Istmo Oaxacan Cuisine

-Grubbing in Chicago  
Oaxacan Food in Lakeview

Chicago’s biggest food strength outside of its homegrown cuisine is its Mexican food scene - it’s arguably the best in the country east of LA. This is driven by the fact we have a perfect mix of both mom and pop taqueria types and also a large group of classically trained chefs cooking up cutting edge Mexican cuisine. But even still there’s room for growth and a newish Mexican restaurant in Lakeview is focusing in on Oaxacan cuisine, which has always been somewhat lacking in Chicago (the majority of Chicago's Mexican population hail from three states - Jalisco, Michoacán, Guerrero).

Recently Opened in Lakeview

Istmo opened on Clark just north of Belmont last summer. It’s the product of Chef Carlos López Muñoz who hails from Oaxaca. Istmo de Tehuantepec is the largest region in the state of Oaxaca and according to a story I read over at Eater Muñoz became interested in Mexican gastronomy while living in Finland, where real deal Mexican food is basically non existent. The Chicago chapter of his life story starts out at the Michelin-starred Mexique where he staged for Chef Carlos Gaytán after returning from Mexico upon completing his culinary studies down there. He also worked with Rick Bayless. Say what you will about Skip’s brother but him and his restaurant(s) have pushed Chicago's Mexican food scene forward with all the chefs that have come and gone thru his kitchen(s). Many of whom have gone on to open their own spots. Istmo is the latest and one of the more interesting due to a couple things 1) it’s very regional choosing to hone in on the flavors of Oaxaca and 2) it chose to roll with breakfast and lunch upon first opening, though they recently introduced a dinner menu.

a peek inside

The inside of Istmo feels like a spot you might come across in a hip and happening Oaxaca City neighborhood. It’s modern and bright and a very nice place to meet up with friends and or family. Visit on the weekend and you’ll feel a very uplifting energy upon entering. Locals have very much shown up for the modern takes on Oaxacan breakfast classics like the Enfrijoladas ($19). This dish traces its origins back to pre-Columbian times in Oaxaca and is one of the most popular versions of enchiladas in all of Mexico. Silky black bean sauce is poured over handmade corn tortillas topped with queso and crema and served aside plantains and a fried egg. You can add grilled steak, chicken tinga or green chorizo made locally by Santa Masa Tamaleria though it’s a pretty perfect plate of breakfast as is.

Enfrijoladas at Istmo

On another visit I tried the Huevos Divorciados ($18) which translates to “divorced eggs” which is a humorous name for this Mexican breakfast favorite featuring two eggs sitting in two different salsas, and they're not on speaking terms. The version at Istmo is made with a green tomatillo salsa and a red roasted tomato salsa split directly down the middle with a fried egg on each side plus a few slices of avocado, also split down the middle. It comes with fried made in house tortillas which have that distinct corn flavor plus creamy Oaxacan black beans and again it’s an exciting plate of breakfast and a meat free one at that. If you’re really hungry I suggest adding a side of their extra flavorful Papas Bravas breakfast potatoes ($7) which come doused in a spicy and smoky Guajillo and Chipotle aioli.

Papas Bravas

Huevos Divorciados at Istmo

If you want some red meat in the morning I suggest trying the Garnachas Istmeñas ($13) which was the most intriguing menu item to me as I’m always on the prowl for dishes you won’t find elsewhere and these tasty treats are a regional specialty of the previously mentioned Isthmus region of Oaxaca. Little boats of heirloom corn are patted out and cooked before being filled with red adobo marinated steak and topped with queso istmeño (a dried age cheese). They come with a cup of pickled vegetables on the side and are served two to an order so they make for a good appetizer option. I do find the prices at Istmo a bit off putting as nobody really wants to pay $25 for a meatless breakfast these days but that seems to be the norm. That said Mexican breakfast is underrated and the prices here are no different than other popular brunch places though the food feels much more personal. 

Garnachas Istmeñas at Istmo

Istmo Oaxacan Cuisine
3231 N Clark St
Chicago, IL 60657
(872) 315-2034
Website