Coup de Thai

-Grubbing in Chicago
Modern Southern Thai Food in Lakeview

Thai food continues to ascend in Chicago right now. You may remember back in March when I posted about a hot new Thai restaurant from NYC that opened a location in the South Loop. Well today we’re going to check out a hot new Thai restaurant from California that opened in Lake View East.

Recently Opened in Lakeview East

Coup de Thai comes to us from Los Gatos California (homebase of Netflix). It opened at the end of July and started gaining buzz almost immediately. We visited on a Friday night in the beginning of August and the entire neighborhood was buzzing with people from all walks of life and that spilled over into the restaurant. Coup de Thai describes themselves as a modern southern Thai restaurant - it’s currently byob but that may change. The menu is smaller and made up of two sections 1) The Opening Act and 2) Center Stage. When I visit a restaurant like this I like to find menu items that stand out in terms of dishes you don’t really see elsewhere and I found a couple immediately in the ‘Dragon Balls’ and the ‘Tom Yum Ceviche’. First out were the Dragon Balls which are described on the menu as “spicy chicken balls fried with mint, shallot, green onion, cilantro, kafir lime leaves, and salad.” This appetizer is actually at the center of a lawsuit with their California location that alleges this dish was too spicy and caused permanent damage to a customer - sounds a bit like a Karen’s claim but I won’t pretend to know the whole story. What I do know is the version served at this location was far from spicy. They were nicely spiced and I liked the fresh herbs that came with them and the dipping sauce too but they weren’t spicy at all. Though the Tom Yum Ceviche was a different story completely. Shrimp gets the ceviche treatment with tom yum ingredients resulting in a bold and sour and super spicy dish. We also tried the ‘Golden Shrooms’ on our waitresses rec and those were also good. I liked the use of enoki mushrooms and the tangy chili sauce that came with it was excellent.

Appetizers at Coup de Thai

I counted about five Southern Thai dishes on the menu including Khua Kling which is a spicy dry fried curry consisting of ground chicken stir fried in a homemade southern Thai style red curry paste with lots of fresh herbs mixed in. When they say that a dish is spicy here they’re talking spicy like you would find in Thailand. Real deal heat. If you don’t like spicy there’s options like Shrimp in Noodle Claypot which is one of my favorites going back to the first time I tried it at the Floating Market in Bangkok. Coup de Thai makes theirs with firm black tiger shrimp and glass noodles tossed with ginger and onion and served in a piping hot claypot. I love the different textures this dish gives off.

Shrimp Claypot Noodles at Coup de Thai

Since they just opened on our visit there wasn’t much info out there about what to get but the Crab Curry caught my eye as it’s a pretty typical southern Thai dish and I had read somewhere that all the curries are made from scratch so it seemed like it would be something worth trying and that it was. The menu describes their crab curry as jumbo lump crab meat with wild betel leaves simmered in a homemade turmeric curry which doesn’t sound all that spicy but this was one of the spiciest (and most pleasurable) dishes I’ve ate of late. It took me back to a famous stall in Bangkok where we ordered the stir fried crab with medium heat and it was just about the spiciest thing we ever ate but we couldn’t stop eating all the luscious crab which was the same story with the crab curry at Coup de Thai which comes filled with chunks of soft and succulent crab. This dish will either blow your tastebuds through the roof or have you gasping for breath while grabbing for your water - it won’t help. If you can handle the heat you’ll be taken to levels rarely reached with Thai curries in Chicago. 

Southern Crab Curry

Coup de Thai
2932 N Broadway
Chicago, IL 60657
(224) 236-2636
Website

Istmo Oaxacan Cuisine

-Grubbing in Chicago  
Oaxacan Food in Lakeview

Chicago’s biggest food strength outside of its homegrown cuisine is its Mexican food scene - it’s arguably the best in the country east of LA. This is driven by the fact we have a perfect mix of both mom and pop taqueria types and also a large group of classically trained chefs cooking up cutting edge Mexican cuisine. But even still there’s room for growth and a newish Mexican restaurant in Lakeview is focusing in on Oaxacan cuisine, which has always been somewhat lacking in Chicago (the majority of Chicago's Mexican population hail from three states - Jalisco, Michoacán, Guerrero).

Recently Opened in Lakeview

Istmo opened on Clark just north of Belmont last summer. It’s the product of Chef Carlos López Muñoz who hails from Oaxaca. Istmo de Tehuantepec is the largest region in the state of Oaxaca and according to a story I read over at Eater Muñoz became interested in Mexican gastronomy while living in Finland, where real deal Mexican food is basically non existent. The Chicago chapter of his life story starts out at the Michelin-starred Mexique where he staged for Chef Carlos Gaytán after returning from Mexico upon completing his culinary studies down there. He also worked with Rick Bayless. Say what you will about Skip’s brother but him and his restaurant(s) have pushed Chicago's Mexican food scene forward with all the chefs that have come and gone thru his kitchen(s). Many of whom have gone on to open their own spots. Istmo is the latest and one of the more interesting due to a couple things 1) it’s very regional choosing to hone in on the flavors of Oaxaca and 2) it chose to roll with breakfast and lunch upon first opening, though they recently introduced a dinner menu.

a peek inside

The inside of Istmo feels like a spot you might come across in a hip and happening Oaxaca City neighborhood. It’s modern and bright and a very nice place to meet up with friends and or family. Visit on the weekend and you’ll feel a very uplifting energy upon entering. Locals have very much shown up for the modern takes on Oaxacan breakfast classics like the Enfrijoladas ($19). This dish traces its origins back to pre-Columbian times in Oaxaca and is one of the most popular versions of enchiladas in all of Mexico. Silky black bean sauce is poured over handmade corn tortillas topped with queso and crema and served aside plantains and a fried egg. You can add grilled steak, chicken tinga or green chorizo made locally by Santa Masa Tamaleria though it’s a pretty perfect plate of breakfast as is.

Enfrijoladas at Istmo

On another visit I tried the Huevos Divorciados ($18) which translates to “divorced eggs” which is a humorous name for this Mexican breakfast favorite featuring two eggs sitting in two different salsas, and they're not on speaking terms. The version at Istmo is made with a green tomatillo salsa and a red roasted tomato salsa split directly down the middle with a fried egg on each side plus a few slices of avocado, also split down the middle. It comes with fried made in house tortillas which have that distinct corn flavor plus creamy Oaxacan black beans and again it’s an exciting plate of breakfast and a meat free one at that. If you’re really hungry I suggest adding a side of their extra flavorful Papas Bravas breakfast potatoes ($7) which come doused in a spicy and smoky Guajillo and Chipotle aioli.

Papas Bravas

Huevos Divorciados at Istmo

If you want some red meat in the morning I suggest trying the Garnachas Istmeñas ($13) which was the most intriguing menu item to me as I’m always on the prowl for dishes you won’t find elsewhere and these tasty treats are a regional specialty of the previously mentioned Isthmus region of Oaxaca. Little boats of heirloom corn are patted out and cooked before being filled with red adobo marinated steak and topped with queso istmeño (a dried age cheese). They come with a cup of pickled vegetables on the side and are served two to an order so they make for a good appetizer option. I do find the prices at Istmo a bit off putting as nobody really wants to pay $25 for a meatless breakfast these days but that seems to be the norm. That said Mexican breakfast is underrated and the prices here are no different than other popular brunch places though the food feels much more personal. 

Garnachas Istmeñas at Istmo

Istmo Oaxacan Cuisine
3231 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60657
(872) 315-2034
Website

Mahanakhon Noodle Bar

-Grubbing in Chicago  
Real Deal Thai Food in Lakeview

As the year comes to a close we’re going to start seeing lots of end of the year food lists listing the best new open openings and the saddest closings and so forth. Today’s post is a crossing of an opening and a closing. One of the year’s saddest closings had to be Sticky Rice on Western. The popular Northern Thai restaurant closed their doors after pushing the city’s Thai food scene forward for more than 20 years. It’s a tough loss for fellow fans of bold Thai flavors but thanks to places like Sticky Rice the Thai food options in Chicago have never been better. Enter Mahanakhon Noodle Bar.

Recently Opened in in Lakeview

Mahanakhon Noodle Bar caught my attention as soon as I learned of its opening this past summer. It’s pretty easy to tell what type of customer base a Thai restaurant is aiming for by looking at the menu and the menu at Mahanakhon was clearly geared towards the local Thai community. As the name suggests there’s an entire section of Thai style noodle soups including two of my absolute favorites - Boat Noodles and Khao Soi as well as lesser known offerings. There’s also a “Chefs Special” section which lists some interesting items including grilled giant river prawns in a seafood sauce - they were out when I tried to order them. The first time I came here was a hot day so the soups weren’t calling my name the same way as an order of cold noodles. I tried the Yum Woon Sen (glass noodles salad) and was captivated by the fresh and funky flavors. Perfect paired with an ice cold beer on a 90+ degree day. It’s made up of a delicious medley of shrimp, minced pork, snow mushrooms, tomato, shallot, celery, carrot, scallion, chili, sugar, pickle garlic, fish sauce, lime juice. 

Yum Woon Sen

I’ve been obsessing over Thailand’s unofficial national dish of late. Pad Krapao or Phat kaphrao is a super popular dish consisting of spicy stir-fried minced meat and Thai basil. Chicken is the most common protein used but both pork and beef are also common. I decided I wanted to play around with it in my own kitchen but first I had to try a handful of versions around town including the Ka Prow Moo at Mahanakhon.  They use stir-fried minced pork, homemade sauce, chopped garlic, and chili with Thai hot basil served over rice and topped with crispy sunny side up egg. It’s a delicious mix of savory, spicy, and has a slightly sweet at the very end of each bite. Not only does it have great flavor but it’s neither too dry nor too wet so I would say it’s in the running for the best Phat kaphrao in town.  

Ka Prow Moo 

I waited a bit for the weather to get cold before trying their most popular items such as the Boat Noodles and the Khao Soi. Each of these beloved noodle soups represent Thailand’s two biggest cities in Bangkok (boat noodles) and Chiang Mai (Khao Soi) respectively. On my trip to Thailand back in 2018 I fell in love with both of these dishes and they’ve since found their way onto more Thai menus in Chicago and beyond but rarely are they on the same menu and it’s even rarer to find a restaurant where they’re equally delicious. I’m not sure which one I prefer but that’s a good thing as they both hit the spot. Boat Noodles got their name because they were once served from boats roaming Bangkok's canals. Backers of Boat Noodles love their savory rich broth and it’s beautiful dark hue which comes from a bit of pork blood added to the beef broth along with bits of tender beef, stewed beef shank, crispy pork rinds and Thai style meatballs which are dense but loaded with flavor from the broth they soak up. You have to go to Bangkok to get real deal Boat Noodles but nonetheless the version served here brought me back to Boat Noodle Alley which is a well known canal just north of the iconic Victory Monument where you’ll find Thailand’s best boat noodle vendors. 

Boat Noodles at Mahanakhon Noodle Bar

Khao Soi is just as craveable. It's found all over Thailand but comes from the northern part where it’s made with non local ingredients like coconut milk and wheat noodles as influenced by Burmese and Chinese cuisines. Mahanakhon serves a "Khao Soi Nuer Toon" which means beef shank is the protein used as opposed to the more traditional chicken leg. I actually preferred it with beef when I was in Thailand and the sliced shank they use is firm but tender in that it’s easily broken apart with a fork or chopsticks. This bowl hits all the high notes of a good bowl of Khao Soi as it’s rich and creamy with a subtle but soothing spice profile along with that classic contrast of both crunchy and regular boiled noodles. An immediate contender for the best bowl of Khao Soi in Chicagoland right now. 

Khao Soi Nuer Toon at Mahanakhon Noodle Bar

On my most recent visit I was with company that wanted something comforting on a cold day so I knew just what to get. On each one of my previous visits I saw a hot pot like dish filled with all sorts of stewed beef meat at a few tables each time. Clearly the Mor Fai Nuer Toon was a popular menu item and the friendly waiter confirmed it to me when I asked about it on my previous visit. He insisted I try it next time and that time was now. It’s described on the menu as “house recipe herb beef broth served with sliced beef, stewed striped shank beefs, stewed tender beefs, beef balls, bean sprouts, scallion, Chinese celery, fried garlic and cilantro” and it comes with a jasmine rice. Well if that sounds good to you I can 100% confirm it is. I loved all the different cuts of beef, each with its own texture. The tendon was terrific if you like that sort of stuff while the stewed beef was as tender as it can get without disintegrating completely. The herby broth was filled with flavor including star anise, cilantro, soy sauce and beef fat. At $25 it’s meant to share but one could easily enjoy this with by themselves with leftovers to boot. Mahanakhon Noodle Bar is named after a mixed use skyscraper in Bangkok and it’s a fitting name for a place that’s further raising the bar on Thai food in Chicago. Sky’s the limit.

Mor Fai Nuer Toon

Mahanakhon Noodle Bar
2907 N Lincoln Ave
Chicago, IL 60657
(773) 975-3333
Website

Amici

-Grubbing in Chicago  
An Arancini Specialist in Lakeview 

The building at the corner of Broadway and Clarendon is what some in the restaurant world would call a cursed space. But I always thought the rotation of places was more a product of the renters than the spot itself. For ex. it was a bootleg Harold’s Chicken before the newest tenant moved in. 

Recently Opened in Lakeview 

Amici is Italian in origin in that the owner Alfio Sciacca moved to Chicago from Sicily at a young age. But as he’ll tell you - Amici isn’t an Italian restaurant. Amici means friends in Italian but here is short for A-frican, M-exican, I-ndian, C-aribbean, I-talian as Amici is a specialist type of spot and arancini is their specialty. Alfio stuffs mountain shaped balls of rice with African, Mexican, Indian, Caribbean, and Italian flavors. The current menu is a melting pot of rice balls including the “Masalacino” which has chicken tikka masala and the “Dorowattino” comes stuffed with Ethiopian berbere chicken. He also makes the "Birriacino" stuffed with beef birria and the "Jerkicino" which comes stuffed with jerk chicken plus a handful of other options. All rice balls are $8 and served fried to order with your choice of fresh cut fries or pasta salad plus a sauce unique to each arancini. I got the jerk chicken bc for as many foods as I’ve seen jerked in Chicago I hadn’t seen jerk arancini. You really notice the quality of the rice upon first bite. Inside of the rice you’ll find shredded chicken with a jerk forward flavor profile. You can up the flavor with a side of jerk sauce. So if you like the flavor of jerk chicken you’ll enjoy a jerk chicken arancini. The pasta salad is delicious with crisp bits of giardiniera mixed in. 

Jerk Chicken Arancini at Amici (click pics to enhance) 

I’ve enjoyed the jerk and the tikka for a change of pace but the classic arancini that Alfio makes is f’ing great. They’re made Sicilian style with meat sauce, mozzarella, peas. I’ve had a few of these over the last couple weeks and they always come out piping hot and really hit the spot. The fries are fresh cut and on the softer side with a nice potato flavor that’s enhanced with a bbq rub. It’s tough to find a good meal for under $10 these days which in of itself is a reason to visit. Meanwhile Alfio is a good reason to return. I brought Erica here and she wanted one without any meat but he doesn’t have any vegetarian options at the moment as they weren't selling. So she didn’t get anything but when my arancini arrived so did a plate of steaming hot pasta made just for her. Alfio quickly threw together a gratis plate of penne pasta mixed with a smooth tomato sauce, sautéed cabbage and peppers. I had a few bites and might’ve ordered my own plate if it was an option. It had me intrigued with the menus other offerings which include a jambalaya, Penne Bolognese and virtually all of the rice ball options sans rice. This place is great. Where else in the city can you choose between a plate of Doro Watt chicken or a fried rice ball stuffed with some? Amici is a unique opening in today’s restaurant landscape as it’s truly a one man operation and that man makes some awesome arancini. 

Arancini

Amici
3933 N Broadway
Chicago, IL 60613
(773) 904-8492
Website

Tuk Tuk Thai Isan Street Food

-Grubbing in Chicago  
Isan Cuisine in Lakeview

Chicago’s Thai food scene continues to grow with the opening of Thai restuarants pretty much always being a thing. Which ones do you try first (or ever) is also a thing you have to figure out. For me it simply comes down to the menu and maybe the presentation of it. What I mean when I say the menu plays a big part in whether or not I’m going to check a spot out is what do they have, if anything, that sets them apart from other Thai spots in town. So I’m looking for more than the usual suspects as far as Pad Thai or spring rolls and so forth. Just like with any other cuisine I’m always on the prowl for regional offerings too which is what got me into Tuk Tuk Thai Isan on Clark a few doors down from the old Century Mall. It's owned by the family who runs Green Tea Japanese Restaurant which is also on Clark up in Lincoln Park (across from Francis Parker school). They’re Thai and figured why not open a spot serving the food they typically make for themselves at home and family gatherings and the likes. The family has roots in Northeast Thailand which is the Isan region up near Laos.

Recently Opened in Lakeview 

The food of the region is famous for being very spicy and pungent and well seasoned with fresh herbs and fermented fish being abundant. This cuisine has more in common with that of Laos then the rest of Thailand, as the people of Isan have been more heavily influenced by the neighboring country's culture than a place like Bangkok. They even speak in a dialect closely related to Laos and thus food is also more like Lao cuisine than it is Thai in alot of ways. So it’s always nice to get an Isan option since there’s just one Lao restaurant in Chicago and it’s only a ghost kitchen at the moment. Tuk Tuk is planning on getting a liquor license but it’s byob for now so bring some beer and some friends bc the menu is the type that’s really good for sharing. Of course we had to start with a papaya salad and we chose the Isan style which comes pounded with green beans, tomatoes, garlic, lime dressing, fish sauce, thai chili with fermented anchovies and salted crabs. This had that funk one wants when they want a proper papaya salad. We also got an order of the fried meatballs (pork) aka Laab Moo Tod. My only complaint with them was some were really small and thus fried kind of hard. The larger meatballs were much juicier so maybe they could increase the size of them just a bit. A good start nonetheless. 

Appetizers at Tuk Tuk Thai Isan 

Moving along we also tried a couple of the entrees as appetizers since there was four of us. We got the green curry with shrimp and also the Rad Nar with shrimp and both were a hit. In the case of the curry I enjoyed the fresh chunks of Thai eggplant that had clearly been cooked to order and not left in the pot to sit and get soft. It wasn’t the best curry I’ve had in town but it was a good one. As far as the Rad Nar we all liked that too. First off the shrimp that it came with were some of the better textured shrimp that I’ve had in Chicago in a long time. It was served up with fresh Chinese broccoli that still had a lot of snap which is how I like it. The gravy was pretty spot on and the noodles were soft as expected with them being covered in sauce but overall this dish was also a hit with the group. 

Shrimp Rad Nar

Tuk Tuk presents a few signature dishes and they all seemed worth ordering but we had to do a whole fried fish just because in my opinion nobody fries up a whole piece of fish better than the good people of Thailand. Almost all of the best versions of whole fried fish that I’ve had came on a trip to Thailand and I’ve had a few good ones at Thai spots in the States too so with this being a favorite dish of mine I decided we would try that and was happy that we did. They serve their deep fried snapper topped with a Thai-style three flavor sauce - spicy, sweet & sour. I detected some tomatoes, green onion and cilantro plus dried chiles on top of the sauce. My only real complaint was that we didn’t get a second fish as this is going to feed one or maybe two people as a meal in of itself but we also ordered a few rounds of sticky rice and it came with some regular steamed rice as well so we all felt like we ate just enough after we tried the housemade coconut ice cream served up with peanuts, fresh chunks of coconut and evaporated milk. I love any and all Asian desserts but I have a special bond with Thai style coconut ice cream going back to a visit to a popular Bangkok Market where I ate more than a few scoops on what was a hot ass day. With the weather heating up and Northeastern Thai food being the perfect match for a warm summer day I recommend Tuk Tuk to those in the Lakeview and Lincoln Park area looking for the exciting and delicious flavors of Isan style Thai.

Whole Fried Fish (Pla Rad Plik)

Tuk Tuk Thai Isan Street Food
2852 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60657
(773) 661-9739
Website

Itoko

-Grubbing in Chicago  
New to the 'Scene'

Boka Restaurant Group has planted their flag on the Southeast corner of Southport and Henderson in Lakeview. Born in 2002 Boka has already cemented itself among the major players in Chicago's hospitality industry and their newest project is a special three in one offering. In taking over the old Southport Lanes Bowling Alley they opened three different spots anchored by Stephanie Izard's Little Goat Diner. GG's Chicken Shop and Itoko are also operating out of the same building. I had thought about visiting all of them in one swoop but it was Itoko that I was the most intrigued with.  

Recently Opened in Lakeview 

One of the main reasons I found Itoko to be more intriguing than the other spots was that they tapped Chef Gene Kato to run the show. That and I love Japanese food. Kato also runs Momotaro and was the guy behind the now closed Sumi Robata Bar which I enjoyed when it was around. Itoko means cousin and it's meant to be that to the more glamorous Momotaro. Itoko aims to be more of a neighborhood place with a menu that includes a variety of sushi styles, robata (grilled skewers) and donburi among other things. One of the more popular menu items early on has been the "TCD Tuna Toro" which is one of two Chirashi Don on offer (sashimi on sushi rice). It's not cheap ($35) but I did find it to be a hit. It consisted of kaluga caviar, pickled onion, sushi rice, nori and fatty tuna belly. 

TCD Tuna Toro

The Sushi is broken down into six menu sections which include Nigiri / Sashimi, Nigirizushi, Makimono Classic Rolls, Tamaki Hand Rolls, Specialty Maki Rolls, and the Chefs Selection of Sashimi. The Yama from the Specialty Maki Rolls portion was one I kept seeing mentioned in reviews which were convincing enough but it was just ok. A description of "crispy shrimp, snow crab, cucumber, sweet soy" sounded great but was decent at best and I wouldn't get it again. I probably would've liked it more when I was younger so I can see why it's a popular plate with a customer base that's going to lean on the younger side in this part of town. Temaki Sushi is often called a “hand roll” because it's made with a rolled cone of seaweed wrapped around rice and fillings. I feel like these are another menu item geared towards a younger clientele so I skipped them and got a few pieces of Nigirizushi which translates to "gripped sushi" as it describes seasoned sushi rice molded by hand. The Hokkaido Hotate with scallop, uni, and ikura was a delightful bite. 

Sushi at Itoko 

I also had to check out a couple of the non sushi offerings starting with a pork and foie gras gyoza. I remembered there being some good gyoza back at Sumi Robata Bar and it was cooked with a crispy skirt or a lattice like crust which is how I like them. I wasn't sure how the flavor of foie gras would work mixed with pork but I really liked these in big part because the foie gras was announcing itself to where you knew it was in there. They tasted like pate dumplings so of course they're going to be delicious. The Beef Chahan (wagyu beef, kaiware, maitake, soft poached egg) was equally delightful and came with a table-side presentation as it's delivered sizzling and mixed up by your waiter upon arrival (have your camera phones ready, influencers). It had a really nice crispness to it. At first we weren't going to do dessert but when I saw kakigori I ordered that immediately. If you don’t already know kakigori (Japanese shaved ice) is my favorite dessert of them all so I was excited to get some but that excitement ended upon the arrival of what was basically a bowl of rolled ice cream. At first I was pissed (in a playful way) but it was pretty good nonetheless. I didn't get a pic of the separate dessert menu so I forget exactly what was in this but it was basically meant to mimic a dreamsicle with orange and cream flavors included. All in all Itoko is a very nice match for the neighborhood. 

Pork / Foie Gras Gyoza

Beef Chahan Fried Rice

"Kakigori"

Itoko 
3325 N Southport Ave
Chicago, IL 60657
(773) 819-7672
Website

Recanto Brazilian Grill

-Grubbing in Chicago
Brazilian Comfort Food in Lakeview

I've never been to Brazil but it's near the top of the 'to visit list.' The cuisine of Brazil is influenced by a wide variety of cultures and like most large countries the food can be very regional. Chicago has a small Brazilian population compared to a place like South Florida but there's actually a handful of Brazilian restaurants the newest of which is Recanto Brazilian Grill on Belmont in Lakeview. 

Newly Opened in Lakeview

The menu at Recanto features lots of traditional Brazilian favorites such as feijoada and pichana steak as well as frango a parmegiana. Each one of those Brazilian classics is influenced by different groups of immigrants. Another popular dish in Brazil that has it's origins elsewhere is stroganoff. Originally a Russian dish it's also popular in France and Brazil where Russians and French people emigrated in the 1920's following the revolution. Though over time Brazil has made the dish it's own. These days stroganoff in Brazil is typically served next to rice with shoestring potatoes on top. My mom used to make a great beef stroganoff with the scraps of the holiday beef tenderloin so it's one of those dishes I consider comfort food. I tried the beef stroganoff from Recanto this past winter and it really hit the spot. Small chunks of steak stir fried and mixed into in a rich mushroom gravy with the aforementioned shoestring potatoes lending some much needed crunch. Very comforting stuff. 

Brazilian Stroganoff 

Recanto Brazilian Grill 

928 W Belmont Ave
Chicago, IL 60657
(773) 661-9485
Website

Sochi Saigonese Kitchen

-Grubbing in Chicago  
New to the 'Scene'

Chicago has a decent Vietnamese food scene in that it's better than many but not on the same level as others. While Chinese and Thai restaurants are opening all the time around town you don't see as many Vietnamese spots joining the hustle. That seems to slowly be changing. The opening of Sochi Saigonese Kitchen is the latest example. It's not on Argyle or as far as north as most of the city's better Vietnamese options. It's actually in Lakeview of all places which could be another sign that Vietnamese food is close to going mainstream here in the Midwest like it already has out West. 

Recently Opened in Lakeview

Sochi is the project of a local couple and it's their first go at owning a restaurant. They're from Ho Chi Minh City originally so as far as the pho goes you can expect the Southern Vietnamese style. I suggest starting with an order of their unique around town egg rolls which are fried with a special rice paper they get from Vietnam. They're stuffed with pork and shrimp as well as rice noodles and herbs. These are popular throughout Vietnam but you don't see them too often in the States. 

Egg Rolls at Sochi Saigonese Kitchen 

The menu reflects the feel of the nice and sunny space. It's got an updated feel and has lots of elements you expect to find at a spot somewhere on Randolph, open air kitchen, loud music, younger crowd. I'd bet the Slap Ya Mama Crab Fried Rice is a popular dish with the groups out to eat. It comes with jumbo lump crab meat and also some butter grilled shrimp and was enjoyed by my wife. 

Crab Fried Rice 

I had to go with the pho since this was my first visit. As mentioned they do a Southern Vietnamese style recipe with flat and wider noodles and both short rib and skirt steak. First off I cant stress enough how important it is that pho come served piping hot and I was glad to see Sochi pass that test. They describe the broth as bone marrow broth and it had some nice deep beef flavor. A big plate of stuff comes on the side so you can customize the flavors of your beef noodle soup. I read that hoisin is a popular pho condiment in Southern Vietnam and I enjoyed the addition of it in this. Another thing I appreciated was the freshness of all the herbs served on the side. As far as our meal goes it was quite enjoyable and better than most other options in the area. The menu's limited right now so in time you might find a few more regional options. They serve a skirt steak banh mi during the daytime but I haven't been able to make it over for that. Sochi hits the spot if looking for Vietnamese in Lakeview. 

Pho at Sochi Saigonese Kitchen 

Sochi Saigonese Kitchen

1358 W Belmont Ave
Chicago, IL 60657
(773) 904-8511
Website

Taylor Ham / Pork Roll in Chicago

-Grubbing in Chicago(land)
Where to find the Jersey Specialty  

The history of Pork Roll or Taylor Ham is unclear. Most food origin stories are just that. Hard to figure out exactly by who or where it was first created. What's very clear is that people from New Jersey love it. The popular breakfast meat is a regional specialty prized by those who come from the Garden State. So the story goes it's history can be traced to the Revolutionary War at the Battle of Trenton. When the Continental Army needed food that could withstand travel so they carried rolls of salted, cured ham around to each battle. There's nothing that proves this to be true. The story that a man named John Taylor created pork roll in Trenton, New Jersey in 1856 does have historical evidence. He originally sold his pork roll product under the name Taylor Ham, which is what people in North Jersey still call it today despite Taylor being forced to change the product’s name when the Pure Food and Drug Act passed in 1906 and his product no longer met the new legal definition of ham. In order to meet the new legal regulations, Taylor Ham was rechristened as pork roll, but in North Jersey the old name stuck. These days everyone in New Jersey has a favorite spot for a Taylor Ham / Pork Roll Sandwich. You can sometimes even find it in other parts of the country like here in Chicagoland.

_______________________________________________

Latin Fuego (Lakeview)

You'll find our first stop located just off the CTA brown line station on Wellington. This space has housed a handful of places over the years and the latest is an arepa shop called Latin Fuego. The owner moved to Chicago from New Jersey and he's doing arepas with Mozzarepas which are arepas made with mozzarella cheese. Just like Taylor Ham these Mozzarepas are popular in New Jersey and Latin Fuego offers them together as one. They put a couple pieces of sliced Taylor ham along with some scrambled eggs and American cheese in between a Mozzarepa and it makes for a real kick ass breakfast sandwich. They also offer a Taylor Ham , Egg and Cheese served on a roll. 

Pork Roll Arepa at Latin Fuego 
_______________________________________________

The Daly Bagel (Oak Park)

This bagel shop housed in an old Oak Park dry cleaners just celebrated it's one year anniversary. The Daly Bagel has been welcomed by it's neighbors with open arms. It seems to be a place that people in the neighborhood have really embraced and from what I've read DB has done the same in the form of helping build community bonds and such. The Daly Bagel makes bagels fresh every day and offers them as is or dressed as breakfast sandwiches such as the early riser which consists of a bagel of your choosing with scrambled egg and the option to add both cheese and Taylor Ham aka Pork Roll. 

Pork Roll, Egg, and Cheese on a Sesame Bagel

_______________________________________________

Where to buy loaves of Taylor Ham / Pork Roll 

Out in Jersey you can buy Taylor Ham at pretty much any deli or place that sells deli meats. You can get it whole or even by the slice / pound. Many folks in New Jersey enjoy their pork rolls on a Kaiser bun and just like any breakfast sandwich they're pretty easy to make at home. So for anyone looking for a place where they can purchase a roll of Taylor Ham you can find it at Fresh Market Place on Western located on the border of Logan Square / Bucktown. They also offer the previously mentioned Kaiser rolls as well as eggs, and sliced cheese at their deli counter. It's a pretty good little grocery store that has a few items sourced regionally and the Taylor Ham Pork Roll is one that stands out. 

Taylor Pork Roll at Fresh Market Place (2134 N. Western)

_______________________________________________

See ya next time @chibbqking

Pockets

 -Grubbing in Chicago
"Healthy" Eating in Lakeview

So I have this thing I say when discussing Chicago restaurants and how many I think I've tried, the answer to which is I don't know. Tons but there's just as many spots that I haven't tried as those I have. But while I haven't been to them all I pretty much know of them all to the point where when a new restaurant does open I notice it's new immediately. So by getting around the city and browsing through sites like google and yelp I've documented pretty much every restaurant in town in my head over time. One such spot that I documented years ago is Pockets over on the corner of Lincoln, Wellington, and Southport in Lakeview. I've passed by this place a countless number of times in my lifetime going back to my childhood years when the logo would catch my eye. But I'd never tried it, or even thought of stopping in. The only thing that was a bigger mystery to me was the Church of Scientology located next door on Lincoln. So one day recently I said f-ck it and decided to try it out. 

Locals Favorite in Lakeview / Lincoln Park 

According to their website Pockets was born in Chicago in 1989. The Pockets franchise was founded by a guy who was inspired by a spot at the University of Michigan that served chipatis, a whole-wheat pita. The logo of Chip the Kangaroo was created by the guys landlord for $25 or so the story goes. I could see how the menu here would be popular in the early 90's as it has a very retro feel. The house named pockets is multi-grain bread that's baked on site and split open and stuffed with different salad concoctions that come with dressing on the side. They do custom pockets too. I tried the Asian Chicken Pocket which is pretty much a take on the Chinese Chicken Salad minus the citrus. I could tell the chicken was the frozen pre cooked stuff from Restaurant Depot or whatever but for those in the neighborhood that like salad this place can serve a purpose I suppose. I still ate the whole thing. 

Asian Chicken Pocket at Pockets

I was tempted by the smell of calzones being baked fresh on-site as well. I said why the hell not and got myself a traditional calzone too. These are made with the same pocket dough except they're stuffed with ingredients and folded over before being baked. I chose Italian Sausage and peppers and which was paired with mozzarella cheese and marinara sauce. I was pleasantly surprised by this one. Despite the wheat baked bun this was junk food but I could see it being a guilty pleasure for some. The Italian sausage was fennel heavy and the sauce wasn't too sweet. The cheese was extremely well melted and the whole thing just worked as far as a quick carb bomb goes. They also do baked potatoes loaded with the same ingredients from their salad and calzone offerings. It's a retro spot and maybe it'll even come back into style. Hey it survived the Atkins diet phase so maybe Pockets lives long enough to make true on the belief everything that goes out of style eventually comes back in. 

Italian Sausage Calzone at Pockets

Pockets

3001 N Lincoln Ave
Chicago, IL 60657
(773) 528-2167
Website