Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- Japanese, Vietnamese, Chinese and much more in Seattle
I took my inaugural visit to Seattle recently and ate really well. It
was actually my first trip to the Northwest which is every bit as
beautiful as the postcards portray it to be. Just a quick three nights
so we stayed in city limits but I hope to get back sometime in the
summer and do some exploring and outdoor sightseeing.
Greetings from Seattle
Never been to Japan,
though that will change, but I've been fascinated with the food culture
ever since I started reading all about it which in many cases happened over at LTHforum. Since Seattle has a nice sized Japanese population I was excited to scope out the scene there. I'll start this report out with all the Japanese spots I got to though I really only
scratched the surface as there were handfuls of other spots I wanted to
try but we only had so much time.
Corner Shot in International District
First
up would be an Izakaya with roots in Vancouver. I liked what I read and
then saw on them. They're open all day and were a short 20 minute walk
from our downtown Hotel so it was the perfect first stop.
Suika Seattle
The
atmosphere inside was pretty relaxed, as was everywhere else in
Seattle. I knew what we were here for and wasted no time in getting the
lady fed. First up was an order of Smoked Tataki with sesame soy
dressing and housemade chili oil. Simply outstanding. I'm sure the fact
this was the first thing we ate all day played a part but it was also
pretty much the only thing on this trip we ordered a second round of,
aside from oysters and cocktails of course. You get to try a little more
this way.
Smoked Tuna Tataki
Moving
onto the Grilled Yellowtail Cheek with grated daikon and umami soy.
Every bit as good as the tuna tataki. This was a great opening act for
what was to come later on in the trip.
Grilled Yellowtail Cheek
We
also got a round of Battera aka Osaka style pressed sushi where wooden
blocks are used to mold the rice. I believe mackerel is the common
topping in this style and it's usually lightly seared as it was here.
Another tasty dish.
Aburi Saba Battera
While
it's no longer an active enclave the Japantown district in Seattle
still has some interesting remnants from it's heyday as it's said to be
the
most intact historic Japanese American district in the U.S.
It's located in the International District which is where I headed to
check out the Uwajimaya Market which is basically like Mitsuwa Market
times twenty. I browsed through some things but because I carried on my
luggage I wouldn't be able to bring back any sauces, whiskeys, or
anything else fun. But I did hit up the food court.
Tako Kyuuban Takoyaki
Had
to stop for an order of Takoyaki. These little balls of batter and
octopus were good but I feel like they could've been been slightly more
browned. But then again I've never eaten these on the streets of Osaka
so I'm not too well versed in them. But I thought the
Love Balls Bus in Austin was better. Though still enjoyed these.
Takoyaki
Upon
entering Uwajimaya Market I spied a food truck parked across the street
and then again when leaving. I wandered over and was soon greeted by
the sweet smell of fresh cooked waffles.
BeanFish Food Truck
These
guys are cooking up made to order Taiyaki which is a favorite Japanese
sweet consisting of a waffle shaped fish stuffed with some sort of
filling. Most common being red bean paste. So although there were some
really delicious sounding options I stuck with the Jiro "a.ka. the
original; sweetened organic azuki bean."
Taiyaki
Staying
in the International District I had wanted to catch the Sweet 16 games
on Friday night and had the perfect stop to do, while eating food of
course. Located on the second floor of the building pic'd below is a
neighborhood drinking/eating favorite.
Fort St. George
Fort
St. George labels itself as a different kind of sports bar and while
there is a bar frequented by older regulars there's also a dining area
frequented by younger couples and families out to eat. Foodwise they
specialize in Yoshoku which is Japanese interpretation of western
cuisine. More commonly known dishes like Tonkatsu (Fried pork Cutlet)
are served as are less known plates like Hamburg Steak and Tarako
Spaghetti. I was all over the Doria which is a rice casserole that has a
Swiss connection.
I chose it with bacon and mushrooms, half and half. That being half
bechamel sauce and half tomato. Loved this dish. It was perfect with a
few cold Asahi's. It all made up for the crappy pre-HD TV's they had at
the bar. This place isn't for those looking for a nice night out. It's
anything but fancy.
Bacon / Mushroom Doria
Umi
Sake House is located downtown. Because of that as well as the fact
they sport couple different Happy Hours it's a popular spot for both
tourists and locals.
Umi Sake House
If
you're staying downtown this place makes for a nice spot to grab a drink. I'm just getting well
versed in Sake and learned some stuff here. Happy Hour is around the
normal post work time and then also later in the night after 11p. The
menu for it offers a bunch of different options both cooked and raw. We
ordered a few to go with the booze. Good stuff, maybe not great as great
as elsewhere around town, but better then you're finding in any
landlocked areas.
Sashimi Platter
Tuna Poke
Crunchy Prawns wrapped in Ramen
With
the two hour fallback I was up pretty early for West Coast time. Not
much on offer in the early hours, especially if you're not big on
breakfast to begin with. But I did find a cute little old school
Asian-American style diner.
Mia's Off Broadway
I
had read some reviews that made this place sound like Seattle's version
of Hamburger King (now Rice 'n Bread). As soon as I entered it felt
just like that classic Asian-American diner you'll find here and there.
There was a couple behind the counter and a few regulars sipping coffee.
Can't do a trip to Seattle without chowing on some teriyaki. It's as
commonly found there as the hot dog is here. Every Seattlean? /
Seattleite? has a spot for teriyaki in the same way we have a spot(s)
for hot dogs. Mia's is located right next to a Seattle College so it's
easy to see why it's so popular. Big plate of food with both juicy (on
the inside) and crispy (on the edges) bites of dark meat chicken.
Perfect with some white rice drizzled with the teriyaki sauce that
dripped off.
Chicken Teriyaki Plate
Sticking
with the Japanese fast food options I kind of wanted to try Katsu
Burger when reading up on spots and then decided to do so when we were
near there. Place was packed for lunch.
Katsu Burger
This
is a local fast food spot with a few locations in Seattle. I guess you
could say they specialize in Asian Fusion burgers. They're putting
Japanese ingredients into a burger focused menu. I believe katsu is
short for katsuretsu, the Japanese word for cutlet. Burgers here come in
beef, pork, or even chicken cutlets and are dressed in a variety of
ways. I rolled with the Katsu Curry option which comes with a Natural
Pork Cutlet topped with American cheese, curry mayo, tonkatsu sauce.
Everything includes cabbage, tomatoes, red onions, and pickles. This was
a mighty sandwich, tasty too. The side of Nori Fries are kind of
blurred but they were also awesome.
Katsu Curry Burger with Nori Fries
Last
up from my Japanese Eats portion of the trip was the best part of the
trip. I knew I wanted some sushi while in town. A little bit of research
led me to a few spots. One of the most popular places is Shiro's which
was formerly owned by Seattle legend Shiro Kashiba until he sold it.
Though he recently opened a new spot called Sushi Kashiba inside Pike
Place Market. Problem with that was they don't take reservations at the
sushi bar thus getting there when they open at 5p is best bet to indulge
in the Omakase. But Pike Place was packed all weekend when we visited
so I wasn't sure we'd get a spot there. Enter Wataru.
Sushi Wataru
I
read up on this place in a recent Seattle Times article as it opened
not to long ago. Chef Kotaro, the owner, trained under Seattle icon
Shiro Kashiba who was a longtime student of Jiro Ono in Ginza. He told
the story of when he joined Shiro at Jiro's spot as well as a bunch of
other interesting stuff as he stuffed us up. Really nice guy, and very
proud of his work. As he should be.
Chef at Work
Chef
Kotaro explained how it took him over ten years of training to feel
confident in opening his own spot where he's specializing in Edomae
style sushi. So don't go in expecting any California Rolls. He's using a
combination of fish flown in that morning from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo
as well as some locally supplied product such as Sockeye Salmon, King
Crab, and Geoduck. We were there for the Chef's Choice Omakase but had
to start with an order of Black Cod Cheeks. HOLY SH!T. Straight butter.
Best thing I've ate in forever.
Black Cod Cheek
I
was able to reserve some seats at the bar (5:30 / 7:30 seating times)
where we would indulge in the Chef's Choice Omakase. He throws together a
bunch of amazing extra fresh stuff and you just eat until you cant anymore.
Sockeye Salmon
King Crab
Amber Jack
For
us that was after round 22. Not going to post all the pics but I will
share some. Wataru is small as it only has six seats at the bar and 16
at tables. But you really want to sit at the bar and do the omakase.
Reserve your spot if in or headed to Seattle soon. Word is starting to
spread!
Tuna Two Ways - Zuke
Spot Prawn (complete)
Uni (Sea Urchin)
Then there's everything else. It was enjoyed. As I mentioned
up above I didn't get to hit many of the spots I had hoped for but did
save my google maps guide. Seattle is quite a large city so I used to it
figure out what spots were near others so I wasn't going from one end
of the city to the other and back and forth. Gotta make a stop at Pike Place
Market if you're an inaugural visitor which I was.
Pike Place Market
It
was a nice 60 degree day on the Saturday we walked over and thus it was
a madhouse. It actually made the Ferry Building Marketplace in San
Francisco seem tame. I got a nice chuckle when I saw a line extending
almost a block long and came to realize it was a Starbucks when walking
by. I assume it's the original. Another long line spotted for a place
called Piroshky Piroshky which is pushing Russian Pirozhki.
Piroshky Piroshky
Wasn't
going to wait then and there but I did walk back down this way on our
last day and decided to give them a try. Pirozhki are baked buns stuffed
with a variety of fillings. Everything from hearty to fruity. I tried a
beef and onion option and liked it. Good for a quick snack but not
something I would wait in a long ass line for.
Beef and Onion Pirozhki
The place in Pike Place that should have lines out the door is a semi new
spot from Seattle's locally famous Szechuan chef. It sits tucked away
thru a hall and up some stairs but it's easy to find with the signs
leading you there.
Country Dough
The
star of the show here is the Guo Kui. The premiere street food of
Chengdu, China. They're flatbread sandwiches where the dough is sizzled
in oil and crisped up in the oven. They're labor intensive and require
high turnover thus Pike Place is the perfect spot for this shop.
Making Flatbread
They
offer a few different meats and a veggie filling in a few different
styles. I loved the Szechuan chicken version which was both sweet and
spicy with a wonderful texture in the bread. I tried to return but they
weren't open yet. Would've liked to have tried a lamb cumin flatbread
and taken an order of hand shaven noodles home. They also do Chinese
Crepes and Meat Wraps and offer an assortment of teas. Definitely worth a
stop on your Seattle food itinerary.
Szechuan Chicken Guo Kui
If
there was one spot I was going to make sure I made it to, Din Tai Fung
was it. With a location in Seattle now, as well as Bellevue, this was my
chance to finally try the Taiwanese based Soup Dumpling giant.
Din Tai Fung
I
got there maybe 20 minutes before opening and a line was already
forming. This would be a commonplace on this trip, lots of lines in
Seattle. I was able to snag a seat at the bar and immediately placed my
order for a Pork/Crab Xiao Long Bao as well as an order of Shrimp/Pork
Shao Mai.
Xiao Long Bao
I
thought these were going to be better. Not that they were bad but they
weren't better than an order I had in Dallas recently and that umami
bomb of both crab and pork flavor just wasn't there. Some of the spots I went
to in Frisco gave off much bigger explosions. These just didn't seem to
live up to the hype or the $14 pricetag though I'm sure they vary by
location.
Shrimp/Pork Shao Mai
The
Shao Mai were a bit better but again not as good as I was hoping.
Thought the skin could've been more delicate. I probably went in
expecting the best dumplings ever so the bar was set high.
Making Dumplings at Din Tai Fung
Not
a big brunch guy but when on vacation it's all about having a good time
and where there's brunch there's booze. There's lots of Vietnamese food to
be found all over town ranging from pool hall grub to chef driven spots
in hip and happening neighborhoods.
Monsoon
Her
pick for a spot to meet up at after I finished over at DTF. No counter
offer from me as the brunch menu here actually looked appealing with the
dim sum part of the menu standing out. So even though I had just put down 20
something dumplings I was ready for more.
Shrimp Wonton
These
wonton were a candidate for best bite of the trip. First and foremost
as far as why was the shrimp itself. Nice sized specimens still fully
intact were full of succulent shrimp flavor and the skin was perfectly
crisp and not too thick. Green onion aside the shrimp had lots of crunch and pungent flavor. If I hadn't ate so much earlier I would've tried more
of the dim sum menu as it all looked good. She got the Dungeness Crab
Benedict which was loaded with crab meat and served with a side of
simple but delicious breakfast potatoes. Everything on the plate was
cooked perfectly.
Dungeness Crab Benedict
If
looking for some good food and drink late night this place in the
Central District is very hip and happening. They're doing Vietnamese
Cuisine with Craft Cocktails in an industrial setting.
Ba Bar
Street
Food made with local ingredients is the way here. Starting off
with an order of Bánh Nậm was a good call by our waiter. Described as
Vietnamese tamales these rice based treats get mixed with locally raised
pork and cooked in a banana leaf. They were great with the potent
dipping sauces served on the side.
Bánh Nậm
Also
got the Bún Chả Cá Lã Vọng option from the Vermicelli Bowl portion of
the menu. Served with Idaho Catfish, crispy imperial roll, cucumber,
dill, roasted peanut, shrimp sauce, turmeric. Very fresh and little
substitution of funk but plenty of sauce options on the side to add
more should you want to.
Catfish Vermicelli Bowl
Continuing
on with the hip Asian spots we head over to the 2015 'Best New
Restaurant' in Seattle. Located near the stadium(s) they're doing Korean
Style Sssam Plates with Steak and other meaty options.
Girin
It's
basically a Korean steakhouse and it's huge inside. The design is
pretty sweet. Same goes for the food. Just a Happy Hour session here but
it still allowed us to try their housemade ginger sauce in ssam form.
Got to watch some of the tourney and indulge in some good drinking food.
Would head back to further explore the menu if the chance was there.
Ginger Pork Sausage Ssam
I
didn't have much of an opportunity to explore some of the less touristy
traveled neighborhoods but I did get a chance to break away one day
while she looked at dresses. I chose to roll over to the White Center
Neighborhood where there's a bunch of different ethnic options. I went
with Cambodian food. I know people are starting to detest the word
"authentic" but I have to use it here as I didn't feel like I was in
Seattle anymore upon entering.
Queen's Deli
Just
me and a few locals speaking in native tongue over some coffee. The
menu was a whats what of dishes I've never tried. All of it under $10
and in many cases $8. I would wind up settling on the Num Banchuk aka
Khmer Noodle. "Old and very traditional noodle soup made from ground
lemongrass and spices, served with many kinds of vegetable." This was a
vegetarian dish but it still had substance. Underneath all the noodles
is a bunch of different greens. I enjoyed it as well as the housemade
egg rolls. Hard to find a better deal, so much food, for just $10.
Num Banchuk aka Khmer Noodle with an order of Egg Rolls
Taylor
Shellfish is an oyster farm outside of the city that has a few
different oyster bar locations within the city. If you can manage to
squeeze in during happy hour it's one of the better deals in town. Much
cheaper than the regular prices.
Taylor Shellfish Oyster Bar
I'm
pretty much a fan of all oysters but tend to prefer the cold water west
coast options. These were an assortment of Taylor Farms oysters with
the Shigoku and Kumamoto being most enjoyed.
Assortment of the days fresh Oysters
Always
down to check out a city's doughnut scene and did so at a spot that
gets lots of love. General Porpoise is owned by the group behind Seattle
heavyweights Walrus & Carpenter as well a The Whale Wins amongst
others.
General Porpoise Doughnuts
They're
doing custard creme filled doughnuts and coffee. I got an original and
loved it. Cant say I've had one like this in Chicago. The shop sits in
Capitol Hill right next to Bar Melusine and Bateau which are two other
hotspots from the aforementioned group.
Stuffed Doughnuts
As
long as I'm talking about Sea Creatures, the Seattle Hospitality
Heavyweight, let's get their most popular Seattle food stop up. Here's
a place most tourists make it too, and plenty of locals as well.
The Walrus & the Carpenter
Considered by many of professional to the one of the better restaurants
not just in Seattle but also the country. Happy Hour is a good time to
go but since the oysters are MP you're not getting any sort of crazy
good deal. Still the oysters themselves are divine.
View at the Oyster Bar
Aside
from the actual dining space being small, the menu is too. Just a few
options on top of the oysters. We rolled with an order of Grilled
Sardines with Shallots and Walnut Parsley that was just perfect. I'd
advise travelers to go early and guarantee yourself a seat though should
you have to wait there's a bar next door.
Grilled Sardines with Shallots and Walnut Parsley
The
people behind Manolin are former employees of Walrus & Carpenter so
we wanted to check them out too. Similar setup although this space is a
bit bigger especially if it's warm enough outside where there's a big
area surrounding a fire.
Manolin
Menu
setup is also similar to Walrus although there's not any oysters here.
The focal point is the wooden grill on display in the open kitchen. That
and fish. First order up was a plate of Smoked Salmon that I'm still
thinking about.
Smoked Salmon / Dill, Turnip, Mustard Seed, Sour Cream
The
salmon itself was as good of smoked salmon as I've had which I guess
makes sense considering the area I was in. The flavor combination of
smoked salmon and dill with some sort of cream is one that gets me
excited and this dish made me happy. After that we had to get a taste of the first halibut of the
season. Grilled over the fire this too was a harmonious.
The food was good enough to be satisfying at almost any price-point but
nothing on the menu on this trip was over $13 so it's an excellent deal and
a good way to taste a few things. Highly recommended.
Grilled Halibut / Epazote, Buttermilk Crema, Navy Beans
I'd
give the city's cocktail scene a solid B+ not quite on the level of
places like Chicago and San Francisco but better than Nashville and
others.
Canon was as good as the critics say it is, beautiful space as well, whiskey fans should enjoy it.
Rumba
was the spot for rum drinkers with 100's of bottles on display as well
as island vibes as far as food and music. Really liked it there.
E.Smith Mercantile
was the definition of hipster with a store selling toiletries for your
beard as well as bitters in front and a cocktail bar in back.
Bathtub Gin & Co. was hidden behind an apartment building in an alley but worth finding. Enjoyed a big boozy coconut drink at
Stateside where they're doing elevated Vietnamese food and drink.
Rumba
Also
available for your indulgence is a wide selection of cannabis and
cannabis related treats available at the city's Recreational Marijuana Shops. It's not quite like Denver where there's stores all over over but
there are about 40 something stores where the average age of those in
line is somewhere around 40 years old. Unlike San Francisco, I never
really smelled or saw people smoking it so you wouldn't even know unless
you visited one of the stores. I doubt much has changed since weed
became legal in the state of Washington. Prescription overdoses are probably down though.
Checking out the Menu at Uncle Ike's (for research purposes only)
Continuing on with the drinking spots we were near a place called No Bones that had tiki drinks and a totally vegetarian menu.
No Bones Beach Club
Stopped
in for some drinks which were good, not great, but an order of
cauliflower wings was enjoyed. These were meaty and sauced well but a
tad too big for one bite so a bit of a mess.
Cauliflower Wings
If
you talk best sandwiches in Seattle there's always going to be a
mention of Paseo which is a spot serving Caribbean style sandwiches.
Long story short the owner of that place got in trouble and had to sell
his business and did so to a local guy minus the recipes. The new owner then hired
the old employees to make the sandwiches like they used to. Not too long
after that, the sons of the former owner of Paseo opened up their own spot.
Un Bien
I
guess this place is pretty much the same stuff as Paseo but loyalists
will tell you which one they like better. Un Bien is known for long
lines so I was delightfully surprised to find maybe 3 people in it when
we arrived. Got the signature Caribbean Roast Pork Sandwich and it was indeed
as glorious of a mess as it was said to be. That pork is cooked in some
sort of crack while the onions are memorable and the bread is fantastic.
Seattle seems to be an excellent baking city. As good as this was it
wasn't even the best sandwich on this trip (read on).
Caribbean Roast Pork Sandwich
Lots
of spots to get fish and chips in Seattle and Spud Fish & Chips on Green Lake is a nice place to eat some with the views of the water
across the street.
Spud Fish & Chips
Cool
looking spot and I love the old time places (Since 1935) but these
F&C were just average at best. Overfried and the breading itself was
nothing special. The fries were better but I assume there's
better elsewhere in town.
Fish & Chips
Was able to slightly satisfy a crave that's always coming to me when I checked out one of Seattle's favorite late nite spots.
Pelmeni Dumpling Czar
Those
familiar with
Paul's Pelmeni in Madison will find this place to be alot
like it. Down to the pelmeni topped with hot sauce, cilantro, curry
powder. What gives? This guy used to be partners with Paul in Bellevue.
These hit the spot but when I said slightly it was because I didn't
think they were made with as much care as Paul's where the perfect
amount of toppings goes on and the dumplings are bit better in texture.
Half / Half (Beef / Potato) Pelmeni
Rounding
out this trip report with the Italian spots visited. Neither of which
are any sort of hidden gems however both are must stops on my itinerary.
If you get into Seattle in the morning this should be your first stop
for lunch. They don't dinner so if not on day one make sure you go on day
two. That's how good it is.
Il Corvo
Lines
start forming before they open but they move fast as it's counter service and
you sit after you order. There's three daily pasta selections as well as
some small bites like a plate of olives that was the best I had since
Spain. I got the Pappardelle Bolognese and she got an order of Sicilian
Perciatelli and both were perfection. I'd eat here twice a week if I
lived in Seattle. Only catch is they're only open Monday-Friday. Its worth extending your vacation or skipping work if necessary.
Pappardelle Bolognese
Perciatelli with Anchovies, Sardines, Garlic, Chilies, Chicorices, and Toasted Bread Crumbs
Last
stop up! Long heard good things about Mario Batali's Salumeria and
sandwich shop. Me and many others. Get here early because there will be a
line. I'd say it moves medium-fast.
Salumi
Everything
looked and also sounded good so I eventually just got what the guy before me
got which was a salumi sandwich with everything and their famous pork
meatball on the side. The meatball was good, sauce was top notch but I
prefer some beef in my Italian style meatballs. The sandwich was
downright glorious.
Salami Sandwich
I
was so disappointed in myself for not taking one to go home. The peppers and
onions are something special, almost as much as the salami itself. If
someone wanted to call Salumi the best sandwich shop in America they
wouldn't get an argument from me. See ya next time.
The Insides
___________________________________________________________
Suika Seattle
611 E Pine St
Seattle, WA 98122
(206) 747-9595
Tako Kyuuban Takoyaki
600 5th Ave S
Seattle, WA 98104
(206) 682-8256
BeanFish Food Truck
Check
site for locations
Fort St. George
601 S King St #202
Seattle, WA 98104
(206) 382-0662
Uni Sake House
2230 1st Ave
Seattle, WA 98121
(206) 374-8717
Mia's Off Broadway
1601 Harvard Ave
Seattle, WA 98122
(206) 325-4992
Katsu Burger
6538 4th Ave S
Seattle, WA 98108
(206) 762-0752
Sushi Wataru
2400 NE 65th St
Seattle, WA 98115
(206) 525-2073
Piroshky Piroshky
1908 Pike Pl
Seattle, WA 98101
(206) 441-6068
Country Dough
1916 Pike Pl #14
Seattle, WA 98101
(206) 728-2598
Din Tai Fung
2621 NE 46th St
Seattle, WA 98105
(206) 525-0958
Monsoon
615 19th Ave E
Seattle, WA 98112
(206) 325-2111
Ba Bar
550 12th Ave
Seattle, WA 98122
(206) 328-2030
Girin
501 Stadium Pl S
Seattle, WA 98134
(206) 257-4259
Queen's Deli
9808 14th Ave SW
Seattle, WA 98106
(206) 767-8363
Taylor Shellfish Oyster Bar
410 Occidental Ave S
Seattle, WA 98104
(206) 501-4060
General Porpoise Doughnuts
1020 E Union St
Seattle, WA 98122
(206) 900-8770
The Walrus & the Carpenter
4743 Ballard Ave NW
Seattle, WA 98107
(206) 395-9227
Manolin
3621 Stone Way N
Seattle, WA 98103
(206) 294-3331
Rumba
1112 Pike St
Seattle, WA 98101
(206) 583-7177
Uncle Ike's
2310 E Union St
Seattle, WA 98122
(844) 420-4537
No Bones Beach Club
5410 17th Ave NW
Seattle, WA 98107
Un Bien
7302.5 15th Ave NW
Seattle, WA 98117
(206) 588-2040
Spud Fish & Chips
6860 East Green Lake Way N
Seattle, WA 98115
(206) 524-0565
Pelmeni Dumpling Czar
3516 Fremont Pl N
Seattle, WA 98103
(206) 588-2570
Il Corvo
217 James St
Seattle, WA 98104
(206) 538-0999
Salumi
309 3rd Ave S
Seattle, WA 98104
(206) 621-8772
