-Grubbing in Chicago
Chef Driven Mexican in Dunning
You already know this but ‘The Bear’ is back for a 3rd season on Hulu. What you might not have known is Santa Masa Tamaleria is also back. The story of this masa forward restaurant on Addison began back in 2020 in the middle of the pandemic when restaurants had to close. Chef Danny Espinoza had plans to open a Mexican seafood restaurant with his wife but they had to scratch that idea. Instead they pivoted to tamales which they sold out of a commercial kitchen in Avondale but when the city started to open back up they moved to the suburbs where they took jobs outside of the restaurant world. As time went by they missed cooking and yearned for those interactions that working in a restaurant can bring and with that they opened Santa Masa Tamaleria at 7544 W Addison.
They also feature a Tamale Del Mes which takes us back to my previous mention of the The Bear. This month’s special is an Italian beef tamale that pre-dates the show but they brought it back to celebrate the release of the third season. If I'm being honest an Italian beef tamal sounds like something you would make for clicks on TikTok but this is hardly a gimmick. Chef Danny shows off his food knowledge and fine dining training by pulling off one of the most surprising bites of the year. He starts by roasting a piece of top round which also produces the gravy which is seasoned with the essence of Ancho and Pasilla chiles, Mexican oregano and more. The beef is sliced and mixed into fresh masa which goes into grilled banana leaves the same way a Oaxacan tamale is made. “Escabeche-esque” giardiniera is added behind the counter and a little cup of the gravy (au jus) is poured over when served. High quality ingredients throughout make for a fantastic snack. I asked Danny if he’s ever considered putting his beef in some sort of torta roll as it would easily be one of the best beefs in the city. I have no idea if that’ll happen but he did seem intrigued. You have until the end of the month to try the Italian beef tamale as its August replacement will be Corunda tamales - a regional variation from Michoacán.
On my initial visit to try the Italian beef tamal Danny had waxed poetic about his weekend special pozole so I made plans to go back for some of that when the weekend rolled around. Although his family makes a red version Danny has come up with his own recipe which is green. It’s pretty traditional in the sense of the dish but a few chef driven tweeks like chunks of soft and tender pork butt and fresh grilled tostadas make this one stand out. I think it might be the best bowl of pozole in town right now.
Santa Masa Tamaleria
7544 W Addison St
Chicago, IL 60634
(312) 982-9306
Website
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