Lao Der

-Grubbing in Chicago  
Lao Food in Irving Park

Chicago's food scene lost another person in it's ever shrinking food media collection as Steve Dolinsky has called it quits at NBC5 Chicago where he spent the last four years after switching over from ABC7 where he reported as 'The Hungry Hound' from 2003 to 2021. During his time as a "food reporter" for both news stations Dolinsky would often shed light on the city's smaller mom and pop operations, often of the international variety, as well as new up and coming businesses ran by younger up and coming chefs. I joined Steve for many a meals and consider him a friend so take my words for what you will but his absence will be missed. Especially by the crowd of Chicagoan's who might not be plugged into social media but do watch the news and like to try new restaurants when they learn of them. Steve taught many Chicagoan's how to dig deep into our world class food scene whether it was a hip and happening place like Siam Thai in the South Loop which was one of his last stories (we ate there together) or a mom and pop operation like today's stop. Lao Der recently became the only Lao restaurant in the city proper when it opened in April. This a place I'm positive Steve would've done a story on and deservedly so as Lao is a cuisine we were lacking in Chicago.

Recently Opened in Irving Park 

Considering that there's a nice sized Lao population in the Midwest it's rather surprising that Lao Der is the city's first true Lao restaurant. We have had pop-ups and ghost kitchens but not a brick and mortar such as this. There's a good number of Lao restaurants in Wisconsin and Minnesota but there's not a ton of them in Illinois. In fact there's only one in the immediate Chicagoland area out in Burbank but Spicy Thai Lao only has a few Lao dishes from a non-pork eating chef. So before Lao Der opened you basically had to drive all the way out to Elgin to get Lao food in the form of 'Sai Kok' or 'Laab Moo Lao'. It took a minute but the "Lao Food Movement" has reached the city proper. The "Lao Food Movement" was popularized by Seng Luangrath, the chef and co-owner of Washington D.C's Thip Khao, she's considered to be the "Godmother of Laotian Cuisine in America" as she was a pioneer in showcasing the flavors of Laos in the U.S. I still remember the first time I had Lao food as a college kid in Madison and then again at Thip Khao in D.C. I've been a big fan since then, so this is pretty exciting getting a Lao restaurant, and LAO SAUSAGE, so close to home.

Lao Sausage aka Sai Oua at Lao Der

Much like Northern Thai cuisine (and Isan too) Lao food is known for its bold and flavorful dishes that often feature a mix of sweet and sour and spicy and salty flavors. Much like Vietnamese cuisine it's known for a strong emphasis on a bounty of fresh herbs. Though considered simpler than it's Southeast Asian counterparts Lao food is often less toned down in terms of spicing. Whenever I go to a Lao restaurant it's a must to start with the Lao Sausage which goes by Sai Kok. Lao food is already underrated as it is so most people out there don't know the deliciousness that a piece of Sai Kok can bring. If you've had Thai sausage in the form of 'Sai Ua' or 'Sai Krok Isan' than you've had something similar but Lao sausage often features turmeric and almost always comes served the same way which is slitted, fried, and served alongside sticky rice and jeow som (sour dipping sauce). Lao sausage is excellent as is - it's herbaceous and often has a bit of funk. It should have heavy hints of lime leaf, galangal, lemongrass, cilantro, and shallots and it's typically less coarsely ground than most other encased meat but it really comes together with Jeow sauce which commonly consists of fresh garlic, chiles, lime juice, sugar, and fish sauce all ground together with a mortar and pestle. The Lao sausage at Lao Der, who's owners come from the hub of Vientiane, is served with 'Jeow Mak Len' which is a roasted tomato based jeow sauce with a thicker texture and it’s fantastic paired with a slice of sausage and some sticky rice. They also serve Esan sausage which are little balls of sausage full of garlic and black pepper flavor served with cabbage and peanuts and is also very good. 

Esan Sausage at Lao Der

I've visited Lao Der twice now and have enjoyed everything I've tried. It's a pretty standard menu as far as the Lao dishes go but they seem to do all the classics really well. The crispy fried Lao Wings further solidified my feelings of Asian fried wings being far better than their American counterparts. Perfectly sized wings (not too big) are tossed in a mix of fish sauce, sugar and tamarind and topped with crispy garlic. These are some of my new favorite wings in town right now. Both times I visited they had a couple specials which on one visit was a spicy Lao style beef jerky which was crisp from a trip to the fryer and pungent from the lemongrass, garlic and chili powder it was rubbed with before it was fried. It also comes served with their delicious roasted tomato based jeow sauce. With summer seemingly near I'm glad to have easy access to Lao style Larb - also spelled laab, laap, larp, and lahb. Larb is traditional minced meat salad that's considered the national dish of Laos. It's known for its bold and botanical flavors and can be made with a variety of proteins including beef, pork, duck and chicken tossed with lime juice, fermented fish sauce, ground rice, and lots of fresh herbs. The 'Lab Gai' at Lao Der will be a go-to of mine in those dog days of summer as it taste even better cold out of the fridge the next day. You can't go wrong with any of these appetizers. 

Lao Wings

Lao Der Jerky

Lab Gai (diced chicken) at Lao Der

I consider Southeast Asia to be one of the worlds great soup regions as every country there has some fantastic noodle soups, including Laos. While Vietnam is the birthplace of Pho it's not the only spot where it's enjoyed. Laos has it's own adapted version due to the close proximity of the two countries. Pho gained popularity in Laos due to an influx of Vietnamese people combined with the fact Vietnam and Laos share cultural influences including food. Lao-style Pho adds sugar and a unique set of toppings including lime juice, chili peppers in oil, fried garlic, and a roasted peanut sauce. I thought the 'Lao Pho Beef' at Lao Der was decent as is but it really improved with the addition of the condiments it came with including the aforementioned peanut sauce. The broth was subtle without the extra stuff but it improved greatly with it. They use a combo of medium rare sliced beef and meatballs neither of which stood out plus they seemed to have forgotten the roasted tomatoes listed with it. 

'Lao Pho Beef' at Lao Der

The Lao style chicken noodle soup is the better pick of the soups. It's listed as 'Khao Piek Sen' on the and described as "homemade rice noodle, onion and cilantro, fried shallots, black pepper, homemade chicken meatball served in flavorful chicken broth" - flavorful is an understatement. That broth is some of the richest I've come across in Chicago. It's clearly home made with the sliced skin on chicken it comes with cooked in it. It tastes like Khao Man Gai in soup form. Khao Man Gai being the Thai version of Hainanese chicken rice (poached chicken served with a rice cooked in the broth). There were two other standouts in this fantastic bowl of soup: the meatballs and the noodles themselves. You could tell the meatballs were homemade from their delicate shape and the noodles are also made in-house which is easily distinguishable thanks to a terrifically chewy texture. This might be the best chicken noodle soup in town but don't wait until you're feeling under the weather to try it. We need more Lao food in Chicago but we may not get it if Lao Der isn’t welcomed with open arms.

Khao Piek Sen at Lao Der

Lao Der
3922 N Elston Ave
Chicago, IL 60618
(872) 241-4879
Website

Eating BIG in Rockford

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- Eating and Exploring the Screw City

Other than the google search results you won’t find a bigger collection of Illinois restaurant reviews than you’ll find over here. I’ve covered countless spots from DeKalb to Carbondale and beyond. So you shouldn’t be too surprised with todays stop - Rockford. The Screw City aka Forest City aka Reaper City is the largest city in Illinois outside of the Chicagoland area and is the states fifth most populated overall. It’s not the first spot in the Land of Lincoln that you might think of visiting and it’s probably not the second or third spot either but it’s a compelling place with lots of history and some stuff worth seeing including the Anderson Japanese Gardens which many consider the best of its kind in the Midwest. Rockford's location on the Rock River along with over 4000 acres of public parks means there’s lots of outdoor activities on offer too. I’ve never actually spent the night in Rockford in part due to its proximity to Chicago (80 miles) but I’ve stopped thru there plenty of times on the way somewhere else and have also taken a few daytrips over the years. Todays post is a culmination of all of the times I’ve stopped in Rockford to explore the area through food and what not. The food scene reflects the city itself - it's nothing fancy and definitely not trendy but it is interesting.

Sights in Rockford 
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Stockholm Inn

Our first stop is perhaps Rockford's most popular breakfast spot. If not the most popular it's certainly one if the most well known. The history of the Stockholm Inn is traced back to the 1940's when a husband and wife team with Swedish ancestry opened it under a different name. The people they sold it to kept the homestyle Swedish recipes and renamed it after Sweden's capital city. Decades later it brings alot of cultural and historical value to the people of Rockford. Locals pack the place on a daily basis. Many come for Swedish specialties like kroppkakor (potato dumplings), kaldomar (cabbage rolls), Swedish meatballs, salt herring, fruit soup, rice pudding and nut cake. Their most popular menu item are the Swedish pancakes which are a cross between a pancake and a crepe. They're thinner and lighter than their American counterparts due to the use of less flour and more butter when making them. It's common to eat these with a lingonberry sauce but I enjoy them as is with butter. 

Swedish Pancakes at Stockholm Inn
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Behr Den

Rockford's oldest restaurant is tucked away in an industrial area near the river. Behr Den has been serving the people of Rockford since 1896. It's open to the public but its location directly across the street from Behr Iron & Metal makes it a regular stop for workers of the longtime manufacturing company. According to an article from a local Rockford station it started out as a pharmacy and candy shop before turning into a restaurant over 100 years ago. Not a ton seems to have changed in the last 50 years or so, even the radio sitting on top of the counter was from another era. The prices are too. I got a bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich for just $3.50 while my friend got the Denver omelet plate for $6.25. I've visited countless blue collar type dining spots over the years and none of them felt as industrial as the Behr Den. That goes for the food and the people on top of the atmosphere there.

Breakfast at the Behr Den 
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The Norwegian 

At the time of it's opening The Norwegian was Rockford's most ambitious restaurant project. It's housed in a historic building that was bought by a local woman who grew up in the area and rehabbed it with the help of the local who donated more than $100,000 to a Kickstarter so that it could be cleared of asbestos and turned into a brunch pub and live music venue. They serve brunch with a Nordic twist with dishes like Æbleskiver. These delicious Danish pancake balls are made from a fried batter and basically a cross between a donut and a beignet. The Norwegian serves theirs with a fantastic made in-house raspberry jam and some maple syrup for dipping and I would highly recommend starting your meal with these or ending it with them. The Lyonnaise salad is a good option as far as starters go as is the gravlax Smørrebrød. They do a little Nordic twist on the smash burger called 'The Frikadeller' which is a smashed Danish meatball patty with Jarlsberg, sauerkraut, lingonberry bbq sauce and caramelized onion aioli on local baked rye. Definitely worth a stop. 

Brunch at The Norwegian
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Meads Meat Market 

One of my favorite things about the food culture in the Midwest is the abundance of local butchers that are still around. There's not as many as thee used to be but it seems like most towns in the region still have a locally owned shop for meats and more. Meads is that spot in Rockford. The family owned butcher shop has been serving the community for nearly 85 years. They didn't have a ton of meat on offer when I went in there but they do a daily sandwich special which is what really seems to bring the customers in. The hot roast beef sandwich was the special on my visit. House roasted beef is placed atop onions, cheddar, and hot peppers served on a locally made Italian roll. Not bad at all. 

Hot Roast Beef at Meads Meat Market 
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Lino's

I once stopped at Lino's back in my college days riding to and from Madison. So I went ahead and got reacquainted as I was recently in the area. Lino's is Rockfords most popular pizzeria dating back to 1972. They shred their own cheese blend and the sausage is made on-site. Pizzas are cooked in an old Faulds Oven which is a defunct Chicago company, lots of local pizzerias still use them. They call this “Rockford style” as it’s thicker than cracker thin but still much thinner than deep dish. Actually it’s similar in girth to most thin crust spots in and around Chicagoland. It’s also a place of celebration as they cater and do banquets so lots of people in the area have a connection to the pizza and their house special salad with sausage. You can get a pizza, a salad, and a 2 liter of pop for $20 (takeout). I was most impressed with the sheer amount of people visiting be it for dine in or for takeout where they run a Chick-Fil-A type of ship getting customers in and out in an impressive amount of time.

Salad and Pizza at Lino's 
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Olympic Tavern 

If you're riding through Rockford and looking for a sit-down type of spot for dinner you should check out the Olympic Tavern. It's a Rockford institution dating back to 1945. It's got a very Wisconsin tavern and supper club type of vibe as far as the food and the atmosphere goes. You don't see fried bluegill around too often so I like to get it when I have the chance to do so and Olympic Tavern has it available regularly so that was an easy decision for me on my visit. If you've never had bluegill it's similar to lake perch in flavor and texture so it's best served lightly breaded like those seen below. 

Blue Gill Filets at Olympic Tavern 

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Lao Kitchen 

If you're a Chicagoan passing through Rockford and thinking about stopping for some food you might want to consider Lao Kitchen considering there's no Lao restaurants in Chicago (there's one ghost kitchen). To my knowledge there's a small Lao community in the Rockford area which could be due to its proximity to Wisconsin where there's a fairly large Lao presence. Lao food has slowly become one of my favorites going back to my college days in Madison which is where I was first introduced to the flavors before falling even further in love with the food while in Northern Thailand with whom Laos shares a border as well as many different ingredients and recipes. Since then Lao food has become pretty popular across the country with more and more spots identifying as Lao and not Thai. Lao Kitchen has a relatively small menu with mostly standard offerings including Lao sausage which might be my favorite encased meat these days (it's top 5 for sure). I love how Lao sausage packs all the wonderful flavors and aromas of Southeast Asia both in the link itself and also from the spicy and sour jeow sauce that it's typically served with. Add in some sticky rice and you got a meal in of itself but I also rec the Lard Na which is typically found on Thai menus but is traced back to Laos where Chinese people would cook stir fried noodles covered in gravy. Lao Kitchen makes a very good version. 

Lunch at Lao Kitchen 
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Tortacos Soto

Rockford might not be Illinois' Second City when it comes to tacos, that's Aurora, but there's still lots of taco options. I came across Tortacos Soto while browsing the menus of local taquerias. They have a couple of guisada (stewed meats) offerings with chicken and I enjoyed both of them. 

Pollo en Rajas con Arroz at Tortacos Soto 
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Beef-A-Roo 

If you're passing through the area and looking for something quick well then I have to mention Beef-A-Roo bc this wouldn't be a proper Rockford food post without it. The regional fast food chain opened their first location in 1967 and now has seven locations in the Rockford area while currently being in the process of a rapid expansion to a handful of other states. Beef-A-Roo is known for roast beef sandwiches which are not to be confused with Italian beef. These are more like Arby's though it's fans will tell you it's so much better and they might be right but if we're being real they're pretty similar to me. Then again it was sold by the original founders a few years back so it's likely that things have changed. I'm not saying it's terrible but it's typical fast food as far as it's quality goes. 

Roast Beef and Fries at Beef -A-Roo 
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Zammuto's 

I've been making summertime stops at Zammuto's for more than 20 years now. But its history goes back way further than that. It was opened as a grocery store in 1925 by a local Italian who may or may not have had a connection to the head of the Rockford mob family ran by a man with the same surname. The grocery was transported into a granita / ice cream stand at some point in the 50's or 60's and was later sold but the granita recipe lives on with the current owner. Granita is a product of Sicily, a cousin to Italian ice in that it's a semi frozen dessert made from fruit, water, and sugar. Zammuto's serves both granita and soft serve and they combine the two of them for their signature menu item - the "Unusual". They're so well liked that other dairy stands around town also serve them. 

The Unusual at Zammuto's 
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More from Illinois

Click 'Illinois' under tags for more than 50 posts including...

Eating BIG in Peoria

Roadfood in Galesburg

Southern Illinois Roadtrip

Smashed Burgers of Central Illinois 

The Illinois Fried Chicken Trail

See ya next time @chibbqking

Eating BIG Milwaukee Pt. 3

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- More Eating and Drinking in MKE

It’s been quite a while since I checked in with a report from the Brew City aka Cream City. But I’ve visited plenty of times since then so it’s time for a new roundup on what’s good in what I like to call my “favorite Chicago suburb” which is a slight joke but it’s proximity to here makes it my favorite spot to spend a day within two hours of Chicago. I’ve always considered Milwaukee a mini Chicago or a little sibling of sorts since it’s so similar to the Chicago I remember as a kid. But Milwaukee is less gentrified and less developed in terms of new buildings replacing old ones so it really does bring back memories of the Chicago where there was a tavern on every corner and such. Plus it sits on the same lake so lots Milwaukee's lakefront is similar to Chicago right down to the rich peoples suburbs being north of the city. There's no spot outside of Chicago I feel more at home in than Milwaukee. 

Sights from Milwaukee 

I’ve been visiting Milwaukee for more than 20 years so I’ve watched it grow in many different ways. One of it’s biggest changes for the better seems to be it’s food and drink scene which has always been fun from an old school perspective but in the last decade or so has grown into a full fledged scene that features all sorts of new and interesting things that would seem way out of place 20 years ago. I ranked it the 5th best food city in the Midwest (behind Chicago, Detroit, MSP, and St. Louis) but I also said it’s got the best chance of rising bc it’s always getting better. Just like Chicago, Milwaukee is at it's best over summer and into the Fall with it's many farmers markets, festivals and something Chicago doesn't have, it's beer gardens. So, just in time for Summerfest, here's where to eat in MKE. 

Sights from Milwaukee
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Allie Boy’s Bagelry & Luncheonette

Good bagels in Milwaukee?!?! Yeah I think so though I'm by no means an expert in bagels (only New Yorkers can be, right? ;) but on a serious note this spot is all about it's bagel sandwiches which are something I don't always enjoy as a bagel isn't always a great vessel for a sandwich. But the Reubeneski is an exception. It's their ode to the Reuben in bagel sandwich form. It's made with brined and smoked pastrami brisket, melted gruyere, special sauce with caramelized onion, house kraut and dill. Served on a pumpernickel bagel. Allie Boys makes for a great way to start your day in MKE. 

The Reubeneski at Allie Boy's Bagelry
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Riley's Sandwich Co. 

One of the best steak sandwiches I've had in some time came from this friendly neighborhood establishment in Shorewood. It's owned by a couple who share a love for dogs and sandwiches. The space is canine friendly so don't be surprised to find a dog taking selfies inside. The sandwiches will also surprise, particularly the steak offerings which are all made with a wonderful medium rare sous vide beef tenderloin that works particularly well in sandwiches due to it's tenderness. The signature offering is the Steak Kensington which is made with slices of tenderloin, a housemade horseradish spread plus mushroom, onion, and cheese on a perfectly sourced roll from a local Italian bakery. 

The Steak Kensington at Riley's Sandwich Co. 
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Sweet Basil 

Lao Sausage is taking over the cheese and dairy state in ways the bratwurst did previously. Traditionally called Sai Oua or Sai Gok it’s become a dish that many Americans are introduced to Lao food through and it’s the perfect introduction to what Lao food is all about. They always come bursting with all the flavors and aromatics that make Laotian food so sensational. What I really love about Sweet Basil's Lao sausage offering is the option to add a flight of Jeow sauce in three different styles. They include 1) Jeow Bong: Thick Laotian chili paste made with sundried chilies, galangal, garlic, and other ingredients commonly found in Laos. 2) Jeow Mak Len: A Laotian tomato dipping sauce, similar to a salsa. Tomatoes, chilies, and onions are grilled, then mashed with a mortar and pestle into a potent sauce seasoned with lime and cilantro. 3) Jeow Som: A liquid dipping sauce with sweet, sour, and citrus flavors. All of them pairing perfectly with both the Lao sausage and an order of sticky rice.

Lao Sausage with Sticky Rice and Jeow Flight at Sweet Basil
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Amilinda

 

Chicago (and the Midwest in general) doesn't have a ton of Portuguese restaurants. So I'm always intrigued whenever I find one. A 2019 trip to Portugal was memorable and I kind of fell in love with the food while there. Amilinda is located in downtown Milwaukee and calls themselves a Spanish / Portuguese inspired spot. They have entrees like Piri Piri Chicken so it's definitely got some very Portuguese dishes on offer. The chicken is what got me in but my visit was two years ago. I checked the menu and the chicken remains so that's cool. We enjoyed our visit and would go back.

Portguese Food at Amilinda
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Interval

I don't drink coffee so forgive me if I'm wrong but Milwaukee seems to have a really strong coffee scene. There's certainly alot of independent coffee shops and some of them do more than just caffeine. Interval was one that caught my eye due to it's food menu and also it's sleek space. It's a community driven spot with a small hyper-seasonal menu of Scandinavian-inspired plates and homemade pastries served throughout the day. We snacked on a variety of open faced sandwiches (Smørrebrød) on our visit which was a while back but it's a spot I've been meaning to get back to. 

Scandinavian Bites at Interval 
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Triciclo Peru

This popular Peruvian restaurant grew into a full service spot from a small food cart that used to be found around town. They gained fame through their large Peruvian empanadas and now boast a full menu plus bar at their Washington Park location. I've tried their empanadas which are excellent and also their Peruvian home cooking in the form of Tallarin Saltado which is the same thing as Lomo Saltado except you substitute tallarin pasta for the fries. Included with the tagliatelle pasta is seared tenderloin, onions, tomatoes and a rich brown gravy. Peruvian food always tastes home cooked. 

Tallarin Saltado at Triciclo Peru
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Buffalo Boss

It's not often spots from Brooklyn open up in Milwaukee like Buffalo Boss did when they signed up to be a tenant in The Sherman Phoenix complex. The marketplace / community center replaced a burnt out bank in a neighborhood that was in need of positive economic change. There's some cool stuff to be found inside this complex and most if not all of it is Black owned. Buffalo Boss sources organically raised, hormone-free and antibiotic-free chicken wings. They’re also do meatless Impossible Wings. Hormone free chickens means these wings aren't super sized which to me is a good thing. 

Buffalo Wings at Buffalo Boss 
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Drift MKE

Fans of the Australian and Kiwi loved meat pie should head over to this mobile cafe for a taste of their New Zealand style meat pies. When I last visited it was parked right outside of the Public Market. I do love these as I learned from a trip to South Africa where they're also very popular. Over the last five or ten years they've become readily avail in North America too. Below is a delicious chicken curry pie.  

New Zealand Style Meat Pie at Drift MKE
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Mazorca Tacos

Milwaukee has a good a low key taco truck culture. Not just trucks but there's lots of mom and pop spots worth checking out bc you never know what type of regional treats they might be making. There's also some permanent food trailers in Milwaukee worth seeking out and Mazroca Tacos at the Zocalo Food Park is worth finding. It's the city's first food trailer park ala cities like Austin and Portland. Mazorca is the anchor as this was once a lone trailer parked in a vacant lot as seen in the pic above. 

Tacos at Mazorca Tacos 
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Tostadas By Maranta 

When in Milwaukee I like to keep my eye out for street food stands like Tostada by Maranta. They make "farm to table" tostadas. The current schedule can be found on their instagram. Ingredients are sourced locally and they make the tostada shells too. We tried a couple including a pork belly and a chicken, both stacked high and full of flavor. I'll be keeping an eye out for them on future visits. 

Tostada by Maranta 

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Taqueria La Sieritta 

I was told this place makes some of the best tacos in Milwaukee and that would indeed be true. I say so bc they’d be really good in Chicago or anywhere for that matter. In fact there’s some great taco spots here just like there are in so many other spots in the Midwest. Tacos are the new burgers in that you’re never far from a good one. Crisp bits of steak and chunks of tender suadero pictured below.

Tacos at Taqueria La Sieritta 

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Mae Velma's Corned Beef

As I've discussed in previous posts the corned beef scene in Milwaukee is first class. I think it's on a level all it's own due to the fact most spots hand slice a steamed product that resembles Texas brisket in thickness. The online reviews of Mae Velma's vary greatly but my visit was great. Their Rueben sandwich was perfectly constructed with thick and tender corned beef between nicely toasted bread. Even better is the fact you can use their drive thru to grab one. There's nothing like this in Chicago.  

Reuben Sandwich at Mae Velma's Corned Beef 
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Damascus Gate Restaurant

One of my favorite streets to ride and or walk around is the Historic Mitchell Street which is rich with history, dating back to the mid 1800's. At one time it was known as "The Downtown of Milwaukee's South Side. Damascus Gate opened back in 2019 and it was the first Syrian restaurant in town when it did. It's operated by a family of Syrian refugees who were welcomed to Milwaukee by a local doctor of Syrian descent. It's been welcomed with open arms by all including the local Muslim population who frequented during Ramadan when a fixed price buffet featured all sorts of dishes you wont find anywhere else in the area but here. I visited on a quiet weekday so the menu was a bit more typical like a plate of mujadara which is a mixture of lentils and rice with fried onions on top. I always order this dish when I see it and it never disappoints. The falafel wrap was also really good. 

Syrian Food at Damascus Gate 
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Taqwas Bakery and Restaurant 

You can find another Middle Eastern gem down in Greenfield not far the airport. Taqwas Bakery is ran by a woman from Jordan, the restaurants namesake, who opened the place in 2020. The centerpiece of the inside is a beautiful brick oven where savory pastries like beef fatayer are made. These came straight from the oven making them one of the most satisfying Middle Eastern snacks I've come across. We also tried the Falafel, Arayes, and Diwali. All of the freshly baked stuff was outstanding but the diwali (grape leaves with meat) seemed to be a few days old with very little taste or texture.

Jordanian Food at Taqwas Bakery and Restaurant 

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House of Papaya

I've featured the former iteration of 5EXEN when it was known as Phongsavan Market. It's the main marketplace for the areas Hmong community which is a group of people that traditionally lived in Laos, Vietnam and China and are an ethnic group, not a nationality. Both Milwaukee and the Minneapolis areas have Hmong communities and places like 5EXEN Market is where many will shop. It's always switching up as far as ownership and layout but the last I visited they had just opened a new food court in the back. There was room for maybe 6-8 stalls but only half of them were open on our visit. We tried a bunch of the typical Hmong snacks like the chicken wings stuffed with glass noodles and the sausage and such. Plus a extra funky bamboo salad that got funkier with each bite. 

Hmong Food at 5EXEN Market 
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Three Brothers 

I used a trip up north to watch the Cubs as an excuse to finally check out this James Beard ‘America’s Classic’ award winner in Milwaukee. There’s tons of old school spots up here and I’ve been to most of them but Three Brothers was a spot always left unchecked with each passing visit. Located in an otherwise residential part of the Bayview neighborhood is one of the best kept Schlitz Tied Houses left. The triangular spit of land was purchased by the Schlitz Brewing Company in 1897 for $250 and the building was built shortly thereafter. An immigrant from Yugoslavia named Branko Radicevic Sr. bought the building and moved his tavern popular for Serbian food and culture here in 1956. The Three Brothers name was chosen bc Branko wanted his three sons to eventually run the place. Three Brothers is still in the same family today and as you can see very little has changed. No cheese curds or Spotted Cow to be found here but they do make a bangin’ Burek. The house specialty is Branko’s wife’s recipe and it takes an hour to bake so don’t plan on getting in and out if you’re dining in. It was a warm day on our visit and the Croatian salad was a great start. It’s made with finely diced tomato, onion, and green pepper mixed in a special dressing and topped with Serbian cheese. Burek comes in one size and your choice of beef, cheese, or spinach. I could only eat one slice but damn it was delicious. I need to revisit on a crisp October night when the smell of sarma is in the air.

Serbian Food at Three Brothers
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Zaffiro's Pizza

Zaffiro's was basically the first spot I became a regular at in Milwaukee. Not in the sense of a local but of a visitor in that I've stopped in regularly over the years. Not every trip but often enough. It's in my opinion the second best tavern thin pizza not just in Wisconsin but anywhere (I put Wells Brothers in Racine at #1). They've been open since 1954 and I haven't found a thinner sausage pizza anywhere. 

Sausage and Half Giardiniera at Zaffiro's Pizza

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Leon's Frozen Custard

Last stop? Leon’s. More times than not this is the spot I hit before heading home. Unlike other custard stands it’s open year round. Another thing that sets them apart from all others is their Spanish Burger. What’s that you ask? Well it’s kind of a cross between a loose meat and a Sloppy Joe. It’s not quite as dry as a loose meat but also not quite as wet as a sloppy joe. It’s somewhere in between and they’re better than any loose meat or Sloppy Joe that I’ve ever tried. Why is it called a Spanish Burger isn’t quite known but it could be related to the “Spanish Dogs” of Indiana which you can read about HERE. They cost like $2.50 each which is a pretty great deal in todays day and age. I like to get a couple with a cherry phosphate float. I think it’s important to note that the owner of this longtime stand (est. 1942) was in the news a couple of years ago for making his staff communicate only in English even though many of the employees and also the customers speak Spanish. It’s a bitch ass move but it’s his business and it happens to be the type of spot that people from all walks of life enjoy so I figure it’s just a case of an old man that just doesn’t get it but I fault no one that wants to avoid Leon's bc of it. 

Spanish Burger at Leon's Frozen Custard 
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Click HERE for a google maps guide to the spots featured in this post

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See ya next time @chibbqking