Garuda

-Grubbing in Chicago
Indonesian Food in Uptown

Chicago landed a full-fledged Indonesian restaurant when Garuda opened on Argyle in June. The restaurant is named after a mythological figure in Southeast Asia that's part giant eagle, part human, and represents strength, freedom, protection, and divine power. Indonesian food has always been difficult to find in Chicago compared to other Southeast Asian cuisines. So with its grand opening Garuda adds another dimension to the city's Southeast Asian dining scene and the Argyle corridor. 

Recently Opened in Uptown

Garuda isn’t the first place serving food from Indonesia but it has the broadest selection of Indonesian dishes in Chicago to date. It’s a neighborhood operation but word seems to have spread beyond the neighborhood with some people mentioning they came from other states in online reviews. There's even a picture on the wall of a former president of Indonesia standing in front of the restaurant with staff and no it's not AI. The dining room is minimal in design and there’s limited seating so you may need to share a table when it's busy. Garuda is ran by a local Indonesian family that also owns a sushi spot so it’s a bit of a dream project as far as being able to serve the food they eat at home. The menu isn't massive but it's filled with specific Indonesian dishes, some of which are regional. Chicken sate is one of the more well known Indonesian foods but there’s different levels to it and the version served at Garuda is a saucy style. Chunks of chicken are skewered and covered in a flavorful peanut sauce. These were grilled ahead of ordering so the texture suffered a bit but the flavor was on point. 

Chicken Sate at Garuda

The most interesting section of the menu might be the sambals, which can be added to any order for $2 each. There are six to choose from, and I've tried three so far. Each packed plenty of heat and was deeply satisfying. One of the best ways to sample these is with an order of bakwan sayur, Indonesian vegetable fritters. They're made in the traditional style with shredded vegetables mixed into a light batter and fried until crisp. I particularly liked the sambal ijo, a green chili sauce associated with West Sumatra that's fresh, spicy, and aromatic. Similar to Nam Prik Noom, a Northern Thai chili sauce.

Bakwan Sayur at Garuda

Nasi Rames is a Javanese dish with a central scoop of steamed white rice surrounded by smaller portions of various dishes on the same plate. It makes for a great introduction to Indonesian cuisine. You start by choosing a main, and for me, the choice is easy when beef rendang is an option. Originating with the Minangkabau people of West Sumatra, rendang isn't a curry but a rich, dry-braised beef dish. The meat is simmered in spiced coconut milk until the liquid evaporates and the beef fries in its own rendered fat. You round out the plate with a variety of sides, almost like a Southeast Asian mezze. Pictured below are rendang, stir-fried green beans, peanuts and anchovies, shrimp crackers, a hard-boiled egg, and sambal. Together, they offer a mix of sweet, savory, spicy, and crunchy elements that make nasi rames such a satisfying way to explore Indonesian food.

Nasi Rames with Beef Rendang

Garuda
1046 1/2 W Argyle St
Chicago, IL 60640
(773) 564-9100
Website

Joong Boo Market

-Grubbing in Chicago
Bargain Bites ft. Korean Comfort Food in Avondale

It’s late September and the temp is dipping below 60° which brings hoodies and soups back into the picture. Today we’re going to check out one of my go-to spots this time of the year and pay a visit to Joong Boo Market in Avondale. The original location opened at 3333 N. Kimball Ave. in 1992 and it’s become an institution with a second location that opened in Glenview in 2018. Joong Boo Market is a gateway into Chicago’s food culture. It’s the kind of place people discover when they start venturing beyond the obvious and exploring the city one cuisine at a time. Although it’s technically a grocery store it functions as more than that with two different dining options both worthy of a visit, even on their own.

Locals Favorite in Avondale

First up is Joong Boo Wang Mandoo or “the dumpling stand” as most people call it. It sits outside in front of the store and is no more than a walk-up window selling large Korean steamed dumplings (buns) that make for the perfect snack. I’m partial to the Kimchi Mandoo which is a baseball sized pillowy bao bun wrapped around a savory filling of ground pork, kimchi, and veggies. The kimchi brings a spicy bite that cuts through the pork, while the thick steamed wrapper gives it that satisfying soft and chewy texture. You can make a nice snack out of one of these or a meal by eating two of them at just $5 a piece. I can’t think of many things out there with more flavor at that price-point. 

Snack Corner Cafe (inside Joong Boo Market)

Inside Joong Boo sits Snack Corner, a small counter service Korean restaurant hidden within the grocery store. The menu is a fairly long list of Korean classics served at very favorable prices. Last year when I was there around this time I tried the #16 - Yukgaejang - which is a Korean spicy beef soup. It has a deep red, chile seasoned broth loaded with shredded beef, scallions, fernbrake (gosari), bean sprouts, and other vegetables. It’s hearty, spicy, savory, and slightly smoky and very peppery rather than being a delicate soup. The broth is pretty one dimensional but it’s a nice and spicy dimension and I like the shredded beef giving it a bit of a Korean birria profile. The soup itself is a very nice sized portion and it comes with a side of rice and three types of banchan for just $11 as of the time this was posted. Spots like Snack Corner are only getting better as prices continue to rise. 

#16 - Yukgaejang - at Snack Corner inside Joong Boo Market

Joong Boo Market
3333 N Kimball Ave
Chicago, IL 60618
(773) 478-5566
Website

Mazor

-Grubbing in Chicago
Masa Specialties in West Town

I always get backed up with posts this time of the year as summer is really busy as far as going out and about. After a bit of a slow start we’ve had a nice run of really nice openings too. Today’s post will highlight yet another one of them. A place that has yet to really take off but should do so very soon.

Recently Opened in West Town

Mazor opened in June on Milwaukee Avenue near the border of West Town and Fulton. It’s helmed by Chef Cristian Orozco, who previously worked at Chicago restaurants like Acadia and Tzuco. Orozco grew up in Guatemala and his food has both Mexican and Guatemalan influences - the food at Mazor is described as MesoAmerican. It’s a casual spot focusing in on fresh, nixtamalized corn masa and the menu is a breath of fresh air compared to your typical Mexican restaurant. For starters the tostada de atun was one of the most refreshing bites of the summer. A crisp fried corn tortilla is topped with bluefin tuna, avocado and salsa macha and it’s only $9. I could eat a few of these and call it a meal. 

Tostada de Atun

Tacos have become way too generic for my liking. Too many spots are doing the same uninspired stuff - steak, chicken, marinated pork that’s never seen a spit but they still call it al pastor and so forth. Then many of them use the same tortillas and top them the same way with standard onion and cilantro. The tortilla is a blank canvas and more spots should be trying to stand out with their tacos rather than fit in. The tacos here aren’t anything that hasn’t been done before but they’re clearly made with care and not just meant to be a menu filler. First off they’re all served on handmade corn tortillas and they come dressed differently depending on which ones you order. The winner for me was the ribeye taco - thinly sliced ribeye meat with a kiss of smoke goes on a corn tortilla with a cheese crust and is joined by potent grilled onions and crispy potato strings that add a really nice crunch while salsa macha makes it nutty and spicy. Again I could make a complete meal out of a few of these. 

Ribeye Taco at Mazor

I’ll always browse the menu of new to me restaurants looking for things that stand out and the tetelas caught my eye at Mazor. Little triangular pockets of corn masa are filled with chorizo and cheese and served with beans, crema, queso, and an avocado mousse. Just like the previous dishes this is driven by the use of nixtamalized corn which gives off that wonderful aroma that sticks to your fingers when you touch it. This is a signature dish of sorts for Chef Orozco and I think in time it will be the signature dish at Mazor too as the taste of the fresh masa really stands out in this dish. I look forward to seeing where this place goes from here. They’re currently offering a tasting menu for around $50 and based on the regular menu it seems like it would be well worth the entry fee. I'm already planning to go back.

Tetelas

Mazor Chicago

485 N Milwaukee Ave

Chicago, IL 60654

(312) 238-9792

Website

Summertime Finds

-Grubbing in Chicago
Five of a Kind: Summer Bounty

Summer never fails to fly by as far as the timing goes. Where did it go?! Mornings are already starting to feel like fall while the days are getting shorter and college football returns this weekend. I think the main determining factor to most of when summer ends is students going back to school and just about all of them are back in class at this point. But technically summer doesn’t end until August 31st or September 22nd depending on whether you go by the meteorological end or the astronomical end. So you still have some time to indulge in these delicious summer dishes that I recently enjoyed.

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Bungalow by Middle Brow (Logan Square)

Bungalow by Middle Brow is one of my favorite spots to eat during the summer months. The pizza is outstanding year round but the rest of the menu really shines over the summer when they take full advantage of the bounty that comes with it. They have a rotating menu item called a ‘pizza sandwich’ which is the kitchen leaning into what it does best: taking their outstanding fermented pizza dough and treating it like sandwich bread. The current iteration is a BLT and it’s really, really good. Bacon is paired with locally grown lettuce and tomato plus togarashi mayo in their signature sourdough pizza crust. Typically the tomato is the most important element of a BLT but the fermented pizza bread is what makes this sandwich so special. It’s airy and crisp and golden on the outside, with a chewy interior and slight tang from the long fermentation. Another candidate for 'Sandwich of the Year'.

BLT Pizza Sandwich at Bungalow by Middle Brow
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Inspired Indian (Evanston)

Speaking of summertime sandwiches - I really liked my pre-beach visit to the Inspired Indian in Evanston. What an interesting little sandwich shop located in the old Al’s Deli space on Noyes street just steps away from the train station. It’s ran by a business lady who originally started the company as a subscription-box business selling pre-measured Indian spice kits before opening the Evanston storefront back in 2021. Last year she introduced a tight menu of vegetarian sandwiches using popular Indian flavor combinations as the baseline. I tried the 'Bombay Sandwich' which is the most popular style of sandwich in Mumbai. It typically consists of cumin-turmeric mashed potato, pickled red onion, tomato, cucumber, green pepper, and beets. At Inspired Indian it also comes with chaat masala, a cilantro and mint mayo, Kashmiri chili aioli and a house blend of shredded white cheddar and Muenster cheese. All of the sandwiches come with masala potato chips and an Indian spiced cabbage slaw, and are served on toasted sourdough panini bread. You can still buy the spice kits here too and although there’s no indoor seating there’s a very nice public space with tables and chairs across the street where people can eat. I wandered over there and thoroughly enjoyed my sandwich while soaking up some sun. It tasted really fresh and was clearly made with care. I’ll be back.

Bombay Sandwich at Inspired Indian
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La Cosecha at Green City Market (Lincoln Park)

There’s no doubt that Green City Market in Lincoln Park is the best farmers market in the city as far as produce goes but I always thought it left a little to be desired in the prepared foods department. Well I visited this past weekend and noticed a new to me stand selling tortillas and stopped to take a look at what La Cosecha Tortilla Company was about. When I saw they were based out of Madison I realized I’d heard of them before though this was the first time I’ve seen them or their product in Chicago. They had a smoked trout tostada on special and it was one of the best things I’ve ate this summer. An organic non-GMO tortilla made with Midwest corn was fried until crisp and topped with Sungold tomatoes, cucumbers, pickled cabbage, dill-Canzonetta cheese spread, and basil. I didn’t realize it until after I had left but every topping was acquired right there at the market making for a very high quality snack. I talked to the people behind La Cosecha and they told me they’re in the process of moving to Delavan (WI) and they hope to have their tortillas available on the Illinois side of the border soon. I suggested they reach out to Agora Market so be on the lookout for them. 

Smoked Trout Tostada at Green City Market
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Andros Taverna at the Farmers Market (Logan Square)

At a time when pretty much everything is getting worse, props to the folks behind the Logan Square Farmers Market which has actually gotten better with its new setup. Not only is it better situated as far as the new layout goes but the vendors are getting better too, particularly those selling prepared food. It’s been about a month since the folks behind Andros Taverna set up a stand ran by my guy Luis who I met the first week. They’re grilling up chicken and pork skewers over live charcoal and serving them in Andros’ signature woodfired pita. Chicago isn’t a big souvlaki town but we really got a good one with these which are the best I’ve had outside of Greece and better than a few in Greece too. The pork is nice and smoky with just the right bite and it pairs perfectly with their delicious dill tzatziki plus lettuce, red onion, and a slither of harissa for some nice spice. The pita in of itself is incredible to where you can put almost anything in there and it would be good but the current combo of flavors would be tough to top. I think I’ve been by for one of these three of the four times they've been there. Important to note these are not available at the restaurant, only Sundays at the farmers market. They also have nice looking Turkish bagels with spreads and some interesting pastries too. 

Pork Souvlaki at Logan Square Farmers Market
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Trecena (Dunning)

Last but not least I recently attended a Trecena dinner which is a tasting menu ran out of Santa Masa Tamaleria. Santa Masa is owned by Chef Danny Espinoza and his wife Johana who are also behind Trecena, the five course tasting menu exploring Chicano food inspired by memory, technique, and the evolving conversation around Mexican cuisine. They do these dinners a few times a month and I was fortunate to be invited to one by Danny and his lovely wife. It's truly all in the family here as Danny’s father in-law and another family member lend a helping hand. It’s a small and intimate meal and each dish comes with a description and a story. We started with a wonderful shrimp aguachile that was extra refreshing on a hot summer night. Next out was a play on barbacoa spiced shawarma served on a warm pita dipped in beef fat. I didn’t get a chance to write down every last detail but this was definitely my type of dish. Same can be said for a plate of cheffed up chicken flautas which were hot and crisp and sat on a tasty pile of black beans alongside some sort of sour cream mousse. The fried flutes were topped with cabbage for crunch and some cheese added saltiness. Fourth dish out was a plate of grilled tri-tip with a lip licking sauce that had peppers and other Mexican forward flavors. The sliced meat was served with a crispy rice taco which was arroz wrapped in a grilled cheese crust. Danny’s wife Jhoana is also a chef and she specializes in pastries and desserts and she absolutely crushed the final course. Listening to her description it sounded like she just kind of put together this bowl of chopped strawberries with a bunch of other stuff that was warm and cold plus crisp and soft. A strawberry smorgasbord of sorts. I had a great time at this leisurely dinner that runs around $90 for five ever changing courses and it’s byob which helps keep the costs down - highly recommended. 

Dinner at Trecena
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See ya next time @chibbqking

All Well

-Grubbing in Chicago
Michelin Star Bar Food in the West Loop

Earlier this month I lamented on a lack of interesting openings but I may have spoke too soon. That’s because today we’re checking out All Well - one of the more interesting restaurant openings of 2026, particularly because it comes from the team behind two starred Oriole though it goes in a much more casual direction. All Well opened in April at 111 N. Carpenter, in the old La Sardine space. It's a collabo between Noah Sandoval, the chef/owner of two-Michelin-starred Oriole, and Larry Feldmeier, who spent three years as Oriole's chef de cuisine. The idea is basically Michelin level cooking applied to the neighborhood restaurant / bar format. Actually the setup brings us two restaurants under one roof as there’s also a five course contemporary American tasting menu on offer. The tasting menu is $145 so about half of what it costs to dine at Oriole. But it’s the bar menu that I find most interesting. 

Recently Opened in the West Loop

The best description I can give the menu at All Well is it takes the techniques and seriousness of fine dining but applies them to foods you crave. We started with a complimentary bowl of Togarashi cucumbers which was a simple and refreshing bite that immediately lets you know there’s going to be more going on here than meets the eye. First ordered dish out for us was a Hiramasa Crudo plate with cantaloupe, saffron, and finger lime. The yellowtail like fish was fresh and fatty and worked really well sitting in a pool of sweet melon juice with aromatic saffron and sharp almost caviar like bursts of finger lime. Next out was a plate of the squash blossom quesadillas which comes two to an order. Here’s another example of the kitchen taking something familiar and giving it a bit of the fine-dining treatment. The quesadillas were cheesy and pungent with the squash blossoms playing more of a supporting role, as it was the accompanying salsa de calabacita that took these to the next level. 

Hiramusa Crudo at All Well


Squash Blossom Quesadillas

The Lake Perch was a must order for me as you don’t see it on many menus in Chicago. I thought this was the clearest example of the kitchens philosophy with perfectly crisp and crunchy filets that remained flaky and buttery, served with a flavorful tartar sauce and caperberries to help cut through the richness. It’s essentially a fish fry elevated without losing any of the reason you wanted fried fish in the first place. Maybe the best lake perch I’ve ever ate. It was so good we ordered seconds. I thought the pasta was the weakest link of the meal but still really good. It looks like it changes regularly with mafaldine mixed with spring allium, tomato, and parmesan being the preparation on our visit. I don’t have any complaints about this dish it just wasn’t as satisfying as the rest of the offerings. But it was just as well prepared with the pasta itself having a nice bite while the sweetness of the spring alliums and acidity of the tomatoes kept the pasta feeling bright and somewhat light. 

Fried Lake Perch at All Well


Mafaldine 

There are no burgers on the menu but the short rib sandwich is a really pleasant surprise. I'll be honest I've come to associate short rib with wedding food and I think of it as a bit of a dinosaur dish but it's underutilized in sandwich form. Thick and tender chunks of short rib go into a sesame seeded roll slathered with a nice swipe of horseradish aioli. Pickles and tomato provide the acidity to cut through all the richness of the beef. It's messy, meaty and incredibly satisfying. I have no doubts they could make a good burger here but the short rib sandwich is a much better menu item. Burgers are a dime a dozen these days, especially around the West Loop, while a sandwich like this is non existent elsewhere. I’d be surprised if this doesn’t end up being the most popular item on the menu. Overall I thought the food at All Well was exactly what I want when I think of “elevated bar food”. None of it was too serious but it felt like every element of each and every dish was given some serious thought. 

Short Rib Sandwich at All Well

All Well

111 N Carpenter St
Chicago, IL 60607
(312) 854-0122
Website

Sonora Dogz

-Grubbing in Chicagoland
Bargain Bites ft. Sonoran Hot Dogs in Maywood

When it comes to regional hot dogs the Chicago style is tough to top. I may be a bit of a Homer but I do believe that. That said the Chicago dog is one of many regional styles and it’s not the only one that shines. There’s a couple of others just as popular in their parts. One is the Coney Dog in Detroit and the other is the Sonoran Dog in Tucson - the latter of which can now be found in Maywood at Sonora Dogz, a food truck owner Willy Arenas and his wife opened in June. The truck parks most weekends at a gas station in Maywood but also makes appearances at festivals and other events around town. 

Recently opened in Maywood

Willy is from the Chicagoland area but his family traces back to Sonora Mexico where the Sonoran Hot Dog was born. It’s said to have originated in Hermosillo during the 1980s where it began as a late night street food served from custom carts called dogueras. Street vendors adapted the classic American hot dog to local Mexican tastes and somewhere along the line the current iteration of the Sonoran hot dog was born. It crossed the border in the 90’s and is now considered as much a part of Tucson and Arizona as it is Hermosillo and Sonora. Just like the Chicago dog, an authentic Sonoran dog is heavily layered and defined by specific components. First and foremost is the bun or a bolillo roll. It’s split open on top rather than cut completely in half, this helps hold a heavy layer of toppings. The bun is griddled to warm it up and soften it inside. Many spots in Tucson get their buns from Sonora - it’s the most crucial component of the Sonoran Dog. Willy and his wife bake their own buns. 

Menu at Sonora Dogz (click pics to enhance)

The hot dogs at Sonora Dogz are all beef franks tightly wrapped in bacon and griddled until crispy. The first topping to go on is usually a spoonful of seasoned pinto beans. The warm beans are followed by chopped tomatoes, diced onions and or caramelized onions plus yellow mustard and mayo and it usually comes with a roast chile pepper on the side. There’s typically a salsa bar too as is the case at Sonora Dogz. I tried the OG as it was my first visit and aside from the lack of mustard this seemed to be a textbook version. I added some green chili relish and pickled jalapeños to mine and it tasted just like the Sonoran Dog I had from El Güero Canelo in Tucson, Arizona, which famously won a James Beard award in the ‘America’s Classics’ category back in 2018. Big props to Willy and his wife and the rest of the Sonora Dogz team for bringing this delicious border food to Chicago. Sonora Dogz isn’t the first spot in town to do Sonoran Dogs but it is the first place to specialize in them. 

El Original at Sonora Dogz

Sonora Dogz
409 N 9th Ave
Maywood, IL 60153
(708) 375-9798
Website

TXA TXA Club

-Grubbing in Chicago
Creative Cooking in Logan Square

We’re more than halfway thru 2026 and I’m finding it tough to come up with a bunch of names as far as best new restaurants in Chicago go. I haven’t been everywhere but I’ve been to most of the spots I want to try that have opened thus far, there’s just not that many and it’s not for a lack openings either. Over the past few years a lot of restaurants in Chicago and beyond have gravitated toward concepts that feel safe. Stuff like smash burgers, pizza, chicken sandwiches, casual Italian, or steakhouse adjacent spots. I guess these formats have broad appeal but to me they all feel the same. I’m looking for spots that stand out in a crowded field and with that there’s only been a few exceptions lately. 

Recently Opened in Logan Square

TXA TXA Club is an all day cafe at 3268 W. Fullerton Ave. It went from a pop-up supper club to a permanent brick and mortar space earlier this year. Rather than fitting neatly into the "brunch spot" or "coffee shop" categories it gives off a European style cafe vibes. You can stop in for coffee at 8a or linger over lunch at high noon, meet friends for an aperitivo after work, or make a date place for cocktails and dinner in the evening. It’s a neighborhood type of spot. The name "TXA TXA" ("cha-cha") comes from the Basque word txoko, referring to social dining clubs centered on cooking, eating, gathering. That philosophy is reflected throughout as they host Sunday night supper clubs platforming chefs from around town while the menu isn’t really identifiable as far as one single cuisine goes. 

Pimento Cheese, Nam Prik Pao, lime cured pickles, saltines

The dishes here borrow ideas from the American South, Mediterranean and Southeast Asia often combining ingredients you wouldn't expect to see together. You’ll find a delicious rendition of housemade Pimento Cheese mixed with nam prik pao and served with lime cured lime pickles and classic saltine crackers. Nam Prik Pao is a Thai roasted chili jam that presents many flavor profiles ranging from sweet to smoky to funky and it pairs nicely with the sharp and creamy pimento cheese while the sweet pickles build even more flavor in what’s typically a very traditional dish.

Honeydew, Rhubarb Jim Jaew, Sweet Lime Oxalis

Depending on the season, you might find perfectly scooped balls of melon with rhubarb jim jaew, sweet lime, oxalis. As soon as I saw that on the menu I thought “that’s an interesting dish!” Jim Jaew is a Thai style dipping sauce usually made with chilis, toasted rice, herbs, lime juice, and fish sauce and I never thought to use it with sweet in-season melon but upon further review it’s a popular snack in Thailand. I love learning of new dishes thru restaurants which isn’t all that common for me anymore. I’d never even heard of Oxalis which is a little clover-like herb that adds a bright lemony tang and a nice visual finish to dishes. I appreciate a place where I can learn about new things. 

Butter Beans, Pea Shoot, Zhoug, Fenugreek, Egg

There is no burger or fried chicken sandwich on the menu. They do have a breakfast sandwich with a house made pork patty plus Umeboshi aioli and Salmoriglio that’s garnered buzz though I haven’t tried it yet. But you get the idea - Umeboshi is Japanese pickled plum and Salmoriglio is an Italian lemon and herb sauce. Quite an interesting combo. Some dishes switch in and out depending on the season such as a plate of butter beans with pea shoots, zhoug, fenugreek, and egg. Both my visits came on hot summer days and this dish was perfect paired with the heat. It was revitalizing. Same can be said for the cold noodles which are extra refreshing in their own right. Thin and slippery wheat noodles mixed with XO sauce, sesame, sweet soy, and a ton of fresh herbs is super satisfying.

Cold Noodles, XO Sauce, Sesame, Sweet Soy, Herbs

As you can see meat isn’t a focal point on the menu here. But they do have the previously mentioned breakfast sandwich as well as a pork curry. The latter is listed as BBQ Pork and described as a yellow curry with Chinese broccoli and Jasmine rice. It’s a pretty plain description for a dish with a ton of depth. I was transported to South Florida upon first taste in that it has a very Caribbean flavor profile to me. It’s been awhile since a dish got a real wow from me and there was more than one at that. I highly encourage people to check this place out and give them some encouragement for going against the grain at a time when most everybody else is playing it super safe. Now is the perfect time to do so with the summer harvest in full swing. The current menu pairs really well with the heat.

BBQ Pork, Yellow Curry, Gai Lan, Jasmine Rice

TXA TXA Club
3268 W Fullerton Ave

Chicago, IL 60647 

(773) 799-8511

Website

Dongpo Impression

-Grubbing in Chicago
Late Night Sichuan Food in Chinatown

The pandemic didn’t completely kill late-night dining, but it drastically shrunk the number of 24/7 spots and permanently shifted restaurant hours into earlier closing times. This was driven by surging labor costs, staffing shortages, and changing consumer habits. It’s slowly getting better but you needn’t look no further than Chinatown for just how few places stay open past 9pm these days. I could count the ones that did on one hand as recently as last year. A few spots have since opened that stay open until 11pm but even still, late night dining in Chinatown isn’t as prevalent as you might think. You basically have a handful of choices after 10pm and today we’re going to visit my go-to option. 

Locals Favorite in Chinatown

Dongpo Impression sits on Cermak and stays open until 12am daily. It’s from the same ownership group as Chengdu Impression and Chengdu Bistro. That restaurant group is spearheaded by Ryan Hu, nephew of legendary Chinatown restaurateur Tony Hu of Lao Sze Chuan fame. All three brands are showcasing food from the Sichuan region of China but the menu varies by location. Dongpo Impression specializes in Meizhou-style cuisine, a distinct sub-regional branch of Sichuan cooking originating from Meishan. Meizhou cuisine features the fiery flavors most people associate with Sichuan food but its overall style is characterized by a balance of savory, sweet, sour, and numbing profiles rather than just heat. As is the case with one of their most popular dishes - Dongpo Pork. 

Dongpo Pork

Dongpo pork aka Dongpo Rou is a classic Hangzhou dish featuring thick, melt-in-your-mouth pork belly braised in a rich and glossy mixture of Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, ginger, scallions, and rock sugar. The dish is named after famous Song Dynasty poet Su Dongpo. It's prized for its gelatinous, tender texture and sweet and savory flavors. I haven’t tried any other versions to compare with the Dongpo pork at Dongpo Impression. If you enjoy chunks of pork belly cooked until the fat melts into a soft and gelatinous clunk that’s tender than this is your type of dish. It’s deeply savory and subtly sweet and at Dongpo Impression it’s served with cubed tofu that takes on the flavor of the sauce.  

Squirrel Fish at Dongpo Impression

Dongpo Impression offers all the popular Sichuan dishes like Dry Chili Chicken, Mapo Tofu and Dan Dan Noodles but they also have a nice collection of dishes you don’t see everywhere. Some of them even come from different regions in China such as the Squirrel Fish. This is a Shanghainese dish that’s essentially a whole fried fish doused in a sweet and sour sauce. It’s typically made with a deboned whole fish with its tail still attached. The meat is scored in a cross-hatch pattern and deep fried so the flesh pokes out and curls, looking like the fluffy tail of a squirrel. It’s drenched in a glossy, sweet-and-sour sauce. The version served at Dongpo Impression is pretty good though it’s boneless and includes two pieces of flounder. But my go-to dish of late has been the Yushang Pork. It was put on my radar by John Kessler at Chicago Magazine. It’s a classic Sichuan dish featuring tender slivers of pork stir-fried in a tangy, spicy, and slightly sweet garlic sauce. The version served at Dongpo Impression also includes matchsticks of zucchini and peppers and wood ear mushrooms that absorb tons of the tangy sauce. I could eat this dish over a plate of rice for breakfast, lunch, and or dinner.

Yushang Pork

Dongpo Impression
228 W Cermak Rd
Chicago, IL 60616
(312) 842-7818
Website

Hacienda Memos Restaurante

-Grubbing in Chicago
Bargain Bites ft. Tacos de Discada in Galewood

It’s been awhile since I had a worthy taco spot to post about but I do have a few posts in the works. In the meantime I recently got reacquainted with a place that stood out back when it was operating on Grand Avenue. Hacienda Memos Restaurante has been open on North Avenue just past Oak Park Ave for three years now. They moved there from way west on Grand Avenue where they were popular for their tacos among other things. I had seen a friend post online from their current location and immediately put two and two together when I saw the tacos and Memos in the name of the place. 

Locals Favorite in Galewood

It took a little time to ride west and check out their new digs but I liked Memos when it was on Grand due to a really diverse taco selection that included tacos de discada which you don’t see in Chicago too often. Tacos de Discada are a specialty of northern Mexico in states like Chihuahua, Coahuila, Durango, and Nuevo León. They feature a mix of finely chopped meats all cooked together on a large steel plow disc ("disco") repurposed into a cooking surface over an open fire. The name comes from the cooking method rather than a recipe. Vaqueros reused worn-out plow discs to make a large outdoor griddle. Over time, the seasoned surface developed flavor, much like a well-used cast-iron skillet. Tacos de Discada typically include steak and other inexpensive cuts of meat such as bacon, chorizo, ham, and sausage mixed with onions, tomatoes, and peppers among other things. They come served on smaller tortillas and are ordered a few at a time. Memos has some other interesting tacos and they’re all under $2. The Taco de Indio is made with marinated beef and pineapple and the taco de alambre with pork, bacon, onions, green peppers and cheese. The salsas are also of note - both a green and a red plus a thicker one with roasted peppers and onions are equally spicy. 

Platter of Tacos at Hacienda Memos

Hacienda Memos Restaurante
6822 W North Ave
Chicago, IL 60707 
(773) 889-9999
Website

Fish Sandwiches in Chicago

-Grubbing in Chicago
Five of a Kind: New Fish Sandwiches on Scene

The fish sandwich continues to make a bit of a comeback. I recently did a little piece featuring four in Chicago Magazine back in February which you can see HERE. But since it was published there’s a handful of new options to be reeled in. When I named myself President of the ‘Fish Sandwich Club’ years ago I did so with the intent of making the fish sandwich popular again and I’d like to think we’ve made some strides in doing so. As of now most of the fish sandwiches around town are fried but I’ve noticed at least a few that aren’t so stay tuned for a possible run down of those later this summer. Today we’ll try five fried versions that have popped up since my Chicago Mag piece was published. 

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Mott St. (Wicker Park)

First stop might be the best of the bunch or at least the most traditional in the sense of how a fried fish sandwich is typically made. So let’s head over to Mott St. - the Asian restaurant on Ashland in Wicker Park is named after the unofficial "Main Street" of Chinatown in Manhattan. Mott St. has been around awhile now - I hadn’t visited in some time but that changed quickly when I learned they were putting out an excellent fish sandwich during brunch. It’s made with sesame panko crusted pollock, kewpie tartar, American cheese, lettuce, pickles, and a brioche bun. It’s basically an amped up version of the Filet O Fish and it’s outstanding. An immediate contender for the best fish sandwich in Chicago. 

Fish Sandwich at Mott St.
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John's Food & Wine (Lincoln Park)

Next up we head over to Lincoln Park where John’s Food & Wine on Halsted does lunch on Saturdays. The menu is small but mighty with a very good burger and an even better fish sandwich. The base is branzino and it’s panko breaded and dressed with a celery root caper slaw loaded with fresh herbs plus a kimchi ketchup on a soft and sturdy sesame seeded bun. Another contender.

Fried Fish Sandwich at John's Food & Wine
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Mirra (Bucktown)

Mirra in Bucktown is a unique restaurant on Armitage mixing the flavors of India and Mexico. If you go during brunch you can try a Skate Wing Milanesa sandwich made with panko crusted Skate Wing filet topped with fennel-lime slaw and served with sides of strawberry rhubarb achar, and a Morita crema. This is by far the most interesting of the fried fish sandwiches featured here today or anywhere in town for that matter. It’s also the largest, we split this and left pretty full. Props to them for coming up with such a unique fish sandwich. I love the idea of a fish milanesa using skate wing which is the edible pectoral fins of the skate fish, similar in size and shape to a pounded chicken breast. I thought the fish was a tad bit dry but an array of flavorful toppings helped even it out while giving off tons of exciting flavor profiles. I also appreciated the fact that it came with a really refreshing side salad. 

Skate Wing Milanesa at Mirra
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Andros Taverna (Logan Square)

Logan Square is our next destination, Andros Taverna to be specific. This bustling Greek joint on Milwaukee avenue now offers a crispy fish pita during its weekday lunch service. Crisp battered cod goes into one of the restaurants signature wood fired pitas along with a spicy aioli plus lettuce and tomato. I really liked this in big part due to the smoky and soft pita which is just about perfect. 

Crispy Fish Pita at Andros Taverna
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Bar Bambi (West Town)

Last stop takes us over to West Town where Bar Bambi opened on Chicago Avenue this past Spring. This is a hip and happening cocktail bar with an artistic atmosphere and a very good fish sandwich on the dinner menu. This is another fish sandwich modeled after the Filet O Fish starting with a fried halibut fillet dressed with American cheese, and House-made tartar sauce on a soft and squishy potato bun. It’s a textbook prep as far as the ingredients but each and every one of them is top notch.

Fish Sandwich at Bar Bambi
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See ya next time @chibbqking