-Grubbing in Chicago
Five of a Kind: Summer Bounty
Summer never fails to fly by as far as the timing goes. Where did it go?! Mornings are already starting to feel like fall while the days are getting shorter and college football returns this weekend. I think the main determining factor to most of when summer ends is students going back to school and just about all of them are back in class at this point. But technically summer doesn’t end until August 31st or September 22nd depending on whether you go by the meteorological end or the astronomical end. So you still have some time to indulge in these delicious summer dishes that I recently enjoyed.
Bungalow by Middle Brow (Logan Square)
Bungalow by Middle Brow is one of my favorite spots to eat during the summer months. The pizza is outstanding year round but the rest of the menu really shines over the summer when they take full advantage of the bounty that comes with it. They have a rotating menu item called a ‘pizza sandwich’ which is the kitchen leaning into what it does best: taking their outstanding fermented pizza dough and treating it like sandwich bread. The current iteration is a BLT and it’s really, really good. Bacon is paired with locally grown lettuce and tomato plus togarashi mayo in their signature sourdough pizza crust. Typically the tomato is the most important element of a BLT but the fermented pizza bread is what makes this sandwich so special. It’s airy and crisp and golden on the outside, with a chewy interior and slight tang from the long fermentation. Another candidate for 'Sandwich of the Year'.
BLT Pizza Sandwich at Bungalow by Middle Brow
__________________________________________________
Inspired Indian (Evanston)
Speaking of summertime sandwiches - I really liked my pre-beach visit to the Inspired Indian in Evanston. What an interesting little sandwich shop located in the old Al’s Deli space on Noyes street just steps away from the train station. It’s ran by a business lady who originally started the company as a subscription-box business selling pre-measured Indian spice kits before opening the Evanston storefront back in 2021. Last year she introduced a tight menu of vegetarian sandwiches using popular Indian flavor combinations as the baseline. I tried the 'Bombay Sandwich' which is the most popular style of sandwich in Mumbai. It typically consists of cumin-turmeric mashed potato, pickled red onion, tomato, cucumber, green pepper, and beets. At Inspired Indian it also comes with chaat masala, a cilantro and mint mayo, Kashmiri chili aioli and a house blend of shredded white cheddar and Muenster cheese. All of the sandwiches come with masala potato chips and an Indian spiced cabbage slaw, and are served on toasted sourdough panini bread. You can still buy the spice kits here too and although there’s no indoor seating there’s a very nice public space with tables and chairs across the street where people can eat. I wandered over there and thoroughly enjoyed my sandwich while soaking up some sun. It tasted really fresh and was clearly made with care. I’ll be back.
Bombay Sandwich at Inspired Indian
__________________________________________________
La Cosecha at Green City Market (Lincoln Park)
There’s no doubt that Green City Market in Lincoln Park is the best farmers market in the city as far as produce goes but I always thought it left a little to be desired in the prepared foods department. Well I visited this past weekend and noticed a new to me stand selling tortillas and stopped to take a look at what La Cosecha Tortilla Company was about. When I saw they were based out of Madison I realized I’d heard of them before though this was the first time I’ve seen them or their product in Chicago. They had a smoked trout tostada on special and it was one of the best things I’ve ate this summer. An organic non-GMO tortilla made with Midwest corn was fried until crisp and topped with Sungold tomatoes, cucumbers, pickled cabbage, dill-Canzonetta cheese spread, and basil. I didn’t realize it until after I had left but every topping was acquired right there at the market making for a very high quality snack. I talked to the people behind La Cosecha and they told me they’re in the process of moving to Delavan (WI) and they hope to have their tortillas available on the Illinois side of the border soon. I suggested they reach out to Agora Market so be on the lookout for them.
Smoked Trout Tostada at Green City Market
__________________________________________________
Andros Taverna at the Farmers Market (Logan Square)
At a time when pretty much everything is getting worse, props to the folks behind the Logan Square Farmers Market which has actually gotten better with its new setup. Not only is it better situated as far as the new layout goes but the vendors are getting better too, particularly those selling prepared food. It’s been about a month since the folks behind Andros Taverna set up a stand ran by my guy Luis who I met the first week. They’re grilling up chicken and pork skewers over live charcoal and serving them in Andros’ signature woodfired pita. Chicago isn’t a big souvlaki town but we really got a good one with these which are the best I’ve had outside of Greece and better than a few in Greece too. The pork is nice and smoky with just the right bite and it pairs perfectly with their delicious dill tzatziki plus lettuce, red onion, and a slither of harissa for some nice spice. The pita in of itself is incredible to where you can put almost anything in there and it would be good but the current combo of flavors would be tough to top. I think I’ve been by for one of these three of the four times they've been there. Important to note these are not available at the restaurant, only Sundays at the farmers market. They also have nice looking Turkish bagels with spreads and some interesting pastries too.
Pork Souvlaki at Logan Square Farmers Market
__________________________________________________
Trecena (Dunning)
Last but not least I recently attended a Trecena dinner which is a tasting menu ran out of Santa Masa Tamaleria. Santa Masa is owned by Chef Danny Espinoza and his wife Johana who are also behind Trecena, the five course tasting menu exploring Chicano food inspired by memory, technique, and the evolving conversation around Mexican cuisine. They do these dinners a few times a month and I was fortunate to be invited to one by Danny and his lovely wife. It's truly all in the family here as Danny’s father in-law and another family member lend a helping hand. It’s a small and intimate meal and each dish comes with a description and a story. We started with a wonderful shrimp aguachile that was extra refreshing on a hot summer night. Next out was a play on barbacoa spiced shawarma served on a warm pita dipped in beef fat. I didn’t get a chance to write down every last detail but this was definitely my type of dish. Same can be said for a plate of cheffed up chicken flautas which were hot and crisp and sat on a tasty pile of black beans alongside some sort of sour cream mousse. The fried flutes were topped with cabbage for crunch and some cheese added saltiness. Fourth dish out was a plate of grilled tri-tip with a lip licking sauce that had peppers and other Mexican forward flavors. The sliced meat was served with a crispy rice taco which was arroz wrapped in a grilled cheese crust. Danny’s wife Jhoana is also a chef and she specializes in pastries and desserts and she absolutely crushed the final course. Listening to her description it sounded like she just kind of put together this bowl of chopped strawberries with a bunch of other stuff that was warm and cold plus crisp and soft. A strawberry smorgasbord of sorts. I had a great time at this leisurely dinner that runs around $90 for five ever changing courses and it’s byob which helps keep the costs down - highly recommended.
Dinner at Trecena
__________________________________________________
