-Grubbing in Chicago
Afro-Caribbean Food in Avondale
I’d been meaning to check out Spice by CMB for a while now and I was finally able to do so last week. Located in Avondale at 2853 N. Kedzie Ave., it’s the second coming of a successful catering operation led by hospitality veteran Mychael Bonner, who opened the full service restaurant last February. The menu focuses on Afro-Caribbean flavors in a modern setting. It's located in what some would call a “cursed location”. The building has hosted a few restaurants over the years and none of them seemed to stick. I’ll admit I was a bit worried about this place making it in part due to the fact it was really slow the first couple of months. But social media is still a powerful tool for restaurants and a favorable review from Infatuation created a domino effect to where it was absolutely popping on our visit.
We snagged seats at the bar which was fine by me as there was a World Cup game on the TV and the vibes were lively. Both the setup inside and the menu feel like something I would come across in South Florida (if you know you know). The food is a mix of African and Caribbean flavors thru the lens of the chef and his team. We started with a plate of crispy black eyed pea fritters which were a hit. The menu lists tomato relish and herb ranch in the description but there was also slices of fresh jalapeño giving it a bit of a Mexican vibe. These were great as far as taste but they were served lukewarm which is my only complaint. It's even priced reasonably by today’s standards at $8.90.
Next up was Creole shrimp fondue which was a favorite of the Infatuation crew and now us too. This was an awesome appetizer for a group in that it’s a bowl of cheesy fondue mixed with shrimp and peppers served with a bunch of house fried plantain chips that make for a great delivery vehicle for the oozy melted cheese and shrimp mixture. For those that are reading this and questioning the pairing of shrimp and cheese I’m guessing you never had a shrimp quesadilla on the coast of Mexico. It’s actually a crazy good combination. The chips were a tad bit oily but I can get past that when they’re made from scratch like these were. Visit during Happy Hour and appetizers are even cheaper.

Creole Shrimp Fondue at Spice By CMB
As far as the entrees we both knew what we wanted as soon as we first saw the menu. For Erica it was the grilled branzino with a chermoula spice and Carolina broken rice. Chermoula is a vibrant North African sauce and relish originating from the Maghreb region. It’s basically the North African answer to chimichurri or pesto. The sauce is built on fresh herbs, citrus, and warm spices and traditionally paired with grilled seafood. At Spice By CMB they rub chermoula onto filleted branzino which is grilled and served over a bed of Carolina gold rice which is a highly prized heritage grain known for its rich history and exceptional culinary versatility. Two thumbs up from the both of us.
I rarely eat oxtail in Chicago unless making it for myself. But that’s because I don’t see it on menus often. I usually get my oxtail fix in South Florida where it’s much more common. So I knew what I was getting as soon as I saw braised oxtail on offer. They served me three meaty pieces that fell right off the bone alongside brussels sprouts and cassava dumplings, all of it sitting in a dark and delicious Caribbean style brown gravy. This was everything I was hoping it would be. The dumplings are a bit chewy and somewhat sweet Caribbean style dumplings made from grated cassava root. I also tried a side of the Jollof rice which is a dish known to create more arguments than most as far as how it’s supposed to be made. I’m far from an expert but I enjoyed this version. It was fresh and fluffy full of spice. They do brunch on Sundays and offer a fried Jollof rice with spam dish that has my name on it.
Spice By CMB
2853 N Kedzie Ave
Chicago, IL 60618
(773) 654-3376
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