Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- Checking back in on Indianapolis
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Indy is a good Roadfood city by which I mean there’s alot of fun old school spots you can stop in at. Shapiro’s Deli is arguably the most iconic of the bunch. This classic cafeteria style restaurant has been at it since 1905 and is still in the same family today as when it started. I think their Reuben is a contender for best I’ve had in big part due to the spectacular rye bread which they bake on site. The sliced corned beef is really good too but man oh man that hand cut rye bread is as good as it gets.
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German Chocolate Cake at Heidelberg Haus
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The Midwest is littered with cool bars no matter where you are. Indy is no exception. There’s some great bars to drink at in this city and Red Key Tavern is one of my favorites. This cash only establishment is one of the best bars in the country according to The Daily Meal. It opened in 1933 and was known for its rules like no cursing, no dancing, and no leaning back in your seat. While the rules have changed the inside remains very much the same. It’s got that old school feel that so many spots try to replicate but the only real way to do so is thru time and Red Key Tavern has been at for 90 years so you know it’s the real deal. Food wise the bar is known for its burgers and also its braunschweiger sandwich which is an embodiment of the tavern itself— nostalgic and straightforward. The sandwich has been on the menu as long as anyone can remember. “Braunschweiger” is a catch-all term for several types of German sausages but the version served at Red Key is spreadable, like pate, and sliced right off the log. It comes standard on wheat bread and can be toasted upon your request. You can also add onion, pickle, lettuce, tomato, or mayo. I thought it was surprisingly good.
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Pictured below is 'The Big Pawn" from Pawn Shop Pub - an old Long John Silvers turned local vibes bar. The Big Pawn is a hand breaded pork tenderloin that’s sliced in half and dressed like a Big Mac. Did you know that McDonalds once tested a breaded pork tenderloin on the menu back in 2002? It went on a test run here in Indiana but I guess the Hoosiers decided they prefer the mom and pop spots like this. There’s not a ton of variety when it comes to the dressing of a BPT so this one was a standout with the special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, and onion on a sesame seeded bun.
Big Pawn Breaded Tenderloin at The Pawn Shop Pub
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I first tried this Indonesian restaurant in its early stages as a ghost kitchen. Wisanggeni Pawon serves up some delicious Indonesian inspired street food. I’m not nearly as familiar with Indonesian cuisine as I’d like to be but Wisanggeni Pawon might be my favorite restaurant in Indianapolis. It’s a bit of an oddity in a city with a handful of Burmese restaurants but those are mostly found on the south side which can be an extra hour of driving going to and from downtown. Wisanggeni Pawon is ran by an Indonesian couple who ended up in Indy after a restaurant venture in the Netherlands fell thru. Well one country’s loss is another’s gain as Bambang Wisanggeni and his wife Putri Pratiwi are serving up some of the most exciting food in the city. Martabak Telor aka Crispy Beef Omelette is a savory flavor bomb of chopped beef with green onion and egg mixed with a special sauce and sandwiched between a crispy crepe that’s cut into squares for easy eating. The beef rendang is as good as I’ve had anywhere in the States. It’s rich and creamy and arrives with an array of sides like fluffy coconut rice, jackfruit gulai, steamed kale, and an omelet. But the best thing on the menu just might be the Indonesian sweet Dutch butter pancake with sprinkled chocolate, ground peanut, and cheese aka Martabak Manis. No joke one of the best deserts that I’ve ever had. I’ve never had this anywhere else but I felt like it was of a super high quality as it was just perfect. One of those dishes I'll never forget.
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I took a quick trip down to Indy last year to lend a helping hand I was rewarded with a Detroit style pizza just as good as any of the ones I’ve had in the Motor City. It comes from Futuro which is posted up in an old building from the old Angie’s List campus. We tried the Futuro Classic which comes with Ezzo pepperoni, housemade Italian sausage, fresh mushrooms and their house marinara sauce plus Pecorino Romano. They also do a tavern style thin and run a deep dish special but I highly suggest the Detroit style which hit all the high notes with its thick and airy dough that’s both light and sturdy with a lovely frico edge crust plus Wisconsin Brick cheese and a bright red top. Really good stuff.
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Believe it or not Indiana has a rich tradition of fried chicken. Our neighbors to the east even have an interactive map with some of the states best fried chicken mapped out. A good chunk of those spots are south of Indy but some of the states best fried chicken is found on the west side of the city in a Pakistani restaurant. Chapati is a contemporary Indian and Pakistani spot ran by Indy resident Maisum Farid. He serves up some of Indiana's best South Asian food at Chapati which also houses Shani’s Secret Chicken where he dishes out a South Asian spin on the Southern classic. Halal Chicken is soaked in buttermilk and spiced with lots of exciting spices before a trip to the deep fryer resulting in some of the crispiest fried chicken in all of Indiana. Thumbs up for the fresh cut fries too.
Fried Chicken at Shani's Secret Chicken
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Tacos at Julieta Taco Shop
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To understand just how good ramen in the U.S. has got over the last decade or so take a look at our next stop - a ramen shop connected to a tiki bar in the historic Irvington neighborhood. Shoyu Shop is a made from scratch ramenya started by a graduate of The Tokyo Ramen Academy. Like any serious ramen spot they only offer a total of four bowls with their namesake Shoyu Ramen leading the way. Shoyu style ramen starts with a sweet and salty broth made with a soy sauce base or “tare” as it’s called in ramen lingo. The tare is said to make up only about 1/10 of the liquid broth while the other 90% can vary depending on recipe. Shoyu Shop adds ‘Tori Chintan’ or crystal clear chicken stock to their house noodles along with chiyu (chicken oil) and chicken chasu (sliced chicken meat), pork chasu (sliced pork belly) and a soft boiled egg with a handful of chopped scallion. It’s a complex bowl of noodles that as recently as a decade ago would be impossible to find in Indiana. The tiki drinks at Strange Bird are also very good making for a great 1-2 punch when paired with the delicious ramen.
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I got to cross an old spot off my Roadfood bucketlist with a bit of a detour on a recent trip to Indy. Bonge’s Tavern (pronounced bon - gees) rests in a quiet area on the outskirts of Anderson Indiana about 40 miles northeast of Indianapolis. It sits in a building dating back to the late 1800’s. Bonge’s as a restaurant dates back to 1934 when Charles Bonge took over the restaurant and spent more than 60 years manning the kitchen before selling the place in 1997. It was recently sold again and the current owner chose not to mess with its success. Customers drive from across the state and tailgate outside when the weather is warm and there’s a wait - reservations recommended. The menu is fairly small but it has all of the basic proteins including chicken, duck, lamb, seafood, and steaks.
Bonge's biggest seller is their ‘Perkinsville Pork’ as this is Indiana after all and the Perkinsville Pork is a breaded tenderloin with a Parmesan crust plus lemon butter served with the days fresh vegetable and whatever potato prep they’re making on your visit. The first thing you notice upon that first bite is the quality of the pork itself. It’s got great texture as it wasn’t bludgeoned to mush. It's got great flavor too from both the butter and the cheese. This was easily the best BPT I’ve had in these parts. The scalloped potatoes were also on point. The steak wasn’t the best I’ve had as that’s a much bigger hill to climb but it was more than just fine. I really liked all the smoke flavor they managed to grill into it. All entrees come with jalapeño cornbread and your choice of tomato soup or wedge salad served with their house blue cheese dressing. I suggest going with the salad and paying the upgrade for the real deal made on site bacon bits to go with it. Bonge’s Tavern doesn’t do carryout but they do sell pints and quarts of the soup and the blue cheese dressing to go. We finished this fantastic meal with a marvelously made sugar cake topped with berries and whipped cream. I hope to one day return during the warmer months and tailgate. Overall this was one of my favorite stops of the year.
Indianapolis Eats
Eating BIG in Indianapolis Pt. 2
Super Eats in Indianapolis
6 comments:
Longs donuts are worth a trip to Indy for sure
This is the best article I’ve read on Indy dining in a hot minute and it wasn’t even written by a local. Much respect!
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