Mirra

-Grubbing in Chicago
Indian and Mexican Merge in Bucktown

First thing I do when learning of a new restaurant is check the menu to see if it’s worth putting on my hit list. I’m looking for things outside the norm. That might be a regional dish you don’t see at many other spots or it could be a creative dish you’ve never seen anywhere else. Simply put I’m looking for places that stand out in a crowded field. Today we’re going to visit a spot that stood out - Mirra. 

Recently Opened in Bucktown

Mirra is the brainchild of Chef Zubair Mohajir and his biz partner slash executive chef Rishi Kumar. Mohajir was born in Chennai and grew up in Doha while Kumar is Singaporean. Together they’ve teamed up to create one of the most interesting menus in Chicago combining Indian and Mexican ingredients. Before we get into my visits let me just say that this isn’t some Chipotle like fusion concept putting typical Indian dishes in a burrito or turning them into tacos. I wouldn’t even call this fusion food simply bc some people hear that and shake their head assuming half baked attempts at combining two cuisines. Mirra is far from that. It's a vibrant fusion of cultures from the lens of a kitchen. Simply stated I think it’s one of the most interesting restaurants in the town right now. 

Huevos Rancheros Lababdar

We’ll start with brunch which they just introduced this past summer. Every now and then I’ll come across a brunch menu that’s the opposite of monotonous and only then am I down to overpay for eggs. My other issues with brunch are I prefer to eat sweet at the end the day and not the beginning of it and I don’t like to wait until dinner to get a little bit of spice in my life. Simply put brunch is boring to me but not at Mirra where the cuisines of India and Mexico merge especially well when it comes to a mid morning meal. I’m pro-fusion when it comes to food because it can make for interesting dishes with unique flavor profiles when the people doing the cooking have a good understanding of the cuisines they’re blending. Well they certainly seem to have that here which is why I’m always keeping my eye on the menu to see what’s next. On a recent visit I was tempted by the Huevos Rancheros Lababdar made up of two soft eggs sitting in a tomato-tinga masala with Salsa Macha plus avocado and a fenugreek roti to soak it all up. It tasted new to me in terms of the flavors they were combining and bc of that I wasn’t sure about this dish at first but I liked it more and more with each passing bite. 

Idli Crab Benedict

It’s pretty much standard to have some sort of Eggs Benedict dish on your brunch menu and Mirra does but it’s not normal by any means - two perfectly poached eggs are placed atop a plate of crab sukkha which is a spicy and aromatic crab dish considered to be a delicacy of the Mangalorean cuisine from the coastal region of Karnataka in India. As far as I could tell there wasn’t much that was Mexican about this dish but I respect that they don’t go overboard. The menu definitely leans Indian with a bit of Mexican preparation as you can see in an order of the Shrimp Pakoda tacos. Pakoda is a popular way of frying fritters in India and at Mirra they coat wild gulf shrimp with seasoned garam flour batter and fry them. The shrimp come out crisp with a nice bite and work in-sync with avocado crema, salsa macha and a crisp cabbage slaw, all on a slightly chewy made on site blue corn tortilla. 

Shrimp Pakoda Tacos

The dinner menu at Mirra is equally intriguing. I highly recommend starting off with the Mirra Mezze plate which comes with four different dips - house Achar, Salsa Tatemado, Sikil Pak, and Guacamole - plus Tlayudas and Papads for dipping. The achaar is intensely tangy while the salsa tatemado is nice and smoky and the sikil pak is nutty and the guac nice and creamy. It all blends together so perfectly well. I've eaten this as a complete meal in and of itself on a hot summer night and it was perfect.

Mirra Mezze

I’m a big fan of crispy tacos of any type so I had to try the fancified version made with Hudson Bay Scallops, Mexican Green Curry, Nopales Pico, and Crispy Fenugreek Roti. I thought these were good but the scallops had a slight fishy taste to them. Rasul’s Roti Quesadillas is perhaps the most joining dish on the menu. Roast Mushrooms, Amul Cheese, and Chettinad Masala is stuffed into a house made roti before a trip to the griddle. It’s been a mainstay on the menu since day one. According to a blurb I read in Chicago Magazine this dish is “an homage to a signature dish at Rasul’s El Ranchero, a now-closed Northern California restaurant that broke new ground by bringing together the foodways of the area’s Punjabi and Mexican immigrant communities.” I love a dish with a fun backstory. 

Crsipy Tacos at Mirra


Rasul's Roti Quesadillas

Softshell crab is another menu mainstay though they’ve switched the recipe up since I tried it. On my visit the fried softshell crab was being made with a Salsa Negra, Madras Mix, Yoghurt, and Mint Chutney. It was a delightful dish but they’ve since switched the ingredients to a fried soft shell crab with Gujarati Inspired Khavsa and Almond-Vanilla Salsa Macha. I’m going to go ahead guess that the new version is just as good if not better than the old one. That said whatever is on the menu at Mirra when you visit is going to be interesting so you really can’t go wrong no matter which way you go.

Soft Shell Crab at Mirra

Mirra
1954 W Armitage Ave
Chicago, IL 60622
(773) 729-6214
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