Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties
- Restaurants Abound in London Town
We took a spur of the moment trip to London when my wives plans to travel to Barcelona with her friend fell through. Even though we had just visited last September we figured it would be smooth sailing since we were familiar with the city and had a ton of spots to check out. I'm at a point in life where I'm trying to visit as many countries as I can but I also want to return to the places I loved and London is up there among my favorite cities anywhere. It may even be at the very top as I loved our second trip every bit as much as the first and I still feel like I haven't seen even half of it. Two trips in and I'm sticking with my claim that it's one of the five best food cities in the world and probably the best in all of Europe. It's amazing how fast it all happened too as this would've been a crazy statement just 10 years ago. But it's more than just the food - I love the history, the culture, and all the exploring one can do on the back of the Tube. I used this quote in my last post about London but it's every bit as true after my second visit - "When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life" - Samuel Johnson
It’s fairly well known London has the best collection of South Asian eating establishments anywhere outside of South Asia and the options can be overwhelming leaving visitors with some tough to make choices. Indian cuisine is as regional as any and there’s all sorts of choices ranging from cheap chicken curries at the YMCA Indian hostel to Michelin starred dining in some of London’s higher end neighborhoods. But it gets even deeper than Indian food with excellent options for Sri Lankan, Pakistani, Bangladesh, Goan, Nepali, and Tibetan too. There’s even different levels to British-Indian food ranging from fish and chips served alongside dal and naan at a local pub or a tasting menu incorporating British ingredients to Indian dishes and fusion food too. I’m far from an expert on South Asian food or South Asian food in London but I do know you should be seeking it out when there. If you want to do it right subscribe to Vittles Magazine and use them as your main resource. Their feature pieces like “60 South Asian Dishes Every Londoner Should Know” is an invaluable tool to good eating in one of the worlds best food cities - and the strong South Asian food scene is London’s biggest food strength. If you wanna do it right visit a neighborhood like East Ham and eat at any and every spot that intrigues you. If you only got the time to find one or two meals and you must do Dishoom make the other a dosa as “London is neither a taco nor a pizza town but it IS a dosa town” - Vittles
Brigadiers
In between trips to London there was barely a day that went by where I didn't have a taste for some sort of South Asian food. But I wanted South Asian food like that in London so it was an easy choice as far as what we would get for our first meal on this return trip. Brigadiers was on my hit list on our previous visit but we missed it so I made sure to get there this time around. It's a part of the JKS Restaurant Group which was founded by three siblings of Indian descent. They also run the two starred Michelin restaurant Gymkhana as well as one starred Trishna (which would end up being our last meal in London) among many other spots. Brigadiers is inspired by the old military bars of India and it's a stunning spot in terms of its design. London restaurants have the best ambiance and this place is up there near the top. It's a huge space with multiple sections including a really cool pool table room. Its location in the Bloomberg Arcade in the heart of London's Square Mile makes it a popular place for all types. I noticed lots of diners were on business lunches then there was also a few families and tourists like myself. The menu showcases upscale Desi pub food and they specialize in various types of grilled meat. All of it sounded good but I couldn't pass on a chance to try the Butter Chicken Wings which are smoked wings tossed in a makhani sauce ala butter chicken. These had incredible flavor but were served lukewarm which took them down a slight notch. We also got Amritsari Fried Fish Paos which are well seasoned fish sliders served on pao and they too hit the spot but I ended up ditching half the bun as it was a bit too dense. No complaints at all with Dal Makhani and Garlic Naan which were each excellent renditions. I would and probably will happily come back.
Lunch at Brigadiers
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Lahore One Restaurant
After a swanky South Asian lunch I checked my map for a more laid back locals type of spot for my next meal. I decided to try Lahore One in Whitechapel based on the fact it was exactly that - a real locals type of spot. Online reviews include anecdotes from customers that have been coming here since they grew up in the area. I arrived on the early side so it was only half full but you could tell they were all locals, some of which brought their own beer and or wine. As the name suggests Lahore One is a Pakistani restaurant. It’s known for a few things including charcoal grilled Seekh kebabs and what some say is the best Chana in all of London. Regulars seem to flock to the kebab rolls which allow you to combine a kebab with Chana wrapped inside a piece of flatbread. I opted for the more substantial option pairing a two piece Seekh kebab with and an order of the Chana. The kebabs are made with ground lamb and grilled over charcoal which is always going to be better than gas. That’s another thing I love about London's food scene, back home it’s a real treat to find a spot cooking with live fire but in London they’re a dime a dozen. Seekh kebabs tend to have a real compact texture and although I prefer a softer texture when it comes to kebabs these were full of flavor from the mingling of the spices mixed in the meat and the smokiness from the charcoal. The cucumber raita worked perfect as a cooling tool. Chana is a chickpea curry native to India but also popular in Pakistan. I haven’t had a ton of Chana to gauge this one up against but it was well spiced albeit a tad bit dry.
Dinner at Lahore One Restaurant
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Dishoom
With ten locations and counting Dishoom is perhaps London’s most popular restaurant chain - there's also an Edinburgh location and rumor has it they’re eying New York for their first North American outlet. They also have a spin off spot called Permit Room with three locations in smaller U.K cities and then there’s the self titled cookbook which is a must own for home cooks looking to learn more about the food and culture of Bombay (current day Mumbai). Dishoom is ran by a pair of serial entrepreneurs who set out to create a spot designed to match the Irani cafés popular in Mumbai in the 1960s. We returned to the beautiful Covent Garden location for breakfast where I tried the ‘Kejriwal’ - “two fried eggs on chilli cheese toast. A modern favourite of the Willingdon Club in Tardeo, reputedly named for the member who kept asking for the dish, since he wasn’t allowed eggs at home. (Not to be confused with Arvind Kejriwal, leader of India’s Aam Aadmi – common man’s – political party.)” I remain convinced that American breakfast is as boring as it gets. I wish we had a place like this in Chicago and one day we may. Is this London’s best Indian food? No not by a long-shot but it is one of London’s best restaurant brands and a U.S. location would further advance Indian food in the States.
Eggs Kejriwal at Dishoom
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OMA
There’s no debating that Borough Market is flooded with tourists but I’d be willing to debate those that say there’s no good food to be found in the area. There’s plenty of gimmicks in the form of chocolate covered strawberries and long lines for essentially steamed paella but there’s also some good stuff to be had as we learned the last time we were there. Agora Souvla Bar was one or the highlights on our last trip - we loved the fresh and vibrant Greek style tapas they do and decided to check out their sister spot on this trip. Oma and Agoura have a 2 in 1 type of setup as one is on the bottom floor and the other is on top. OMA means "raw" in Greek so they have a really nice selection of fresh fish on display but it’s not a seafood restaurant specifically. We started out with a spread as the pitas at Agora were so good we figured they would be the same from here and they were. These pitas came out piping hot and extra fluffy making them the perfect delivery vehicle for a spread made up of Ajvar (roasted red pepper and eggplant spread) mixed with the Greek cheese Mizithra, and hazelnuts. We also tried the saganaki mussels which was a mound of steamed mussels sitting atop a mound of Tsalafouti, a soft and spreadable Greek cheese made from sheep's milk or sometimes both sheep and goat milk. It wasn’t exactly what I was expecting but the mussels were plump and fresh so it hit.
Snacks at OMA
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Akara
Anyone that uses Instagram knows that clicking on a post is going to result in your timeline being full of the very topic you clicked on. For a while there I was getting tons of London restaurant content. I saw a post about Akara when I had already returned from my trip in 2024 and was bummed to have missed it so I made it a point to check it out on this return trip. Akara is the more casual sister restaurant of the Michelin starred Akoko. It too features elevated takes on West African classics but with a bit of Brazilian mixed in as there's a connection in the cuisines going back to the slave trade. It's location on the outskirts of Borough Market along with being open for lunch and dinner means it's a popular spot for business lunches as there were quite a few groups dining in the bright and industrial dining room. We started off with the Sinasir Rice Pancakes served alongside a vibrant black bean hummus. I was blown away with the flavors of this seemingly simple dish. Of course we had to try the namesake Acara which are fitters typically made from black eyed peas. The beans are soaked, shelled and smashed into a light batter before being deep-fried until golden brown. I first had one of these at Acarajé da Carol in Lisbon and it's still the best one I ever had. The acara at Akara was good albeit a bit too dense. We finished off with a BBQ Cod Collar. Both of us love tuna collar (hamachi) so we were expecting something similar to that but this particular piece of cod collar was much larger than any tuna collar we've had. It was also a bit more chewy and slightly rare near the bones so not exactly what I was expecting but the Brazilian Moqueca sauce with Swiss chard was a nice touch.
Snacks at Akara
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Kolae
Kolae was another spot we missed on our first trip. It too is stationed right by the Borough Market and it would be the fist of four Thai spots we checked out on this visit as I wanted to further explore the local Thai food scene due to some really good Thai food we had our last time in London. Particularly that from 'som saa' which we all agreed was one of the best meals of that trip. Som Saa is ran by chef and co-founder Andy Oliver who pairs seasonal British produce with bold and boisterous regional Thai dishes. Kolae is his ode to Southern Thai food as it's named after the Southern Thai style of cooking skewers over an open flame, basted with a coconut curry sauce. Oliver and his team really do their homework often traveling to Thailand to explore the local cuisine and also pick up ingredients and equipment much of which is on display in the open air kitchen at Kolae. Southern Thai food is known for its spicy flavors and a unique blend of fresh herbs as well as seafood slathered in coconut curry and traditional spices including dried chilies and galangal - all of which is in in use in the kitchen. We started with a stir fried soft shell crab special that mixed a whole chopped crab with many of those bold Southern Thai flavors resulting in a medley of textures. It was rich and spicy and crisp and crunchy. But not to be outshined the Southern Gati Curry with Stonebass was outstanding. "Gaeng Gati" refers to a style of yellow coconut curries popular in Southern Thailand. They're distinguished by their use of coconut milk and turmeric-based curry pastes, resulting in a rich, flavorful, and an often spicy dish. The Gati Curry at Kolae had some absolutely serious spice to it, Thai style for sure. But as spicy as it was I couldn't stop eating it as this was arguably the best seafood curry I've come across.
Stir Fried Soft Shell Crab with wild garlic, curry powder, and egg
Southern Gati Curry of stonebass and betel leaf at Kolae
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Calong
There’s a real type of FOMO (fear of missing out) one can feel when choosing where to dine in London. Doing even just a little bit of digging will lead you to all sorts of tempting restaurants and with it some tough choices as far as where and what to eat. I have zero method to my madness as far as picking where to go other than simply picking the spots that speak to me the most. No matter how many spots I add to my map there’s always a few that stand out among them and Calong was one of them that I just kept coming back too as far as figuring out where I wanted to get reservations. It’s relatively new but word spreads fast in the social media age so you'll want to reserve ahead of time. There’s not many tables so it’s booked night in and night out giving it the feel of a lively Paris bistro serving beautifully plated modern Korean food with chef and owner Joo Won at the helm. Won ran the kitchen at Michelin starred French restaurant Galvin and you can see and taste the Euro technique in each and every dish but there's nothing out of the ordinary as far as the ingredients used or methods in which they were made. For starters an order of kimchi fritters with a chili based mayo was one of my favorite dishes of the trip. Fritters are far too often dense and doughy but these were the opposite as they were crisp and airy and full of umami flavor. I would come back just for the fritters but the rest of the dishes were also great making this one of my favorite meals of the calendar year thus far.
Kimchi Fritters with Chili Mayo
Sea Trout Hwe with Sesame, Plum Soy, Rhubarb
Joo’s Fried Chicken with Sweet Chili and Peanut
Sot Bop with Mushrooms and Brown Butter
Spicy Seafood Jjamppong with Aioli at Calong
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Shankey's
While researching where to eat on this trip I had come across an article about London's hardest reservations. I was curious to see what the spots were and I figured a place like The Devonshire would be listed and it was. So was Shankey's which was described as a laid back Irish-Indian restaurant that occupies an old bookies in Hackney. Shankey's caught my eye with mentions of delicious whiskey drinks and an interesting menu pairing the owner / bartenders Irish heritage with the kitchen staffs Punjabi background. The outcome of which is some seriously good pub food such as a cauliflower curry and cheese stuffed paratha. We also tried the buttered spuds made with crispy cornish earlies which are a locally prized baby potato variety tossed in a Szechuan scallion ghee plus a Sea Bream sitting in a puddle of XO sauce. Each was excellent on it's own but they all paired perfectly together. The menu is small but so is the kitchen where the food is cooked. Actually it's amazing they're able to put out what they do as it fits two maybe three people total. It's a small space hence the hard to get reservations but they release them at very random times so we actually scored a table for two the day before so stay persistent with checking for open tables if you want to eat here and you really should. The service plus the post dinner drinks and snacks we had were all top shelf.
Cauli Cheese
Buttered Spuds
Sea Bream and XO at Shankey's
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1+1 Rougamo
No English breakfast this trip but I did have an excellent bowl of soup dumplings one day. Not Xiao Long Bao soup dumplings but pork and cabbage dumplings in a sour broth soup. 1+1 Rougamo was a 15-20 min walk from our hotel so I walked over one morning with the intent of getting a Chinese hamburger aka Rougamo but I noticed a few of the young Chinese people eating there had the dumplings in sour soup so I changed my mind and tried that instead. A perfect way to start the day.
Dumplings in Sour Soup at 1+1 Rougamo
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Noodle & Beer
Noodle & Beer has got to be one of my favorite restaurant names of all time. I mean with a name like that how can I not stop as those are two of my favorite things. That said I wasn't sure what to expect as far as the food goes but I peeped the menu and it seemed pretty reputable with lots of Chinese noodle favorites including a favorite of mine via Chongqing. Wanza Mian is made up of thin wheat noodles and diced ground pork sitting on top a spicy oil heavy broth made up of chile flakes, Sichuan peppercorns, Chinese vinegar, and more, depending on the recipes. But the main thing that distinguishes Wanza Mian from other Sichuan noodle dishes are the yellow peas used as a topping with the pork and greens. The boiled peas add a creamy slurry-like texture and yellowish color to the noodles. This wasn't the best bowl of Wanza Mian I've had but it was easily the most expensive at more than £20 (without the beer). Noodle & Beer has locations in both Chinatown and Spitalfields.
Wanza Mian at Noodle & Beer
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The Parakeet Pub
I wanted to make sure we explored London's vibrant Gastro Pub scene a little more this trip and The Parakeet Pub in Kentish Town was at the top of my hit list for doing just that. The Parakeet is an old pub turned new with a big stained glass bar at the front and a large and open spaced dining room in the back. Most of the dishes on the menu end up on a large live fire grill which we were seated by. We started with an order of the Crab Lasagna - layers of pasta filled with fresh crab, Béchamel, spinach and deep fried - this tasted like something you’d eat on a San Sebastián pinxto tour, excellent. We were told by our waiter that the 'Braised leeks, pecorino sauce, smoked mushrooms' is a signature dish of sorts and I can see why - this wasn't your typical pub food. The 'Lamb Belly, Peanut, Sichuan pepper' likely benefitted the most from the grill as lamb and live fire are a taste match made in heaven. We ended with the 'Masala Fried Gurnard' which was some of the crispiest fish I’ve ever had and possibly the best pub dish too. I love any and all pub dishes with a little bit of South Asian flair.
Crab Lasagna
Braised Leeks, Pecorino Sauce, Smoked Mushrooms
Lamb Belly, Peanut, Sichuan Pepper
Masala Fried Gurnard at The Parakeet Pub
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Plaza Khao Gaeng
Nine times out of ten I can tell if a Thai restaurant is going to be good just by the smell of the place when I enter - that and a little menu research usually does the trick. Well I knew Plaza Khao Gaeng was the real deal as soon we walked inside and that smell of authentic Thai food hit me. PKG is ran by Luke Farrell who during his time as a chef has really tapped into the flavors of Southeast Asia. The food of Southern Thailand is on display at Plaza Khao Gaeng which sits on the second floor of the Arcade Food Hall in Soho. One look at the menu here and you can tell this is a real deal Thai spot based on what they're serving. For starters a salad (Yum Pla Budu) of fried seabream and shaved lemongrass with fermented Budu fish sauce was simply sensational as it featured all the bold and funky flavors that make Thai food so enjoyable. I still remember the first time I had Morning Glory (stir fried water spinach) in Chiang Mai and I've been in love with it ever since. You don't see it too much in the States but I always get it when I do. PKG serves a textbook version mixed with chilis and fermented soybeans. 'Pad Phet' is a spicy Thai stir-fry flavored with red curry paste, proteins can vary. The Pad Phet at PKG features seabream sitting in a spicy red curry mixed with makrut lime leaves and jungle herbs. Last but not least was the signature Massaman curry featuring beef shoulder and potatoes in a delicious dark red coconut curry. If you like bold and spicy flavors you're going to want to mark this place down as a must. Honestly some of the best Thai food I've had outside of Thailand.
Yam Pla Badu (fried fish salad)
Pak Bung Fai Daeng (morning glory)
Pad Phet Pla (stir fried fish)
Gaeng Massaman Neua (beef and potato curry)
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Durak Tantuni
I don’t know why anyone would visit one of the worlds most diverse cities only to eat mostly English food (see: Keith Lee) but those are the same people that will tell you London isn’t a good food city, and they would be partially right as it isn't a good food city it's a great food city. Those same people wouldn’t have a clue where to find real Turkish Tantuni as they're just not plugged into the local food scene thru publications like Vittles which is where I learned of Durak Tantuni in Harringay. Tantuni is is a popular Turkish street food native to the Southern Turkish city of Mersin. It's made up of diced meat (beef or lamb) mixed with tomatoes, onions, sumac, and herbs wrapped in dürüm or sometimes served between bread. Durak Tantuni looks like your typical kebab shop as it's a no frills place with late night hours making it a popular post pub stop for Londoners that live near there. All of whom are there for essentially the same thing as there's only two options on the menu - wrap or bread. You can watch as the cooks fry minced lamb in a wide, silver, shallow pan while mixing the salad it's wrapped with to-order. A wrap will set you back about five pounds and two of them should do the trick. Your wraps arrive with a bowl of sliced lemon and thin pickled peppers with a medium heat. I watched a local of Turkish descent as she switched back and forth between bites of her wrap and the long slightly spicy peppers and followed suit. These were a real treat after a few beers at the pub.
Tantuni at Durak Tantuni
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Siddhi Pure Veg Restaurant
I made my way out to West Ham one day for a little self guided food tour thru one of London's largest Indian neighborhoods. That line from Vittles I quoted earlier about London being neither a pizza nor a taco town but rather a dosa city really stuck with me and I wanted to make sure I ate a dosa while I was there and West Ham would be the perfect neighborhood to do just that. At it's most generic description Dosa is a a thin and savory South Indian crepe made from a fermented batter of rice and black lentils. From there it gets very regional as far as how the dosa is made and what it's stuffed with and what type of chutneys come served with it. My visit to West Ham was on a Sunday which meant the neighborhood was bustling with locals and their families out and about. I searched my phone for good dosa options in the area and a few of them were packed to the point there were crowds outside and one of those spots has locations in the U.S so I passed on those and ended up at Siddhi Pure Veg which was busy but way less chaotic than some of the other spots up and down the block. The menu at Siddhi has lots of South Indian staples including a variety of dosa options. I ended up choosing the Paper Masala Dosa which I is a thinner and crispier than masala dosa albeit made with the same batter that masala dosa is made with. "Masala Dosa" refers to when your dosa comes stuffed with a well spiced mashed potato curry. I haven't had a ton of dosa but have always enjoyed it when I have had it and this was the most enjoyable one yet. The texture of the crepe was thin and crisp while the potato curry was spiced just right but it was the chutneys that really brought this one to the top. That and a cup of yellow dal that had some very serious spice going for it. Count me a fan!
Paper Masala Dosa at Siddhi Pure Veg Restaurant
Hyderabadi Spice
I decided to try Hyderabadi Spice on a whim and it changed my whole perception of biryani, the exact origin of which is uncertain. What we do know is that biryani is of South Indian origin and it was likely derived from pilaf varieties brought to South Asia by Arab traders. Biryani is so big in India that every region has it's own variety and even though biryani is served at just about every South Asian restaurant out there it's tricky for a restaurant to do it right. Perhaps that's why I never had a biryani that made me want to come back for more. Not until I tried the version at Hyderabadi Spice which was so damn fresh and fluffy and extremely pungent with big hits of cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom.
Hyderabadi Biryani at Hyderabadi Spice
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Udaya Kerala Restaurant
This regional Indian restaurant featuring the food and flavors of Kerala was probably the top spot on my hit list and the main reason I came out to East Ham. Udaya Kerala Restaurant sits a couple blocks off the main strip on the corner of a residential area. I learned about it thru the amazing Vittles Substack which featured one
of Udaya's signature dishes in their excellent roundup of "60 South Asian Dishes Every Londoner Should Know". I knew then and there that I wanted to try the Kerala style Netholi Fry which is a popular Keralan dish where anchovies are marinated with spices and fried in coconut oil with curry leaves. Further investigation into Udaya had me clamoring to eat there weeks before we flew out to London and it was worth the wait. Unfortunately I was all by myself and wanted to try a few other places in the area so I didn't have the stomach space to dive deep into the menu which is filled with stuff I wanted to try. I was able to contain myself and get the aforementioned fried anchovies which were crispy but not over fried as they broke apart easily with each little piece packing a ton of flavor. These were perfect paired with a big bottle of cold Kingfisher beer.
Netholi Fry
As much as I wanted to get the Fish Pollichathu the Beef Fry seemed like the right call based on the fact I was all by myself and the fish which is wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in coconut oil is served whole and meant to feed a few. The Ularthiyathu aka "Kerala Beef Fry" was much more manageable for one person even with a side order of appam (fermented rice pancake). This Keralan staple is made with a slurry of South Indian spices, coconut slices, and curry leaves. The beef is typically pressure cooked then tossed and fried in coconut oil with onions and curry leaves. The version served at Udaya was every bit as god as it looked. You don't see much beef in Indian cuisine due to the religious significance of cows in Hinduism but Kerala is an exception due to a unique set of factors including the state's diverse cultural influences and a significant Christian population. It's not uncommon in those parts for a Hindu, Muslim and Christian to be bonding over a plate of beef fry.
Beef Fry at Udaya Kerala Restaurant
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Kiln
Kiln is a well known Thai restaurant in Soho that can be tough to gauge based on the reviews. It’s clearly a polarizing place as some people call it the best Thai food in London while others say it’s overrated. That said lots of the complaints relate to the portion sizes which IMO makes a review useless. If the food is really good the portion sizing should not be an issue and it wasn’t for me bc the food at Kiln is fantastic. It's ran by Chef Ben Chapman who’s the co-founding director of Super 8 Restaurants which runs some of London’s most critically acclaimed spots including Smoking Goat and Brat. Kiln refers to a type of oven with a thermally insulated chamber. Chapman and his team secured one in Thailand for their sick open kitchen setup. Diners can watch the cooks cooking up fiery, authentic Thai dishes with clay pots, woks and live fire grills. There is no Pad Thai on the menu which is a reflection of rural Thailand with an emphasis on high quality local ingredients. For starters an order of the Som Tam with Radish and Beetroot was fantastically funky and brought back memories of Thailand upon my first bite. The menu switches up based on what they can get fresh but the Clay Pot Baked Glass Noodles with Tamworth Pork Belly and Brown Crab Meat seems to be a mainstay. Their signature dish is loaded up with soy sauce and pungent fish sauce and worthy of its inclusion among London’s most iconic dishes. The grilled chicken I had in Chiang Mai back in 2018 is still one of the most memorable meals of my eating career and I was able to relive my time in Chiang Mai thru the Gai Yang at Kiln. Thai style grilled chicken (originally of Laos) is grilled over a live fire and served up with some of the hottest sauce I’ve ever been served in a Thai restaurant. Though as hot as that smoked chili relish was I could not stop eating it - super addictive. I can’t see myself returning to London and not coming back to Kiln. I would like to try and eat through the entire menu next time.
Som Tam of Radish and Beetroot
Clay Pot Baked Glass Noodles with Tamworth Belly and Brown Crab Meat
Gai Yang with Smoked Chili Relish at Kiln
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The Laughing Yak
As you might expect London has a nice collection of Nepali and Tibetan restaurants too. I love me some momo (Tibetan and Nepali dumplings) but set out to try something different. I had a few spots on my map and exactly what I got would eat at those spots depended on which one of them I ended up at. I almost always add a restaurant to my hit list based on a single dish I want to try (that’s often how I find spots - by searching out specific dishes). I may try other things too but there’s always a dish that brings me in. I ended up at the Laughing Yak in the heart of Dalston which I had mapped for the Thukpa - a Tibetan noodle soup also popular in Nepal, Bhutan, and parts of India. It's known for its hearty mix of vegetable broth and toothsome noodles. The Laughing Yak is a modern Nepalese restaurant ran by a group of younger Nepalese chefs and Thukpa is one of their signature dishes. They also have a tasting menu with cocktails included but I really wanted some warm noodle soup on a cool and crisp spring evening and they delivered in a big way. The Thukpa at Laughing Yak gets the chefs treatment but not in a way where they try to redesign the whole thing into a different dish completely. As far as I could tell this was a traditional prep where everything was made from scratch. The thick tomato based broth was full of flavor from a hefty hand of fresh spices that left me wishing there was more. The noodles had that nice chew achieved when making them fresh so they also stood out. The final touch was a piece of crispy chopped Nepali fried chicken. This hit the spot!
Thukpa at The Laughing Yak
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Bageriet
Bageriet is Swedish for "the Bakery" and it's also the name of a popular Swedish Bakery in Covent Garden. Londoners flock to this quaint bakery for all sorts of different Swedish pastries with hard to pronounce names. Options were pretty overwhelming despite it being so small. I ended up with a Swedish cinnamon roll (kanelbullar) and then I asked the friendly expat what his favorite pastry was and ended up with a luscious apple bun made of sweet yeasted cardamom dough with a cinnamon spiced apple filling. One day I'd like to further explore Swedish pastries in their natural habitat.
Swedish Pastries at Bageriet
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The Smoking Goat
Following our wonderful meal at Kiln the day before we decided it would be in our best interest to check out its sister spot - The Smoking Goat in Shoreditch. This is Chef Ben Chapman and the Super 8 Restaurant Group’s ode to Bangkok’s late night eating and drinking canteens. Smoking Goat is much larger than Kiln with a high energy pub feel going for it. There’s a cool open air kitchen setup with all sorts of cooking equipment imported from Thailand and the menu features a bunch of stuff that goes well with booze including what some say are the best chicken wings in London. We opted for a couple of our waitresses favorite items in the Tom Yum soup and Pad Phet Chalk Stream Trout and Citron. The former is made with freshly made pollack fishballs and noodles and it was so spicy but in a seriously good way. The fish balls were the first of their kind that I actually liked. Usually they’re super compact and clearly made in a factory somewhere but these were light and fluffy and really flavorful. We would’ve ordered another bowl if we didn’t have plans for a second lunch. Pad Phet is a fiery stir fried dish that can be made with a variety of proteins. Smoking Goat utilizes local stream trout cooked up with a bunch of citrus plus crisp wok fried vegetables in a fiery sauce alongside a bowl of fluffy jasmine rice. The amount of flavor they pack into the food is impressive.
Pad Phet Chalk Stream Trout and Citron Tom Yum Pollack with Mama's Noodles at The Smoking Goat
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Namak Mandi
The Chapli Kebab at Namak Mandi was one of the highlights of my first trip to London. I commonly found myself daydreaming about it when back in Chicago. So I had to get my fix while I was back in London. Namak Mandi is a popular Pashtun restaurant in Tooting. They specialize in a mix of Pakistani and Afghani food like you would find in the Northwest region of Pakistan. The first time I came here it was later in the night and the place was mobbed. This time I visited right around their opening for a late lunch and it was pretty dead. I don't like to overorder when it comes to food on a trip as I often don't have a fridge and don't want to be eating leftovers when there's other things to try. That's why I only got the chapli kebab and some naan last time but it was so good I wanted to try one of the Karahi dishes this time as they looked so good on my last visit. I ended up with enough food for at least three people as I couldn't pass on the chance to try the Seekh Kebab Karahi which consists of juicy charcoal grilled Seekh kebabs in a flavorful Karahi curry. Karahi is named after the pan in which protein plus tomato and spices are cooked - similar to a wok. Namak Mandi cooks their Karahi over coal and it's delivered to your table in the same bubbling hot dish it's cooked with. My mouth was salivating upon first glance of the cut up kebabs sitting in a pungent puddle of sweet and spicy curry and it tasted as good as it looked and smelled. I had to add some Afghani Pulao to the mix so I had something to sop up all that fragrant sauce. The Chapli kebab wasn't quite as good as it was the first time and I think that had something to do with the fact they just opened so I would try to go here later in the day even if you have to wait. Just make sure to bring some cash as cards aren't accepted.
Lunch at Namak Mandi
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Trishna
Trishna was in our plans on our last visit to London but they fell through and we never made it to the one star Michelin restaurant in Marylebone Village. It's ran by the same people behind two star Gymkhana and also Brigadiers which we visited upon arrival as seen above. The menu showcases dishes from India's southwest coast with an emphasis on seafood and coconut. They offer a tasting menu but we didn't come with empty stomachs having eaten all day leading up to our visit. Actually we were there specifically for their signature dish which is a colorful curry made with Dorset Brown Crab which is commonly caught in the waters around Dorset, a county in southwest England. We both agreed that and some garlic naan would make for the perfect last dinner of the trip. We started with a fantastic basket of poppadum and chutneys that I could not stop eating despite the fact the main course had yet to come out and I was already feeling a little full. Then the smell upon the arrival of the curry and the naan gave me a second wind completely as it damn near knocked my socks off. The menu lists coconut oil, pepper, garlic, and curry leaf along with the crab as the ingredients for this dish but I would bet the recipe goes a bit deeper than just that. This was one of those dishes that will go down among my favorites of all time. It was rich, it was creamy, it was complex. It was incredible!
Dinner at Trishna
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Xi'an BiangBiang Noodles
After dinner at Trisha and all the eating the entire week leading up to it I was fuller than a cart on the tube during peak hours. Though I managed to walk most of it off and came across this Biang Biang noodle specialist in doing so. Xi’an BiangBiang Noodles has a few locations including this one in Covent Garden. I love me some Biang Biang Noodles which are a hand pulled noodle variety native to China’s Shaanxi province. It seems to be quite a popular dish in Europe but we don’t have a ton of options for it in Chicago so I decided to try the version from here and it was pretty good. Not as good as the ones at Master Wei Xi'An (also in London but it was closed at this hour) but it still hit the spot.
Biang Biang Noodles at Xi'an BiangBiang Noodles
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Fallow
I spent my final hours in London wandering around before we had to head off to the airport to catch our flight home. I try to expel as much energy before a long flight so that I can sleep thru most of it. I ended up in St. James’s which is a busy area near Buckingham Palace. I happened to pass Fallow which was open for breakfast and on my hit list so I decided to have one last bite and skip the nasty food on the flight. Fallow is a modern British restaurant ran by two chefs that have taken full advantage of the social media era. Chef-Directors Jack Croft and Will Murray began to post cooking content from their kitchen during the pandemic and became well known in doing so, resulting in fans across the world. Roasted Cod head slathered in an orange and Sriracha butter is considered one of the restaurants signature dishes giving you an idea of the type of food they’re doing here - locally sourced nose to tail cooking is a big part of Fallows identity. As are the breakfast sandwiches aka “Fallow croissant royales”. They're are made with Fallow’s signature croissant pucks and you can watch the process in which they're made
HERE. They’re weighted down when baking making for a super crisp bun made up of croissant dough. The fillings in these consist of indulgent combinations like the “Royale with Cheese” which features a house sausage patty, cheese, English bacon, and a fried egg with walnut ketchup. This was up there among the best breakfast sandwiches I’ve had but it was also at the top as far as the most expensive coming in at around $25 U.S. dollars. A real treat.
The "Royale with Cheese" at Fallow
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Bonus Trip!
Because this was our second trip to London in a short period of time we thought maybe we should visit someplace new - outside of London. My wife ended up wanting to do a night in the Cotswolds which is England's largest Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) consisting of more than 800 square miles of rolling hills and unspoiled countryside, dotted with delightful villages. She figured out a way we could see the area without a car though we used an uber a few times to get around from spot to spot. She ended up choosing the lovely little town of Stow-on-the-Wald where we stayed at the Old Stocks Inn for one night. It was a easy train ride from London proceeded by a quick bus into town where we checked in and immediately started exploring - by going next door for food and drinks.
Pics from the Cotswolds
Stow-on-the-Wold was cute as a button and the right call as far as where to stay. It was my favorite of the three or four towns we visited in that they were all small and quaint but there was a bit more to explore there. The Cotswolds isn't cheap but it is extremely charming. I ate enough British food to last a lifetime during our one night stay, ok so maybe not a lifetime but it was enough for this trip. Truth is you don’t go to Cotswolds to eat but to soak in the super chill vibes in some super cute towns. That said you still have to eat something so here’s a little rundown of where and what we ate...
English Breakfast at Old Stocks Inn - I actually think the English breakfast is superior to any 2 + 2 + 2 American breakfast plate thanks to more variety. Better ingredients out here means better tasting too.
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Muntjac and Red Wine Pie at The Bull in Charlbury - We had high hopes for this newish Gastro pub ran by the people behind The Pelican in London’s Notting Hill which we enjoyed a visit too. The setup is great but the food left a bit to be desired. It just wasn’t that flavorful due to a lack of seasoning. Savory pies are always pretty good but this one was just ok. So was the fish, the mushrooms, and the asparagus we ordered. The best part was drinks by the fire pit following dinner in the courtyard.
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Fish and Chips at The Stag at Stow - I like a good piece of fish and chips as much as the next guy but I wasn’t about to waste a meal on them in London when I was headed out to the Countryside where the dining options are a bit less eclectic. Nonetheless they never get as crisp and fresh as this back home so this hit the spot. But I don't think I'll ever quite understand the appeal of mushy peas.
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Cornish Scallops with Anchovy Butter at The Old Butchers - These small ‘black’ shelled scallops are a sustainable Cornish delicacy and said by some to taste way sweeter than their American counterparts. We also got fish and chips here but I slightly preferred the serving pictured upthread.
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Bacon, Avocado, and Tomato Chutney Baguette at Cotswold Baguettes - I loved this little sandwich shop in the heart of Stow on the Wald. They bake excellent bread and stuff it with high quality fillings.
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That's it for this trip!
Click HERE for my always expanding google map of food options in London
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