upon opening and been seated before. I’ve posted about Three Brothers previously - it’s one of the city’s most well known restaurants. It’s situated in an old Schiltz Tied House that traces back to 1897. The restaurants founding father gave it the name ‘Three Brothers’ in honor of his three sons when he opened it back in 1956. The dining room is one of the coolest anywhere - a real time capsule in so many ways. I’ve featured Three Brothers before and I almost always get the burek which you can check in the links for my previous posts from Milwaukee. My most recent visit came with a friend that loves cevapi so we stopped in right around opening for a plate and it was great as to be expected. We actually got the combo plate which comes with pork skewer too and it was excellent if that’s the route you choose to go but I still prefer the small, grilled minced meat sausages (cevapi). 

Raznjici and Chevapchichi at Three Brothers
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See ya next time @chibbqking

Tuesday, May 27, 2025

Lao Der

-Grubbing in Chicago  
Lao Food in Irving Park

Chicago's food scene lost another person in it's ever shrinking food media collection as Steve Dolinsky has called it quits at NBC5 Chicago where he spent the last four years after switching over from ABC7 where he reported as 'The Hungry Hound' from 2003 to 2021. During his time as a "food reporter" for both news stations Dolinsky would often shed light on the city's smaller mom and pop operations, often of the international variety, as well as new up and coming businesses ran by younger up and coming chefs. I joined Steve for many a meals and consider him a friend so take my words for what you will but his absence will be missed. Especially by the crowd of Chicagoan's who might not be plugged into social media but do watch the news and like to try new restaurants when they learn of them. Steve taught many Chicagoan's how to dig deep into our world class food scene whether it was a hip and happening place like Siam Thai in the South Loop which was one of his last stories (we ate there together) or a mom and pop operation like today's stop. Lao Der recently became the only Lao restaurant in the city proper when it opened in April. This a place I'm positive Steve would've done a story on and deservedly so as Lao is a cuisine we were lacking in Chicago.


Recently Opened in Irving Park 

Considering that there's a nice sized Lao population in the Midwest it's rather surprising that Lao Der is the city's first true Lao restaurant. We have had pop-ups and ghost kitchens but not a brick and mortar such as this. There's a good number of Lao restaurants in Wisconsin and Minnesota but there's not a ton of them in Illinois. In fact there's only one in the immediate Chicagoland area out in Burbank but Spicy Thai Lao only has a few Lao dishes from a non-pork eating chef. So before Lao Der opened you basically had to drive all the way out to Elgin to get Lao food in the form of 'Sai Kok' or 'Laab Moo Lao'. It took a minute but the "Lao Food Movement" has reached the city proper. The "Lao Food Movement" was popularized by Seng Luangrath, the chef and co-owner of Washington D.C's Thip Khao, she's considered to be the "Godmother of Laotian Cuisine in America" as she was a pioneer in showcasing the flavors of Laos in the U.S. I still remember the first time I had Lao food as a college kid in Madison and then again at Thip Khao in D.C. I've been a big fan since then, so this is pretty exciting getting a Lao restaurant, and LAO SAUSAGE, so close to home.


Lao Sausage aka Sai Oua at Lao Der

Much like Northern Thai cuisine (and Isan too) Lao food is known for its bold and flavorful dishes that often feature a mix of sweet and sour and spicy and salty flavors. Much like Vietnamese cuisine it's known for a strong emphasis on a bounty of fresh herbs. Though considered simpler than it's Southeast Asian counterparts Lao food is often less toned down in terms of spicing. Whenever I go to a Lao restaurant it's a must to start with the Lao Sausage which goes by Sai Kok. Lao food is already underrated as it is so most people out there don't know the deliciousness that a piece of Sai Kok can bring. If you've had Thai sausage in the form of 'Sai Ua' or 'Sai Krok Isan' than you've had something similar but Lao sausage often features turmeric and almost always comes served the same way which is slitted, fried, and served alongside sticky rice and jeow som (sour dipping sauce). Lao sausage is excellent as is - it's herbaceous and often has a bit of funk. It should have heavy hints of lime leaf, galangal, lemongrass, cilantro, and shallots and it's typically less coarsely ground than most other encased meat but it really comes together with Jeow sauce which commonly consists of fresh garlic, chiles, lime juice, sugar, and fish sauce all ground together with a mortar and pestle. The Lao sausage at Lao Der, who's owners come from the hub of Vientiane, is served with 'Jeow Mak Len' which is a roasted tomato based jeow sauce with a thicker texture and it’s fantastic paired with a slice of sausage and some sticky rice. They also serve Esan sausage which are little balls of sausage full of garlic and black pepper flavor served with cabbage and peanuts and is also very good. 


Esan Sausage at Lao Der

I've visited Lao Der twice now and have enjoyed everything I've tried. It's a pretty standard menu as far as the Lao dishes go but they seem to do all the classics really well. The crispy fried Lao Wings further solidified my feelings of Asian fried wings being far better than their American counterparts. Perfectly sized wings (not too big) are tossed in a mix of fish sauce, sugar and tamarind and topped with crispy garlic. These are some of my new favorite wings in town right now. Both times I visited they had a couple specials which on one visit was a spicy Lao style beef jerky which was crisp from a trip to the fryer and pungent from the lemongrass, garlic and chili powder it was rubbed with before it was fried. It also comes served with their delicious roasted tomato based jeow sauce. With summer seemingly near I'm glad to have easy access to Lao style Larb - also spelled laab, laap, larp, and lahb. Larb is traditional minced meat salad that's considered the national dish of Laos. It's known for its bold and botanical flavors and can be made with a variety of proteins including beef, pork, duck and chicken tossed with lime juice, fermented fish sauce, ground rice, and lots of fresh herbs. The 'Lab Gai' at Lao Der will be a go-to of mine in those dog days of summer as it taste even better cold out of the fridge the next day. You can't go wrong with any of these appetizers. 

Lao Wings

Lao Der Jerky


Lab Gai (diced chicken) at Lao Der

I consider Southeast Asia to be one of the worlds great soup regions as every country there has some fantastic noodle soups, including Laos. While Vietnam is the birthplace of Pho it's not the only spot where it's enjoyed. Laos has it's own adapted version due to the close proximity of the two countries. Pho gained popularity in Laos due to an influx of Vietnamese people combined with the fact Vietnam and Laos share cultural influences including food. Lao-style Pho adds sugar and a unique set of toppings including lime juice, chili peppers in oil, fried garlic, and a roasted peanut sauce. I thought the 'Lao Pho Beef' at Lao Der was decent as is but it really improved with the addition of the condiments it came with including the aforementioned peanut sauce. The broth was subtle without the extra stuff but it improved greatly with it. They use a combo of medium rare sliced beef and meatballs neither of which stood out plus they seemed to have forgotten the roasted tomatoes listed with it. 

'Lao Pho Beef' at Lao Der

The Lao style chicken noodle soup is the better pick of the soups. It's listed as 'Khao Piek Sen' on the and described as "homemade rice noodle, onion and cilantro, fried shallots, black pepper, homemade chicken meatball served in flavorful chicken broth" - flavorful is an understatement. That broth is some of the richest I've come across in Chicago. It's clearly home made with the sliced skin on chicken it comes with cooked in it. It tastes like Khao Man Gai in soup form. Khao Man Gai being the Thai version of Hainanese chicken rice (poached chicken served with a rice cooked in the broth). There were two other standouts in this fantastic bowl of soup: the meatballs and the noodles themselves. You could tell the meatballs were homemade from their delicate shape and the noodles are also made in-house which is easily distinguishable thanks to a terrifically chewy texture. This might be the best chicken noodle soup in town but don't wait until you're feeling under the weather to try it. We need more Lao food in Chicago but we may not get it if Lao Der isn’t welcomed with open arms.

Khao Piek Sen at Lao Der

Lao Der
3922 N Elston Ave
Chicago, IL 60618
(872) 241-4879
Website

Monday, March 24, 2025

Roadfood in Kentucky

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties 
- Pit Stops for Roadfood in Kentucky

Kentucky has always been an interesting place to me. So much so that I have a huge google maps guide of Roadfood to seek out throughout the state. I've always wanted to take a road trip through there and explore the region. I've never been able to do one solely focused on the Bluegrass State but I have driven through there more than a few times over the years and whenever I do I always find interesting spots to stop at. Here's five from two separate trips I took to North Carolina and Florida. 

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150 Quick Stop (Bardstown)

This gas station / convenience store is home to some of the best breakfast sausage in the world. You'll find it in Bardstown which is in the heart of the states bourbon producing territory (about an hour southeast of Louisville). I was turned onto to this top sausage by Chef Newman Miller, a friend of mine who lives in the area. Actually he and the sausage at 150 Quick Stop made an appearance in an article at Food & Wine Magazine which you can see HERE. The recipe to this sausage might've been won in a local poker game, or lost depending on how you look at it. So the story goes the owners of the truck stop beat a local butcher in a poker game and won his breakfast sausage recipe in doing so. It's a spicy sage forward blend with plenty of red pepper flakes found throughout. If you show up early enough you can try it in a biscuit - they make up to 600 a day. I arrived around 11a on my visit and it was already too late to score a sausage biscuit but they also sell it raw in two sizes and since we were on our way to Carolina for a week of outdoor stuff I made sure to grab some for the AirBNB. It really is the best damn sausage I've ever had as far as the breakfast variety goes. Oh so f'ing good. 

Breakfast Sausage from 150 Quick Stop 
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Wilson's Pool Room (Versailles) 

Ever had Pool Hall Grub in Kentucky? Oh that's a thing. Handfuls of pool halls are hanging on around the Bluegrass State and each one serves up some form of locally loved grub be it chili dogs, burgers, or both. Below is the Willie Burger from an old pool hall in Bourbon Country. Nothing special as far as the prep or dressing of it (fresh ball of beef lightly smashed with lettuce, tomato, mayo, onion) but it was one of the best burgers I had that year. I had to pass on the country ham sandwich bc this was a second lunch so I limited myself to just one choice for the sake of this massive food database that I continue to build. I hope to visit a few more Kentucky pool halls at some point before they all close. 

Willie Burger at Wilson's Pool Room 
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Tortilleria Y Taqueria Ramirez (Lexington)

If you ever find yourself in or passing through Lexington (aka Mexington) you got to stop at Taqueria Ramirez. There's a sizeable Mexican population in both Lexington and Louisville and lots of taco spots too. If you only have time for one of them I suggest this family owned taqueria that serves up the best tacos in the U.S. I've ever had outside of California, Texas, or Illinois. Upon entry you're greeted by a big assembly line production of corn tortillas made with Weisenberger Mills corn from Midway Kentucky - a place famous for its grits. The fillings include options like cabeza, lengua and barbacoa with each of them being as good as the last. This is a real blue blood type of taqueria.  

Tacos at Tortilleria Y Taqueria Ramirez 
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G&E Burgers (Williamsburg)

As regular readers know I'm a big fan of regional food and an even bigger fan of hyper local dishes like the Eastern Kentucky Chili Bun. A chili bun is simply a chili dog without the wiener. It's said that these first started to appear at pool halls in the area around the 1950's. They made for a cheap and tasty snack for the local miners and others who hung out at these pool halls after work and what not. I had plans to stop at a different spot but it was suddenly closed due to the passing of the owner. Luckily G&E Burgers was just down the block which gives you an idea of the chili buns prevalence in these parts. If you grew up or lived anywhere near Appalachia you likely have a favorite spot for one and or an old family recipe. The bun is dressed with mustard and onions before the sauce goes on. The chili here is a well spiced meat forward blend with minimal tomato detected. It wasn't spicy but had plenty of buzz. Also of note was a side of "soup beans" that come with the chili bun meal. Pintos are a big part of the Appalachian diet and soup beans as they're called are commonly served with cornbread, greens, and potatoes and are considered both a main course and also a side dish.

Chili Bun at G&E Burgers
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Dovie's (Tompkinsville)

Our final stop is one of the most interesting stops you can make on the Roadfood circuit - but it's a bit out of the way from any major highway so it's also somewhat elusive. Dovie's is home to some killer burgers (literally). They've been frying up balls of beef since 1940. When I first found this place searching through food stops in random Kentucky towns I thought I came across a relatively unknown place but then I checked the Insta check-ins and saw that a few fellow burger connoisseurs had already been here (@motzburger, @burgerbeast, @jcstrutz). So I knew it would be a fun one and it was. Particularly made so by the handful of local ladies who run the place. It's quite a riot inside as far as the atmosphere goes and quite the heart stopper on the burger and baloney front. I ordered mine "unsqueezed" which means they don't release any of the oil that the beef soaks up while frying. It wasn't the best burger I've ever had but it was one of the best roadfood experiences I've partaken in. 

Cheeseburger at Dovie's

Baloney Sandwich at Dovie's 
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