Monday, July 15, 2013

Eating BIG in St. Louis

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties

-STL Style BBQ, Slingers, St. Paul Sandwiches and More

They say it's the gateway to the West, I say its the gateway to good times. St. Louis is often overlooked when people are planning a road trip but most of the time thats because they've never been. I'm from one of the great cities in this country and can say with confidence I could live and enjoy life in da lou. Its a beautiful city with many parks and tons of its old world charm remains. They like to eat, they love to drink, their passionate about sports and are most always welcoming. If you've never been it's a great place to take a weekend getaway. Lets roll around.

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Good to see you again Louis

First stop of this trip is to Smoki O's which is a favorite of my friend who lives down. He's the original dude I went on food explorations across Chicagoland with. Long before I had a camera or this site, we would ride around looking for good stuff to eat. The family that runs this Popular STL Style BBQ Spot in the North Riverfront neighborhood is really nice, they always have the block smelling good.

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"We keep it clean so you can eat it lean"

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Smoked Wings and Rib Tips

Totally spaced out and didn't order a pork steak which is one of the more popular pieces of meats to smoke in these parts. Sauce comes on stuff here so you need to ask for it on the side if you like it that way. My friend likes their tips and wings. Tips were ok, not up to par with some of the spots in Chicago but the wings were on point.

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The Rollin' Smoker

We spied this guy rolling thru the Northside and honked for him to stop but all they had was sno cones for another 45 or so while the BBQ finished up. Still pretty awesome seeing him roll around. I got my pork steak fix at Pennie's which is a place I had heard had one of the cities best. I doubt what I ate there was as good as Smoki O's and it wasn't like that which I inhaled outside a club in Brooklyn (IL) but the huge piece of steak with tender meat and slightly sweet sauce has to be one of the best fill you up meal deals in town. The folks eating here obviously stopped in for one often.

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BBQ Pork Steak from Pennies

A trip to STL isnt complete without a stop at Crown Candy Kitchen. You'll step back into time at this old world candy and ice cream counter. They've been around since 1913 and four generations later the same family continues cranking out homemade candies and malts.

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The Historic Crown Candy Kitchen

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Try a Johnny Rabbit Special: Fresh banana malt with whipped cream, nuts and nutmeg

They also do lunch and dinner. The biggest seller is what they call the "World's Best BLT" I think I remember seeing the Man vs. Food dudes pic here and him declaring it one of the five best sandwiches he's ever had or something like that. I mean it's a BLT done in the traditional way so no. But that said this isn't a BLT like your mama used to make...unless you're Honey Boo Boo.

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"World's Best" BLT served with at least a package worth of bacon

Well the food itinerary doesn't get any healthier from here. I have a serious/sick love for fried tacos. I've come to find that these seem to be a popular item served at bars and Mexican restaurants in places outside of and around STL. Particularly in some Illinois towns. They're also big in Kansas City but for whatever reason there arent many in St. Louis. The exception is a place called Mi Ranchito. I thought their chicken ones were better than the beef. They had a few options.

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Pan Fried Tacos from Mi Ranchito

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#RandomPics: Turkish Tent from Worlds Fair

The Slinger and St. Paul Sandwich are two of the cities distinct eats. No need for a history lesson here. These stoner creations are what happen when you live in a town where the bars rarely ever close and arent ever empty. The St. Paul is an American-Chinese food creation found in restaurants all over the area. My buddy pulled a sharp turn into some random spot in a strip mall so I could try one. An egg foo young patty is placed between cheap bread and topped with white onions, pickles, lettuce, tomatoes and mayo. I had a few bites but all in all it wasn't awful, something that can only get better with each beer and bong hit.

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St. Paul Sandwich from Wong's Inn

The Slinger is something everyone from St. Louis has a favorite version of. My friend loves Tiffany's which is probably a result of its hours (24/7) and the fact they serve booze until 2a. But its not a bar, its a diner and the old lady working the nights is a real treat. She and her grumpy attitude were bringing out some laughs from us.

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Late Night Slingers in St. Louie at Tiffany's

The usual outline for a slinger is two eggs, hash browns, and a hamburger patty or some other sort of meat covered in chili and topped with cheese and onions. Just like the Horseshoe up in Springfield (IL) slingers can come in both breakfast and lunch/dinner form.

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Breakfast Slinger with Sausage Gravy

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Original Style Slinger with Bacon

I enjoyed my original style slinger. I just mashed it all up into one big mush and inhaled the plate. Ya it was late and I was hungry so keep that in mind. There's a blog out there dedicated to tasting all the slingers STL has to offer and I noticed Tiffany's wasn't in the Top 10. I'm going to have to try one that is next time I'm down there.

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24 Hour Grease Pit (Eat Rite Diner)

We also came thru this 1940's style diner late one night after a show at the Old Rock House down the block. The burgers were frozen so it's not comparable to other old time classic like Powers in Fort Wayne. But they were a good quick fix.

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Cheap Cheeseburgers to soak up the booze

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#RandomPics Down by the River

Long day, lets get some rest before heading out for the eve. This would be my 2nd trip back to Hodak's  which is a place that comes with heavy praise for its fried bird.

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Locals favorite since 1962

Hodak's chicken is a St. Louis tradition. They love their fried bird from Hodak's down there. The people that swear by it live for it and even a few friends from Chicago of mine who make regular trips to see our friend agree with him that its the best fried chicken there is. I've been before and remember it for being good but not the best so I was glad to get a 2nd taste of it and see what was up. Especially since its been a few years and I've been around since then. We started off with an order of sticky wings and also some fried mushrooms. Wings were tasty and the 'shrooms were pretty damn good with their fried chicken breading and they give you an absurd amount for the $5 pricetag. Hodak's has very good fried chicken and a unique batter to taste. I'll give my friend that.

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Hodak's Fried Mushrooms

But I cant go so far as to say its the best fried chicken in the world. Still its a great place to eat. No doubt about that. Dinners dont come in 1/4 bird portions. A 1/2 order of golden fried chicken or an order of 5 whole wings are your options. They come standard with fries and slaw but other sides are available and a BBQ sauce comes with it. At $7.95 this is a great dinner value and the chicken comes juicy although I dont think it was freshly fried. Anytime it comes out fast I can sense that. I liked the fact it came with BBQ sauce which was also pretty good dipped with the chicken. Some say STL people feel like their city comes second to KC in an unfair way in many things such as BBQ. I haven't been to Stroud's but I hope Hodak's isn't better as far as fried chicken goes. Because with the hype Stroud's gets that would be disappointing. Rip's is still king for me.

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Fried Chicken Dinner from Hodak's

The food scene in St. Louis is really coming up. On top of all the old school long visited places theres some new spots making a name for themselves. One of the musts on a trip is Salume Beddu.

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Salume Beddu in the Lindenwood Park Neighborhood

"Salume Baddu is a small, artisan company, dedicated to the craft of Italian and European cured meats, fresh sausages and regional Italian specialty food items" Only the highest quality natural and local is possible ingredients are used here. It's a must stop in my book.

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Free Samples

If you're stopping thru here plan to spend at least $50 on cured meats and fresh salsiccie. Its a small space but they pack their display case with a wide range of offerings all made on site. Their mostarda is a must if you're bringing some of their salume to put out on a spread with cheese and crackers. They offer a traditional Roman Guanciale as well as a Spanish spiced one. Pancetta and Coppa always go into my basket as does Finocchiona Salame and fresh Diavolini sausage.

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Display Case

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Cured Meat Platter with Cheese

Lunch is served here so we feasted like some old Roman emperors on this visit. All three of the sandwiches we tried were excellent, I liked the hot Italian best with the Beast (Fresh sausage with roasted hot peppers and onions) right behind it. These guys are giving the Lou the goods.

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Porchetta Sandwich

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Hot Italian

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The Beast Salticia Sandwich...see you again soon.

Every now and then I have to sit thru a baseball game of watching my two least favorite teams play. I've been to alot of Cubs (Love/Hate) vs Cards (Hate/Hate) games over at Wrigley thru the years but never at Busch Stadium until last year. I will say the place is very pretty and all things considered (free tickets and drinks with passionate fans) a really fun time. I'm glad I can now say I've been to the new Busch Stadium and encourage all baseball fans to go at least once. Not many cities these days where baseball comes first but St. Louis is without a doubt one of them.

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Busch Stadium: Home of the Cardinals

-A day of eating in the Soulard Neighborhood

Its only fitting that an area that was settled at and developed by a Frenchman named Antoine Soulard be one of the bigger drinking communities in the country. Reason being is that Soulard is the French word for a drunkard. But I think that's just coincidence and the fact that the 'hood is so heavily loaded with bars and celebrations, such as the largest Mardi Gras party outside NOLA, is due to its roots. This was a neighborhood where many of the early day brewery workers built their homes. Today it's still filled with beautiful old school brick buildings which have been turned into bars, eateries, lofts and other places that intend on keeping the historic charm of the old world neighborhood intact.

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Soulard Neighborhood in St. Louis

I've gotten around da Lou due to my aforementioned friend who lives down there and never lets me come thru without eating well. A few lots down from my friends house is Luvy Duvy's. A great little spot on the corner that gets packed with locals there to eat and of course drink. I just had a bite of my buddy's biscuits and gravy which I thought were good but kind of plain. Nothing life changing but alot of the sandwiches I saw people chowing on looked very tasty. It was a lively place and my friend who lives there loves it. 

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On the corner of Arsenal & Jefferson across from Benton Park

After a few drinks at Luvy's it's off to an old neighborhood favorite called Gus' Pretzels. They've been around and all in the family since 1920. They weren't the only ones who started serving twisted dough though. As expected with the brewery being in the store's shadows and pretzels being of German heritage they were a popular snack both for work and play (drinking) for the locals who worked at the brewery back then and those who still do today. They must make 1,000's a day on the weekend as was evidence from the line where you could see the employees hard at work making them and then baking them and then letting them rest in a large room amongst many more with fans blowing down on them.

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Pretzel stick and a twist...good eating for $2 and change

St. Louis has a really great marketplace called Soulard Farmers Market. It has roots all the way back to 1779 when it was just a flat area of land where farmers could come sell their crops, dairy and livestock. "In 1795, Antoine Soulard was given a 122 acre plot that included the market grounds by his father-in-law, Gabriel Cerre. But, when the United States made the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, Antoine's claim to the land was put in jeopardy. It wasn't until 1836, after a lengthy legal battle and Antoine's death, that his widow, Julia Soulard, acquired the deed to the land. In 1841, she officially set aside two city blocks to be used as a farmers market..." from their Website.

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One of the two main buildings as it stands today

Every visit I take to a place that has a permament market like this I get more and more frustrated at the fact Chicago is lacking one. Whats wrong with my city? Their market is open Wed-Sat all year long. However only certain portions of it are open on days leading up to Saturday which is when the entire space is 100% occupied and thus the day to go. It's especially busy during summer months and was very vibrant the day we visited. If you needed further proof that its either Milwaukee or St. Louis for the biggest non tourist destination drinking city in America, check the 2nd pic of the collage below. That's the first vendor and sign I saw when we walked in.

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The Soulard Farmers Market

Soulard's Market is like a mixture of your local farmers market with a little bit of your local meat packing plant with the vending people of a Phish show and an Asian Flea Market mixed in. Add to that the fact you can shop and drink and it's got a little local tavern vibe going on as well. It was the most integrated market I've been to as there was all sorts of different folks shopping this Saturday. I liked what I was seeing even before the eating began. Its not the best idea to walk thru such a big selection of grocery goods while being hungry so first things first, some food and drink.

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Whats not to like?

There's a little section amongst one of the entry ways where theres a few vendors who sell food and baked goods and the rest of the good stuff like fresh butchered meats, shaved ice, sausage and beer. A couple stands sell sausage and one of them has a really good brat while the other sells their specialty, a German garlic sausage. It's a 100 year old family recipe and they sell them to take home at the butcher shop across from the stand where you can buy them ready to eat. The German Garlic's were fantastic and something I wish we had access to here. The next time I'm in town I hope I can get a bunch to take back. A local specialty of freshly baked gooey butter cake for the 3rd course and break in between meals was the only way to go while in St. Louis.

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Bloody Mary and Chicken & Dumplings from Julia's Market Cafe

There's a few other vendors selling food you can eat while shopping and I stopped in at Julia's Cafe at one of the entry ways to order a Bloody Mary and saw they had chicken and dumplings too. Very good but not nearly on par with Arnold's down in the Music City. After all that it was time to walk around see what else was going on.

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A look around the market

There was some really good looking stuff and pretty much everything you needed here from freshly grown local produce that was in season to Cardinals players t-shirt jerseys, bootlegged DVD's and beanie hats for hippies. Fresh flowers, cheeses, pasta and fruits and veggies too. The local stuff looked really nice as most every stand is occupied by local farms from around Missouri. We got a really sweet, juicy watermelon from one of them that was fantastic.

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Who says farmers markets are all about teaching people to eat healthier?

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A cool old business turned home in Soulard

You have to have some BBQ while down in da Lou. I was very much tempted by Bogart's when I first saw it as we were pulling up to the Farmers Market. It had a line out the door and my buddy said that their pastrami sandwich was amazing. I looked it up on google for a little bit while we were walking around and then before taking off I made a last second decision to grab something to go for the road.

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A popular BBQ spot in the Soulard neighborhood

I prefer the old school found on the side of the road pits to the newly opened places that get alot of hype which alot of the time is undeserved. I trust my friends taste for good BBQ as he's been with me for many good sessions. I don't consider much of anything from yelp as credible info but when a place has over 200 reviews and stays near five stars I dont see that as a bad thing. Usually even the most popular places get served single stars bc of something stupid. The reviews were good as were other things I read about the former pitmaster at a local favorite Pappy's and his new place. I was going to get the smoked pastrami but they were out of that which was a blessing in disguise as I went with the ribs instead. Another friend tried the pastrami and dint like it. The ribs however were really good.

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Bogart's BBQ Baby Back Ribs

Skip Steele who is co-owner of Bogarts is one of the founders of Super Smokers BBQ and a seasoned veteran of both the competition BBQ circuit and restaurant/smokehouse scene. He and a former GM of Pappy's BBQ opened Bogart's which has fit into the BBQ scene real well or so it would seem. It's not just ribs and pulled pork here. I heard great things about their smoked prime rib but would be hard pressed not to get the ribs again. They finish them with an apricot glaze that's caramelized with a blow torch giving them a sweet crisp exterior to pair with tender juicy meat with just the right amount of smoke flavor and perfect resistance off the bone. The baked beans and potato salad were as good as either or I have had. We took it al on an excursion along the Mississippi thru some IL river towns, stay tuned.

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A smokey, sticky, succulent delight of a bite

An excellent option for dinner in the city is the Sydney Street Cafe. It's my friends favorite spot down there and that was clear when everyone there knew him upon entry. It sits in a century old historic building with in informally elegant atmosphere. Just three of us on this trip and my friend did the ordering. They specialize in in continental and contemporary American cuisine.

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Pasta with Chorizo and Veal Dumplings at Sydney Street Cafe

Both apps were fantastic. It looks like the fresh made pasta with sausage dish over a colorful puree is no longer on the menu but it was one of the best dishes I've ate of late. My friend the regular got us three orders of the veal dumplings with a cilantro salsa. So good. The Crab and the Egg was also a winner for all. Not pictured were some amazing rolls served pre-meal a charcuterie plate served on a Boos block and a really spot on soup to start off. The pastry chef here is highly acclaimed and the Apple Brown butter cake with a caramel apple puree, spicy walnuts, caramelized Jonathan apple and foie gras ice cream was sensational.

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Crab & Egg: Jumbo lump crab, green goddess, crispy soft boiled egg, pancetta vinaigrette

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Apples Brown Butter Cake

We always spend some time at my friends local watering hole for some boozing and schmoozing while in town. I really like the vibe around the Soulard neighborhood. It keeps getting better each time I visit. I dont know if John's Donuts is located in Soulard but my boy had the first batch of the night delivered fresh to us at Trueman's Place as we drank one visit. I dont think they deliver, this was a guy working there doing him a favor. St. Louis as he told me is a donut town and these while still hot were as fantastic of a batch I've had in sometime.  The apple fritter, blueberry and maple bacon donuts were all fantastic and nowhere near $3 a piece. Donuts arent trendy here, they're traditional.

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Great drinking eats

Shortly after the donuts arrived that I experienced my only unpleasant vibes while in da 'lou. Some meatballs at the bar who I was getting bad feelings from all night I guess were either unhappy that my friend was enchanting all the waitress' or that he brought some Cubs fans with him to join in, or maybe they were just jealous they didn't get offered any donuts? But a couple of them decided to play tough. They were held down until bigger men came and then kicked out. Poor guy I hope is elbow isn't as bad as Wainwrights was a couple years back. Damn Cardinals fans, just because I'm from Chicago doesn't mean I'm a threat to you. Besides the Cubs and most of their yuppie fans suck, Ill be the first to tell you that.

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See you again soon St. Lou...

Smoki O's
1545 N Broadway
St Louis, MO 63102
(314) 621-8180

Pennie's BBQ
4265 Reavis Barracks Rd
St Louis, MO 63125
(314) 544-1661

Crown Candy Kitchen
1401 St Louis Ave
St Louis, MO 63106
(314) 621-9650

Mi Ranchito
887 Kingsland Ave
St Louis, MO 63130
(314) 863-1880

Wong's Inn
2666 S Big Bend Blvd
St Louis, MO 63143
(314) 647-1176

Tiffany's Original Diner
7402 Manchester Rd
St Louis, MO 63143
(314) 644-0929

Eat Rite Diner
622 Chouteau Ave
St Louis, MO 63102
(314) 621-9621

Hodak's
2100 Gravois Avenue
St. Louis, MO 63104
(314) 776-7292

Salume Beddu
3467 Hampton Ave
St Louis, MO 63139
(314) 353-3100

Luvy Duvy's
2321 Arsenal Street
St. Louis, MO 63118
(314) 776-5889

Gus' Pretzels
1820 Arsenal Street
St. Louis, MO 63118
(314) 664-4010

Soulard Farmers Market
730 Carroll Street
St. Louis, MO 63104
(314) 588-1206

Bogarts Smokehouse
1627 South 9th Street
St. Louis, MO 63104
(314) 621-3107

Sydney Street Cafe
2000 Sidney St
St Louis, MO 63104
(314) 771-5777

John Donut Co
1618 South Broadway
St. Louis, MO 63104
(314) 241-3360

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Eating BIG in Detroit (Part 2)

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties

-More Classic's and local favorites from the Motor City

Guess who's back-back? Back again-gain. Detroit is the shiznit. Ya I said it, I cant get enough of it and it's gritty yet mostly friendly atmosphere and to go with that, it's old school culinary gems. Of which there seems to be an extraordinary never ending amount. I like to eat like I was born and raised in Detroit when stopping thru and encourage folks out there to do the same. Go take in a Tigers game and enjoy some time at the casino if thats your thing or check out the good old school food scene they got going on. First up, not in Detroit but en route from Chicago is Gabriel's Hoagies.

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Longtime locals favorite in Ypsilanti, MI

I came away very pleased with this place. They first brought "hoagies" here in 1959 and not much has changed. They offer two kinds and most everyone is there for the cheesesteak. The other option offered is a "lunchmeat" special consisting of the usual shady cold cut suspects. The cheesesteak was legit for those who are a fan of them. The locals sure are since they've been around a while and have a "this or that" menu. They offer the steaks with peppers if you want, which are San Del brand 'tangy diced hot cherry peppers' which I thought work great. I've been back since my first visit.

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Cheese Steak Hoagie in Michigan

Riding along we stop in at a newer old school slider spot. I'm working on a report with 10+ places featured that have been around forever in the white panel buildings they sit in today but since this place is new I'll share it here. Judging by the building I'd say it was a different hamburger place in it's past. There's lots more to explore as far as the towns outside of Detroit go.

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Vinnie's Hamburger Stand (Canton, MI)

Detroit is a burger town, no doubt about it. They have a slider culture. White Castle isn't from Detroit but if I recall rightly, it's Chicago and Detroit where they have the most outlets of them. I'm shocked WC survives amongst the endless amount of old school spots who do their own style of "sliders". They arent steamed and lean more towards the size of a McDonald's hamburger but they do start out as balls of beef at each place which are then smashed with the onions on top. Vinnie's is a little more upscale than the old time spots and they use a potato bun and cost a little more though not much. I liked my double cheese for what I paid.

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Double cheeseburger from Vinnie's Hamburger Stand

The suburb of Dearborn is the home to General Motors and a great place to go if you like Middle Eastern food and culture. Arab Americans make up for 40% of the close to 100,000 residents and many of them own business' which cater to the community. Food wise there's too much to cover in one trip. On top of all this there's other great spots in the area that have been around awhile. Miller's Bar is often mentioned as serving the states best burger. Eating around Dearborn is another reason that keeps me coming back.

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New Yasmeen Bakery (Dearborn, MI)

This place wasn't as huge but it felt like a mall. Inside it was clean and packed with a younger crowd of people, very lively on what I now recall was 'Black Friday'. Back in the 80's the New Yasmeen was a tiny Lebanese bakery that put out many people from this areas favorite bread. Today they've moved into this much wider space and offer everything from their original baked breads to sandwiches and sweets. I'm not going to claim to be an expert on this type of food but everything we had we really enjoyed. The sweets seen in the two picture sets below were pretty crazy. I bit into one of those little light brown balls not realizing they were filled with some sort of sweet gooey concoction. Weird stuff. I wish I could of further explored the menu but we had other places to hit up.

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Lebanese eats in Dearborn just outside Detroit

Dearborn literally has handful upon handful of eating options. Over at LTH there were two places that came with big time praise from big time eaters. One place (Cederland) had been praised for stuffed grape leaves and another for its falafel (Al Ameer) which I feel I've been deprived of the good stuff. Decisions! Decisions? Well those that know me fknow if there's two I don't choose. Neither does whomever I'm with, "we're trying both of them". I love Middle Eastern food and that lust becomes greater with each visit. So no choosing, we tried both and it was the right call. Add to that a shish kebab and mixed shawarma (lamb and chicken) sandwich and we were good to go on this quick stop thru.

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Middle Eastern East in Dearborn, MI

One last time, I'm no expert but will go ahead and say both the grape leaves and falafel were the best of each that I have had in a while. The sandwiches were fantastic with the fresh bread and flavorfull fillings. For more info and pictures on these two great LTH found rec's click HERE. On into Detroit City limits we roll.

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You could spend days exploring the abandoned buildings in some parts

Cadieux Cafe was featured on 'No Reservations: Detroit'. I'ts one of my favorite places to visit whenever I'm in town. I cant get enough. To the point where I might have to buy an abandoned house right next door. Sitting in a neighborhood that looks more like the Detroit the outsiders have seen all it takes is a trip inside to realize this all American city built on the American dream hasn't died. Every city in America was built on immigration and when the auto industry was at its peak Detroit became a melting pot.

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The Parking Lot at Cadieux Cafe

Cadieux Cafe is a reminder that Belgian communities were once prevalent in the Motor City. The Belgian-American settlement stateside began in Detroit around the early 1900's when they were wanted for their skilled craft work. They helped fuel Detroit's early growth. Of course man needs beer and Belgian people take theirs seriously so at one time Belgian bars were prevalent. Cadieux Cafe remains. I've been here both day and late into the night and have not a problem to speak of so dont let the outside scare you away from one of the best bars in America.

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a different type of high life...

Everything about this place is classic Detroit and the type of spot you need to seek out around the Midwest while they're still around. I can imagine when the neighborhood and the abandoned houses around it were filled with people and the Cafe was rocking. In fact it was rocking most times I've been in. We weren't able to get a into a slot for feather bowling since it's still is a very popular place to drink, eat, and play the game that is Belgian's original pastime. This is the only place to to feather bowl in the United States that I know of. I look forward to going back and learning to play the game.

FYI

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People getting at it

The menu has appetizers (Liver Pate to Hot Wings), entrees (Fish n' Chips) and sandwiches (Holland grilled cheese to burgers) and some Belgian specialties too (beer stew, beer braised chicken) but it's all about the mussels. They come a few different ways which includes original style steamed in white wine with veggies and also steamed in beer and a few other ways. The garlic and white wine combo is a real winner. The orders come loaded with plump really tasty mussels. I gotta Belgian mussel fix that I've needed to kill by going here for sometime now.

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'Detroit Mussel'

I have better pics when it wasn't night and the bar this dark but love this one because you can see the steam rising from them and also take note of the bar where we were sitting at. You gotta love it as it's filled with old school beer caps by the 100's. Nothing has changed here except the neighborhood it's in which I'll stress one more time IS NOT DANGEROUS. It's just not Bloomfield Hills. You'll be a-ok if you visit and mind your business. Man would it be cool to have the Cadieux Cafe just a few doors down...

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...but theres lots of touch up work to be done

I'm working my way thru Old School Detroit eating establishments and was brought to the Dakota Inn by my good buddies sister and her friend while we were visiting one trip. "The Dakota Inn Rathskeller was opened on August 1, 1933 by Karl Kurz, the Grandfather of Karl E. Kurz, the present owner. Seventy years later (now nearing 80), Detroit's only authentic German bar is still going strong" via their website. I don't know that the Dakota Inn is Detroit's only authentic German bar, I went to another one in Greektown that was old and authentic (the drinking part anyway) but this place was what I imagine "authentic" German to be.

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The Dakota Inn Rathskeller: Since 1933

The original owner worked at the Ford Highland Park Auto Factory and saved up enough to start his dream of building an old German style Rathskeller in Detroit. It started out as a three stool bar and he built it out from there. Here we are today and you can still see the job he put into his place. I didn't get too many great pics since its dark inside but it was a great place to be. We sat in one of the many old wooden booths and enjoyed walking around the large space that's its become today seating up to 150 people. So I was told by the local who brought us here they throw a big old bash in Oktober. I'd like to go.

One word to describe the holiday season at a German Drinking Hall? Festive

They serve lunch Wednesday through Friday and dinner is served Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 5p until 11. It's a very popular place to eat and drink on Fri. & Sat. nights. We got a variety of things and everything was pretty good. About what you'd expect. Honestly I don't think the good German restaurants differ all that greatly but maybe I'm missing out. The potato pancakes, potato salad, Spaetzle, knackwurst, Bavarian brats and pork schnitzel all pleased as did the beer and atmosphere inside this Detroit gem. A good old place indeed.

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German Loungin'

Detroit also has quite the Coney culture as discussed in Part One of this tour. There's 100's of Coney shops around town including 'George's Famous' which the sign outside said was established in 1917. Located in Southwest Detroit on Michigan avenue theres not much on George's Famous Coney Island on the internet as I searched after our visit.

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Lets check it out...

I tried one to compare it to the Big Daddy's in town (Lafayette and American). I ate half and threw the other away. I know coneys can be a mess but this one was beyond that as far as staying clean. On top of that they used some skinless lifeless wiener like tube of meat, as opposed to the golden standard Koegel's brand the two more well known spots use. Stick with whichever one of them you like.

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Coney from George's Famous Coney Island

Detroit and some other places around the Midwest have some great spots for corned beef. I enjoyed my stop at Al's Famous Deli in Royal Oak. It was a random drive by and I decided to stop in and was glad I did. Their most popular selling sandwich consists of one of their famous onion rolls which  pressed and toasted with their corned beef Swiss cheese and cole slaw inside. Some might consider the slaw sacrilegious but it was tasty and the corned beef was good. Next door was an old school custard ice cream stand called 'Custard & Co'. I'll always be a fan of a cherry dipped cone on a nice day.

Al's Bread Basket Deli (Royal Oak, MI Deli)

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Ice Cream Shop next door

Rolling back into the Motor City one cant go thru here and not try Mike's Famous aka the holy grail of ham sandwiches but fate was not on my side one time around as they were closed for the holiday weekend. Hygrade Deli is within feet of Mike's Place and was open so why not? Another old school Detroit gem this place has been around almost 60 years from when it first started at the cities old market, the Western Market, which stretched across a piece of land where I-75 now sits. It was named after the anchor food operation there, Hygrade Food Products Corp.

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♫♪High Grade I'm curin'♫♪

It moved to where it sits today in the 60's and they used to get plenty of traffic from downtown. Nowadays it along with Mike's are about all that remains. The staff you could tell was like one big family with one of the waitress' adorable daughters running around. The food was homey and what we expected, better than the mid grades aka "Middies" from early high school you were used to. Corned beef is their biggest seller and I really enjoyed my Reuben which was cooked crisp. I thought their pancakes were as terrific a batch as I've had in a while, granted I'm not a big breakfast guy.

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Stack of Pancakes, who's got the ganja butter? It's legal with a card in these parts...

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Reuben Sandwich

The Eastern Market is a great place to do some meat shopping and also get some breakfast eats for those of you that are big on it. It was Sunday morning so the market itself and most everything there was closed with the exception of Louie's Ham and Corned Beef which is a popular breakfast stop around the market. Louie's was pretty packed this Sunday morning which was a good sign and the fact they mention both ham and corned beef in their name is another. Like I said, I'm not a big breakfast guy but love some good ham off the bone and real deal homemade corned beef hash.

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Located in the Eastern Market

The menu has quite a few options with both the ham and the corned beef in them. From omelets to sandwiches and so on there were alot of options but I stayed true to the game and went with the ham hash with eggs and a side of their corned beef hash. My buddy got a corned beef sandwich, a favorite food of his, he said it was pretty good but not great. The ham and corned beef hashes were different with the potatoes being larger sliced hunks in the ham hash. I liked both but enjoyed the CBH a little more because of the overall texture with smaller cut potatoes.

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Louie's Ham Hash and Eggs

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Corned Beef Sandwich and Corned Beef Hash

It was on the way here I experienced my most "Detroit from an outsiders view" moment since I've first been. We were riding around a neighborhood with vacant homefronts wand nothing else there anymore. The few homes that remain are scattered throughout weeds and concrete bulges in the cement. After a weird sequence of interactions we passed an abandoned house blazing on fire. We reported it to 911 since there was another house not far from this that was still being lived in with pit bulls barking from its yard. It was pretty crazy/weird and I remember hearing an old Eminem song from the '8 Mile' soundtrack playing in my head. It fit well for this moment.

♫♪You gotta live it to feel it, if you didn't you wouldn't get it
"I dont see what the big deal is, what? he thinks that he's skilled?
just cause he walks walkin borderlines of Detroit city limits?"
But it's different, it's a certain significance, a certificate
of authenticity, you've probably never even been
But it's everything to me, it's my credibility...♫♪

I know Detroit is taking small steps up as more younger grungier people aka hipsters are moving there and taking advantages of cheap land to do what they love be it music, art, food, gardening and so on. Hell I'm doing the same in some ways. I hope the city can recover but I don't want to see it turn into Phoenix or Orlando with strip malls galore or a "new Detroit" that no longer has what Detroit once did with all of its beautiful old buildings, landscapes, Made in America jobs and plenty of culture to go with it. It's not Los Angeles nor Miami, not much glitz nor glamor, and isn't the first place that pops into mind when thinking about a place to take the family for a weekend getaway but that's why it can be such an interesting place to visit. Detroit, BIG fan man. See y'all next time.

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I don't go around fire expecting not to sweat...

Gabriel's Hoagies
2585 East Michigan Avenue
Ypsilanti, MI 48198
(734) 483-5846

Vinnie's Hamburger Stand
47417 Michigan Avenue
Canton, MI 48188
(734) 961-9000

New Yasmeen Bakery
13900 West Warren Avenue
Dearborn, MI 48126
(313) 582-6035

Al-Ameer Restaurant
12710 West Warren Avenue
Dearborn, MI 48126
(313) 582-8185

Cedarland Restaurant
13007 West Warren Avenue
Dearborn, MI 48126
(313) 582-4849

Cadieux Cafe
4300 Cadieux Road
Detroit, MI 48224
(313) 882-8560

Dakota Inn
17324 John R Street
Detroit, MI 48203
(313) 867-9722

George's Famous Coney Island
6362 Michigan Avenue
Detroit, MI 48210
(313) 894-0245

Al's Famous Deli
32906 Woodward Avenue
Royal Oak, MI 48073
(248) 549-3663

Custard & Co Inc
32922 Woodward Avenue
Royal Oak, MI 48073
(248) 549-2777

Hygrade Deli
3640 Michigan Avenue
Detroit, MI 48216
(313) 894-6620

Louie's Ham and Corned Beef
3570 Riopelle Street
Detroit, MI 48207
(313) 831-1800

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