Eating BIG in Milwaukee Pt. 4

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- Recent Eats in the Cream City

We were due for a Milwaukee post over here so I threw one together while the weather is still pleasant. I don’t have a ton of new things to say about the city but it remains a great place to take a daytrip or better yet spend the weekend. I feel right at home there even though I’ve never lived there. But I do live in Chicago and Milwaukee reminds me of Chicago in many ways even though it still has a feel all its own. To me it feels a bit like the Chicago I grew up in. It sits on Lake Michigan and there’s similar demographics just much more people in Chicago so Milwaukee isn’t as developed so it feels old school in many ways. Then there’s all the corner bars, just like they did in Chicago, they’re starting to disappear up there but quite a few still remain, just nowhere near as many as before. I always try and hit up an old favorite and a couple new (to me) places when I visit and maybe get to a brewery too. Another trait that Chicago and Milwaukee share is they both really come alive in the summer.

Pics from Milwaukee
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Restaurant Don Lucho

Carnitas Lucho, as it’s called by the locals, is a South Side Milwaukee institution specializing in Michoacán style Mexican food. As the nickname suggests this place has developed a serious local following for carnitas. They sell pork carnitas by the pound as well as in tacos which in my opinion are the reason to come here. The handmade tortillas are large and in charge - simply outstanding when paired with a ton of different cuts of the fried pig aka canitas de surtida. The salsa here is no joke either and simply put these are some of the best carnitas tacos anywhere. But you'll have to plan it right as they’re only open Fri.-Sat.-Sun. from 4a-2p making it a popular spot for weekend breakfast.

Carnitas Taco at Restaurant Don Lucho
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Num Pang Sandwich Shop

One of the more interesting recent openings in Milwaukee can be found downtown at the 3rd Street Market Hall. Num Pang is a Cambodian style sandwich shop that opened inside the hall this past spring. It’s ran by a husband and wife team - Nikki and Brian Podgorski. The sandwich stall draws on Nikki's Cambodian family recipes incorporated into sandwich form. Baguettes are baked fresh each morning and the fillings lean heavily into Southeast Asia with hints of lemongrass and herbs plus sweet and sour notes with pickled vegetables. I saw the ‘Cambo Hot Beef’ making the rounds online and made a note to try one the next time I was in town which was July. The sandwich consists of braised Cambodian beef roast with Papaya Salau, Chili-Oil Aioli, Carrots, Daikon, and Cilantro all on a fresh baked French baguette with a side of infused Pho broth for dipping. The beef is a play on a traditional Cambodian braised beef stew called ‘kaw sach ko’ and it’s dressed with a crisp papaya salad, chili oil aioli, an herb sauce, and cilantro and it comes with a cup of broth for dipping. There’s a lot of components at play, but they come together in a very harmonious way, making this one of the most satisfying sandwiches I’ve had all summer and an instant candidate for ‘Sandwich of the Year’.

'Cambo Hot Beef' at Num Pang
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Doner Kebab

My search for a real deal Doner Kebap in the States continued in Milwaukee recently. Doner Kebab is owned by an Eastern European guy who lived in Germany. They bake the bread there and slice to order from a spit of beef. All in all I thought this was good by U.S. standards but I’m still searching for a Doner sandwich in the States that can match the better ones in Europe. The bread was very nice which isn’t always the case elsewhere in the States. But the biggest difference between how they’re made in Europe and North America seems to be the abundance of fresh toppings you get in Europe.

Doner Kebab at Doner Kebab

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Estabrook Beer Garden

Milwaukee has a very nice public parks system. Estabrook Park is a 124.7 acre county park situated along the Milwaukee River, it’s located north of the city near Shorewood and Whitefish Bay. It’s used for walking, running, biking, soccer, softball, volleyball, skateboarding, playing (playgrounds) and there’s even an 18-hole disc golf course. But this being Wisconsin the parks most popular attraction is Estabrook Beer Garden. It sits on a bluff above the river and was part of the city’s revival of the traditional beer garden culture. I read a note on a plaque at the park that Estabrook’s opening in 2014 helped spark a beer-garden revival across the rest of the state. I like to come here on a nice day and enjoy a boot of beer in the sun while listening to the river flow. Aside from a nice selection of beers they also sell giant pretzels and some really good locally made brats. On my last visit to the beer garden they had a bacon cheese brat on special that I liked more than I thought I would. Really good.

Brat and Beers at Estabrook Beer Garden
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Ferney's Pizza

I’m always keeping tabs on Milwaukee’s food scene as far as what’s new and what’s buzzing and Ferney’s Pizza is that spot right now. It’s ran by Brian Cripps, he’s worked in Michelin starred kitchens and served as executive chef at Tre Rivali, and he’s also competed on Food Network's 'Beat Bobby Flay'. Ferney’s is clearly a passion project as it’s only open Fri/Sat/Sun and it’s ran out of the back of a corner store in an otherwise residential neighborhood. Customers line up in one of the food aisles and make their way to the back where Chef Cripps and a helping hand pump out East Coast style slices until sold out. I was recently in town on a Friday and arrived at Clarke Foods around 11:50a and there was already a line out the door. It took about 15-20 minutes to get up to the front where I ordered a slice of pepperoni and a slice of the ‘Brew Crew’ with Bratwurst, giardiniera, red onion, mozzarella, red sauce, and Pecorino. Fun set of toppings on the ladder but it’s the crust that’s most notable. You can take your slices to the church across the street and sit on the stairs if it’s nice out.

The 'Brew Crew' at Ferney's Pizza
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Ni Burmese

Milwaukee has had one of the country’s larger Lao communities for a bit but people from Myanmar's many ethnic groups such as Karen, Karenni, Chin, and Burmese are newer arrivals. Milwaukee also has a nice sized Rohingya community with the Burmese Rohingya Community of Wisconsin (BRCW) estimating more than 4,000 Rohingya people in the area. Ni Burmese is a mother and daughter operation that opened in Bayview in 2025. It’s a real deal Burmese restaurant serving Burmese / Myanmar cuisine as its own distinct tradition, rather than mixed with Thai, Chinese, or Indian food. Burmese cooking draws influences from all three cuisines, but it has its own characteristics with sour, salty, spicy, herbal, and crunchy flavors. I stopped in last year and enjoyed an order of samosas which the Burmese do with turmeric potatoes. These are more aromatic than spicy but I love the crunch factor from the thin wrappers. I also ordered a bowl of Mohinga which is considered Myanmar's national dish. It’s a fish based broth with vermicelli, traditionally flavored with things like lemongrass, ginger, garlic and banana stem. Ni Burmese serves theirs with a boiled egg, crispy yellow beans and coriander. It was good as is but a jar of spices sitting on the table really took it up a notch. Order the samosas, the Mohinga soup, and a tea-leaf salad if you want to try traditional Burmese food.

Lunch at Ni Burmese
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Todd I Believe I Can Fry

Todd ‘I Believe I Can Fry’ is a weird name for a restaurant but it’s also one that stands out I was curious what it was so I investigated further. As the name suggests this Bayview spot is frying Asian things like Korean style chicken wings and Tonkatsu among other stuff. I was intrigued when I saw it mentioned in a list with Milwaukee's best openings of the year. Honestly I don’t love Korean fried chicken like I do other some things but it hits the spot once or twice a year as was the case here. I tried a six piece wing with the K-Spice sauce and they were perfectly fried. These were some meaty wings with serious crunch and the sauce was super satisfying. I can see why this place is commonly mentioned when it comes to the best chicken wings around Milwaukee.

Korean Chicken Wings at Todd I Believe I Can Fry

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An Ox Cafe

I’m always on the lookout for Lao food in Wisconsin as there’s local communities in places like Milwaukee and Madison. An Ox Cafe is a Lao bar / restaurant on the Northwest side of the city. It’s owned by a husband and wife team with Lao roots. The name “An Ox” refers to the Year of the Ox as both were born in 1973. The menu is Lao / Thai as both cuisines share similarities and it doubles as a dance club at night so there’s alcohol here too. We had to start with an order of the Lao Sausage which is one of my favorite types of encased meat and is made on site at Ox Cafe. Lao sausage is herby and aromatic with a fatty texture and is typically served sliced with rice and a spicy dipping sauce. Really good version served here. We also tried the stir fried baby bok choy with roasted pork belly that hit the spot. The pork was crisp and tender as was the bok choy - a very satisfying meal.

Lunch at An Ox Cafe
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Archie's Flat Top

Archie’s Flattop is an extremely popular, retro-themed bar and diner located in the suburb of West Allis. It’s known for serving some of the best smash burgers in the Milwaukee area. This place just opened in 2023 but did so in the former location of an old neighborhood staple (Randy’s Neighbors Inn) and thus it features a more realistic aesthetic of nostalgia complete with black and white checkered floors, red vinyl stools, neon lights, and a working vinyl turntable behind the bar. I stopped in here with same friend mentioned above so we were able to try both the smash burger and the fried baloney sandwich. The latter comes with two thick slices of homemade smoked bologna sourced directly next door from a local butcher shop. It’s griddled on the flat top and gets two slices of American cheese and comes topped with a house sauce on a soft potato bun with pickles on the side. It’s a damn good version of a sandwich you usually don’t see this far north. As for the smashburgers, they too are really well made. Nothing unique just properly smashed and holding a ton of flavor. They do come with beer braised onions so I suppose they do have a bit of a Wisconsin touch to them.

Fried Baloney Sandwich at Archie's Flat Top

Smash Burger at Archie's Flat Top

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Lonchera El Tapatío Taco Truck

There’s a pretty good taco truck culture in Milwaukee and one of them serves up one of my favorite bites in town and it’s just four bucks and comes served in a styrofoam cup. The ‘Frijoles Charros ATM’ at Lonchera El Tapatío Taco Truck is a classic blend of Mexican cowboy beans mixing pinto beans with jalapeño, onion, tomato, bacon. Order them “ATM” it comes topped with steak, queso, avocado. 

Frijoles Charros ATM at Lonchera El Tapatío Taco Truck
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McBob's Pub & Grill

It’s hard to pick a single favorite bar in Milwaukee but McBob’s serves one of my favorite sandwiches in the city. It’s all about the Corned Beef at this Irish tavern coming up on its 40th anniversary. The corned beef is hand sliced and served thick and tender like a Texas brisket. I like it in Rueben form. The bar is a bit of a dive but the bartenders and customers are always friendly. The Reuben comes with your choice of Swiss, American or pepper-jack and in my experiences the cheese is well melted, the toast is nicely toasted and the thick corned beef is fall apart tender. McBob’s doesn’t stay open late so it’s a great place to day drink as it’s a classic Irish bar with great corned beef sandwiches.

Rueben Sandwich at McBob's
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Jack Pandl's Whitefish Bay Inn

Jack Pandl's Whitefish Bay Inn is one of the more old school spots in the Milwaukee area. It’s a German-American institution up in Whitefish Bay with more than a century of history. John and Anna Pandl bought the Whitefish Bay Inn back in 1915, when the surrounding area was mostly farmland and the restaurant has remained with the Pandl family thru four generations. It’s got the vibes of a classic Wisconsin supper club mixed with German-American cooking. The atmosphere inside is cozy, traditional, and very nostalgic. The bar is a real throwback and they have a nice outdoor dining patio too. The menu offers up German-American favorites like Wiener schnitzel, jaeger schnitzel, beef rouladen, spaetzle, and their signature German pancake. But this being Wisconsin it’s the Friday fish fry that Pandl’s is particularly well known for. Fish options include lake perch, cod, potato-crusted cod, and broiled whitefish. Well if you know me well you know I’m going with the lake perch and a potato pancake as my picks. We sat outside on a lovely summer day and enjoyed the butterflied filets with the same standard potato pancake many spots in Wisconsin seem to serve. I would definitely come back here for a few beers in the bar and possibly another plate of lake perch if it was a Friday.

Friday Fish Fry at Jack Pandl's
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Three Brothers

It’s tough to go up to Milwaukee and not stop at Three Brothers but at the same time it’s tough to go to Milwaukee’s iconic Serbian restaurant and not leave extremely full. It’s also a busy spot that doesn’t open until the late afternoon so you kind of have to plan a visit here with a reservation though I've walked in upon opening and been seated before. I’ve posted about Three Brothers previously - it’s one of the city’s most well known restaurants. It’s situated in an old Schiltz Tied House that traces back to 1897. The restaurants founding father gave it the name ‘Three Brothers’ in honor of his three sons when he opened it back in 1956. The dining room is one of the coolest anywhere - a real time capsule in so many ways. I’ve featured Three Brothers before and I almost always get the burek which you can check in the links for my previous posts from Milwaukee. My most recent visit came with a friend that loves cevapi so we stopped in right around opening for a plate and it was great as to be expected. We actually got the combo plate which comes with pork skewer too and it was excellent if that’s the route you choose to go but I still prefer the small, grilled minced meat sausages (cevapi). 

Raznjici and Chevapchichi at Three Brothers
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Previous Milwaukee Posts

Eating BIG in Milwaukee (2013)
Eating BIG in Milwaukee Pt. 2 (2017)
Eating BIG in Milwaukee Pt. 3 (2022)

See ya next time @chibbqking

International Eats in Albany Park

-Grubbing in Chicago
Five of a Kind: Albany Park Eats

Somebody on Twitter (I’m not calling it X) recently tweeted that “ethnic food” is better in the suburbs than it is in the city. There’s not many (if any) people out there more qualified than me to speak on this and it’s not. It's only true of a few cuisines. Chinese, Mexican, Thai etc is still way better in city. Some burbs do have some good mom + pop spots but it’s all scattered. Bridgeview has great Middle Eastern food but it’s nowhere near Wheeling where people think Pita Inn is the same thing (it’s not). What’s true is that there’s a ton of interesting spots to be found in the burbs but it’s so spread out to where it’s not really comparable. Somebody that lives in Chicago Heights doesn’t have the same options as someone from Morton Grove. But people in Highland Park don’t have close to what the folks of Niles have. You can do the same with the city in terms of the there being more options on the North Side than the South Side but the city is much more condensed when it comes to restaurants. Albany Park alone clears any suburb in a one on one matchup which takes us to this week’s post. Here’s five semi recently opened international dining options I’ve tried in Albany Park of late. 

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Xotikka

First stop is a very new spot at 4749 N Pulaski. It’s so new that Xotikka doesn’t have a sign up yet (Mahi’s Kitchen was the previous tenet). This is an efficient one man operation making some fantastic Indian sandwiches. The first menu item listed is Vada Pav, a Mumbai favorite that spread across India and has really started to take the States by storm too. Vada Pav is a spiced potato patty in a fluffy bun, accompanied by chutneys and sometimes cheese if you please. The potato patty, or vada, is mashed potatoes, herbs, and chickpea flour batter, and deep-fried until golden brown. It's placed in a pav, a soft, savory bun similar to a kaiser roll. I had to get one of these on my first visit as it’s the most mentioned menu item in the few online reviews and I always like a Vada Pav when I get one. This was bigger than any other I tried but still a very good deal at $8 with Amul cheese. The potato fritter was perfectly fried to where the exposed part was crunchy while the inside was soft and super flavorful with a nice and spicy profile. Mint chutney and the option to add cheese plus a well toasted sesame seeded bun round it all out. This was a very good version that filled me up right. I chose to add cheese but it’s shredded and not melted and didn’t really give off any clues that it was being used so I’d skip it. I’ll be going back for one of their Indian chicken sandwiches made in a variety of ways. 

Vada Pav at Xotikka
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Tikal Sabor Chapin

Next we’ll shoot over to 3216 W Lawrence street which is home to one of two spots serving the cuisine of Guatemala in these parts. The Central American country has a very interesting cuisine revolving around Mayan and Spanish traditions characterized by hearty stews, corn-based staples, and mild spices. The menu here is a what's what of Guatemalan favorites including ceviche, fried chicken and even stir fried chow mein noodles as “Chino-Chapin” food is very popular with Guatemalans. The trend began with Chinese immigration in the late 1800s, with immigrant-run food stalls, known as kodores chinos, becoming popular at local fairs. But first things first was an order of the Garnachas - a popular Mesoamerican dish found in both Mexican and Guatemalan cuisine, with distinct regional variations. The ones at Tikal Sabor are made with little puffs of fried masa topped with carne molida, sauteed onions, salsa and a sprinkle of cotija cheese with a vinegar cole slaw. These delicious one bite snacks pack a big punch of flavor. I could’ve easily ate two more plates. The chow mein was also tasty though pretty much something most people can make at home. 

Garnachas at Tikal Sabor Chapin
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Zaab E Lee

Zaab-E-Lee Thai Street Food opened at 3121 Lawrence last winter and immediately started to garner buzz. I visited on one of the coldest days of the year in hopes of warming up with some Isan style Thai food but it was a bit of a mixed bag. First we’ll start with the duds which were a bowl of seafood Tom Yum that had nothing distinct in taste and only came with shrimp. I felt like we might’ve been gringo’d (given the milder version) which sucks is still a thing. A plate of Crying Tiger wasn’t any better in fact it was worse. The steak was a cheap and chewy cut served at room temp. The winners were a very good plate of Sai Oua that was some of the better Thai style sausage I’ve had in Chicago and an order of the Moo Ping with Sticky Rice which was served piping hot off the grill with a very nice smokiness going for it. I might go back and try a few other things that have been propped up at places like Infatuation and r/ChicagoFood but for now I have to agree with Steve Dolinsky - it’s a mixed bag.

Moo Ping at Zaab-E-Lee
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My Doner

Let's head west to 3806 W Lawrence where My Doner has been serving spit sliced Doner since last summer. Turkish style Doner is the original spit roasted meat traced back to the Ottoman Empire (modern-day Turkey) during the 19th century, when vertical cooking was common in the 1830s-1850s. I stopped in around the time they first opened and got a pretty good beef Doner wrap. Not the best not the worst. They’ve since added a “Berlin style Doner Sandwich” to the menu but it’s not going to change your mind about there not being any great Berlin style Doner options in Chicagoland. It’s a good sandwich but it’s lacking in the toppings department and is far from stuffed like the ones in Europe. 

Doner Wrap from My Doner
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Katkout

Last stop takes us to 4734 N Kedzie for more spit roasted meat. Katkout opened last winter in a packed little strip mall that also houses a new Yemeni coffee shop. The menu here has some typical things with shawarma and falafel being popular on top of options like a zinger sandwich and even some less typical dishes like Middle Eastern offal sandwiches. I asked the friendly guy about the offal but he didn’t have any ready to go yet. So instead I tried the “Krispy Shawarma” which is a bit of a viral dish at the moment. Unfortunately what I got was typical “Arab style” in that it was sliced into bite sized pieces and served with fries. I believe the owner is Syrian making this a Syrian style shawarma. It hit the spot but didn’t stand out outside the pricing which was $10 with fries and a drink - good deal.

Arab Style Chicken Shawarma at Katkout
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See ya next time @chibbqking

Turkish Doner

-Grubbing in Chicago
Turkish Food in Uptown

The end of Argyle street, just before it hits Sheridan road, has turned into a bit of an international eating enclave, much like the rest of Argyle. But unlike the Vietnamese and Thai eateries that dominate the street, this block houses a Nigerian, a Venezuelan, and now a Turkish restaurant too. The generically named ‘Turkish Doner’ recently took the place of the old Don Pablo's Chilean Bakeshop which was said to be moving to the suburbs. Turkish restaurants continue to see a sharp rise in the Chicagoland area but there’s no specific area as to where - they’re opening all across the city and the suburbs.

Recently Opened in Uptown

Turkish Doner has seating for maybe 12 people so it’s a small space that seems to be doing a steady business with takeout based on my visits. As is almost always the case at these Turkish places you can usually find a group of older Turkish guys sitting and chatting at one of the tables. On my first visit I noticed that the Lahmacun was a favorite among these friends and family types as it was always at the tables where Turkish was being spoken. Lahmacun is a flatbread dish originating in the Levant region. An extra thin piece of flatbread is baked and topped with minced lamb or beef among other things and served with an array of toppings including tomato, onion and fresh herbs. Lahmacun is very popular in Türkiye where it’s commonly eaten as a snack on the street (stands there often roll it so it can be eaten on the go). The Lahmacun at Turkish Doner makes for a great snack and or appetizer or you can make a complete meal out of it as they serve it in orders of one and two.

Lahmacun at Turkish Doner

As the name suggests they also do Turkish Doner here. The popular street food featuring meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie is pretty much the national dish of Türkiye with just about every Turkish restaurant on earth offering it. Doner is the original spit roasted meat going back to the days of the Ottoman Empire. The Doner sandwich at Turkish Doner is a meal in and of itself. Spit roasted beef sliced from a quadrilateral spit of spinning meat in the back kitchen is paired with garlicky white sauce, and warm buttery tomato sauce stuffed into a soft house-baked roll with cucumber, tomato, and onion. This sandwich can easily contend with any of the Banh Mi for best sandwich on the block. I really liked the bread they used which was still warm when my sandwich arrived. The hot tomato sauce seemed to be the same sauce used when making İskender kebap which is Doner covered in a decadent buttery tomato sauce. I noticed they also have what they call a “Slavic Shawarma” wrap and I tried to ask the Ukrainian lady that works in front what that was about but she wasn’t too helpful.

Doner Sandwich at Turkish Doner

Unfortunately the Adana Kebap plate that the lady in front recommended was a dud that seemed to be rewarmed based on the texture. That said I know a guy from the food world that lives around here and he enjoyed the Adana Kebap so maybe it was an off day. But I should also point out that the warm red pepper based sauce included with my kebabs was awesome. Either way it’ll be tough not to get that sandwich the next time I find myself around this way. It’ll be interesting to see what goes into the space next door where Milly’s Pizza in the Pan used to be as that recently moved to Noble Square.

Adana Kebap

Turkish Doner
1007 W Argyle St
Chicago, IL 60640
(872) 232-0208