Asian Homecook

-Grubbing in Chicago
Rohingya Style Malaysian Food in West Ridge

Grub is the main focus here but before we get to the food and flavors of Asian Homecook on Devon I have to give a rundown of what led to the recent opening of this family run Rohingya restaurant. The Rohingya crisis remains one of the world’s worst humanitarian disasters. More than a million refugees live in overcrowded camps in Bangladesh after fleeing persecution in Myanmar, while those still in the Rakhine State face ongoing violence and severe restrictions. With global aid declining and dangerous sea crossings increasing, humanitarian groups continue urging greater international support and a long term political solution to this persecution. Malaysia is also one of the major destinations for Rohingya refugees in SE Asia as it’s a Muslim-majority country and there’s existing Rohingya communities there that can help with jobs in informal sectors. Malaysia is where the family behind Asian Homecook fled Myanmar before moving to Chicago which hosts one of the largest Rohingya communities in the country. The Rohingya Culture Center on Devon is at the center of that. The community nonprofit was founded in 2016 to support Rohingya refugees who resettled in Chicago. The center provides day-to-day services like ESL class, job support, case management, youth programs, and navigating healthcare and public services. It also acts as a cultural hub where families can stay connected to language, food traditions, and community life while rebuilding in the U.S. 

Rohingya Culture Center of Chicago (2740 W Devon)

I started to notice a few Rohingya owned grocers on and off of Devon the past few years so it was only a matter of time until a Rohingya restaurant opened which is where Asian Homecook comes back into the picture. It opened about two months ago, but you wouldn’t know it if just driving by as the sign from the previous business is still up. There’s a small sticker on the door and a picture of some dishes but there's not much else to let you know this is no longer an Indian kebab restaurant. 

Asian Homecook

On my visit it looked like a nice sized crowd of locals, older and younger, have embraced this place. The menu is made up of four sections (all Halal) starting with roti flatbread. Roti was brought to British Malaya by South Indian Tamil Muslim immigrants in the early 20th century, evolving from Indian parotta. An order of Roti Telur (egg roti) is a great starting point here. It’s made by stretching dough really thin, cracking an egg, and folding it into a square parcel, and pan-frying it until crispy. Asian Homecook serves their Roti Telur with a soothing lentil curry and a vibrant sambal chili sauce.

Roti Telur

Fried (goreng) noodles (mee) are another focal point. An order of ‘Mee Goreng Mamak’ was everything I love about stir fried noodles. Originating from the Indian-Muslim (Mamak) community, yellow egg noodles are stir-fried over a high heat and deliver a sweet, savory, and spicy flavor profile, achieved by tossing the noodles in sambal, soy sauces, spices. The Mee Goreng Mamak at Asian Homecook is a large and spicy portion with tofu, crisp veggies and crunchy chilis for just $7.

Mee Goreng Mamak at Asian Homecook

Fried Rice (Nasi) makes up the final section of food options (there's also a drinks page). Early reviews online point to Nasi Goreng Kampung aka Village Fried Rice. Nasi Goreng Kampung is a beloved, savory and spicy Southeast Asian dish featuring day-old rice tossed with rustic ingredients like pounded shallots, garlic, bird’s-eye chilies, shrimp paste, and crispy fried anchovies and it typically comes topped with a fried egg. The friendly English speaking waitress also recommended this dish as her personal favorite so I wasn’t going to pass it up. Unlike other fried rice variations, Village Fried Rice is extremely savory with a distinct umami punch and extra spice. The use of belacan (fermented shrimp paste) gives this dish a rich and extra aromatic flavor profile that pairs perfectly with the salty crunch of tiny dried anchovies. Diced chicken is included in the version at Asian Homecook but it’s basically a filler. The flavor, and there’s a ton of it in this dish, comes from all of the other stuff. 

Nasi Goreng Kampung aka Village Fried Rice

The most interesting options seem to be the daily specials showcased on their Instagram. That’s where I first learned about one of Malaysia’s most recognizable dishes - Nasi Kerabu. This vibrant blue colored rice dish comes from the the east coast states of Kelantan and Terengganuz. It's made with a delicately floral rice turned indigo blue by steeping it in a water made of bunga telang (butterfly-pea flower). It’s commonly served with fresh herbs, crispy fish crackers, and different proteins like fried chicken and fish plus a sweet and spicy coconut sauce. Wow I thought - this is one of the most vibrant dishes I've ever come across. I would be surprised to learn you can find this dish anywhere else in the city as Malaysian food is pretty scarce in these parts and the one spot we do have is Peranakan, an entirely different group with different origins, food cultures, and geographic locations. My visit to Asian Homecook reminded me of two things. The first was how despite all it's flaws just how privileged it is to be born in the USA. The second thing was I really need to go to Malaysia which sits near the top of my bucketlist. The food is a vibrant, mouth-watering reflection of its multicultural society, blending Malay, Chinese, and Indian flavors with spices, chilies, coconut cream. It's said the people are warm, exceptionally hospitable, and famously united by their deep, shared passion for eating, socializing, and celebrating their diversity. A meal at Asian Homecook felt like a sneak peek. 

Nasi Kerabu

Asian Homecook
2739 W Devon Ave
Chicago, IL 60659
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