Roadfood in Nashville

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties 
- Passing thru the Music City  

We stopped in Nashville for the night on our drive down to Florida this past December and I got to check out a handful of spots on our overnight stay. I hadn't been to the Music City in almost ten years so I went with a pretty big list of places I wanted to try but we would only be there for about 18 hours so I only got to four of them - the first stop is from a drive back from Florida a few years back. 

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Loveless Cafe

The Loveless Cafe might be Nashville's most well known restaurant and it's busiest restaurant by extension. Impressive considering it's about 30 minutes outside of the city center. They get a ton of roadtrippers even though it is a bit of a detour. But I was able to stop in for breakfast one morning when I was driving back to Chicago thru Alabama with my buddy. We didn't want to delay our return too much so we ordered to go as it was packed and there was a little bit of a wait for one of the 150 seats on site. This Tennessee landmark gets more than 500,000 visitors per year but that accounts for all the businesses on site including the motel and gift shops. It's story started in 1951 when Lon and Anne Loveless purchased an old tea room on Highway 100 and renamed it the Loveless Motel and Cafe. They originally served fried chicken at picnic tables on their front porch but they would eventually convert rooms in the house to accommodate a bigger menu and a need for more dining space. The menu is a collection of made from scratch southern favorites and as time has gone by the Loveless Cafe has become famous for their biscuits. Pictures of the famous adorn the walls, many of them with personal messages mentioning the biscuits. We still had an eight hour drive ahead of us so I stocked up on biscuits and they are indeed delicious. I scarfed down a trio of biscuit sandwiches on site including a ham and cheese, fried chicken and cheese and a fried green tomato with pimento cheese and saved some biscuits with jam for later on in the drive. I thought it was worth the pit stop for these especially if you order them ahead of arrival and skip the inevitable wait to sit-down. 

Biscuit Sandwiches at Loveless Cafe 
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SS Gai

Asian food is having a moment not just in Nashville but the rest of the south too. Quite a few of the restaurants on my Nashville “to try” list were Asian and SS Gai would be the first of the two I got to try. It’s located at The Wash which is a culinary incubator made up of multiple micro-restaurants testing out their concepts before making the leap to a permanent brick and mortar. Dare I say the Gai Tod (Thai Fried Chicken) at SS Gai is some of the best fried chicken in the south? 100% YES! Absolute best is debatable but this is every bit as satisfying as some of the well known old school spots. As they say it’s “fried chicken that hits a little by different” which is the perfect way to describe the Southern Thai fried chicken I first had at Soi Polo in Bangkok - one of those meals I’ll never forget. SS Gai hits the same high notes as far as skin as crisp as a potato chip made extra crunchy by topping it with a ton of fried shallots while the meat is extremely moist and full of flavor. It’s served with sticky rice, fried shallots, garlic, tamarind chili fish sauce, aromatic chili vinegar, and herbs and veggies like lettuce, cabbage, jalapeño, mint, cilantro, and red onions making it an absolute feast. I wish I had room for the Gai Yang (Thai grilled chicken), but after the Gai Tod and a wholesome curry made of roasted Japanese sweet potato with charred cabbage in a homemade green curry, I was stuffed.

Gai Tod at SS Gai
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Arnold's Country Kitchen

What a wonderful surprise it was to have learned Arnold’s Country Kitchen was back open in Nashville. I wasn’t aware this old favorite had returned until the week before we hit the road and it doesn’t seem to have skipped a beat. Arnold's Country Kitchen was founded in 1982 by Jack and Rose Arnold. This locals favorite for made from scratch southern food in "Meat and Three" form is setup like a cafeteria. Diners line up to choose their entree (meat) and which three sides they want to go with it (three).  I first came here back in 2012 and very much loved my visit - it’s a first ballot Roadfood Hall of Famer for sure. The roast beef is still cooked to a beautiful bloody rare and sliced to order and all the sides are equally outstanding. Arnold's Country Kitchen is must stop lunch spot. 

Meta and Three at Arnold's Country Kitchen
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Noko

I was able to secure a last minute dinner reservation at Noko - albeit an outside one in the middle of winter though it wasn’t that cold and they had heat lamps at every table. Noko is the highest rated restaurant in town by Infatuation with a 9.6 score. I liked what I saw and read - “Noko is our surest, most set-it-and-forget-it dinner recommendation we can make in Nashville. They serve ridiculously good Japanese wood-fired plates and crudos that have never let us or anybody we know down.” Unfortunately our meal was a bit of a letdown. I had high hopes for Noko which started with an absolute bang in the form of the “Burnt Ends Lettuce Wraps" made with smoked bits of beef belly with a spiced honey glaze served with carrots and bibb lettuce. This was one of the best things I’ve eaten all year but the rest of the meal wasn’t as exciting. Crispy Tuna Rice was good as was a bowl of Nori dusted fresh cut fries but the crab fried rice was a miss. It might as well have been microwaved as there wasn’t much flavor to it. I forget what the market catch was but it wasn’t anything to blog about. Would I go back? Yes but I might just make a complete meal out of two orders of beef burnt ends.

Dinner at Noko
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Dino's Bar

Nashville was a very different place when I first visited back in 2012. It wasn’t nearly as hyped up as it is today. I remember checking out what was a relatively unknown dive bar called Dino’s that served a great burger and I decided I would pay a return visit to the East Nashville dive bar that was later visited by Anthony Bourdain. From what I remembered they served a really good bare bones burger at a very fair price but that wasn’t the case on my return visit. It’s still a fair price at under $10 each but the bun was cold and the patty was a bit too compact making it a very average bar burger that was nothing like what I had remembered it to be. Oh well you can’t win them all. Until next time!

Cheeseburger at Dino's Bar
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See ya next time @chibbqking