-Grubbing in Chicago
Indonesian Food in Uptown
Chicago landed a full blown Indonesian restaurant when Garuda opened on Argyle in June. The restaurant is named after a mythological figure in Southeast Asia that's part giant eagle, part human, and represents strength, freedom, protection, and divine power. Indonesian food has always been difficult to find in Chicago compared to other Southeast Asian cuisines. So with its grand opening Garuda adds another dimension to the city's Southeast Asian dining scene and the Argyle corridor.
Garuda isn’t the first place serving food from Indonesia but it has the broadest selection of Indonesian dishes in Chicago to date. It’s a neighborhood operation but word seems to have spread beyond the neighborhood with some people mentioning they came from other states in online reviews. There's even a picture on the wall of a former president of Indonesia standing in front of the restaurant with staff and no it's not AI. The dining room is minimal in design and there’s limited seating so you may need to share a table when it's busy. Garuda is ran by a local Indonesian family that also owns a sushi spot so it’s a bit of a dream project as far as being able to serve the food they eat at home. The menu isn't massive but it's filled with specific Indonesian dishes, some of which are regional. Chicken sate is one of the more well known Indonesian foods but there’s different levels to it and the version served at Garuda is a saucy style. Chunks of chicken are skewered and covered in a flavorful peanut sauce. These were grilled ahead of ordering so the texture suffered a bit but the flavor was on point.
The most interesting section of the menu might be the sambals, which can be added to any order for $2 each. There are six to choose from, and I've tried three so far. Each packed plenty of heat and was deeply satisfying. One of the best ways to sample these is with an order of bakwan sayur, Indonesian vegetable fritters. They're made in the traditional style with shredded vegetables mixed into a light batter and fried until crisp. I particularly liked the sambal ijo, a green chili sauce associated with West Sumatra that's fresh, spicy, and aromatic. Similar to Nam Prik Noom, a Northern Thai chili sauce.
Nasi Rames is a Javanese dish with a central scoop of steamed white rice surrounded by smaller portions of various dishes on the same plate. It makes for a great introduction to Indonesian cuisine. You start by choosing a main, and for me, the choice is easy when beef rendang is an option. Originating with the Minangkabau people of West Sumatra, rendang isn't a curry but a rich, dry-braised beef dish. The meat is simmered in spiced coconut milk until the liquid evaporates and the beef fries in its own rendered fat. You round out the plate with a variety of sides, almost like a Southeast Asian mezze. Pictured below are rendang, stir-fried green beans, peanuts and anchovies, shrimp crackers, a hard-boiled egg, and sambal. Together, they offer a mix of sweet, savory, spicy, and crunchy elements that make nasi rames such a satisfying way to explore Indonesian food.
Garuda
1046 1/2 W Argyle St
Chicago, IL 60640
(773) 564-9100
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