Eating BIG in Greenville

Eating like a local:
Regional food specialties 
- Exploring the hub of South Carolina's Upcountry 

While I realize Greenville South Carolina is a spot most people will never find themselves you never know exactly what the future holds. We stopped there on the drive down to South Florida last January but it wasn't at random. I decided to make it the halfway point (give or take) and spend a couple nights checking out the hub of South Carolina's Upcountry region. I'd been hearing that Greenville was on the come up and decided why not stop there and check it out as it made sense from both a geographical standpoint and also getting to go somewhere I've never been. Plus I've always been intrigued with the local chili dog culture as there's lots of hot dog stands in the area. Also it was just for one full day as we would arrive in the early eve and hit the road early upon leaving. At the very least I figured there would be restaurants to check out and some areas to walk around and see the town. 

Pics from Greenville
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Duke Sandwich Company 

Greenville's biggest culinary claim to fame is being the birthplace of Duke's Mayonnaise. It's a long story that starts in the early 1900's with a local woman named Eugenia Duke who started selling sandwiches with her mother and her homemade spreads during the first World War. The all female operation served soldiers stationed at the nearby Camp Sevier and then when the war was over they began supplying sandwiches to local stores and textile mills. In the mid 1920's Duke sold her sandwich spread recipes and her mayo recipe to two separate men. C.F Sauer went on to open a Duke's Mayonnaise factory in the area while her former bookkeeper went on to establish a wholesale market for the sandwiches along with the opening of a few stores where they were sold. Today there's zero connection between the sandwich shop and the mayo - in fact back in 2019 there was a lawsuit filed by a private equity firm that had recently bought the Duke's Mayonnaise brand. They claimed the sandwich shop was trying to profit off of their name. That's nonsense as the sandwiches and the shops it spawned have been a part of the Greenville area dating back to the first World War. I'm not sure what happened with the lawsuit but Duke Sandwich Company is still slanging old school sandwiches stuffed with spreads like pimento cheese, egg salad, and their famous baked ham with pepper and onion as shown below. They come toasted upon request and cost around $2-$3 each. 

Sandwiches from Duke Sandwich Company 
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Northgate Soda Shop

Our next stop also has alot of history in the area. The Greenville News describes it as a "living museum of Greenville history." It's one of those places that looks kind of dirty from the outside but in a good worn down way. Little has changed at this locals spot I've had on my radar going back to the days of Roadfood. It was featured for it's pimento cheeseburger and the Cincinnati steak - the latter of which is a fried baloney sandwich with chili sauce. As much as I would've liked to try a Cincy steak sandwich (nobody knows why they call them that) I couldn't pass on a classic pimento cheeseburger paired with a cherry smash from the soda fountain. I'm not sure why but they love cooking their burgers to well done in these parts but the creamy made on site pimento cheese really lifted it all up. 

Pimento Cheeseburger at Northgate Soda Shop 
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Holmes Hot Dogs (Arcadia)

Holmes Hot Dogs was the first stop on the 'Upcountry Chili Dog Trot'. It's about 30 minutes from Greenville on the outskirts of Spartanburg. It's been a hot dog stand since 1953 when Walt Holmes purchased a popular lunch counter and added hot dogs to the menu. Ever since then locals have been flocking to Holmes for chili dogs with crinkle cut fries and ice cold bottles of coke. They give you the option to add slaw so I tried one with chili and one with chili and slaw. Overall this was probably my favorite stop of the chili dog trot. I enjoyed both the atmosphere and the hot dogs were pretty good for what they were. I think they were like $2 each and despite being skinless they had a little bit of snap to them. The size of the hot dogs are much smaller down here too which is why they’re often just a couple bucks. The buns are heavily steamed which means they’re kind of like hot dog sliders.

Hot Dogs at Holmes Hot Dogs
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The Hot Dog Cafe (Lyman)

Hot Dog Cafe is about halfway between Greenville and Spartanburg. There's not much online info aside from an entry on the old Roadfood website. They make a thick and meaty chili that reminded me a bit of Flint style coney sauce due to how dry it was, like loose meat. Once again the wieners themselves are nothing special but when you add chili, mustard and onions they kind of become their own thing. The star of the show here though are the fries cut fresh with an antique potato slicer. 

Chili Dog at Hot Dog Cafe
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Red Hill Hot Dogs (Lyman)

You'll find Red Hill Hot Dogs a half mile from our last stop. This place looks like a house if not for the sign hanging above one of the front windows. Inside feels like a prohibition bar except they're pushing cheap hot dogs as opposed to watered down Canadian booze. According to their website they've been around for more than 30 years but it feels much longer than that. The chili at Red Hill Hot Dogs a bit wetter than the previous two stops likely due to some sort of tomato sauce being used. 

Chili Dog at Red Hill Hot Dogs
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Skins Hot Dogs (multiple locations) 

Last stop on the chili dog trot takes to us to a hyper regional fast food chain known as Skins. They got into the game back in 1946 when Skin's Thrashers opened in the small town of Anderson. I really wanted to go to the original location with a pool hall like atmosphere where they also serve beer (limit two) but Anderson was the opposite way of the previous four spots. But with Skin's having more than 10 locations in the region I was able to stop in at one of their Greenville outlets for a chili dog. Skinless beef/pork franks are topped with mustard and onions and slathered in a dry chili. The steamed buns from here have a little more girth to them, almost like a lobster roll bun. If I hadn't just been to the previous three spots I might've tried the hot dog in a cup along with the one in a bun. 

Chili Dog at Skins
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The Jones Oyster Company 

Greenville is about 3 hours from Charleston and the South Carolina coast which isn't exactly close but it's also not too far. My point being I shouldn't have been as surprised with Jones Oyster Company as I was as you can get fresh seafood from the Low Country delivered up here in no time. Same goes for fresh oysters from up and down the coast. Between the fresh seafood and the wonderful job they did rehabbing the old building that housed a furniture store for which the restaurant is named after, Jones Oyster Co. felt like a spot you would come across in Charleston or Savannah. We had cold and briny oysters from a family ran farm in Virginia and also hot and cheesy grilled oysters from the Gulf Coast and a stick to your ribs plate of Low Country Crab Rice with a fried egg and bits of crisp bacon. 

Seafood at Jones Oyster Co. 
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Sum Bar 

Greeenville got a good one when a local chef known for her Chinese dumplings went from pop up to brick and mortar. Sum Bar is the project of Khailing Neoh who made a name for herself and her handmade shumai on the pop-up circuit. This isn't an old school spot with the carts and the menu that you circle what you want. It's new school in that there's a smaller menu with cocktail options and some untraditional dishes like the crab rangoon which are served up as nachos with wonton chips and a warm mix of cream cheese and green onions for dipping. But the shumai with pork and shrimp is very traditional as it's her grandmas recipe and it was as satisfying as any I can remember. An order of the green beans, also grandmas recipe, rounded out a fantastic pre-dinner snack.  

Dim Sum at Sum Bar 
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Scoundrel 

I always like to read those 'Best New Restaurant' lists by local and national food publications. That's how I found Scoundrel which was named in one by Omar Mamoon and his team at Esquire. The kitchen at Scoundrel is led by Greenville native Joe Cash who had cooked at a few of the country's best restaurants before returning home and starting his own. Cash and his team cook French fare with local flair like a deviled blue crab infused with chilis, bay leaf and sweet cream - you'll be reading about it again at years end if you catch what I'm saying. A simply prepared bowl of pasta made with Reginetti, Parmesan and Aleppo pepper showed great restraint by the chef as it didn't need any truffles or bacon as it was delicious as is. A well cooked piece of duck breast has become a favorite of mine lately and with that it was easy to decide what we would try from the entrees. Aged Pekin Duck is mixed with grilled swiss chard, big cherries, and mustard. Having just come from the previous spot we only got a few things from here but they were all delicious with the deviled crab being memorable.

Dinner at Scoundrel (click pics to enhance)
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Clare's Creamery 

I'm a bit of a ice cream snob in that I mostly only eat the small batch stuff. But it helps me stay away from getting it at the grocery store and eating it all in one sitting or just getting some bc I'm paying for gas and there's a cooler of ice cream bars next to the checkout. But I do like to check out the independent spots so I searched around and found Clare's. There's nothing special about it per se in that it has that clean and light aesthetic that most of the new ice cream shops have going for them but it also has some out of the ordinary flavors that switch with the seasons. Good stuff.  

Ice Cream at Clare's Creamery 
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Previous stops to and from South Florida 

(click links)

Roadfood in Chattanooga
Eating BIG in Alabama 

See ya next time @chibbqking